Booztd 3

Joel Send me an email buddy (booztd3 at gmail dot c0m) Thanks

Nothing absurd. My car runs great, Its just an ambition of mine to build one of these motors. If I find one for a good price, then so be i but I won't be breaking the bank on one thats for sure

God no, I've had enough problems with ACT clutches in several Evo's I've worked on to make me stay away for life South Bend Clutch http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/html/skyline.html There's several options but the extreme duty 6-puck is sprung and rated for 800+ ft/lb's of torque (in a skyline weight chassis) Since you have a multi-disc you'd need to find an RB flywheel. The pedal stiffness is not bad at all. I have driven ACT, RPS, etc that are way worse. What trans are you running? I also did this upgrade and it made the pedal feel significantly better. This fork is much less prone to flex with higher clamp load pressure plates..... http://www.zspeedperformance.com/Nissan-90-96-300zx-Heavy-Duty-Clutch-Fork-Upgrade-Kit-cd000kit.htm It says' for 300ZX but it works just fine with my RB25 bell housing.

I made 645 the last time on the dyno, and without knowing exactly what your car weighs I'm going to assume its at least 500, if not more like 700-800# lighter than mine. The feramic extreme duty 6puck will handle 800+ft/lb's. Not to mention for the price of a triple plate or even a twin disc you could buy several of these. I had mine rebuilt this year and I measured it before sending it in and it was right at 1/2 worn spec. The rebuild only cost me $200 bucks. You will not find bad feedback on these guys.......

They were talking about sponsoring me but I never heard anything back. I had originally sent Dan an email with all my car info and he never responded so I'll likely have to find a different source.

There's no need for a triple plate with today's clutch technology. I have been on the same single, 6-puck clutch for almost 4 years now making 700rwhp the entire time in a 3600+ lb car. I have roughly 100 timeslips in an envelope from this time period as well. With the weight of the chassis you have and I'm assuming that T04Z combo isnt making too much more than 700 at the tires. FWIW I'm using a South Bend / DXD Racing clutch - Under 600-700 bucks and customer service has been top notch

Like I said in the private message, post up your settings. It is likely you're just not meeting the criteria the Nitrous control wants in order to turn itself on. To test safely, I always just disconnected the fuel/nitrous lines from the actual solenoids and listened for them to click.

Attended a local dyno day over the weekend - Had to show up the V8 boys! - 1st place with 732rwhp

$3049 includes pistons and rods of their choice. I want to build my own custom setup - I have built several engines in the past, and would like to do so on this one as well. From my understanding an untouched RB30 from raw brokerage is ~1800 I am sure I could figure out something in regards to NZ shipping. I have shipped a lot of stuff across the United States using commercial methods

Guys I've sent out several emails to vendors and no luck so far. RIPS told me they had no spares to sell that didnt belong to a build they were already in the process of doing. I haven't been in the engine hunting game for a while so if anyone has any leads - please let me know!

It was a ton of fun and way more "streetable" than the RB setup. However all that torque resulted in a lot of tirespin for that tiny little car.

You like LS turbo setups huh? I got bored with my Z32 last year so I built this little gem. From the day I pulled it in bone stock to the garage to a dyno chart and completion was 3 months I fabricated the entire turbo system and did the tuning Over 340 pictures of the build here http://s3.photobucket.com/user/Booztd3/library/S13%20LS%20Turbo%20Build?sort=2&page=1 That car was a TON of fun. Sold it to free up some funds earlier this year

Yes sir - just an RB bell housing mated up

I haven't done any parts sales in several years. With as low as part prices are on ebay it is really not worth the effort. Now I just stick to completing peoples projects (something you cant replicate and sell on ebay I only ran an auto for a very short time, which was to aid in helping BDE develop their TH400 adapter kit. At that time, I switched back to the 5sp and have been running that ever since.

And hit me up sometime Stony! Booztd3@gmail.com I saw later last year in one of my posts you were asking if I was still playing around with these things - Absolutely! I am working with a vendor right now to develop an off the shelf 10:1 C/R piston and would really like to build a 10:0 RB30 setup

Noticed a few of my posts have been stickied since I left - cool to know people still appreciate some good info from time to time! I have been busy as ever with my car lately. I fixed a bunch of crap on the car over the winter and in the process upgraded to ID2000 injectors. My 1000's were on the ragged edge of 100% duty cycle so I wanted to give myself some headroom. I didn't make any other "power" related changed except the addition of a GM boost control solenoid. This coming winter I am looking to build an engine for this car so if anyone has or knows of a good RB26 short/long block for sale please let me know! I went up to Sound Performance yesterday and spun the rollers over. I don't think any microphone can do justice to what this thing sounds like at full song....its ear piercing Yes - This car is still on a stock shortblock - so don't be hesitant to push the envelope guys! At a little over 30psi the car made ~770rwhp and ~645 ft/lbs. We went for 35 psi but it mis-fired a few times and we ran out of time to adjust the dwell settings. I kind of battled the car getting hot all day which made for a little pain but all in all I am happy with the car. Here's a dyno chart of the run before it made 770 (the 770 run we didn't monitor torque so I didnt take the print out) and a surprise that was waiting for me when I got home tonight Here's a chart showing the 770 pull vs the 35 psi pull. You can see on the blue line (35psi) it was making 50-60rwhp more than 30 psi at the 108mph mark but started misfiring around the 115mph mark (no RPM signal so no torque values) One of the biggest undertakings over the winter was I painted the engine bay. I pulled everything out and did it right - Used a single stage PPG in superwhite. I think it turned out great after doing a bit of house cleaning

