rejracer

Hi all, I wanted to get some feedback on rev happy flywheel / clutch combination's. I am slowly building a turbo L series. The final build is going to be approx 8.25 cr, stroker, limited to 300 hp on pump gas, and MAX 400hp with water/meth injection with race gas. Final build will also use aftermarket EFI. The goal of the final build is to be fun, responsive, streetable and stone cold reliable. I am not going for all out hp/torque. Also my definition of street is not a race car that I drive on the street, but one that is easy to drive, is stone cold reliable, not tempermental, and one that will not be inspected head to toe every 1k miles. I have looked into several options for the flywheel, and these are the options I have come up with so far: 1. factory flywheels from 240z or a Maxima -Cheap -a few lbs lighter than 280z / turbo flywheel -minimal gain 2. any factory unit lightened. -cheap -lighter than 240/maxima flywheel -questionable strength with radical amounts of material being taken off. -marginal gains. 3. Fidanza Steel flywheel http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/fz-243281 -cheapest of the steel flywheels -Weighs just about as much as stock (per fidanza application guide) -replaceable friction surface 4. Arizona Z Car steel flywheel http://www.arizonazcar.com/fly.html -more expensive than the fidanza. -No replaceable friction surface -pressed on ring gear -11.75 lbs 5. Kameari flywheels -more expensive than most flywheels -no replaceable friction surface -ring gear appears to be from the same slab of steel as the rest of the flywheel -10.5 or 9.5 lbs depending on street/race configurations 6. Tilton or other fully custom units. -lightest possible -more expensive than the Kameari/act combo -lots of combinations available. Now this is a street car, and based on that I think it eliminates the tilton unit. The reason being is I want to be able to go into any parts store and buy a clutch disk that would be compatible with the flywheel/pressure plate. But I am not opposed to it if it means increased longevity and reliability. After all we buy craftsman tools so we can take them back, snap-on so we don't have to, same principle applies. Since the build is going to use a low compression ratio, I don't think a lot of inertia is in order, as would be for a high compression n/a build. Plus since I have decided to use a stock style clutch (I picked up an ACT 225mm extreme pressure plate and 6 puck sprung disk) I have quite a bit of inertia on the setup already. What is important to me -reliability/service life -smoothness -maintenance free -rev-happy-ness Keep in mind, stock already has the first three... so does this make rev happy #1? With the above information, I have some fairly specific questions: 1. The Kameri Race flywheel: are they reliable enough for street use? 2. Would you be comfortable installing either kameari (race or street) and not inspecting it for 100k miles? 3. Do the Kameai's use a press on ring gear, or is the entire unit from one slab of steel? 4. What other clutch types are available? As of now, I am leaning towards the Kameri race flywheel, and the Act 225mm unit. One selling point for ACT is the readily available information on the units, from one site I could find and compare all the available combinations (3 pressure plates and 6 different disks) and top quality parts (NSK bearings) to boot. Any input meeting the goals is appreciated.

Jelmer, did you properly connect the harness to the coil? Get a timing light on it and have someone help you crank it, or just leave it on the on position, and use a remote starter switch while you check the timing. On my L24 point system what I found was that I was only getting voltage to the coil in the "on" position. While cranking there was no voltage to the coil. I had to connect both original + leads to the coil to get the system to spark while in both Run and Start. This was for a 72 240z. I am not sure if the patrol is the same wiring or not, especially since it's an 84. In a nutshell: ensure you have voltage to the coil in both start and crank, and then check the spark output by pulling the lead at the coil and holding the lead approx 15mm from the coil secondary connection, and if good, check the timing. When in doubt concerning the wiring, use jumper wires to ensure you have voltage to the coil and a ground to the dist. Josh, the old point systems ran a resistor inline, this reduced the voltage to the coil by about 6v with the key in the on position. This means that the old coil (assuming it's off a point system) will work for a short while on the new system, and then burn up. On point systems the coil gets a full 12v on startup only, via another wire. In the on position it's a 6v system. I don't know if the BMW coil will work.

reach underneath the carbs, and put your finger on the jet (the piece that the rubber fuel line goes into from the bowl) and push up. If it moves your jets are binding up from being dirty/worn no lube on them. They do this on my old SU's and makes the car run pig rich.

