rejracer

Xnke, I've analyzed gear ratio's on this spreadsheet I created. I use it for evaluating crusing speeds, rpms and mph. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ato3KCDX86aedFBpTkI0X0o5R2pQaHlrQzgzbGVrQXc&authkey=CPTj89IN&authkey=CPTj89IN#gid=0 Let me know if you need help help with it.

Duragg, WRCBonk went through the same thing with the fans. He started with 2 aftermarket pusher fans, then during an RB conversion went to the big taurus 2 speed fan. I was perusing the local man-mall one day and found the 3.0 liter fords have 2 smaller cooling fans that are a tad bit lower profile. He ended up making a custom shroud and fitting 2 of the smaller 13" 3.0L ford fans and it's been cooling good since. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/101003-rb-taurus-fans/ It's worth a read.

Try tapping on the top of the float bowl with the handle of a screw driver. It might jar the float/needle loose. If the inside is mucked up, it's worth tearing them apart as Pete suggests above.

Stainless steel has better high temp properties as it resists rust due to the chromium and nickel in the steel. There are different grades of stainless of course, but in the hardware store you are most likely going to come across 18-8 or the metric equivalent A-2 which means 18% chromium and 8% nickel. These alloys are weaker due to the lower carbon content, but is usually offset due to the corrosion resistant nature of the alloy. Stainless is known to be brittle, which makes it a bad choice for high strength applicaitons, but I don't consider hanging a turbo to be high strenght and should do fine. Now I have a question, what size spacer is used t in stall the T04E 50 trim compressor?

I changed my oil last monday to the 0w-30 castrol syntec and added zddp. It now makes a tapping noise when fully hot and I let it idle for over a minute. as soon as I rev up to 1500 rpm it goes away. I think it's an oil pressure issue. I think I'm going to swap out my pump for the larger turbo automatic oil pump and increase the orifice size to the cylinder head. To me it seems that the oil pressure is just slightly low at low RPM. To my understanding if a hydraulic lifter/pivot pumps up with RPM/pressure, it's working fine.

Only use the poly bushing on the brake load bearing side (front on a 280zx) and leave the other stock. The poly bushings are too stiff to be used on both sides.

"Where does that leave guys like us? *sighs*" With an eyesore of a car that does not run, sitting in the garage/field rotting and losing further value. I did not really think there was much of a disagreement either. Some people can put in an engine for very little. I am one of those people. I put a turbo engine in my 72, but I parted out the doner to pay for it. I think I actually made about 200 bucks on the deal after the part out. But man was it a LOT of work, and that was just getting the 280zx torn down. The reason I posted what I did is the OP was asking about profit and V8 Swaps. If someone needs to ask that question, it indicates they don't have a lot of experience with these cars or swaps. That being the case I feel it would be misleading him to lead him on saying there's money to be made. As far as what I posted, I still think it's accurate for the average guy. Key concepts from the original post: 240z (no engine/trans). needs rust work needs paint needs interior financially smart for a resale. best turn around profit. There is nothing in the above that indicates when running it will bring a 5k+ sale price. A rusty, incomplete, faded, but running Z in my neck of the woods brings about 500 to 1000 bucks. Sure there are a few suckers that may pay more, but my fellow Z enthusiast, 500 tops. If it does not run, or is sitting in a field then 200 max, and that's only if it has something on it one of us wants. There's just too much risk with the illustrious barn car to contemplate a higher price. If these cars brought higher prices then I would be willing to pay more, but when you add up the costs There's no way I would pay more. If one endeavors to fix the above then you are in restoration mode, and no way a restoration it going to happen for less than 10k. There's just too much worn out/missing/damaged stuff on a 40 year old yard car to even contemplate a profit motivated restoration. Yes you can put an engine in it and make a quick profit. That's why I listed it, but I don't think a person will make as much as selling it outright or parting it out. I do however reserve the right to be completely and utterly wrong, and hope the OP can make a bit of cash without sticking it to the next guy. "It is naught, it is naught, said the buyer: but when he is gone his way, then he boasts." ***Reality sets in at point of sale***

I have one available. It has a chip where a locating lug used to be. I think it will seal. Just pay shipping, i'll send flat rate so cost should be around 13.00$. Edit: shipping is 13.00. paypal to rejracer@gmail.com. It's boxed and ready to go.

If profit i the motive then here are your options: 1. put in a stock z engine(next to free in price) and sell immediately. 2. Sell it now, as is. 3. Part it out. Order is from least to most profit. There is no profit to be made in any engine swap in my opinion. These cars do not have a high enough resale value to make profit.

