nat0_240_chevZ

im running a 3 row stock rad for a 260z, no fan, but it stays ok aslong as im moving. Currently (well i was)$ in the process of making an ally shroud at work and foing to run a stock clutch fan, thought it would look more scheek under the hood than a couple of thermo's my recent experience, however i have just bought myself A PWR ally 2 row radiator off ebay AUS to fit my Zed, whata a score. nato

the 30 spline outputs arent really a problem if you grab the output with it, then you can bolt up any s14 or other later model 6 bolt flange to it ie a hyrid half shaft, although if you just after a plug in type z31 NA or turbo shaft swap then probly a no go. the s14 fellas here are swapping them like bits of lego, no real problems. nato

yes with all 3 posts above, buy them so you know what you are dealing with.

mmmmmm ahhhrg, drool new ford gt40. makes an even nicer notE than my chev!!

have seen the 153 624 pairing but only on a local engine with a slightly different firing order, hence probly why the diff. you are chasing the 6 smaller hits on the turbine for better spoolup, as any irregular pulse interupts the smoothe acceleration of the turbine wheel, have a look at all the topend ex manifolds all aim for it, same with tuned length, or length compensation due to extra bends. for an l-series having the 123 cyls into one commen collector and aswell as the 456 into another, gives best spread of pulses. then thos 2 colletors into1 or in the case of split/multi scrolls 1 into each scroll or have a flap that switches scrolls and is actuated by ex back pressure. smooth bends into sudden merges/collection for pre turbo ex.

come on, give it up......

have a shell with 18x9's all round and rear zg's need an extra inch to fill them althought the offset could be more inboard with coilovers ie upto 3/4 inch. fronts are also out the stock gurads but the zg's cover them nicely, although the coilovers would give an extra 10-15mm once the 5mm spacer for trials is removed. These wheels have been put on a bog stock suspension 73 240z. so the ride is a lil high, aswell as the tyre to gurad clearance, can supply photos if you must. wheels are from an r33 gtr. offset has only been changed on the back +25mm, and +5mm for the fronts as abovementioned. doable but i must say that my 3 piece simmons in 16x9 rears and 16x7 fronts with appropriate tyre sidewall size looks nicer on a Z. also a problem with big rollout ie tyre dia, is the corner valances, they tend to get caught when rolling on some wheel lock!! just for your info. nato

hey gijonas vbmenu_register("postmenu_736139", true); , oops sorry about the copy paste, lol. Just to touch base with you about these vg mounts that i was told about by a mate of mine, who has the vgdett ready to go, and i must say very nice and simple way of achiveing the task, i had laid out some measurements etc and was also worried about the tubos so we gave it a break for another day. when you get around to it, for a RHD would this steering link setback still be present or worse? from what i could see both tubos are mounted exactly the same for both sides, ie no lh or rh turbo etc, just a stupid intake and dump pipe arangement from the factory. Have you maybe thought that rotaing the turbo ie compressor to the ex side would increase/decrease the clearance for a steer shaft in either RHD or LHD?? just a thought. On another note our Aus delivered/MODIFIED corvette's have the most stupidest RHD conversion i have ever seen, cant believe its legal!!! from what i have seen has a pivot bar actuating the brake and a chain coupling to operate the LHD components (throttle is just a relocation). Thought this might have some bearing onthis thread and any other info re the vgdett swap would be awsome. even pics that you think may be useless but actually show something that may be of use, especially for a RHD car. EVERYTHING IS BACKWARDS IN THE US. All you guys must hate having the handbrake on the pass side of the car, may aswell just have the clutch in the boot and the indicator stalk in the toolbox. ROFL:lol: :lol: (sorry to heckle, just had to drop it) nato

i thought it was torque numbers this fellow was asking about!!!!! depending on the rust content in the car, also any reapairs or fixups that have made the unibody stronger/weaker, depending on what day the car was made etc, ie longer spotwelds on modays and fridays lol. id probly say that upto approx 300-350ft/lb and beyond would be around the mark where you start to notice the twist! youre right about a 'can of worms', heres 1, my 340hp bike motor on alcohol only has 100Nm of torque!!!! revs...well thats another story.

