Jasonmreiss

I plan on changing the lines anyway, I just don't wanna change the tank if I don't have to. I am planning true dual exhaust. Don't know if that's an issue

I had a friend over today that has lots of experience with race cars. He suggested that I run a fuel cell. I am going to use a Chevy 383, naturally aspirated. I will not be racing this car except maybe a run or two down the 1/4. I was just going to use the stock tank. It's from a fuel injected 280. What would the advantage be to using a fuel cell instead?

1. "plug n play" so it's a direct bolt in ready for my 280z 2. "modern style" not the classic style 3. "with halos" working ones Google has plenty of results for hid's, but I couldnt find any with those three requirements together. I think the guy who was selling them is Bens1088, I shot him a message.

Sorry if this is common knowledge. I read about 30 pages of stuff on this topic and have a headache now lol. I'm after the modern hid look, with halos. Flame if ya want, I like em The thread I read, multiple threads actually, said there were some made that are plug n play, with halos available. It was an old thread so I searched google, but they only listed non working halos. Like the zstore ones. Anyone know where I can find them?

I reached the money barrier I was loving tear down and cleaning process cuz it was going so fast, I had the car down to a shell in about two weeks. Now I can't get it sandblasted or dipped cuz it's expensive. I can't build the motor without machine work which is cheap, but can't get the machine work done without the rotating assembly (383 kit) which is expensive. So now I'm stuck

Well I was bored and owned a dremel, I did a couple things on my coffee table to 'port' the heads. Honestly I probably did more harm than good, so in my boredom I may have nicked the valve seats. I don't really know but figured I'd err on the side of caution and get a valve job done. I wish Id of had more experience and known better, but it is what it is. Should I get the valve job done now or just cross my fingers?

It seems really funny to me that most people only see two type of engine 'animals' ...the American muscle, and the 'tuner' , however it's all the same, v8 guys 'like me' just don't think they need to tune because they already have a good stock hp. Apply the same tuning tricks to any motor and you'll have a monster

I just read a write up that made 401 hp, it had 9:1 compression, stock vortec heads, a hollley 750, the hot cam, hei, and the air gap manifold. It was a 350. So I'll go ahead and keep my hopes up. I'll have more displacement, and a better ignition system, plus the little head work done. From the sounds of it I'll probably stick with 10:1 or so compression. All the torque is made early so it should a fun street car

I have already smoothed the combustion chambers, polished the exhaust chambers, and ground a bit off the spark plug boss. Just some basic stuff I saw in an article about those heads. Nothin fancy as I didn't want to ruin them. Anyway, if I can get 400hp or a bit more, I'll be happy. The entire motor was free so I'd like to use it

Hmmm, well maybe I'll have to dial back the cr, or just do the machine work to the heads do I can run a bigger cam. I just wanted the cheap horsepower bump of higher compression. But I am new to building combos so thanks for the tip, I certainly don't want detonation.

Yeah I guess there's some things I won't /can't do that would help As is: Not zero decking Not align honing Not running a monster cam Not buying $2000 heads However I think this is a pretty good package, I guess I'll find out . I don't have a ton of money and I still need just about everything for the car...brakes, coilovers, LSD, interior, paint, bodywork etc... So no 555 for me

What I meant by cheap is quality components but not top shelf stuff My goal is 400+ hp, but torque is key. Besides the wife is buying a charger soon and thinks it'll be faster than the z, I just can't let that happen

Well cheap is kind of a relative term lol I figure the rotating assembly will be around 900 Cam 300 Intake 300 Carb 300 Dizzy/msd 300 Rockers 300 Varied other items (oil and water pump...etc) 300 Machine work 500

That's why I'm not machining down the valve guides for a bigger cam. I've heard these can be torque monsters if built right This will be my first bottom up engine build so it probably won't be right, but I have to do it on the cheap. So no aluminum heads, no extensive machine work. But still ok hopefully.

These are the ideas in my head for my engine build, just curious if someone a bit more experienced would give me a hp guesstimate. '97 vortec block and heads Gm lt4 hot cam (and springs to make it work) Full roller rockers 11 to 1 compression Msd Performer rpm air gap intake 3 angle valve job Holley 750 I have searched and found many comparable but they're all from big magazine companies and may be inflated numbers. See any problems with this combo? Thanks in advance

Couldn't find it, that's why I posted

It looks similar but I have a front view that I can't post, it's different. Thanks though

No, fix it, but that's not your problem

No, fix it, but that's not your problem

Anyone know about this car? Is there a write up somewhere? I really like the flares, are they custom? Anyone have more pics of this car?

I will look for the stripper this weekend, at least for the hard to get to areas. I won't get to the undercoating untill I get a rotisserie built, I really don't wanna lie on my back for that job. I'm just wondering if all the time and energy I'll need to put into doing it myself if the 600 for the blasting may just be worth it

Thanks, I do actually have one of those, it worked pretty well I guess. I suppose there's no fast way to restore a car lol

I have the car down to the shell and am wondering the best way to strip the thing down. I'm not looking for panels that need repair as im 90% sure it's solid. There is a bit of surface rust though and I don't want it to mess up the paint. So what is the most convenient/easy/fast way to strip it? I can have it blasted for $600 but have to transport it to another town and really don't have the money anyway. Anything involving a cheap solution would help. My wire wheel and palm sander is just taking too long

Thanks for the help, LSD for everyone!!!

Good idea lol, except that it is technically her car that she gave to me to work on and drive. I do prefer limited slip as I've driven both with high hp. I like to think I'm an above average driver (like most guys). So in an effort to do things right the first time, even with coil overs and stiffer suspension, I should keep the rear sway bar? I won't be autoxing it, just a few aggressive 'closed' road weekends ))