Sam280Z

See if there is voltage at the injector with the ignition off. If not, you are good. Looking at the wiring diagram, it appears that this is the case. The injectors get power from the Electronic Fuel Injection Main Relay. Sam

First a little more info on the engine: Cam Specs Intake Cam Lift: .318 in Exhaust Cam Lift: .315 in Overlap 40deg In opens 23deg BTC Ex closes 17deg ATC In closes 63deg ABC Ex opens 51deg BBC In: 266deg @ .015 in lift Ex: 254deg @ .015 lift 110deg intake centerline Managed to do some pretty cool things even without a triggerwheel that allows sequential . Set the idle timing at 10deg BTDC while under no load at idle with a switch point to bump it to 20deg when the AC compressor loads the engine and lowers the MAP. This keeps the idle speed nearly constant at around 850RPM when the AC kicks on. Set a more reasonable deadtime based on this: http://www.msextra.c...njdeadtime.html I happen to be running the same DEKA injectors so I lucked out. My tune is much more stable with changing air temps now. Corrected a wiring error. I had wired the 12V for the optical trigger to the Fuel Pump relay. The car would start fine if you started cranking as soon as you turned it on. If you waited it would not start. This is because MS powers the FP for 2 seconds and then turns it off until the car starts. Bumping the cranking speed up to 300 RPM from 100 RPM helped with starting a lot as well.

Got the MS3 installed and configured to run using the 280ZXT trigger wheel and the mainboard injector drivers. Next step is to install a different trigger wheel with both crank and cam position information so I can try out sequential injection. Sheymyazaz, check out the links at the bottom of my post #3 in this thread. I hope to do all the triggering inside the dizzy since it has two optical triggers. Right now leaning towards using the one in the right hand side of the photo in post 3.

Even the NA cars have check valves.

Haven't done anything else yet (except reading). Just adding these links on wiring: MS3 and MS3X: http://www.msextra.c...3/hardware.html Relay Board: http://www.megamanua...assemble.htm#ew 280ZX Tach wiring: http://forums.hybrid...asquirt-wiring/ http://jbperf.com/#

Don't mind at all... sam

Updated the trigger wheel drawing to include locating holes. Can be found here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102280-ms3-w-ms3x-install-l6-turbo-sequential-injection-boost-control/?do=findComment&comment=957516

So that's where I am so far. Got it started. Went back to MS1 Extra for now because this is my daily driver. Next step is to get the MS3 and MS3X wiring installed - and cleaner than I did with the MS1 install. Good news is I used terminal plugs on all sensors, so I should be able to switch back and forth pretty quickly. Major difference in this install and last (aside from many many more wires) is the relay board. On my MS1 I wired in all my own relays. One thing that is needed is the trigger. The 280ZXT optical trigger is fine for batch injection. For sequential, the MS3 needs more timing information. It appears that there are a couple of options shown here: On the right is a CAD drawing of option 1. I have copied the design of a 24 hole + 1 cam pos hole trigger wheel from the diyautotune site. Theirs is the wrong diameter for the 280ZXT distributor. With the help of a fellow HybridZ member, I am going to see about getting one fabbed up. .005" tolerance is between .01 and .02 deg accuracy. Trigger wheel is .15mm or .006in thick. Attached .txt doc is a dwg file. remove the .txt extension for use in CAD programs. CAS_Trigger_Wheel.dwg.txt On the left is option 2. The 300ZX optical trigger wheel I just found this tonight and don't know if it will work - its all in alpha stages of development. Links: Megasquirt-3 MS3 Ignition - Nissan 360 tooth CAS and Optispark: http://www.msextra.c.../nissancas.html Megasquirt-3 MS3 GM Optispark: http://www.msextra.c...k.html#settings MS3 Tach Input from Nissan Cas No Signal.: http://www.msextra.c...p?f=131&t=41816 Nissan RB25 CAS, how can I help?: http://www.msextra.c...p?f=125&t=40767 Optispark GM DiyAutotune: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_chevy_lt1_lt4_l99.htm That's all for tonight...

