Booztd 3

yes, me too, but I've also paid thousands of dollars to make this car track legal when I go, and I'd feel it was a waste to have the car setup, and never go for fear of breaking something in the drivetrain with all that HP

That could be majorly dependant on whether or not you have no-lift-shift setup, and how big of a granny driver you are I did a back to back test of the no-lift-shift compared to not using it. I picked up a whole half a second, because of the time it was taking the car to get back into boost between shifts My biggest dilmenma right now is this I'm going to do one major upgrade this winter, and I've whittled it down to two options 1. Built Motor 2. Auto Trans swap With the built motor I'll be able to make my dreams come true with 900-1000rwhp, however, putting that number to the ground effectively, and at the track will be an entirely different story Going to the Auto trans, I can maintain my power level (as long as the engine holds) at 650~rwhp, and still run low 10s/high 9's The Pros/Cons of doing either. I drive the car ALOT, like alot more than most would drive their project car of this caliber. Work, Gym, it usually goes everywhere on nice days, but ultimately I love taking it to the track. Which do I enjoy most? Hard to say right now........Doing the auto would make it not near as fun to drive around, and create alot of excess heat in the cockpit. Keeping the 5spd would likely ensure lots of enduring evenings in the garage fixing broken transmissions:shock:

Thats because you're loading the suspension, and keeping it real, like we all should be I have yet to see an automatic + R200/R230 failure. From my experience its all been due to some type of violent drivetrain shock (high RPM dumps, or extreme wheelhop)

Already have them....

I'm guessing that the severe wheelhop that happened as I was doing my burnout is what started the process, and a good 1/2 shift just finished the damage, lol

My car is an original TT I have the R230 rear end and all that fancy 'beefy' stuff already

Good luck buddy I think the next step is an auto , before I build it up.....seriously

I am hoping for mid to high 10's if all the drivetrain parts hold together I edited the original post to include the boost amount, which was 24 Thanks

Guys Got a chance to get back on the dyno last week (9-10-2007) before hitting up the drag strip (which led to the torture of an innocent output shaft. I am happy with the results, car is still picking up 20rwhp per 1psi of boost. Stock RB26 Block ARP Headstuds Tomei 1.2mm HG Stock Head w/Tomei Type A poncams Full-Race Twin Scroll Manifold Garrett GT4202-74mm Twin Tial 44mm Wastegates Full 4" exhaust 3" IC piping Duall Walbro Fuel pumps w/1000cc injectors Torco 112 Fuel Dyno Chart, 24psi, 1 Smoothing Factor Video of the run Pull was from 60mph to 140mph http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/680rwhp_Booztd3.wmv Probably will not push the car anymore this year, power-wise, as its still on stock block, and no need to ruin a good block before the build begins this winter. 1000HP or bust

I unloaded the motor off the pallet, pulled the head off, put headstuds and a headgasket on it, and buttoned it back up. Thats the only thing thats been done to it

Another thing people do is just upgrade injectors by 30% and leave everything else. If you're running twin walbro's you should have enough to support 700rwhp.

The 90-96 Q45 (R200) features the same 6-bolt 30-spline axles, hubs, and output shafts used in the 90-96 Nissan 300ZX TT (R230).

Never experienced a failure like this before, but glad I didnt take the trans out. Luckily I have spares.... I give you........the output shaft.... Remnants I spent about 20 minutes cleaning all of this out of the diff/rear end The good output shaft that just went in.... Car seems to be driving fine. It took a 1/2 power shift as expected just moments ago

Not if you already have 1000's....... You typically want to supplement your fuel system with the ability to supply 30% more fuel for E85

Good question I havent gotten the car apart yet

Not a whole lot to see but, the clutch did say goodbye.... Enjoy Right-Click Save-As http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/Broke_Clutch.wmv Already have a new clutch solution planned, I was running the OS Triple Plate, but I'll be going back to a 300ZX NA flywheel and an 'affordable' clutch setup that should handle 700+ft/lb of tq, stay tuned.