If Ztherapy said the carbs are good, then I would trust that, so i'd hold off on checking the float levels. Check fuel pressure running, as I recall it should be between 2.5 and 3.5 psi. Confirm that number in your FSM. What you are describing with the choke indicates a vacuum leak. What you are describing with the idle screws indicates a vacuum leak. If it were me, I'd look very close for a vacuum leak. Use starting fluid to help track it down, cap things off like the brake booster, pcv and any other port. Check around the head to manifold, balance bar, manifold to carb spacer, carb spacer to carb. I would also do a basic tune up. Adjust the valves, gap the plugs, re-check the timing/dwell, and plumb the manifold with coolant, these carbs run like garbage without heat. I've never worked on one of these cars and not been able to get it to run the best of it's ability without about 2 hrs when I follow what is written above.

The valves grow quite a bit with heat. That means .010 of valve clearance ends up being something like .004 at wot. When you start swapping out valve train components (specifically valves of a different material) the static valve lash may need to be changed depending on what's more important, power or long service intervals. Since there is some leeway you could reduce the spec a little, but you will need to check them more frequently. Sometimes the valves stretch, seats wear and things end up getting tighter. The amount the valves grow depends on EGT's, RPM's, Valve material, Seat material, and the day of the week. In other words, if you start changing valve lash it's advised to know what the consequences of this are before adjusting. If you want to put this to the test, adjust your exhaust valves to .000 clearance, then start it up. It will run great, for about 30 seconds, then stall out due to loss of compression. Let it cool for a few minutes and it starts back up.

Ive been in similar situations in the past. I've also confirmed the old adage is true: Buy cheap, buy twice! The quality on the unit you posted looks good from the picture. The only way I see getting the functionality you get with the unit you posted is to buy cheaper, but in my experience the cheaper tools require dis-assembly, cleaning and proper lube upon purchase, and even then they never work as well. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/9196526982633331892?q=mill%20vice&hl=en&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.43148975,d.aWc&biw=1333&bih=892&sa=X&ei=X1o1UfXYGbOFyQHE5oDIAQ&ved=0CH0Q8wIwBDgU Put a price on your time and frustration, especially knowing that quality tools do not lose value like cheap tools.

If you have the head off, the maxima N47 will have a closed chamber versus an open chamber of the 280z N47. What NewZed wrote is also true.

I use auto resetting circuit breakers in my power distribution block. General consensus is you should not use auto-resetting, but yours are manual resetting so I think you are fine. I mounted my circuit breakers in the engine bay. I must ask, why are you putting all your electrical controls on the center console? Don't like the factory switches? Building a racecar?

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. I would not be terribly concerned about the compression numbers until it's broken in, although they are lower than expected. Cam grind should not matter assuming it's timed correctly. Plug wires installed correct? 153624 is firing order. What is your fuel pressure? Have you checked the float levels? What is your vacuum at 1300rpm? What does happens to vacuum at lower RPM? What happens to vacuum when you pull the choke off?

The 280zx rear caliper has a larger bore than the Maxima. If you notice the 240z has a larger diameter rotor than either the maxima or 280z. The 240z and maxima have the same bore of FRONT caliper. This means that even though they have roughly the same clamping force from the calipers, the 240z has more braking effort due to the larger rotor. If you are shooting for a balanced rear setup you would need to either enlarge the rear disk diameter or go with a larger piston in the caliper. Below are the stats for 240z/280zx/Maxima. 280zx rear bore size: 1.69". Rear rotor diameter is 10.15" Maxima rear bore size is 1.5". Rear rotor diameter is 10.15" 240 front 2.12" 10.67" 280zx front 2.38" 9.92" Maxima front 2.12. 9.83" I am currently running a stock master cylinder, stock fronts and 280zx rotor/caliper with maxima bracket. My brakes feel great. The reason for me upgrading at the time was aluminum rotors were not available, and some of the hardware was becoming scarce. Also the discs give more consistent brake force compared to a drum. I don't know why people look to the maxima or 240sx calipers, aside from they can. The calipers are simply too small to balance with stock front brakes. I had the fronts upgraded to the large 4x4 calipers, and I pulled them off. They were way too big in my opinion.

Did you check the basics? Cam timing, Valve lash, Ignition timing, vacuum leaks. Do you have the coolant pipes connected to the manifold? What are your compression numbers?

