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Jasonmreiss

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Everything posted by Jasonmreiss

  1. Just film it from the burnout side , or weld it, just takes a few minutes. Don't be selfish lol
  2. thanks for the help, ground control is replacing them with 10" springs. Import replacement parts has my bz3099's in stock now. All I need to do now is source the front gland nuts. Msa can special order them I guess, anyone know anywhere else that my carry them?
  3. Soooo won't lowering the spring perch, and getting shorter springs, both acomplish the same thing....lower the car? And both lower the shock bump travel? What is optimal for having the tokico struts in the middle of their travel? Or am I not thinking right? I see most people run the 10" springs. Really sorry if I'm just not getting it, I'm a noob to suspension, but I have done a lot of reading
  4. sweet, well i have all the info now to section my struts this weekend. the car is only shell right now waiting on getting on a rotisserie, after body work, custom metal flares, and paint, ill put it all back together and see how it sits. if its not low enough, i sure hope ground control will exchange springs with me
  5. thanks, i will look into possibly exchanging the springs for 10" ones. i have read and read and read, i have not come across a thread that states exactly which length springs will drop a 280z to exact heights. if you know of one please share. as far as the upper mount goes, i am talking about the upper spring perch, not the insulator. i am going to be using the stock insulator, and have already drilled it out.
  6. I have printed out the FAQ pages, and searched a lot but can't find an answer for my specific setup. I have the ground control coilover kit. 12" springs rated at 150/175, 4" threaded sleeve and tokico illumina dampers. In a 280z that I want to lower 2-3 inches. Question 1, Where to weld the ring? I'd follow the info in the FAQ, but it's for a different length spring. Also it's not a very stiff shock so I imagine it'll squat a bit lower. Question 2, maybe this is dumb but it's got me perplexed, on the front do you use the upper stock spring perch? Or spacers? Or just leave it out? It seems just leaving it out isn't right because then the strut doesn't turn
  7. I deleted them from my photo bucket but I'll retake them tomorrow, let me make sure I got the proper pics. You want the bracket that bolts to the car? Or the hatch?
  8. Good luck lol. Just kidding but not really, just pay the guy, he deserves it. The book is amazing
  9. Ok I think I am confused. I am doing this on a 280, I have the 12" springs and 4" collars from ground control. Using illuminas. Will the same measurements from the 240 work? As in final length of strut tube, and where to weld the lower ring. I'm using the bz3099 in front and bz3013 in back, I'd like the car to drop 2-3 ", I'll be using stock insulators. Thanks and sorry if this has been covered. I did read extensively but just couldn't find exact measurements for the 280
  10. So I jinxed myself saying stuff was easy.....grrrrr I took apart the rear suspension yesterday. In the process I completely ruined my stub axles . Even with the nut put back on to protect the threads, just a couple taps with a hammer screwed them up anyway. I searched for some new ones and it seems my mistake is going to cost at least a couple hundred bucks. Boooooo
  11. Well they don't have bz3099's....grrrrr, at least that's what they tHey told me
  12. Glad you got it fixed, now as a show of good faith, I'd like a burnout video. Thanks
  13. They're not Sectioned yet, but I did get the perches grinded off.
  14. Looks sweet! Is that the kaminari air dam?
  15. I'll try to find it, pics in the mornIng
  16. What year? I'm not sure the differences other than some years only had one strut. My 280 has 2. I can post pics assuming I can find them in the gigantic pile of parts
  17. Got the rear suspension assembly out today, it was easy as well, just a couple sketchy moments as the car rocked around on the jack stands but I didn't get squished and all is well
  18. You're killing me................. Manual means manual...aka doing the choke yourself You need to have a cable that runs from the carb, inside the car, then to a lever or pull knob that you operate yourself. You close the choke on startup, then gradually open it as the engine warms up. If the car ran perfectly before with the current setup then either you got extremely lucky, or the choke gods did it for you
  19. Got the front suspension out, pretty easy stuff. I have to get the car across town to a buddies shop soon, but I was getting bored. So I figure we could just lift it onto the trailer
  20. Took out all the front suspension, I still have to move it accross town soon though so no more roller, but I was getting bored.
  21. I've been looking all around, and the best I could find was still 2 months out. I'd like to buy 2 bz3099s so if anyone knows where they have some IN STOCK please let me know thanks
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