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About SHADY280

  • Birthday 11/27/1982

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    mission, b.c. canada

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  1. I have all new bushings in mine and the Mercedes old school spring swap. I shook so bad one day with my open diff it threw off number 6 spark plug wire! It felt like I really broke something.
  2. Check the cam tower shim thickness. Will give you a slight indication of how much was shaved off the head. That and look at a picture of a stock n47 stamp and look at yours. Kind of a visual cue to see if it's got a ton taken off to get that low cc. If your going to pull the head maybe take advantage of the situation and grab a different casting number head like a p series and shave it down .080" and do some intake runner work. Put the longer valves from the n47 into it and grab some shims from Derek.
  3. From what I have experienced the n47 head is a junker head with horrible chamber design. I had horrible detonation with mine and I swapped out to a shaved down p79 and the detonation went away and I was able to up the timing quite a bit. With your current compression and large cam mixed with a poor chambered head your not getting any potential out of your parts. With that head the 40's are fine. Get a better head and bigger carbs and you will be happy.
  4. Hahahaha that must be translated from Chinese. The instructions are correct if you get around the poor wording, and all coilover kits will/ should have the same install. The nice part with that kit is it comes with the sleeves to weld onto the stock parts. Sometimes you take the s13 sleeve with the spindle mount and cut and grind said mount off, then clean off the paint before you weld.
  5. Rip John you were a stand up guy and you are gone far too soon.
  6. I've re used mine about 4 times now. No troubles at all. Mine is the Nissan unit and I have a 1mm and 2mm for when I was trying different head combos.
  7. There was a group buy a while ago for them. Do some searching and maybe someone has one laying around
  8. Perfect!! I fought with a leaky speedo unit for years.
  9. eBay has replacement ones for about $10 that includes the outter seal too. You may be able to source them from the dealer. To get the seal out its pretty simple. Drive the roll pin out and remove the shaft, remove the felt dust seal (if it's still there) then use a dental pick to dig the old one out. It's a strange size my local parts store didn't have.
  10. I also am looking into a g series in the x model. Interesting to hear all the reviews on here. Some of the 04/05 models here range from 5k to 12k. It's kinda odd like that and considering a 37 starts at 12k and goes up to 18k might make the 37 worth the extra. My current daily is a 95 Altima with 370,000 km on it and I think it will last past 500 but I wouldn't mind the upgrade! I know to get better economy and power out of the motor many people recommend the plenum spacer. I wonder what the real world mileage is like. My wife's 06 murano isn't so hot and only likes 91 octane.
  11. How about a set of lighter 8mm rods?? Less rotating mass and can be just as strong with arp bolts. $150 shipped.
  12. Hud I'm local to you as well. I run one of Jeff's cams in my car. There is a local guy named zoltan. Look for him out here in the valley. He is a wizard with heads and flow as well as sourcing valve parts
  13. I found using an adapter and a USB cable and 9 pin serial cable was a terrible combo. I removed the USB cable and it solved my problem completely.
  14. I'm from bc in the lower mainland as well (mission). They don't meet very often if at all anymore. I used to host cruises out in the mountains here but haven't in a while.
  15. http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=60640 Here are some instructions to a more scientific approach. Seems legit. I know I have to do the same on mine
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