Jasonmreiss

I'm not sure about the sway bar thing, the jtr book talks about it lightening up the inside rear tire too much around turns. And the control thing was more about my wife driving the car than me. It'll have a lot of power and it'd get sideways in a hurry around corners with lsd. Don't ya think? Or am I not thinking 'straight' ?

I read in the v8 conversion book that removing the rear sway bar is a good thing. Also upgrading the front, and relocating some mounting points up front. I know everyone's setups change with how they're gonna drive so I'll fill you in I want a daily driver that handles very well but doesn't beat you up too bad on city streets. I want to keep the r200 the way it is, no lsd, just for control purposes. I may get a coil over kit, or section the struts. It's a 280z, and will have a 400+ horse 383 My question is, is going by the books recommendations the best way of doing it?

Cool thanks, I'm looking for a super clean look, I've removed all except the brake line brackets, so hopefully it'll look good

I have searched, AND I have the conversion book, but I can't seem to find out what all I can remove from the engine bay of a 280. I want as clean of a look as possible, not show car, but close. I'm putting in a carbeureted 383 chevy. Pics may help...thanks

I think so, there's a ton of stuff in it I won't need as I am also doing a resto mod, but there are great things in it like tips and tricks and things like how to do all the weather stripping, and also what parts can be found after market and what parts can't be found

Does anyone know if I should actually remove the undercoating? The z car restore book says if it's in decent shape, just to recoat over it. I know the floors are in good shape, and I really don't want to take it off cuz well......it's hard to do lol

Thanks that's perfect!! Metal would be better but I'm not too picky.

IMG]http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa454/Jason_Reiss/image-4.jpg[/img]

I finally got it all stripped. The drivers side floor was a nightmare. Dry ice, heat, chisel, wire wheel, ugh! But all done. Time for rotisserie and undercoating

That's almost exactly what I want, but it has the same problem as the silver one. I don't really like when the rear part of the flare doesn't meet the body. Is that a given with these type of flares? Or can it be done? Pics of molded flares with that done?

Thanks that exactly what I wanted. Now that I've seen different angles I'm not sure it's for me. Oh well I'll keep looking. There's a sick yellow one I'll try n find

I want to do molded in flares, just like the dark gray one with racing stripes. Sorry I cant post a pic of it right now, but I'm sure some of you know which one I'm talking about. I'm curious if that would be a metal or fg job? And also what body kit it is. If anyone knows the owner that would help as well. It had a '71' on the door in one pic Thanks

Not really, I know one of them is really dented, doesn't look like any bad rust spots though. I'm gonna need to do a lot of re-enforcement though as I'm planning on over 400 horse. Pics soon my phone died

None on the floor so far, there is just one cancer spot on the tail light mount. I'm pleasantly surprised. I'm gonna get some dry ice tomorrow for the drivers side and tunnel. What should I use for the undercoating? I've heard about some needle tool thing that works well. I need to build the rotisserie first though...and move the car. The wife won't go for having it here for that process lol

I got the sound deadening off the hatch area, and passenger floor today. No heat or dry ice, just a chisel. Boy is that hard work. So far zero rust )))))))))

The entire car is stripped, finally. Gonna start cleaning it tomorrow, then get it ready for the rotisserie that I don't have yet. I sure hope I can put it all back together. I'll post some more pics tomorrow. I've also been video ing the process

I am also going to run the vortec heads, I'm gonna make it a 383 though. I've heard the lt4 hot cam can be made to work. Beehive springs, special retainers and locks may be required though. I'm probably just going to have the heads machined though for a larger cam as I am shooting for over 400 horse

I got the motor/tranny out. Started cleaning up the engine bay. Then pulled all the wiring, kinda scary. It's almost completely stripped, I still have to get the sound deadening stuff off, then the undercoating. Then I can start on the body work. Hopefully have it painted by this summer

Not sure of specifics. I tried to start it, it turned over good but no fire. I'd assume the injectors are clogged since it's sat for a few years. Not sure about the tranny, what's the shift pattern?I could figure out if it's a five speed. I think it's a four

Got everything disconnected from the motor today, just have to disconnect the motor mounts, driveline, and tranny and the motor is ready to pull. Sorry if these updates are boring but I'm excited