rejracer

To adjust valves (non-Hydraulic) you only need standard wrenches. If I recall the sizes needed are 17 and 14mm. I'm not sure if this applies to removing the hydraulic units.

The body and paint are not complete or in good shape. I would pass for that price. A complete non-running car I would pay no more than 500 bucks, assuming I KNOW what is wrong. A running car in that condition I would pay no more than a 800 to 1000 depending on the interior. Think of it this way, it costs more in gasoline to haul one of these old L motors to the scrapyard than the money you get from the metal. Why someone would want 800 for a broken engine is beyond me. Edit: looking at the pics again, I say the figures above are high! I'd offer 200 bucks for the chassis, and he pulls the engine, or 400 and you take the lot.

When I changed oil it took a few months for it to go away, but the trend was less and less frequent. Concerning the Zinc, The VR1 has more than Rotella T, but less of the clleaners. AutoRX is not compatible with synthetic oils, so it may not be compatible with a Turbo application.

Some new stereo's have a reset button which is capable of setting the unit back to factory. I know some of them need power loss for much more than 20 minutes.

Those brake parts are not matched to each other, and I would not use them. The bracket you showed about a minute into the video are the later FWD maxima brackets. They must be modified to fit on the S30 by enlarging the center hole and thinning the tabs where the calipers mount. Another way to do the conversion is to use the RWD maxima bracket and 82-83 280zx rotor and caliper. This way is bolt on, no machine work necessary.

I wanted to add that ATF does not have as much detergents as modern motor oils. This was true back in the 60's and 70's, but newer oils have improved much to prevent sledging. There is a website called bob is the oil guy, which helps filter through what's what in the oil world. I used Rotella T because it has ZDDP (zinc). I don't know what kind of a cleaning properties it has. The 0w30 Castrol that is made in Germany has one of the best cleaning packages in it. But it's only the 0w30 that is made in Germany. The castrol also does not have ZDDP which will wipe out camshafts. All other weights of the same brand are not the same oil. BMW and Volkswagen synthetic oils have very good oil cleaning packages in them, but they do not have ZDDP, thus I add it to the mix. To me it's the best of both worlds. if your into oil system cleaners there is AUTO RX and a product called kreen, it's made by the same people that make kroil. Google them if the ATF or oil changes don't do the trick.

Find the GM/Delco part numbers of the sensors you are interested in and then go to Rock auto to look up what vehicles it's listed under. Then go armed with that list to the yards.

I had the same problem. I fixed it by changing the oil with Rotella T. next oil change I'm going to use castrol syntec 0-w30 with ZDDP additive. The 0-w30 syntec is made in germany and it has more cleaning additives than the other weights.

In my experience the threads getting fouled up is typically caused by not sealing, try putting a torque wrench on them to check to see if they are tight enough. I find it hard to read plugs after too many miles as there is too much cruising, cold starts, and short trips to tell me what I need to know for mixture. Throw an engine with oil consumption and all they will tell you is your engine is worn out. The way I read plugs is to start with clean plugs, run it at full temp and WOT and shut it down ASAP. Pull the plugs and read. What are your compression numbers? When replacing the head gasket did you notice any oil in #2&6 intake? Could be as simple as inlet valve seals letting go.

M6 x 1.0 Class 10.9. The studs in the water pump can be removed. When getting new nuts it's helpful to get them with 10mm hex vs 11mm. A lot of hardware store variety like to use the 11mm as it's very close to 7/16. Problem is it makes installation more difficult.

I don't know if that's a good comparison as both the front and rear calipers are different on those 2 cars. Also the 280zx booster is much more powerful than the 240z unit. I used to have the 280zx (15/16") MC in my 240 and I went back to the 7/8" master cylinder as I found the pedal to be too firm and not give as much braking control. The 240sx calipers have a smaller diameter piston compared to the 280zx. It does not sound like the problem you are facing is the difference in this piston diameter though. It appears that there is something fundamental wrong. When you say "do not work" can you be more explicit? How do you know that they are not being as effective as they should be? A good way to check is with a pyrometer for temp or the tried and true slam on the brakes and see how far apart the front and rears lock up. It sounds like there is still air in the MC itself. Those side ports on the MC are for bleeding it. Google Bench bleeding a MC.

Megasquirt will be far more complex than a stock system. These Stock L28ET systems are very simple. Go megasquirt if you want to tune, not if you want to get it to run. I like the swap it's better than carbs imo. The problems have been minimal, and those that do pop up are simple fixes.

L28ET is not as snappy or responsive as an L24. The compression ratio is 7.4, open chamber head, has a heavier crank, heavier flywheel, heavier pressure plate. It all adds up. Check the responsiveness at 3500 and up and it will be a different story. I connected all the sensors to their factory location. The biggest problem i have is intermittent connection to misc sensors due to worn contacts. Sometimes it's an injector and sometimes its the throttle switch.

A friend of mine bought a set of 3 screw SU's from Datsunparts and he had been trying to get them running for quite some time. He asked me to take a look at them. At first I did not suspect the carbs as they were "new". It had broken hoses and the lower fuel bowl lines were cracked, but still nothing added up. I started looking into ignition and found it was off for the amount of advance in the distributor, but it was not enough to cause the problem. The car still was running very bad and nothing added up. Running out of daylight we called it an evening. For the next week I thought about the symptoms and everything pointing to a massive vacuum leak. So I came equipped with a can of ether to find the problem. Before I started spraying, I found the problem with a good visual inspection. The problem was obvious. Datsunparts shipped the carb and manifold set out assembled. They had the wrong heat shield on and it interfered with the carb spacers. Instead of taking the time to check fitment they shipped it out with the heat shield inbetween the carb spacer and the manifold. So at least I found the 2 massive vacuum leaks. To add insult to injury the carbs needed new fuel bowl lines, they had very few miles on it, like less than 100 or so. His experience has been not good with this vendor. Based on this experience and what others are reporting, I would say avoid!