yes, droop limiting and 'anti-droop' device of sorts is the best way to combat the pitching' limited rebound (movement) in the shock 'sitting closer to the fully unloaded pos'n of the shcoks travel' I have seen done with chains and other sorts. You can still improve the lift more by droop limiting moreso than with a stiffer spring rate, (could still run 250lb/" with buger all lift), Also reducing the open stroke length of the shock, its huge, and its also running a couple of inces pre-load on the perches, hence when u reduce the weight by accelerting (loading the rears ie tipping) it wants to lift

sounds like your trying to get the car sideways (drifting/powersliding) and understeering instead. first thing is the zeds tend to have really good grip in the rear due to the extra camber, irs and moderate spring rates. 2nd is you probably have an open diff, which really pushes the front when wheels turned, especially on loose surface, when i poped my lsd in mine made a *****humungous****** difference. 3rdly is tyre compounds and grip levels are a huge thing also, (although doesnt matter what tyre, if your on grit etc) grippy tyre brand on front hard durable on the rear=oversteer, but vice versa = your condition. If you have same tyres front & rear, then proply a bit of understeer bcause of the rear irs & camber. starting to follow me here, on a stock car only stock wheel alignment are capable, more castor will help the front bite in a bit, but by sounds of it u dont have extensive susp mods etc. one last thing, knowing when to put the power down cant be taught easily, timing is everything!!! nato

yes, id also be very interested to see how much you would retail them for. id be one of your 'guinipigs' in a heartbeat. keep us all posted on what goes on with these units, 'plenty of pics' and some of them instaled and being adjusted. good work again, nato

thats not fair!!!!! :mrgreen: i thought the other thread was going really well. although if gijonas wanted the pics and really negative discusion removed then fair enough. I would say that these ones look heaps sturdier, very impressive i must say. nice of gijonas to take some notes on board, got this weird tingly feeling caus its like i made them myself, but didnt get dirty. lol:mrgreen: i can probly guess some concerns, 'undercut weld start/finish where re'inforcing of the outer plate starts/finishes need a slight 'fill' or pause wheen welding before you arc off. mate they look very nice and i like the finish on the cnrs of the re'in, very smooth. nato

Well i know a few types of BB that can take axial pre-load but only small amounts (about 10% of radial), they are 'Deep groove BB' either in single or double rows' also thrust collar BB take pre load when used in a positioning requirement. nato, just thought id share, think this thread is like 3 years old!!!!

good call it is a tomei, for the ramp angles mine is 45deg both dir (ie 2way) the tomei unit was/is from an r32 with 29 spline so if i wanted can run stock shafts with a new circlip groove cut (did this as a temp thing till i got the cv axles all sorted) didnt want to use a bodgy cv axle spacer adaptor and waited till i sourced a total bolt up, only thing needed was the crownwheel bolt sleeves for the 13mm holes to suit the m10 bolts, took about 45 mins to make 12 of them (a couple spares). nato

not needed, as the z31 rotors and hubs bearings etc just slip on anyways, only thing is the brake rotor is now furthar outboard. can use spacer or run difff rotors. nato

problem w the clsd is that when doing burnouts you induce heaps of heat in the clutches, no oil coilers or no air going over them if you do. It ruins the tempering in the clutch rings therefore shearing the ears off them. im now running a CLSD wit 5 clutches / side. its from an r32 skyline and has an unknown manufacturer and no stampings. set me back $660AUD andis 2way, was listed as 1.5 way and a drift centre lol. Also had 13mm crownwheel bolts and holes?? nato

have an sbc running simmilar figures to yours. no breakages since i have owned it 2+ years and has been installed since 1985 (road legal too). only thing the PO said he broke was a moustach bar mounting pin that comes from the body, has an auto trans so no problems with idiots dropping clutches as they feel. the 4 pinion r180 tends to be really stout its just the stock 2 pinion opens that tend to break. getting the lsd 4 pinion carrier tends to 'cure' there wear nature. as for the 510 idiots, well they are pretty brutal when it comes to driveline, if their engine wont out power they will just rev harder and drop the clutch. :eek:

yes poor wording, yes it is recommende to use a doubling plate. weld the bar to the doubler heavily and the plate to the body taking care not to burn through and make holes/craters. nato