Bob_H

I'm not so sure 6 cylinder forum is a good name. It should still be alternate 6 cylinder, which can be interpreted to mean "an alternate form of the stock 6 cylinder." And I would strongly suggest to Derek or others in charge at zcar.com to change his forum software. He has always been responsive to peoples input and that is a long overdue change for zcar.com. It is one of the primary reasons people aren't staying over there and I think Derek should be made aware of it if he isn't already. In my opinion, zdriver has not really been a player, largely for a few reasons, this forum and zcar.com exists and as you said, their choice of colors makes it very hard to read and cruise the forums. I can't for the life of me understand why people choose those colors,(remember the forum change here and the default colors before it was changed?). -Bob

James, It was covered fairly well in the announcements section and in the alternate 6 cylinder section under the RB forum gone thread. The L6 isn't really a swap, as hybridz was originally set up to discuss. However, the L6 topics most certainly fit in the various technical sections. Info such as your P-90 mods fit in the 6 cylinder swaps as you are discussing a turbo conversion to a 240z, i.e. a 6 cylinder swap. I understand where they are coming from, and the main goal is to eliminate the simple questions that can be answered by zcar.com, 240z.org, and zdriver.com and keep the higher level technical discussions here. With a L6 forum, it is fair game for a newbie to ask simple L6 issues, which really are a better fit for the other sites and have effectively diluted some of the info available here. I for one would like to see this site stay as a higher level discussion arena. Just my take. -Bob

The Datsun engine section is gone for good reason. Most of the technical discussions were just that, - technical. As such, they will fit well in some of the other catagories pertinent to the posted subject and hopefully make better forums. The interesting thing is since I penned the sticky in the RB forum, there was little if any "extraneous" posts.... Maybe they are reading the stickies... -Bob

isaac, Let me be the bad guy here. I have watched you post several topics as of late, and nearly every one has been well covered in the past. I point you to rule number 2 in the sticky post at the top of this and many other forums: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24343 To quote it: I realize you may think I'm comming off as an ass, and so be it. However, three of your last few topics were well covered before. I promise with some searching you can find the two or three retailers that sell brake kits for early Z's. I'll even be nice,(not like me at all), and tell you who they are: Ross Corrigan of Modern Motorsports Mike Gibson of fonebooth Arizona Z car And the new one, JSK innovations,(kits, not complete). All offer different and sometimes overlapping products. My personal opinion is Modern Motorsports and Arizona Z cars are the best kits available for the money, in that order. Bottom line, you have asked us to do all the work for you. Please show some initative and search out and find your answers. It will help you learn more as the old topics have a wealth of information for you to consider and you may use them later for reference. If you still fail to find the answers, then please post saying what you searched for, and what you want. That helps us answer your questions and lets us know you don't just want to be spoon-fed the answers. Ok, done ranting - but it has been an epidemic of sorts as of late and you are not the first. -Bob

I can't for the life of me think of why you would put a LT1 airfoil in the intake? There is no need to split the airflow or smooth it into two passages as in the LT1. All I can think of is you had it lying around and figured it would aid in the airflow as it does for the LT1. In my opinion, all it is doing is taking up space that air could flow through, i.e. limiting your potential gains, not helping them. I would suggest removing it, taking some tubing,(even dryer tubing), and running it forward through the radiator support to the fresh air in front of it. -Bob

I ran that exact cam,(actually it was 270/280 duration, the Motorsport Auto 2003 cam) for four years on a P-90A with no problems. I did exactly what you are asking, the earlier externally oiled cam towers with the spray bar and an internally oiled cam. Check out my page: http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/p-90.html It addresses all your questions toward the bottom, including why people have issues. BTW that page was written in 1998. -Bob

Even for twice the price of what I said earlier in this post, I would get it. But the key is a good kit, that fits what you said,(looks good, mounts well, etc..), But for me personally, it must have some kind of air dam. I like the original, but it is an aero treatment/issue for me, so some kind of air dam must be integrated or readily adaptable from another maker,(such as zenon or similar). If you make one with an air dam, I'm in. -Bob