The fuel damper is not required to run, but it's a good idea regardless. All a damper does is smooth out the fuel pressure from the slight pulses from the pump. In my experience the AFM not being connected causes symptoms like this. I would pull the AFM plug to ensure all the pins are intact and check all grounds. Check the basics, compression, fuel pressure, ignition. With the wet plugs it appears to be either the AFM, fuel pressure, CHT. Also clean the ECU pins.

SU's run terrible in cold weather without heat from the coolant lines. Regardless if that is not an issue, I've had mine plugged off using a NPT plug, but I re-tapped the hole to do so. If you don't have the appropriate size tap, then do as Ray and Leon suggest.

Ive used 12r (dura cool) and it works better than anything else. The only downside to it is it's flammable.

Confuse things? No. Set the timing to match the ECU unless there have been significant changes to the engine over stock. The marks are BTDC. I suggest this thread get moved to the shed.

The timing on the L28ET has different values based on the year. 1981 turbo supplement has the following on page MA-20: 20* +-3* @650 rpm +-50 in drive for automatic transmission. 1981 did not have MT as an option. The 1982 service manual has the following for ignition timing on page MA-40 20* +-3* @700 rpm +-50 in neutral for manual transmission. 20* +-3* @650 rpm +-50 in drive for automatic transmission. The 1983 service manual has the following for ignition timingon page MA-46: 24* +-3* @700 rpm +-50 in neutral for manual transmission. 24* +-3* @650 rpm +-50 in drive for automatic transmission. Timing is checked on the 83 with TPS plugged in. Procedure is in EF&EC-47. "Adjust ignition timing by turning distributor after loosening bolt which secures distributor". That's all the FSM states on the matter. 82-83 L28ET is possibly the easiest engine **In the world** to set the timing on.

I have a mostly stock 94 impala, and I am running dual flowmaster delta 70s. I like the sound, it's very mellow yet still makes some noise when your on it. I think it's close to the perfect street muffler. The system is a dual 2.25" with an H pipe and stock cats.

Kaito/Newzed, thanks for keeping this on the straight and narrow. I totally missed that the rebuilt trans was a T5. My list is for swapping the N/A 300zx box. The above does not apply in this situation. And yes, one tab on the trans means 81-83. Check here for a visual.. I agree it does not matter aside from ratio's. With that said, I think this is just a bell housing and driveline swap! Actually there is a bit more.... The bell housing on the 300zxt t5 is removable and there is no modifications that needs to be done to the internals. Since the 280zx chassis originally came with a T5, it's just a matter of getting the right bits that go in between the trans and car. I come up with bell housing, trans mount, driveline, pinion flange and shift boot. Based on what I now understand the new list should be as follows:' 1. Swap 280zx T5 bell housing (must be off a 280zx T5 turbo trans, the one you currently have will not work) 2. Source 280zxt trans mount (if different than N/A) I honestly don't know if it is. 3. Source Turbo driveline (output splines are different so can't use N/A) I don't know if the 280zxt and 300zxt drivelines are different length or not. 4. Source 280zx Turbo or 300zx Pinion flange. (280zxt diff flange is different than 280zx N/A and 300zx.) Just match the pinion flange to the Driveline. 5. You will need the T5 shifter. 6. Might need a different lower shift boot, might not though. I don't recall if they are different between the 280zxt and NA cars or not. If you get the above parts I think this is a bolt in affair. I am assuming your 280zx has an R200 in it, I believe the pinion flange splines are a different count between R180 and R200. Just beware and find out in advance if the measurements of the two transmissions are the same. If the transmission itself is physically the same it's bolt in. That's all I can think of. Hope it helps.

First off the transmission in the pics is an 81 to 83 NA zx. You can swap the z31 transmission by changing out the front case/bell housing. You will need to do some machine work on the bell housing to get it to fit together. 1. Enlarge lower bearing hole to fit a 62mm bearing. 2. Face cut bell housing to clear thicker counter shaft gear 3. drill the 1-2 shift rod hole to 16mm. 4. Machine 280zx front cover to accept larger bearing or source one from a KA trans. VG wont work as clutch pivot is in the wrong position. 5. Fabricate rear mount (you are in uncharted territory here as far as I know). 6. Source a shortened driveshaft. Since the 280zx shaft is not rebuildable, I would have a custom shaft made. 7. figure out how to seal up the shifter do a search on FS5w71C swap, KA swap and RB20 trans swap. Most are relating to an S30, so your on your own for shift boot, trans mount and driveshaft. happy engineering!

Try cleaning the ECU pins and connectors on the existing ECU.

I would pull the injectors and check to see if they are clogged. The chances of 3 injectors failing at once is slim. As posted before, I would start with electrical. I can 2nd that the injectors are fed power in banks.

I have the act clutch and it needed to be balanced new out of the box. I took my flywheel and PP to the machine shop and had them first balance the flywheel, and then mount the pressure plate and balance it mounted to the flywheel.