Pete, I was up in Oregon last October and stopped by Rusch Motorsports. When I was there I was showing Ron and Paul my idea for mounting the coils to the valve cover. But you beat me to actually implementing the idea. I saw your other thread, and that's actually what prompted me to post up my idea. The design I am working on will require no modifications to the valve cover, just some new fasteners. When I get around to getting some coils for taking measurements off of, I intend to make a new bracket that can mount LS1, LS2 or the Yukon coils. I think your idea is a very good, low cost solution. Making a bracket really racks up the cost, as I have more fastners plus the bracket. I had already planned on using a sealed connector to remove the whole assembly, I just have not found which connector I am going to use.

Paul, Very useful info, thank you. So I see there are many physical mounting differences in the coils. I actually got lucky and ordered the right ones for the bracket. I did not realize there were physical mounting differences. The part number of the coil I am mocking this up with is 12558693 (cast into the plastic shell of the coil) and is for what the ebay page described "2006 - 2000 GM SILVERADO 6.OL 5.3L 4.8L COILS (7) *OEM*" It appears that the yukon coils are the best from the comments I have read on them. I will look at picking up a set and checking what would need to be done to make a bracket for them. From the pictures they will be more difficult to design a bracket for as they are less symmetrical. The other idea I had on this project was to locate multiple mounting points so the installer has the choice of running the secondary lead in a vertical position or rotate it in either direction in 20* increments. This is what happens when I start playing with solidworks. Scope creep!

Daeron, that is my plan, when time allows. problem is I am making those cuts with a dremel tool, and it's not really up to the task. I have the 2 left hand side spark plug wire separator bosses welded in. I boogered it up pretty good with a mig welder and spool gun. I will file it down and report back. I tried mocking up the coil on plug bracket on the valve cover today. I was just trying to get it positioned so i could take some measurements. here's what it looks like: thinking with graphite.... Do I want it mounted high, or low??? Working on the spacing : Valve cover bolt access: I decided to drop it down a bit: So for an hour or so of bending coathanger and cutting styrofoam spacers I got a lot done. This is a bracket I picked up from Ron Tyler. The final version will have each coil rotated x degrees, and the brackets to mount it on the valve cover will be integral to the bracket, not separate pieces bolted on to Ron's. I'm working on the models now, getting measurements, and will buy material soon. My fabrication skills are nothing like Montzers, so basic materials will be used, and hopefully the final design will be buildable. The basic idea is to use the valve cover bolts as mount points for the bracket. The Spark plug wire boss on the right hand side will also be used. The lower mount points will not be fastened to the valve cover, rather they will sit on locating lugs. Only the top mount will utilize a fastener. With this design, it will be possible to remove the entire coil assembly with one nut. Each mount point will be isolated with a rubber grommet. I think it's a solid design, time will tell. I also want to play around with the LS2 coils, the coils I am mocking this up with are the truck coils. I have heard the LS2 coil is a wee bit more powerful, but time has not allowed me to confirm if it's true or not.

You need to measure the clearance on the ring lands to determine of the pistons are serviceable. There is no way we can tell from the pictures if the pistons are good. And as far as the carpet... carpet holds all sorts of dirt. dirt at the microscopic level is a bunch of broken up rock, and organic material. this fine abrasive material can muck up the works of any engine. Get the service manual, and look up the spec for ring land clearance, and go measure. The measurement will tell you if you want to use those pistons.