This weekend I swapped the MS1 out with the MS3 and after a lot of reading, finally figured it out enough to get it running. First thing was moving what I could of the "tune" over. Limited instructions are here: http://www.msextra.c...s3/upgrade.html I went table by table in TunerStudio and grabbed screen captures for information I could not export and import. I then attempted to put similar settings in MS3. This is tricky as many settings that use millisecond units in MS1 use % in MS3. I swagged it based on my recollections of PW values. It is apparent that much of my tune will have to be re-done in MS3. My next real challenge was that MS Extra used the FIdle output to trigger the ignition. Since MS3 can have it's own ignition driver, this connection to the Crane Hi6 unit was not going to work. Remember, I'm using the optical 280ZXT distributor already set up for MS1 Extra per the instructions here: http://forums.hybrid...asquirt-wiring/ It took a while, but I found the instructions to trigger a CDI box here (It's almost at the bottom of the page in section "CDI spark box e.g. MSD") : http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/ignition.html#ignout As far as I can tell, the diyautotune MS3 w/ MS3X does not come with the ignition driver installed on the 3.57 board. I guess they expect you to use the MS3X tacho output. One wire into the MS3X connector (pin 26) run to the tach input on the Crane Hi6 and it started right up. I didn't run it long because the trigger information is handled different in MS3 that MS1. More to research here: http://www.msextra.c...istributor.html USE THESE SETTINGS AT YOUR OWN RISK I DO NOT KNOW WHAT I AM DOING THIS CAR IS NOT TUNED YET Settings (all others grayed out): Spark Mode: Trigger Return Trigger Angle: 68.00 (this is unique to my car - It depends on where the dist is locked down.) Use Cam Signal: Off ** Skip Pulses: 3 ** Ignition Input Capture: Rising Edge ** Spark Output: Going High (Inverted) Number of coils: Single Coil Spark Hardware in use: Tacho Cam Input Used: JS10 ** Fixed Advance: Use Table (this is set to a specific value when timing the engine) Cranking dwell: 6.0 ** Cranking Advance: 20.0 Dwell Type: Fixed Duty ** Dwell Duty: 25% ** read this value somewhere - need to find Sprk Hardware Latency: 0 ** middle LED indicator: Off ** Overdwell Protection: Off ** Spark Trim: Off ** ALL SETTINGS REQUIRE A POWER CYCLE TO SET IN THE CONTROLLER. ** Do not fully understand this yet.

Putting this here because its the first thing to read: http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html I just got my MS3 with MS3X on version 3.57 board from diyautotune. I'm going to use this thread to keep track of my install and important information & links. This is the engine it is going to control. It is currently using a MS1 w/ HiRes code Engine components (that matter): 63lb/hr Siemens Deka injectors, TWM ITBs, Holset turbo, Crane HI6 CID ignition (similar to MSD 6AL), Rebello worked P90 head w/ solid cam, stock balanced rods/crank, JE forged flat top pistons with valve reliefs (~8.5:1 compression), 280ZXT optically triggered distributor These are BIG injectors and even running the HiRes MS code, I can only change fuel by ~10% at idle. 0.035ms is the smallest change supported by HiRes and my PW at idle is about 1.3xx ms. A 1ms injector opening time means that is 10% of my "injecting" pulse width (PW). I'm getting terrible (<16mpg) mileage and will be looking to the MS3 to help with that. other than that, it is running very well. More to come...