-------Please, do not respond to this post--------- Attention! This forum, (formerly the RB swap forum) has attracted the most attention for newbies and as such, too many people are being lazy. If you want to do a RB swap, read the last few rules especially. We all want to encourage swaps, but be aware of these few items. There are a few guidelines to follow. If you don't follow them, you will hopefully be warned once, then the post will be deleted,(remember, you can delete your own posts). If you make a big deal of it, you'll be deleted as well,(not likely, but if you push the admins far, it has happened..). We want to help you, but most of us do have day jobs, and answering the same exact basic question over and over again gets old really fast. 1) Don't be lazy! This is the primary tenent of this forum. Nearly every type of question you could possibly have about any RB swap,(or other common 6 cylinder swap) has been asked not only 3 times, but answered many many times. We assume you are not lazy, so please don't prove us wrong! We do not want answer your every whim because you are too lazy to follow rule number 2: 2) Do a Search! As I said above, more than likely, your question has been asked. Do a search. If you are unsuccessful, try different search terms,(this is key!). This site is equipped with a great search function that allows you to browse past discussions. Not only might you find the answer to your questions, but a great archive of accumulated information you may wish to browse at a later date If still unsuccessful, then, and only then, post. And when you post, it should be something like this: "Hey, I searched this forum for info about XXXX. I found info on YYY, but I want to know about XXXX." This tells us several things. First, what you want to know. Second, that you did a search, and what you searched for. Last, it shows you aren't lazy. 3)Use proper English! We are not interested in your mAd sKiLlz yo! Ghetto-tabulous language, street slang, and ebonics are not welcome here. "sup, dog?" is not a good start to any post. Nor are the words "dope, mad, tight, hella, or da'bomb" unless they are used in the context that our friend, the dictionary, places them in. A well written, coherent post that you spell checked will garner many more responses than a poorly written and worded question. To expand on the spell check issue: With respect to spell check, this means cutting and pasting on your computer to check it with your own programs. It is more directed at those who have terrible spelling and grammar skills and take no effort to compose a coherent, readable post. A small spelling or grammar error is a minor detail that doesn't detract from the post and was not the point of this guideline. But every other word spelled incorrectly with 2nd grade grammar makes it hard to read. 4) List your intended purpose for the car It makes a huge difference if you want to set your car up for daily driving, drag racing, or road racing. It will make a big difference in how we may respond. Without this info from you, you likely won't get a good answer - if you get an answer at all.... Most importantly, be clear and objective. State the specifics of your situation, as each situation demands a different answer. List your modifications, your intended purpose for the car, and specifically what characteristics you would like to change. The more information you can give us, the better answer you will receive 5)Have a thick skin! This is important. Since our patience has been tried as of late with newbies coming in wanting all info spoon fed to them,(instead of searching) we tend to be a bit short in our responses. If we bite your head off, smile, search, then post - in that order. We do want to help you, but a good reality check is a good thing. 6) Realize the RB swap is not a cheap swap and it costs much more than the price of the motor! "Hey, I can get a RB25 front clip for $3500, can I do the swap?". Not if you only budgeted $4-5k. To give you an idea, those of us who have successfully done the RB swap have spent at least $10k on the conversion. Those of us with RB26dett swaps have closer to $20k in the conversion alone. Just because the engine costs $5k doesn't meant that is the only cost involved. Do a search of the older posts to see what I mean. You have radiators, intercoolers, brakes, custom driveshaft, custom mounts, upgraded fuel lines/tanks, etc... The list is large. Last and most important! Read the post above this one. It outlines some of the more important recent issues here at hybridz. The RB forum in particular attracts the most new attention. We want to help you with your swap, but answering basic questions 40 times when they are well covered only dilutes the good information available in this forum. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24172 -------Please, do not respond to this post---------

spend more time searching. It is all well covered in this forum - everything you are asking. The tolerance right now is very, very low for those not using a search esp. for topics well covered. I'll give you a hint, what applies to a RB26 applies to a RB25, i.e. same mounting points, etc.. Think, we use the RB25 transmission in the RB25 swap..... I may seem like an ass, but people have been banned for less recently. I promise you, its in here. -Bob

Mike, You and others in this thread have already answered that question. Since I have one of the more visited L6 sites besides Bryan Little I think I can answer that to an extent. I am not willing to deal with the B.S. and wade through all the idiots. I get several e-mails a week, ranging from: "Hey, I have an 83zx and the air conditioning isn't working, what do you think is the problem?" (yes, that was all the info in the e-mail), to "I have a 280z and the smog pump isn't working anymore, how can I find a replacement or remove it" - even though I have nothing about smog pumps on my site, much less any significant info on air conditioning. I usuallly point them to one of the forums and don't answer their question. The RB swap is far too hot for me right now. Every "ricer" wants to do it because the GT-R is the cool car right now. Yet I can count on my fingers the number of us with successful RB26 swaps or good ones in progress. You have seen how I respond to those who don't take the time to write a coherent response/question or who posts inaccurate info with little or no facts to back it up. I may someday start a RB swap forum, but it would be moderated like CC.com because it makes the job eaiser on the mods and keeps well, this has been covered well. I don't see a need for another L6 forum because 240z.org and zcar.com can cover 95% of that traffic. For the other 5%, there are good tech and turbo forums here to fill that gap. I agree that the RB and L6 forums should go. To be honest, I was kinda surprised when the RB forum popped up in the last year. It was fine in the Alternate 6 cylinder forum. As it has been said, the cc.com style of moderation works, but is not for everyone and I'd bet 80% of the regulars here would be highly offended and would not like it. As such maybe some aspects of it can be adopted, but others not used at all. -Bob