Roger, Thanks for the offer, The exhaust Manifold however, is fine on this car. The issue is that the pipes are cracked/rusted and the muffler has several holes in it. JSM, I am also contemplating upgrading my own clutch and giving her my old unit, which is in perfect condition, but 10 years old. I will think about it a bit more, and consider all the options which come along. This presents a new option, which is me buying a new unit I am looking for a lightweight steel flywheel, and an ACT clutch. I was going to go 225 mm. So if anyone has one of those for sale, let me know how much. Obviously this is not part of our little rebay experiment, so I wont cheap out on you, if you have one to offer. I (and Christie Ann) appreciate it.

I custom fit those wires, the did not come pre cut. I bought a spool of kv85 magnecor wire (25 feet) and the needed terminals and boots. concerning the lettering on the cover, I noticed the same when I am sanding the letters. I have not polished them out yet, but from the sanding the aluminum appears to be an inconsistent densitny when I get to the lower layers. It must be part of the casting process. I have a miller welder with a spool gun. I'll check to see what wire I have. I have tried welding aluminum with the spool gun, and lets just say my skills are not up to par. Do you think MIG is capable of creating a dense enough weld to fill those holes? I have some scrap laying around that I have practiced on, I suppose I will check it out as far as the polishing goes. Thanks for the input.

Depending on the finish of the material and it's shape determines the grit you use. For wheels which have a relativly smooth face finish, I would start with 220, or 320 on a orbital power sander. I would finish up with 600. Once it's sanded then I then continue with cutting rouge on a polishing wheel. After the initial cut polish you jump up to a "color" polish which really brings the luster or "color" of the metal out. A bench polisher is a worth while investment if you polish on a regular basis. You can pick them up for about 50 bucks at harbor freight. I would do the lip starting with 320 and finish up with 600 by hand. I am working on a valvecover right now, and I am going as low as 150 to really take the material down. I will though go through all the grits to get it up to 600 before I start the actual polishing process. Preparation is the key to beautiful polishing. If your wheels are really clean to start with you might just start with the 600 to clean them and try polishing with either the mothers (takes a long time) or a polishing wheel.

JSM, Thanks for the offer. I will need to check into it. do you know the brand of the clutch / pressure plate? Thank you, Robert

CKelly, Free is hard to pass up. Free is good, actually I am having trouble describing how good free is. Free is just sooooo.... Free! We accept! I'll PM you the shipping address and work out payment details. Shameless low down cheapness in action: Technically free does not qualify for the exclusive noobian burnout video. A small shipping subsidy could get you that video. Upgrade today! and no kitteh? thank you very much, she appreciates it! -Robert When she read this thread she was a bit mortified that we scanned boots. well here's another, titled, boot's boots.

I will add that the above catscanned cat "boots" was given to us by the girls family. Truly giving people! Now the irony in all of this is I had to go to a lot of trouble to catch the previously catscanned in their back yard. This is very similar in that she i going to go through much trouble to get the Z our of my backyard. What we won't do for a little love...