In the Engine bay I recommend SXL. Under the dash you can get away with TXL or even PCV insulated wire. I personally use SXL on everything. For relay control you can use 18ga. harnesses add weight, so if you are ok with x lbs more weight when you are done, using a heavier guage wire is ok. However if it were me, I would do things a bit different. Low current control circuits 18ga.(guages, interior lighting) med current lighting 14ga (parking lights, wipers, cig outlets) High current circuits 10ga. (headlights, fans, fuel pumps, amps) Power distribution 2 or 4 ga. (alternator, starter, battery, fuseblocks)

For a series 1 conversion to R200 you need the following: 1. R200 diff 2. Mustache bar. 3. Rear transverse link (curved style). 4. Longer drivehaft That's it! You don't need: The front transverse link (the part the diff isolator mounts to.). It might be a good idea to get it as it's thicker metal and has a larger diameter cutout for exhaust. The rear vertical supports shown behind the diff in the pics above. Tony is right about the location being key. Tony also lives in So cal and I am in Norcal. Prices are even cheaper up here vs down there. I get a lot of parts cheap in opportunistic mode. I create a list of what I want and plug in the details into a craigslist crawler. You'd be surprised how many people have things priced at "come get it out of my garage". And then there are others that want top dollar for parts that are scrap. Be reasonable, its far more important to have fellow enthusiasts than people who get out of the game because of the inconsiderate transactions.

I'd have to say it's a cultural thing that shows in the type of motorsport popular in a local. In USA there are 2 prominent motorsports, NASCAR and drag racing. In comparison to the UK, the yanks have very little interest in the way of touring car racing. We also have much less interest in F1 racing. The types of cars in our mass televised events use domestic V8s. Any knowledgeable modder knows there is a race mentality that plagues the public when buying cars & parts. The old neck car racers had the saying, win on Sunday, sell on Monday. Many of them also owned dealerships as well. This bigger is better mentality is great for top dollar racing, but is an enemy of the average street modder. So why are our S30's so cheap? Overshadowed press coverage of the american V8 scene. Lack of aftermarket (thus vendor) support while the cars were new. Overall industry ignorance and interest of the OHV engine capabilites. Would any of us be driving these cars if we could only have stock drive trains? If it's not american V8 then it's a niche market, and cult followings. In other words, it's not mainstream. As for me personally, I always liked the cars, I was not crazy about them though. I happened to have one offered to me at a good price at the right time. Over the years I started to like the car more and more due to it's reliability. It was not until cheap turbo swaps became available did this chassis really become a draw for me. I signed up for hybrid z somewhere around 2003, and with the info I learned it made sense to keep the chassis vs invest in a new platform. Without Hybridz I would have sold the car years ago. Now here's the hitch with car values, most modders don't want to get into all the tech details to get it right. The mainstream market is a bolt on market. if you want 250 hp from your Z, it's not bolt on.

Here are the going rates in CA Pick n pull. mustach bar 30 Stub axles + companion flanges: 50 Diff& rear cover 75 Transverse link: 5.00 Driveshaft: 30 Private party prices can be significantly higher or lower. If the diff is in good shape, your not overpaying.

I too buy the dual post batteries, but use only the front. I don't like the large batteries either. I use the right diameter heater hose for the positive and negative terminals. On our cars in stock configuration if the positive terminal comes in contact with the body it turns the entire chassis to 12v. This will burn just about every ground wire under the dash and in the engine bay. I would check under the dash for signs of burnt wires. If you find it, replace as necessary. Since you have an L28 ET and it's running on 3 cylinders, check the injector feed circuits. Pull the ECU connector and inspect for burnt wires in the loom, and add a dedicated ground which taps into the existing ground circuits.

Many of the high mile motors i've seen have cam wear. Based on that I opted to use it. The problem is most pronounced with lower quality regrind cams during break in. I'm just basing this on reports from what others have experienced, so I would not consider myself an expert. If oil companies have changed oils to compensate, then what is it they have done? I'm not biased either way, just looking for supporting evidence.

A bolt on solution is the following: RWD maxima brackets 82-83 280zx Rotor 82-83 280zx Caliper. The only difficult part is finding the RWD maxima brackets, just search the yards and be prepared to pull a stub axle.

I ended up making a lower mount based on Nigels method. I did not help or hurt the mounting either way. For the larger case CS144 the lower mount needs to be lowered and moved outwards. The alternator still do not have as much adjustment as I would like. I'd say it's a wash either way for the mounts. Nigels method is a bit cleaner but requires more work up front. I think the brackets I used initially were a bit stronger. I'll probably stick to the simpler Nigel style mount.