The carbs do not have ports for balancing like motorcycle engines. I guess you could install ports in the manifold, but accepted practice is to use a flowmeter like a uni-syn or, better yet, a synchrometer. These measure airflow through the throat. Sam

I never denied that the newer style is superior or easier or an improvement. I never said the stock connectors were perfect. I just said that the improvements were, IMO, not worth the additional costs. And, unfortunately, cost is a factor in most peoples' builds. Kaizen can be applied both to the functional engineering of a product over its lifestyle as well as to the processes the technician (me) uses on the floor. Improvements to the processes (diagnosis, repair, or testing) can be made by giving the technician the right tools and knowledge. If you want to call me out on something, call me out on the fact that I didn't give any tips on quickly removing the clip. I thought about it, but was in a bit of a hurry. This is easily done with a 90deg pick. That is really all you need to snap each side of the clip out and back a fraction of an inch so that it rests inside the groove on the side of the clip. The clip can stay on the connector. The connector will slide right of the injector with the clip in this position. Having the right tool available can be just as effective as the most engineered and improved upon part. And this particular tool can be used for many other purposes. If cost were no factor, I'd have the newer style clips on my car, with gold contacts and carbon fiber bodies. Oh well, life is hard.

While I'm fabbing everything up and know I'll be connecting & disconnecting stuff repeatedly, I just pull the wire clips and stash them in the ashtray. That's where they are now. When I'm done the clips go back on. Call me cheap, but the $13 plus cost of grease and heatshrink went towards the purchase of a MS3. But, to each his own.

IMO, for the price, you can't beat the original poster's link. Forrest's connectors work just fine. Although there have been improvements over the years, 99.99% of the time you don't need them. I'm not sure they are worth the extra money that could be put into something that actually makes horsepower. I've had a set of Forrest's connectors on my car for over a year. I had to disconnect them this weekend while I was experimenting with some different injectors. They appeared and functioned as new. If you know what you are doing With minimal effort, that little clip is no problem. (See my post below for instructions.) There was no corrosion on the contacts - the supplied dielectric grease was still there. But that's what I love about HybridZ. The level of discussion over the technical merits of something as simple as an injector clip is awesome. Sam Edited to remove offensive language.

I drew this up in autocad based on the DIY photo and measurements taken from a 280ZXT trigger wheel. I have the dwg file, but the site will not let me upload it for some reason. If you download the CAS_Trigger_Wheel.dwg.txt file and change the extension back to dwg, it will open in autocad. My MS3 is on the way. I need to figure out a trigger solution quick. Sam CAS_Trigger_Wheel.pdf CAS_Trigger_Wheel.dwg.txt

I am interested. Sam

I still have the tach listed in this ad: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94725-new-40phh-mikuni-carbs-act-clutch-cyl-heads-more/page__p__900437__hl__sam280z__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=900437 Sam

Disconnect the small wire from the blade terminal on the starter solenoid. If it still does it afterward, it is a fault in the starter. Otherwise, I would guess that you have wired it up in such a way that you are getting 12 V to that wire when the key is off. Sam

Empirical data is good, but in this case there are standard conversion factors. Both your vac/pressure gauge and MAP sensor have error and/or bias. I built this table a while back. pressureconversion.pdf

Check for a collapsing lower radiator hose. Sam

Before you freak out about your compression numbers: do a valve adjustment. Tight valves can cause very low compression readings - the exhaust valve is held open longer. Then make sure you have a full battery, all spark plugs removed and throttle wide open when you do the test. Sam

You can't trust looking at glass tube fuses or fusible links to tell if they are OK. You need to use an ohm meter to check for continuity. A fusible link usually, but not necessarily, will get a burnt and blistered look when they fail. The fuses can become desoldered inside the glass tube and appear to be fine but have no continuity. The FSM has good, easy to follow diagrams of the gauge circuit. Using this with a multimeter, you should be able to diagnose the problem pretty quickly. Sam

The bright links are there to set the cam timing on assembly. As soon as the engine turns over, they no longer mean anything. The important thing is that the crank timing marks and cam timing marks are correct and you have the correct number of links between them. Sam

solid differential front mount

The fittings under the carb are for running a coolant (not the engine coolant) through. some have plumbed the fuel return through them to keep the carb bodies cool. I never used them when I was running Mikunis. All the way to the left is closed, i.e. inopperative. These are not chokes, but a separate circuit for starting. I found that I never needed them, just pumped the throttle to use the accel pump when cold. Sam