Greetings and Salutations! I have an 83 parts car here in Sacramento, CA. I was planning on pulling the trans for a swap, but I found another trans on the cheap. So now I am left with a 99.9% complete parts car. I also happen to have a friend in need of her first set of wheels. She is broke, in college, and working when she can. We are trying to get this parts car up and running for her, and we know we need the following parts. 1. clutch - 100 for kit (pressure Plate, disk, and throwout) 2. exhaust - needs everything from the manifold back. 200.00 new 3. Alternator - 48.79 4. Battery - 60.00 This is also an educational experience for her. I in this post am attempting to show her how to be incredibly, creatively, and stunningly cheap. Having fun at this is also part of the "lesson". I hope you get a few laughs out of this. So with that said, lets try an reverse auction here. Let's call this rebay. Here are the rules: This is intended to be fun for all. I have posted above what we can get the parts for from the likes of rock auto, and local discount places. What I want you guys to do is to "bid" on the parts you have for sale. Post your price for your good parts, but it must be below the price we can get the parts for. Parts "selling" for negative amounts will be allowed. (very generous of us, I must admit). Negative amounts could be used to offset other costs. (hey this is the internet you can ask for the world!) No it's not required, of course. As an added bonus, any folks who "sell" a part for a negative amount will receive exclusive footage of the neophytes first burnout attempts. She has never driven a manual in her life. We are looking for stock reliable parts with a bit of service life left. Nothing fancy. One's man's junk is another's treasure. The lowest bidder "wins". Shipping is to 95673, local pickup preferred. If you win, you get the following: 1. Junk, I mean parts out of your garage. 2. Satisfaction, knowing you are helping a young lass in need. Also be satisified that this is the closest thing to breaking the 4th hybrid z classified commandment (no auctions). This is better than Hybrid Z admins selling indulgences. This is almost as good as not searching. You deserve this! 3. Appreciation, as she truly appreciates "free" stuff on her meager income. 4. Laughs, knowing you outbid some sleezy internet parts hound trying to hoc his overpriced stuff to a maiden in distress. You sure showed him! Ohh yeah.. getting the 1 up on someone is (hopefully like the parts she will get out of this), PRICELESS. 5. Entertainment. The fact that your still reading this indicates your not selling parts for the money, have a good heart, or you have never seen such a unique idea so skillfully and modestly executed on hybrid z. This entertains you, and gives the desire to support the performing arts of cheapskatedness. Of course purposely selling parts for the lowest possible price could also indicate that you are a leading contributor to the shed, but I digress... 6. Education. Being resourceful is one of the keys to success. This very thread is teaching the feminine neophyte resourcefulness. In additiona you can show this to your children, and your children's children. Think of the money that can be saved, and all if you participate in this program. It's a win-win! 7. Praise. that's right. If you are the winner, I will post up an honorary post thanking you for your generous support. Your peers will admire you, your loved ones will cleave to you, and your cat will quit leaving prints on your Z. (please don't ship the cat) Come to think of it, my dad needs a cat as the neighbors dog killed our last one about 2 months ago. Air mail? 8. Redemption. Do you know how many S130's have been sacrificed as a result of Hybrid Z? You could save this one, just this one, from being parted out. Wouldn't that make you feel dandy, as well as save you from S130 part out perdition? Your soul will sleep better at night knowing that you saved an S130 instead of feasting on it's parted out carcass of cheap and serviceable parts. Actually that does not really make me feel better because I like cheap parts and feel good knowing I am running 3.90's in my 240, as well as a 5 speed, electronic ignition, zx rear brakes, (ouch a maxima too!!! ohh the horror!! is no one safe in this world!!) But we are banking on you not being as cruel and heartless as me, and will not burden you with anymore internal struggles. Thanks for reading -Robert PS. while we are asking for the world here....any shipped cats should be good mousers(don't want to feed it to, too cheap), male, affectionate and up to date on shots. Catscans will also be required to determine if aformentioned feline is desireable and aesthetically pleasing. Example Catscan: Getting the catscan was somewhat difficult as the feline wanted to bat at the scan bar as it went by. only by placing ample pressure on the shoulders and hip of the feline could we get the scan. After several attempts we gave up on the ADF unit, it simply would not work. PPS. If this ends up getting shedded, I at least ask that it gets stickied in the shed. I've worked too hard on this post to have it all for naught. Come to think of it, I wonder if this would get more traffic in the shed.... hrmm... There's more than one path to a solution.

Def not worth it for a daily driver. Cost of repair exceeds value of the vehicle. But it would make a good parts doner. 8 minutes is a very long time, as the picture suggests.check out the integrity of the sheet metal now. Fire usually makes it the have the integrity of copper from my experience. it just pulls the temper out of it.

TPS on turbo cars is a throttle position switch, not a sensor. It only tells the PCM when the throttle is in the closed (or close to it) position. The PCM then knows when to activate the the throttle control. If it's rain/moisture sensitive, check out the ignition secondary system. Start it up at night and when it's cold look for arching along the plug wires. You can also test with a spray mister to increase the humidity. Next I would look at all electrical connections and grounds, but we've covered that already.

