rejracer

Put a timing light on it to check where #1 is firing. Based on that alone, you will be able to correct the problem. At worst it will be 120* off if you are off by 1 terminal on the cap. If you move them over 1 and it still wont start, you have one other option (2 in the opposite direction) And lastly, did you verify the direction the rotor is traveling while cranking?

New carb installation? Check for Vacuum leaks! Pull air cleaner(s) and confirm Throttle plate movement, as well as vacuum piston is operating. Check that both carb float bowls have fuel. Check ignition firing order, and timing. If it ran before you pulled the carbs off, it will run now once you find the (most likely) very basic problem. On the 260z's the casting plugs on the EGR portion of the manifold tend to rot out creating a massive vacuum leak. The casting plug iirc is on the backside of the manifold, between the manifold and the valve cover so they are hard to see/find. Casting plugs can be found cheap at your local napa.

1. Quit buying parts. 2. Troubleshoot. Start with: Clean the ECU, head temp sensor, and AFM pins and connectors. Use Deoxit D5, followed by Deoxit G5. Visually (and carefully) inspect all pins. If that does not work, just bite the bullet, and buy a new car. It will be cheaper in the long run than rebuilding what you have by buying one part at a time. How do you know which cylinders were rich vs lean? Can you post a pic of the sparkplugs?

I like the idea, I want to do something similar on my setup.

The TC rod pivot point on the front control arms is behind the control arm. When braking the compressive loads will want to rotate the control arm. Granted the AZC implementation is the best of these flawed designs because it is such a thick piece. The same basic design could be made much better by moving the pivot point forward to the center of the control arm. Actually my original rant on these is based on ignorant people wanting to put these on daily driven street cars and not inspecting them. The design is good (AZC design only) if kept in good condition. But when the bore that the compression rod bolt goes through wears, and it's just a matter of time, the same twisting will occur under braking. The big problem with a front control arm or compression arm failure is that it usually ends up in a spectacular accident with much damage done to the chassis. With the rear design when it fails at least the strut does not collapse under the car, it's just moved way out of alignment. Once again, my comments concerning this design are in application. The front design is fine for racers who inspect the car after each race. Does that articulate the problem I see in the TC Pivot point location?

Yes. It's typical of many aftermarket offerings: Wonderful execution of really bad ideas. It is just irresponsible to put these on the market. The design flaw is BASIC engineering, and obvious at first glance with minimal understanding of the loads seen by the suspension. I don't know what is worse this rear design or the AZC front design. I've ranted on those before, suffice to say they have the same problem, 3 pivot points.

280zx calipers are the only ones I would use as they have larger piston area than the 240sx and Maxima. They are a pretty good match for stock fronts. With the early maxima bracket they are bolt on and are aligned correctly. They feel great with the stock master cylinder. I've been running the 280zx rear setup for 10 years now, and It's a good stock level setup. If the 12+8 calipers have more piston area than the stock Z calipers I would think it's going to be too much front bias. You'd be surprised how good properly setup stock brakes feel and perform, but the key is front to rear balance. Don't bother with uber large master cylinders, brake boosters or calipers as they are not needed unless road or track racing. The later front wheel drive maxima bracket is the one that is out of alignment, and needs proper machine work to get it done correctly. Why bother with all that hassle for a smaller piston?

Rear rotors and calipers + early maxima bracket is a bolt on rear disk conversion.

With a -25 offset the wheel will rub the stock fenders, I don't know for sure if rolling will fix that. Going from +10 to -25 is over an inch to the outside of the vehicle so really I doubt it. How did you come up with -25 offset wheels would fit? a +25 16x8 will rub the spring perch, unless the bottom of the spring perch is above the tire. Your inner tire will also rub on the inner fender lip, the one on the lower edge. To give you a better idea: +4 can be run in the rear, but requires spacers in the front, or you will rub coilovers. Anything more than + 10 and you will be rubbing front and rear on the coilovers. With +10 if you carry a 200lb load in the back compartment and have a 200 lb passenger you will rub the rear fenders every so often going over bumps. 16x8+10 with a 225-50 tire is just about maxed out on a stock fendered car. With that said, how much clearance will rolling give you? I've never rolled fenders before. Thanks.

