Sam280Z

Which felpro set are you using? Does it include a water outlet gasket in the parts list? CS21157 doesn't. It does contain multiple variants of some gaskets that were slightly different for different years.

Your log shows your max throttle opening at 38.8%. Have you calibrated the TPS? If so, your not opening the throttle all the way. You don't show any sync loss, so it's not noise. I didn't look at your msq, but you should verify the dwell settings for the coils. Too little dwell can do this.

Thanks. I do have the coverage. Problem is Progressive is paying for the rental directly. Although, this could explain why the guy at Enterprise only put a $1 hold on my Discover Card until I "got it figured out with Progressive".

I originally was running MS1 with the distributor. It works fine, so I'm leaving it that way for the time being.

Before you install, mic each bolt and record it's length. Keep track of which bolt goes with which cylinder and side. If you ever have to disassemble, you can remeasure the bolts to see if they have yielded or if they can be reused. Read this: http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_installation.shtml

They did give me a rental. I think it is because my car is not safe to drive. I ended up fronting Progressive the cost for the comprehensive insurance on the rental. I'm only putting about $80 at risk. We'll see how they handle it. it is currently impossible to get a progressive rep on the phone.

It's starting to go south. I'm trying to get a rental which I need for work on Monday. The drivers seatbelt on my wreck will not extract and the rear suspension is a bit squirrelly. Progressive had set up a rental at enterprise but neglected to supply the required insurance. I only carry collision on my Z and enterprise requires comprehensive. No one from progressive is available to authorize this.

Same fuel source. I have it plumbed to go through the secondary rail first to make sure the fuel doesn't heat soak or boil. Only the primaries are sequential. I'm using the MS3X drivers for them and the regular mainboard drivers for the secondaries. I was planning on doing dual fuel eventually, but regular vs premium instead of E85. Feel free to ask any questions and I'll do my best to help. How are you planning to install the secondary set of injectors? I assume yo are sing the stock manifold? Here is a more recent pic that shows teh ffuel line routing:

I'm glad I had not had the chance to replace it with the fiberglass 240Z bumper yet. I have to give credit to progressive. So far they have been very professional and responsive - albeit when I call them. They have set up a rental car for me. I'm just waiting on the adjuster to contact me.

I have had Farm Bureau since 1988 and have never filed an auto claim. After Hurricane Gustav, I was made whole very quickly on my homeowners policy. Right now, I am dealing with them. Hopefully I will not have to deal directly with Progressive.

Get a couple of old head bolts and cut off the heads. Screw them into the block and use them to guide the trans on.

Well, it happened to me. Yesterday evening on my way home form work, while waiting to turn right in the merge lane, I was rear-ended hard by a Tacoma pickup truck. He hit me so hard that the keys came out of the ignition and landed in my lap. The rear is pretty well smashed, hatch destroyed, and the drivers side door gap is completely closed up. The guy that hit me has Progressive insurance. I'm waiting on the police report and the adjuster. I do not have a good feeling...

What Xnke said. The fork in your first picture will work fine. I'm using one in my 77 turbo conversion. Please use jackstands. Cinder blocks cannot take point loads and can crumble unexpectedly. I would never get under a car that was supported by cinder blocks. Sam

The fork is the same between models. You just need the correct collar.

Ben, The slave should just slide in. Where did you source it? When the clutch is released there should be little to no pressure on the fork. If you can't get the slave in there, something is definitely wrong. Did the spacer you removed look like this: ? What size flywheel do you have 240mm or 225mm? You need the TO bearing collar that goes with the pressure plate (225 or 240mm). This is a common error.

Didn't notice the question about why 1.5mm. The answer is that the block was decked excessively and this was not discovered until the pistons went in and protruded about .020" above deck. I have proper quench of about .040". Sam

I'd need to know much more about the engine components you plan to use to tell you if sequential would be worth it . You have so much more room for easy upgrading with the MS3 & MS3X than the MS2 provides. THe only additional effort required to go to sequential is running 6 wires to the injectors instead of 2. I would say that you will eventually have more effort with the MS2 by the time you start implementing various options, but less expense. If I were in your shoes, I would take a serious look at the MS3Pro. Sam

No problems thus far. Been driving it for about a month.

I don't know what your project is - if you are repairing the stock harness or installing megasquirt or something. When I installed megasquirt, I found that the connector that was supplied with the car was prettty mangled. I just used 4 regular female insulated crimp on spade connectors. They fit inside the dist housing fine. The only issue is you have to keep track of which one goes where. Sam

Well it is done and I'm driving it again. I don't know if it is the balance tube, smaller injectors, or the new placement of the injectors - but it runs much better that it ever has before. The engine is way more responsive and results of tuning changes are much more repeatable. The turbo spools quicker off the line and the MAP dropped about 5kPa at idle. When the HG blew I had switched algorithms from Speed Density to Alpha N with another VE table set up to multiply MAP per this post: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=125&t=42398&p=344034&hilit=ITB+turbo#p324832 It was working better than just SD but not nearly as well as it is working now.

Got mine from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Q8TV4/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01 For $5.22 I couldn't afford not to buy one. I used it this past weekend when adjusting my cam timing. It works perfectly. It slips in with no effort. There is no tension on it, so I don't see how it could "pop" in any direction unless you futzed with it when you shouldn't. It does allow the tensioner to move out a bit - taking a little bit of chain slack- but slipping a long screwdriver through the cam sprocket into the cam allows you to lever the sprocket right back on. Sam

bearing goes on top of the front strut and allows the strut to turn with the wheels. There is one on both sides. control arms are supposed to be like that: same part on both sides, just flipped.

Link to larger pics: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/110595327894846974778/albums/5827006289261665345

A couple of weeks ago, my HG blew. Turns out to be improper installation by the idiot that assembled the engine (me). I used pieces from two different MLS head gaskets to get the required 1.5mm thickness and neglected to alternate the layers properly (embossed, shim, embossed, shim, embossed) and had the two shims (and two embossed) next to each other. This lasted for two years before it gave up. I think it explains the slight loss of coolant over time that I was attributing to evaporation because Nothing showed up with a pressure test of the cooling system. Right before the HG blew, I has started a project to move the injectors from the TB's to the intake at the head. Basically, I cut a flange from a stock manifold and welded it to a cannon manifold and opened the injector ports form 11mm to 14mm. I have also taken the opportunity to add vacuum ports in each runner to assist in balancing the TBs and a port for the IAT sensor in the 5th runner. I was having a real bitch of time tuning transients because (I assume) the large injectors were so far from the head and the fuel was wetting the walls excessively and extremely long delays between changing inputs and subsequent changes in AFR (nearly 1s lambda delay). I will be using a set of 19lb injectors at the head and the larger 60lb injectors in the TBs with staged injection. Hopefully this will help.

It is installed. Everything lines up and looks like it will work...