Guys have been putting down 700+rwhp in supras on E85. I know a similar situation E85+Meth netted 850+rwhp My car is making 550~rwhp on 93 octane, i cant wait to do the E85 tune

680rwhp @ 7900-8000rpms.....my car keeps making power the higher you go, it never falls off If i could rev to 8500-9000 I'd surely make good amounts more, I just do not trust the stock oiling system, rod bolts, etc etc. This is still a stock block, stock head car (with the exception of headstuds and a headgasket)

Ladies and gents The last few days have been extremely tiring.......to say the least I headed out of work monday afternoon and headed for my brother's dyno shop. The initial plan was to install my set of adjustable cam gears, get a baseline pull and then switch to E85 and see what we could do. I had heard good things about cam gears and even the recent discussion on this forum, seemed to show some good evidence. So the cam gears go on somewhat smoothly. I do notice the allen head bolts they use to secure the cam from moving out of adjustment, are pieces of ****. I am in a shop full of tools and cant find one that'll fit correctly, I do my best to tighten them down w/out stripping them, and get it all back together. Fired the car up, made a pass at 18psi........car made like 540ish, or something. I started off with a +2/-4 like everyone was saying should be a decent baseline. The car makes horrible power, I go back and look at the cam gears and sure enough the exhaust one slipped completely to full retard (20 degrees) So I have to pull it back apart and fix that, get the cam gears zero'd out and go to fire it up, wont start. 2 Hours later I figure out that when the cam gear slipped, it actually caused the key to jog in the CAS which was completley throwing my signal off. Tired of pissing with it all, and being 11pm already, I 0'd the cam gears out again, got the CAS in, synched the timing with AEM, and made one 18psi pass just to make sure the car was good to go, boom 550+rwhp, OK cool, good night Yesterday morning comes early, and decided that I just do not have the time to do an e85 tune, I just throw some Torco 112 in. Having previously hit 600rwhp~ @ 20psi with torco 112 I figured this tuning would go pretty easy as all i would have to do is adjust some fuel. Luckily enough, it did. at 24-25psi the car made 680rwhp at 480~TQ. I was on the dyno for probably 30-40 mins and the car was working well. So we loaded the car up along with my brother's mustang and we went out to Gateway Raceway (st louis MO) for a tuesday night test n tune. 1st pass out, I launch in 1st with a 1.8x 60', and right after shifting to 2nd the car just looses its power. I had to feather the gas all the way to the finish. It feels like the clutch broke, or completely glazed itsself. I have never troubleshooted a triple plate system before, but I can say that the car has problems moving under its own power (feels like the clutch is slipping) I got home at 3AM this morning and was back up at 7 for work I suppose i will get it apart this weekend to see what the damage is. Since it was so busy I forgot to grab the winpep files off the dyno PC, but I should have them within the next day or so, and I also have videos of the dyno pases, and also I have in-car and out of car video of me breaking, so I'll get that stuff up too..... LaterZ

My R230 has held up damn well for the last few years over 500rwhp. The guys running a TH400 trans are launching these things in the 1.3 60ft mark on completely stock rear ends........I was cutting 1.5 60foots on radials and slicks last year

I think the last time he went to the drag strip he grenaded the rear end

I am working on that, unfortunately I went to the drag strip friday night but my camera died before my first pass. I went 11.60@124 two consecutive passes in a row and then an 11.8 @ 122. ALl runs had horrible launches because of teh fact they didnt prep the track one bit for the event. I did win fastest import again, a trophy, and 100 bucks cash! Justin, the 67mm is not a divided housing, so we'll see what the difference in spool really is here....Anyone have a real GT37R with a divided housing they'd let me borrow for back to back testing?

Go to freshalloy.com and look in the GTR forums. Do a search on oil and restricter and it should return alot of results regarding this topic. Theres alot for me to explain there, lol

Guys I was looking for a more 'streetable' turbo (those pesky LS1 cars get a good jump) so I decided on a PT67dbb (AKA GT37R) We started the fab work tonight, modifying the existing downpipe. I am making an intermediate downpipe piece so that I'll easily be able to remove this turbo and swap out to my 42 in probably 20 minutes if im quick. You can see where the intermediate piece will be, right after the turbo Waiting on 2 more v-band flanges to show up tomorrow and I should be up and running this weekend, cant wait!

Not the moment. I have been hesitant to buy. My expense account has been pretty tapped lately, haha.