To fit coilovers you need to cut off the old perches and weld on new at the right height. A 10" wide 0 offset will have about 25 to 30mm interference with 2.5" coil overs. If you were to put a 8" spring and be able to clear the tire, you still might be hitting the strut tube, Not to mention the reduced turning radius. If you want to start engineering, I suggest getting a tape measure and get under the car. With that said I have experience with a 225-50-16 on a + 10 offset wheel. Benefits of the 225-50-16 on an 8" wide +10 offset wheel: The biggest tire you can run under stock fenders. (but still need coil overs) Can run the same size front and rear with the same offset. It's the cheapest tire size available in the range of use for a Z car. It has the most selection of tires on the market today. (at least here in the US) It's the same diameter as the stock tires (24.9 to 25"), so the speedo is correctly calibrated. No spacers required (front or rear) Good sidewall height for use on rough roads In other words the 225-50-15 is a great tire for street use. If you are racing, there may be better choices. If you want wider and are flaring go for it, but for traction, stability and safety, fit the right size tire to the correct rim. 225's should be mounted on a 6 to 8" rim per most manufacturers. Mismatched rim/tire combo's don't support the sidewalls correctly, and traction goes DOWN. It boggles my mind why you spend so much money on mismatched tires/wheels, don't do it!. To fit a 10" rim, your wheel will need a lot of back spacking or spacers, something in the range of +35 to clear 2.5" coil overs, depending on your exact coil over kit and rim selected. Not to mention a minimum of 255 width tire.

The bosch 040 pump is an internal pump, from what i've read its the internal version of the 044. I've been wanting to do an internal pump on it for some time now.

Have you tried MSA, BHJ or rebello racing?

I'm looking for a turbo exhaust manifold and the T3 oil drain flange / adapter.

The other method is heating it with a torch or high output heat gun. The dry ice method is much cleaner. When done right the body takes no damage. If it does, your either hitting it too hard, or the floors need to be replaced anyway.

Lizard skin makes a sound control and thermal barrier, i've wanted to try their products, but have no experience with it. Anyone here used them? Their prep work seems to be straight forward, similar to paint. I agree with with mightymaxx on the rubberized products, they don't seal as well as they should. Plus the asphalt coatings melt off if you ever have to use degreaser on it.

I wanted to add why a corroded coolant system is so hard on an engine. The heat generated in a combustion chamber needs to flow through the metal into the coolant, then from the coolant into the radiator, then from the radiator into the air. There are 3 heat exchanges going on. When your car is overheating, and you have sufficient airflow through the radiator, and your water pump & thermostat is working then the temp your engine is running at is actually higher than what the coolant is. The reason for this is the corrosion that prevents heat transfer is on the inside of the engine as well as the radiator. So if your coolant is running 50* higher than you expect, it's safe to assume the temps your engine is running at is 100* higher. If the heat cannot get from the engine into the coolant there will be a significant temperature difference. I don't know if the temp difference is a 1:1 ratio or not. I suppose it's dependent on how bad it is and if it's rust or minerals, regardless it IS something, and I would bet it's close to the 1:1 ratio. In other words if coolant temp is 50* hot then your engine is actually 50* over coolant temp. A engine overheating due to a corroded coolant system is far worse than an engine overheating due to insufficient air flow through the radiator. If you wanted to measure how much of a difference this is making, it could be done via a cylinder head temp sensor if your car is equipped. I've never checked it, but with a new ecu and the ability to log it, i think I might do that one of these years... Make sense?

I'm quite sure the series 4 designation is my own fabrication, as is series 5 and 6. (late 260 and 280z respectively). My apologies to anyone searching for series 4 information. I should not post such rubbish without clarification of it being a figment of my imagination. I'm not being sarcastic, as I know how frustrating it is to search using the wrong terminology. Changes i'm aware of in 73 are new trans mounts, different brake booster mounts, electrical system, & heater controls. I am aware of these because over the years i've learned the hard way by dragging home "240z" parts from the junkyard for my 72, and finding they are not quite what I wanted. If I had Tony's knowledge of Z's back in the 90's, I would have made far fewer trips to the junkyard.

Courtesy Nissan or your local dealer should have these: 12309-V0800 Crank snout bolt - 16x1.5x45mm 12309-21000 Crank snout bolt - 16x1.5x30mm 12308-65000 Crank Snout washer for use with 12308-21000 12308-V0700 Crank Snout washer for use with 12309-V0800 Measure your stock unit first, and confirm the part number specs before buying.

I have experience with Datsun parts by helping another individual fix his car. He bought a cylinder head and carbs from him. The head was incorrectly machined, and the carbs were mismatched to the manifolds they were on. The heat shield was also sandwiched between the carb spacer and the manifold causing a massive vacuum leak. Based on my experience Datsun parts llc is to be avoided.

Considering the budget I would go with new stock springs, struts and a good set of wheels/tires for suspension. You don't need anything from T3 or any other vendor unless you want to lower it. To safely lower our cars more than about 1 " requires the struts to be sectioned. To section the struts you will need coilovers and shorter struts. Since you want to lower it, and it needs everything now, it makes sense to do a coilover kit. After buying the coilover kit you will still need struts and bushings, plus the other dozen things you will find as you tear it apart. Expect up to 2k depending on strut choice and what else needs to be done immediately. As far as motor upgrades, if you go standalone, you can address FI and ignition with one upgrade, as well as prep the car for any down the road upgrades. These old cars need head work and intake manifolds to make good power. On your budget I think those are out of reach. Make good choices early on, as they say, buy cheap, buy twice. If you want to go turbo, the cheapest initial route is L28ET. If you go with an RB, then you will need to modify the cooling system, build/buy mounts, Driveshaft, intake ducting, exhaust system and wiring. From the RB swap that I helped a buddy on, the engine was less than half of the total cost, and that included the RB 25 trans.