Jason, Not to beat a dead horse, but you really need to do some searching before asking more questions. As of late, there have been a deluge of newbies asking simple questions that have been well covered in the past. I point you to this post: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24172 As it was said before, everything you have asked is covered more than once in this forum alone. Good luck searching. -Bob

While CC.com is my favorite site, I'm not so sure the folks here are ready for that type of moderation or guidelines. It is harsh, at times unfair, and completely one-sided to the owners of the site. That being said, it serves an excellent purpose and helps keep the riff-raff out of cc.com and most importantly, keeps the posts tech oriented and the quality high. I have had discussions with some moderators about just this,(in a slightly different context) and it was rejected it as not inline with hybridz.org. However, at the same time they rejected some things I was doing, hybridz as a whole is now doing so maybe it is time to look at a moderation style like that. I personally think it is a great way to run a site you want to keep pure to its purpose, but many will find it very very offensive. I think Aaron has a good breakdown on the "consolidation". As for the moderation issue, I'm all for a CC.com style. It offends some, drives off others, but keeps those who really strive to learn and share knowledge w/o wading through crap, i.e. guesses and mistruths. -Bob

This brings up an interesting discussion. With a potential demise of RB and L series forums, where will that info go? Will they still be archived? I am willing to archive some of the RB info on my site if necessary,(and may anyways). And Jay, I can't count the number of times I have come back with a "Do a search" to some idiot who was too lazy to do a seach of the RB forum and wanted the answers spoon fed to them. It is the "cool" engine to think about right now and is the most finacially out of reach for most. Sometimes I ruffled many feathers in the process, but as Mike and Richard have pointed out, it gets old after a while and eventually it has to be stopped.

It's about stinkin time. I have tried to post and respond saying what is now in the "guidelines post" only to be rebuffed. I knew it was a matter of time before the moderators got annoyed enough to take similar action. My approach has never been the nicest, but nice doesn't keep the site where it needs to be. I have said as much to some moderators only to be dismissed. I'm sorry to see it had to get to this point for someone to finally start taking action. Hybridz has so much to offer and I am thrilled to see it should stay that way for a while. Bravo - I think this is a move in the right direction. -Bob

I mean this in the best possible way, so please take it as such. This is not a slam or flame, just a reality check. Why an impreza? Why not a corolla? Your money is far better spent getting a used WRX and modding the heck out of it. And it would cost about 1/2 as much. Do you have any idea of the massive custom fabrication involved? It is nowhere near bolt in and I'd bet good money the engine is way too tall for the subaru engine bay. The absolute best advice I can give you is to not pursue this at all. The engine/tranny/etc.. will at a min cost 5-6k. Then the fabrication cost will easily cost 3-4 times that and it may never work perfectly. Oh, I didn't include fuel tank, fuel pump/lines, larger aftermarket radiator, intercooler, exhaust, etc.. which all cost a significant penny. This is not even a task for some very experienced fabricators. You could pick up a used R32 GT-R skyline for cheaper I'd bet. -Bob

Sorry, thanks for the point-out. I have a rubber isolation beneath it to help set the angle for the driveshaft. But I never thought that was an issue,(i.e. not having it). -Bob

I would look carefully at flashoptions as they list some incorrect info on the RB26 motor they have listed,(the R-32 clip). Not a good sign. -Bob

Brian, Shoot me a PM or an e-mail and I have a good source. Both Brad D and I got our motors from him and Russel is soon getting his. I can give you his e-mail and details off line. -Bob

well, then you know how much they are worth. do a search of this forum to see where I and others have procured our motors from. My source is now $5500 vice $6500. Or maybe it was $6800 to 5800...can't remember. Either way, well covered in this forum if you do a search. -Bob