Update: So the car over heats... 1. Installed the radiator fan shroud: did not fix cooling problem. 2. Flushed and reverse flushed radiator: Fixed problem until I drove it. 3. Inspected and radiator is plugged up with Rust Scale. 4. Flushed and reverse flushed radiator: Fixed problem until I drove it. 5. Inspected and radiator is plugged up with Rust Scale, AGAIN. ( I am beginning to see a pattern here) 6. Flushed and reverse flushed radiator: Use EVAPoRust in the cooling system. Cooling system problems solved. 1 treatment and all rust scale issues are gone. I recommend the product. When we drained the cooling system of the evaporust mixture we saved it and placed a pair of fencing pliers that we found in our back yard 30 years ago (literally). They had probably been underground for 40 years. they were rusted shut and no amount of force could open them. After a week in the mixture I tried to move them, and could get the slightest movement out of them. I continued to work them open and closed until they moved freely. I scrubbed them in the sink with a wire brush to get the black residue of the evaporust off and the things now feel like they are new. http://www.evapo-rust.com/ This stuff flat out works, it's not the fastest acting, but the results are great if you can leave it in for a while. I'm afraid if I use it on my 240z I will have a set of wheels and rubber lines left over when it's finished working. Evapo Z anyone? Water cooling neck was pitted so bad I bought a new one off of Ebay. Also got creative and polished the waterneck off of a spare head I had laying around. It's not installed yet. Any Idea where to source the mounting bolts in stainless? I am using the class 10.9 Zinc coated bolts for now. Local Ace hardware only has up to 65mm length. I need 70 or 75mm. I would like them in Allen button head to match the fasteners I am using up top. I am polishing another Valvecover as well. So I may have one of them up for sale. This one I am removing the "Nissan * OHC" lettering from the top of the cover and will paint the inlay areas. I am also trying to determine if I weld up the holes for the spark plug wire mounts and then sand flush, will the welded area polish out the same due to a different density/alloy of aluminum. Any ideas on that front? I am thinking of taking it to a welding shop an having them tig the holes so as to cause the material to melt and fill in the hole, and not actually use any filler material. is that doable, good idea/bad idea? Also sourced a cheap 81 5spd. Now I will be able to sell the NA parts car outright and not deal with the part out. I bought it for the trans. Must test the trans I bought first to make sure I don't need to pull the one in the NA car. If anyone is interested in an 83 NA parts car, let me know, and I'll put you on the list for when I am ready to get rid of it.

"They can be had for MUCH cheaper than the labor and parts cost of repairing one." -Very true! I just purchased a JY trans for 80 usd. But don't know what the internals are like.

I rebuilt a 79 trans with the help of the FSM and the proper tools. It's not terribly difficult.

I had to get a welding cart setup for my welder and was not pleased with what miller offered for the price. I went to my local Airgas and they happened to be closed, so I hit home depot, no luck, and thought I would try Harbor Freight. I was looking for something that I could store a least 2 bottles, spool gun, helmet and other gear. this is what I ended up with, partly because it was cheap, and also that it could store other "stuff" holds extra wire spools, spool gun, helmet, gloves, brushes and other essentials. pull the bottles from the top. guage visibility is not the best, but still workable. Tight fit. Cant read the settings very well, *ahem* that's why I bought the auto set model! I actually bought a 3 shelf unit, and may add the third shelf raised above the top shelf now. it will be shortened down to allow the bottles to be pulled in and out from the top. I have bought chain to hold the bottles in place, but have not installed it yet. I think I paid 42.00 for the cart after tax.

New magnecor wires installed. Fan clearance Upper hose clearance Mounting the OEM Wire holders

hrmm.....

PM sent

If you have one for sale, let me know -Robert

Jwheless, That's not a very good deal. You would be best buying an entire 280zxt parts car. The entire drive train will bolt in to your 70, assuming you get a mustache bar to mount the diff. I bought my 83 parts car with 124k miles for 500, and spent a few hundred tuning it up. Now if the deal you speak of came with a clutch and a trans, that might be a much better deal. my .02..