You could be dealing with 3 different "tunnels". 1. early 240z has a trans mount where the bolts secure to the tunnel vertically. I think this is series 1, 2, & 3 (up to 72). 2. Later 240z 73 has the 280z trans mount. This is series 4. 3. Sometime in 74 the 260 started being built with the 280 chassis, which I believe has the bulge in the tunnel to accommodate the cat. There is a thread in the S30 section or s30 FAQ's documenting the differences in each chassis. Search for it. Edited my reference to S29's in the last line to S30's. Scratching my head how I did that one.

"Now what?" What do you want to do with the car? Street, auto-x, drag, or class racing? What is your budget? You going to turbo or stay N/A? In my opinion, I think a good move is to take the car back to fuel injection, but a modern programmable system. Before going that far, I would give the electrical system a good going over. Typically people who don't like fuel injection, don't like wires in general and like to hack and slash electrical systems because they clearly know better than the factory engineers. From the description it sounds like there are a few good bolt on parts on there already. I'd focus on reliability, and basic maintenance. Once you get the basics addressed, then proceed with a plan. Is it possible to do without sectioning the struts and welding? Yes, coilovers are independent of sectioning. I am currently running beta motorsports upper and lower spring perches with 12" hypercoils I bought used for 60 bucks. Would tokico be a better option? There are other vendors that offer more variety. Ground control and tokico are kits offered by specific manufacturers. Check out Techno Toy Tuning(T3), they offer a pretty good coilover kit that allows you to run your choice of strut. T3 is not the only choice, you can piece a system together for less, but some sacrafice in time in getting the package together. "Would these ignition upgrades help me to get more power out of the motor?" Recurving ignition will net you some power from stock. A stock distributor can be recurved, do you know what parts are inside your distributor? How much total advance, static advance, and vacuum advance is there currently? Do you know where the mechanical advance is all in at? You have a lot of reading to do. I suggest taking a few months of as much spare time you can muster and just read on the most pressing issues on your car. Make the big decisions early, so you don't end up upgrading the same part of the car 3 or 4 times.

You run each cleaner for the time specified on the label of the product. From memory: the 1st cleaner you run for so many miles. Let the engine cool then do the garden hose flush. The evapo rust you leave in for a couple of hours at full operating temp. The last flush you run for around 15 minutes. Basically follow the directions on the labels of each cleaning product. When flushing I drain it right after i shut it off, then let it cool, and fill it back up with whatever the next step calls for. Don't add cold water to a hot and empty engine. In all of this each time I drain the system, I catch the liquid in a drain pan and take note of the debris coming out. The evapo rust I reuse, so I will filter it and run it again if I think the system is still contaminated. The evapo rust if it's not fully neturalized by running it through the engine will continue to work for a week or so. The other cleaners are done for after the time on the labels, I still catch the product, but mostly to analyze what's coming out. At each step if im not comfortable with what is coming out, or I think the system is still dirty, i'll redo the step. Don't get too engrossed in the details, the goal here is to just remove any sledge, corrosion. minerals and any acidic conditions that will cause further problems. The steps provided are a fairly robust way of doing that. Take a good look at the system after each step to determine your next steps. You might get away with just the first step, or you might have to repeat each step multiple times. It all depends on how bad your system is.

Depends on the shop, but most shops I would not trust to understand what's going on inside. It will be labor intensive. Either invest the time and a few dollars doing it yourself, or a lot of money to have someone else do it. If you decide to do it yourself, have the shop drain the coolant from the entire system. All the chemicals used are environmentally safe, so disposal is easy. The cleaners to do this are less that 50$, but the labor should be in the ball park of 3-400 if the shop intends to do a good job an still make a bit of money. A few weeks will not permanently hurt the radiator. Once it goes through the cleaning cycles it will be fine. It's not rocket science, just basic chemistry.

Clearly the problem is it's not 4 foot flames. We need the obligatory rev video, complete with the toe shot. Wear sandals. My keen sense of the obvious is its running rich. What sensors on the JWT ecu are used to determine injector pulse width? Start there. Since the JWT ecu is a recalibrated stock ECU I assume it is still looking at the same sensors. I would check the AFM, CHTS and all grounds. From there I start wiggling wire looms, checking fuel pressure, checking for vacuum or exhaust leaks. In other words, the basics, guided by a bit of knowledge of the shortcomings of these cars. The ECU and grounds on these cars are a very common problem. The last thing I do is spend coin on parts. Replace/repair what's broken, nothing more.