Sorry, it dumped my reply from last night. My fault. Bernard will give you everything you need with the engine. Just ensure you get all the wiring harness,(he did a good job for me), including the air flow meters, etc.. I would suggest a new clutch as the stock ones tend to be worn down. The stock clutch is more than adequate for up to 450 hp. Remember, it was originally in an AWD car. Stony had the stock clutch in there for almost three years of drag racing,(well, two). Don't forget the driveshaft. Beyond the items he provided to me, you will have to at a minimum purchase or fabricate the following: -A rear sump oil pan with pickup -Fuel lines front to rear x 2(pickup and return) -Fuel pump of some kind -Either modify the stock fuel tank or go with an aftermarket fuel cell -Custom motor mounts of some kind. Brad makes some, I have a set of his that I will be selling, and Rick who posts here also has a set,(more expensive but pretty and I think they use a different engine mount rubber, i.e. the stock RB26 mount). -custom aftermarket radiator - don't skimp on this as the RB is a notoriously hot running motor and it requires a big radiator in the Z's engine compartment to keep up. Whatever you do, don't run a stock radiator or an aftermarket stock style 4 core. You will have to fabricate custom mounts for whatever radiator you choose. -Intercooler of some kind - tons of options here -piping for the exhaust all the way back,(Brad has the flange design ready and can laser cut you some flanges to start from) and piping for the intake and intercooler piping. -custom transmission mount - I suggest getting the Moroso Chevy solid transmission mount and using the JTR tranny cross member. The Moroso tranny mount has widened and slotted upper bolt holes and will line up with the stock RB25 tranny mount points. It then bolts directly into the JTR tranny mount which bolts into your floorpan. Simplest solution in my opinion. I can provide the part number if anyone wants this(the moroso part). -You will be able to use the first part of the stock RB26 rear driveshaft to go from your tranny to a R-200 rear end. It will be close, but it should work. -At least one person has gotten their RB26 running on the stock wiring harness and ECU, and I hopefully will be the second. There is always SDS or some other aftermarket engine management. That is the bare minimum. The big thing I would ask Bernard for in addition to a new or barely used clutch is the following: -oil pan gasket -Possibly the N1 water pump,(better design and helps the hot running engine) -Possibly an aftermarket oil pump and some kind of oil cooler. The last two are if you will track the car. Putting it out on a road course for 20+ min at a time will pump a bunch of heat through the systems and those parts are a good idea. That is all I can think of right now. Good luck! -Bob

If you are asking what is the cheapest place to buy one of those motors, this swap isn't for you. It is not a cheap swap and the motor is at best 1/2 of the total cost of the swap. At worst, it is less than 1/3 of the cost. -Bob

And I think you fell into that trap again. The said application,(i.e. racing, drag or road, street driving, show, etc..) will make some difference in how it can be done or what to do. Second, as i'm sure you must know by now, very very few have finished the SR20 swap - and that means there is little info. Second, noone here who posts here has done the swap. Keep looking, and more important, search... and Search again as there are some good threads discussing it. Mike,(on3go), started one of them. -Bob

Just to clear one thing up Adam as a FYI. When putting the RB26 into a Z, it must have a rear sump pan, vice a front sump pan as the stock RB26 and the RB25 pan. The RB20 pan from the 200zr,(z31 300zx with a RB20, very rare), you can make it work, but you must modify the pan to fit over the girdle. As such, those of us who are or have put the RB26 into a Z have done one of two things. Either we custom fabricated our own oil pan, or one guy modified the 200zr pan,(Stony - moderator of this forum). If you search some of the pictures of Z conversions, about 80% of the motor sits behind the front struts vice 70%+ being in front of the struts in a 240sx. A rear sump pan is required. If you know of a readily adaptable pan and pickup that is a rear sump, I'm all ears as others doing this conversion won't have to do what I did and create a custom one-off oil pan.

Nope. Sorry to burst your bubble. The front diffs from early 80's nissan 4x4's are often used in track and street Z's. It is the same design as the rear R-180's, just used in the front. What you need to find out is what direction the Honda S-2000 diff turns. it might be that the S-2000 tranny works such to make the driveshaft turn in a conventional way. If not you will have to work some S-2000 diff swap. There was an article in Grassroot Motorsport not long ago about a guy who was running a S-2000 motor in a spitfire or something like that. I might be able to find it... -Bob

Rick, It was put on hold when I had to go qualify to land on an Aircraft Carrier in the E-2C Hawkeye. I just finished Sunday. I will know where I will be stationed tomorrow and am finally ready to start back on it again. I now have my digital camera back from the boat and I can take some pictures of my 260z for the two guys who wrote me while I was at the boat. Hopefully I'll sell that and my Blazer as well pretty soon as I have too many cars sitting around here... I expect about a month for it to be running and complete. In reality it is a week or so of work, but I know how that works. With my luck, it will be two months. The sooner it is on the road, the better as I am missing track days. -Bob