rsicard

Whos Tuner stuff was the Dyno guy using?

Need to express what you expect the Datsun to be when done with it.

This is really COOL. In order to duplicate this conversion, please provide a brief summary of parts needed to accomplish this. Does DDS supply the inner and outer CVs on the half shafts and what does one specify to DDS in order to get another set of half shaft same as yours? What shocks are used for the struts? Are those 280ZX 4 lug internally splined hubs to mount the rotors and wheels? Already purchased a MK VIII 8.8" differential and rear cover the same as you have. Would be nice to know the remainder of parts that need to be purchased to accomplish this BEEFY conversion. Thanks much.

Using High Temperature Synthetic grease is the type to use. The rear stub axle bearings ACTUALLY turn at a lower RPM. The High Temp grease SHOULD NOT run under heated conditions. I used the original Datsun installed Factory grease and am not afraid to use it BECAUSE of the low RPM and how THICK the grease was.

Buying a high performance sports car is NOT a challenge. Modifying an existing weakling into a strong (or top) runner is a REAL CHALLENGE!

I have built up a 383 cu in (6.3 Liter) SBC. Started at a base line spec of 500 HP and 500 Ft Lbs of Torque as shown on Air Flow Research Web site for AFR-195 cylinder heads on a 383 stroker. They use a 750 CFM carb and hydraulic roller camshaft. I have a 1215 CFM throttle body for Electronic Fuel Injection and Solid Roller Camshaft both of which exceed the AFR listed engine specs. The throttle body is 2% less than that on the LS2, yet the displacement is 20+ cu in greater. The solid roller cam in the internally balanced engine will allow it to wind up to 8000 RPM yet that will be well past the camshaft peak HP curve. Used a 2 piece camshaft cover so the the camshaft can be swapped out fairly easily for more aggressive camshaft. The camshaft is driven by gears not chain so valve timing is much more precise. Additionally, the ignition timing and fuel injection timing is equal to the LS2 but FAR more adjustable. Using AFR-195 cylinder heads that flow very good. They have the strong springs along with heavy wall push rods. The valve train is ready to be spun up to 8000 RPM. Racing oil pan with dual kickouts, six trap doors, crank scraper and Big Block High Flow Oil Pump. Custom fabricated exhaust system behind stainless steel block hugger headers which will be covered with insulation. Want to use this 240Z for Road Racing and expect it to out accelerate just about anything on the road including a Hennessy prepped Dodge Viper that has already set records. T56 behind the engine, aluminum flywheel, small damper, 300ZX turbo R200 CLSD, CV half shafts, MM Beefy stub axles, Koni racing shocks, shortened struts with adjustable coil over springs all four corners. Roll cage, racing seats, certified fuel cell yet to go. At present rewiring the cabin and engine compartment. Also lowering the nose and adding Air Dam along with NASCAR type splitter and rear wing to get downforce at speed. All new instruments in panel, dual AFR gauges one for each bank. Bidding on data acquisition system and then will purchase and install 8 each EGT probes connected to data acquisition system to fine tune the ignition and EFI. Then fine tune the spark and injection timing on each cylinder.

EZ wiring technical support really sucks. They must be afraid they are going to be sued. They will advise verbally, but will not pass along expanded documentation. Again, the installation manual leaves a lot to be desired. The wire marking could be a lot better. They should use SILVER and more bold marking of the wires. Had to reverse engineer the fuse panel to figure out the bussing of the fuses. Which ones are directly on the battery buss and those that are on the key on buss. Then there is one that is on neither buss. Went to Radio Shack to get Molex connectors. Would like to drop in the EZ wiring harness with Molex connector and just plug them in and be done with it.

EZ wiring calls them parking lights. They are really RUNNING lights. I am also installing EZ wiring harness. Very hard to read the markings on the wires. The installation manual leaves something to be desired. Was going to modify the original 240Z wiring. Discovered that Datsun put the fuses downstream from the controls and upstream of the electrical loads such as lights. Completely engineered out the weaknesses in the original Datsun electrical system design when it was discovered the fuses were placed improperly in the electrical design. Decided to go to EZ wiring 20 circuit Mini Fuse panel with harness. Eliminating RH steering stalk for Headlights, Wipers and Washer. Used Painless Wiring Headlight and wiper switches. Still tying up the loose ends before installing the EZ wiring harness. Built relay panel to switch the heavy current loads such as headlights and fans.

Besides a cam springs, retainers, push rods, tune the most significant items are the cylinder heads, induction systems, exhaust system and where in the RPM power band most of the power is developed. NASCAR operates their race engines with a floor of 4000 RPM all the way up to 9000 RPM. That is the largest "Area Under the Curve". All WEAK engine components are done away with. Still valve springs are the biggest failure offender. The higher up the RPM range an engine is operated, the more expensive the engine components are that SURVIVE. RIPS winds the engine up to high RPM in his Z-car. That is where he is making his winning power.

Really depends on your budget and wishes. Recommend the following as a beginning: First scoop up Ebay item number 251234103118, VERY SOON, which is a R200 Mustache bar and is necessary to mount a R200 diff! Then purchase a R200 Ebay item number 221193350183 R200 differential VERY SOON! Then look for a Chev Camaro T5 transmission and then a '96 to '99 GM Vortec 5.7 liter (350 cu in) complete. I first modified the suspension struts to accomodate much better shocks and adjustable coil over springs. Then purchased CV half shaft for a Nissan 300ZX turbo. Then installed R200 plus CV half shafts along with 280Z driveshaft to mate with original trans and engine. Absorb this and ask for more.