The engagement shaft of the sensor, as well as the cam, are keyed. There is only one way they can fit with eachother

Guys Just got back from a dyno session @ sound performance in chicago I maxed out the injectors, and I think I've reached the limitations of the stock ignition system. I'm hoping thats why it hiccuped a little around 7400 Final Pull was at ~24-25 psi, it spiked a little and then fell off Final numbers: 718rwhp 587rwtq Here's a link to the dyno chart (you can zoom in on it) http://www.booztd3.com/Pictures/Dyno_Charts/BW66_Dyno_25psi.jpg Rain is heading in, so I only took it out for a few pulls......the car def rips... Here's the 718rwhp dyno vid....youtube really killed the sound quality Heres a short vid out in the country....took it to right around 140 from a 20 or so roll.... Big thanks to my buddies Greg (for lending his big-ass diesel) Brian (for the trailer) and Rusty for being the pit-crew and providing moral support

Guys This is how you properly disassemble an RB26/RB25/Z32 CAS The purpose of the disassembly was to install the 24-tooth AEM Disc This particular write-up will show pictures of a Z32 CAS. The only difference I noticed in taking both RB26 Mitsu and Z32 Mitsu CAS was the 3 screws for the main cover. Pictured below, begin by removing the 3 screws for the cover. On the Z32, it uses tamper proof screws, the RB just uses regular screws. I used my smallest chisel punch and tapped them until they came loose, and then finished removing them with a large flathead Once the screws are out, lightly tap the shaft of the CAS, and it will separate from the cover Next, the dowel pin holding the engagement shaft on to the CAS assembly I placed the CAS in a small vice where it could not move 'downwards' and used an air hammer with a grinded off punch You can see I got the dowel to move. I used a small punch to remove it the rest of the way. You may have problems getting the pin out, on the RB CAS, I had to take a die grinder with a cut-off wheel and grind off the flat spot that was holding the dowel in place Main cover, engagement shaft, dowel pin Now, the front bearing needs to be removed. I accomplished this by using a small 7mm socket to fit over the 1/2 moon piece that engages the camshaft 1/2 moon. (the CAS below had the indexing key broke off, so i was able to just set the puller right on the intermediate shaft) I then used a small 3 jaw puller purchased from harbor freight for just a few dollars. I had to grind the bottoms off of the jaws so it would fit all the way under the bearing Here you can see the bearing is removed, next you want to remove the 2 gold screws that hold the intermediate shaft to the main shaft After removing the 2 small screws, you need to press the main shaft out of the lower bearing. Begin by popping off the rubber Mitsu cover. I used a smaller socket to fit into the bearing and onto the main shaft. Again, I used the small puller to press out the main shaft. I used the small punch to hold the shaft from spinning while I turned the puller I apologize for the following blurry pic, but after the intermediate shaft is removed, the wheel will come right out. Its held in place by being pressed in between the main shaft and intermediate shaft. Now install the AEM 24 tooth disc. You can see the disc below. You DO NOT need to remove the actual black part of the sensor. I only did this for educational purposes Once the disc is in, place the intermediate shaft back onto the main shaft and secure the 2 small gold screws. At this point the main shaft needs to be pressed back into the lower bearing. I accomplished this by placing the front bearing back over the intermediate shaft, and then using a socket, and a vice as a press. Press the bearing on until it seats, and it will continue to press the main shaft into the lower bearing. After that, you need to install the engagement shaft and the dowel pin. Once again I used the bench vise Now install main cover and 3 securing screws, as well as the rubber dust cover on the back side. The CAS should spin freely. If not, you dont have the shafts and bearings seated properly. I had a used leftover Z32 harness that I cut the connector off of, and depinned the RB CAS connector, and then pinned it back into the Z32 connector. Installed on the car, and here is the result Dont forget to make the necessary software changes that AEM requires http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=20346.0;attach=6108 The car started right up, and after getting some seat time, the typical 'hiccup' stock CAS sensors have is now gone. The car accels significantly smoother, and I went out and did some 25psi pulls and didnt have a single issue. Hopefully hitting the dyno up friday! Cheers!

AEM EMS.....RB26 harness.....just deloomed the harness, removed the AWD stuff......and several wires get connected to the chassis.. (starter, fuel pump, ignition, water temp, tach, speedo, etc) Also just a few wires to power up the ECCS and IGN relay.....I dont have anything documented, its best to just get an RB26 FSM and 300ZX FSM and cross-examie the wiring diagrams

Front...earls has a fitting that replaces the stock oil return, you can use a -10 that hooks right up...

I loved all the track guys' reaction when you started heading towards the wall......looked like they were all shitting their pants...

Belongs to Karl Lindgren from Wisconsin I believe....I have spoken with him over email quite a few times.....

Looks fun! I've forgotten what a trip to the drag strip, without breaking anything, feels like!

http://www.rbz32.com Should be able to find lots of info and pics