Did not say anything about a TRACK car. Just pointing out the assets of the LT-1/LT-4 technology with FAST burn cylinder heads. After market heads being even BETTER. Don't let bad drivers discourage you from doing something unique. Driving style is a mental challenge. It can be done wrong or right. Approach driving a performance vehicle from a conservative standpoint. Build into it to gain experience in how the vehicle handles. Then it can be found where the boundary limits are.

Very few people know the potential of the LT-1 and LT-4 engines stroked to 383 or 396 cu in. Properly prepared, they will outrun the LSx series of engines and ANYTHING that Ford has in that compact physical size. Overhead cam engines just have more moving parts to break or wear out. Cannot emphasize enough PROPERLY PREPARED. The better the components used in the build up, the more power output!

Again, depends on what you want to do with the car and modified LT-1! With a properly prepared 396 LT-1, few NA V8 engines in the same physical size can achieve that amount of HP and TQ. Optispark timing is second to none. LT-1 uses reverse flow cooling system wherein the cylinder heads are cooled FIRST then coolant flows to the block keeping detonation under control with 10.0+ static compression. At WOT, the tires will be burnt off in 1st and 2nd gear of a T56 transmission. Use partial throttle and should be VERY streetable. Once underway in second gear, acceleration with WOT will be AWESOME! Same with 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th gears. Think about using rear gears less than 3.7:1. Mileage with properly tuned LT-1 EFI on the highway with 3.7:1 or less rear gears and 6th gear of transmission should yield 20+ MPG on the highway. I had a 1994 Buick Roadmaster (heavy boat, 4000Lbs+) and it got 24 MPG on the highway at 70 MPH. And that was 350 cu in displacement. Zero Zero emissions when checked at emissions station. Wow! And this is NO BS!

A LT-1 bored and stroked to 396 cu in and properly tuned should have little to no drive ability issues in an of itself. Depends on what aspect of drive ability you are concerned about. Depends on what you want to do with the car and modified LT-1. A properly modified LT-1 can be the most powerful and efficient engine using a MSD replacement opti-spark distributor VERY precise ignition and fuel injection timing along with top notch cylinder heads matched with camshaft and induction system. The proper combination will yield exception power and fuel economy results.

Robftw: Which block, GM or aftermarket? Piston manufacturer? Rod manufacturer? Crank manufacturer? Cam manufacturer? Hydraulic or Solid Roller Cam? Rocker Arm Ratio? What block machining? Just curious!

Keith: From the photos from wfritts911, it can be seen the camber settings on both cars. Yours is set up for Road Racing. Very nice.

Consider replacing those greasable U joints with non-greasable U joints. The passages for grease WEAKEN the U joint cross casting. The non-greasable have more strength therefore less likely to break when large amount of torque applied to them.

Keith: I constructed a Brake and Clutch Master cylinder restraint lke yours and it works VERY GOOD! Where did you order the restraint strap for the suspension? Please advise. Thanks.

egzlilgituarboy9: I also have a T56 transmission that needs upgrade. Was it VERY HARD to disassemble and reassemble the T56 and install the Stage 2 kit of parts? Did you have to replace the bearings or need shims in the rebuild? Did you have instructions for disassembly and reassembly of the T56? Please advise as I would like to do the same. I have completely rebuilt my 383 stroker SBC. Now the T56 needs to have the weak spots taken out. It is the -016 with .50 overdrive 6th gear from a Camaro or pontiac. Please advise. Thanks.

Also very much interested and would like the low profile option. If product quality is very good, quantity of sales will follow. Must also be of the most robust design and reasonably priced.

Keith: Love your photos and yes they could be larger. Ingenious idea for the clutch master cylinder restraint. I will use that idea on mine and also for the brake master cylinder as I changed mine without a power booster (manual brakes). There will be more pedal pressure put on the brakes as they are manual. These are the type ideas that really count!

RebekahsZ: Very much interested in the droop limiters both front and rear. I need to do the same to my 240Z to eliminate the float of the springs when the struts are drooped. Please post more photos of the completed installation both front and rear of the upper and lower limiter brackets and the source of the limiter cables. I purchased an Aviation Nico-press crimper especially to fabricate the limiter cables. Thanks much for showing your work.

SUNNY Z: I understand well the lack of motivation when it is that COLD. I came from Minnesota and know all about it. I really appreciate your pictures of the uprights getting beefed up. I am going to do the same! I will follow your Ford 8.8 IRS project as I will want to do the very same to my 1971 240Z.

SUNNY Z: I have been closely following your build threads. Would be great to have some kind of dimensions on where to make the round holes in the uprights. It looks that the Ford IRS diff is biased to the right hand side of the vehicle. On another subject of this conversion, which outter CV joints to you plan to use that will withstand the torque supplied by the Ford IRS diff? Any info on these two items will be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks. Please advise.

After abondoning the Sanderson CC178 headers, ordered Stainless Steel block hugger headers from KMJ(ent.com) on Ebay. WOW, these are much better quality than the sanderson headers. Amazing quality! Reconfigured the down pipes from the stainless steel headers. Highly recommend these headers. These headers and down pipes will be wrapped to contain the heat.