Daeron

I want to add that I, for one, would LOVE to see a dyno result on a stock or relatively stock NA L28, and a turbo i guess, while we are at it, versus the stock intake manifolds. I think that this manifold is the one to try as the first variable to see how much difference the manifold itself makes; so many of us have dropped larger injectors and put the 60MM TB onto an otherwise stock motor over the years, when all of my recent reading, learning, and growing is telling me that this manifold, with all other stock components (except maybe the TB) will PROBABLY make more of a difference than any of the rest. Curious to see what could be done with nothing but the mani and some larger injectors. Hard data on this question would be FANTASTIC.. unfortunately, I am nowhere near even working on getting my Zcar running right now. I just figured I would post to add a little more emphasis that this manifold setup may well be a good "first step" in tweaking your engine. SOME sort of induction work really MUST be done for any real performance anyhow.. 38mm intake runners just aren't enough!

seriously, i was gonna say the same thing. beven and bogan? like, rhyming with seven and logan right? crazy.

Folks, I think we hav the first sticky of the new forum. Lets make this list encyclopedic, since our dear friend Paul was kind enough to give us a HUGE head start!!! Suspension differences: didnt the cars get stiffer sway bars as time went on? i thought that the 240s were lacking rear sway bars and had skinny fronts, or something vaguely along those lines? (my apologies, my facts arent 100% off the top of my head ) then again, there is always the list so conveniently compiled for us by the good folks at Victoria British: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0009.asp That link may not be quite right for all perpetuity; but they keep the model history just after the table of contents, so if you are reading this post in the remote future and its not linking to the right page in the catalog, you should be able to find it before the body of the catalog begins, but after the table of contents.

Also, there is a pressure differential switch that the brake lines both go down to when they come out of the master cylinder. The purpose of this switch (it looks like a proportioning valve or something, total of four brake lines in it and a wire) is to make sure that both front and rear brake circuits are working. if for some reason much higher pressure is detected in one circuit than the other, at an extreme point of pedal motion the valve kicks in, closes off the lower pressure side, and turns the brake light on. This switch gets stuck, or the wire goes bad. There is also a thread on this that was recently updated in the "Ignition & Electrical" forum that might be of assistance, the subject should be enough for you to find it.

No problem, that was exactly what i said when i looked up the site on a recommendation. calibrating the skull wrench.

toecutter: http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/inductionsystems.pdf That website has a number of excellent articles to help expand your mind.. but this one, and in particular the comments about the Helmholtz effect, explain they "why's" of maintaining velocity stacks on your intake tract, and why changing the length of them changes your tuning, and what will happen if you unify all of your stacks into a "plenum" and use a filter. This is one of those areas that unless someone spends mucho bucks on multiple part configurations, AND high-dollar testing on each configuration, its REALLY largely academic, kinda seat-of-the-pants type tuning. Over time, an individual can gain an idea what sort of effect a certain arbitrary change in runner length will make, on a given engine.. but to ask "what will this do?" is something of a loaded question. I mean, look at my sig... I don't know any more about what the changes might affect than you.. BUT, I know vaguely how they will effect the running of your motor. Maybe not in what ways, but I know how its doing it... you dig? That grapeape racing site has a NUMBER of excellent technical articl, and I HIGHLY recommend reading all of them. At first I hadn't thought all of the articles would be that pertinent to me (me == not a V8 guy at ALL, so alot of "car literature" just bypasses my interest.) I was wrong, and every article on that website is a gem. Thanks TonyD for the reference..

whoa, nice!! must remember this thread in the future

If i said anything to be eased off over, I apologize.. there is no negativity in my intent, I was simply trying to identify the source to help explain why some of us don't like a certain look.

orange turn signals, red tail light/brake light combo, white backups. same colors in the euro 280s... just in standard 280 config. A minor difference, but IMO a major one; it sets everything *just* right.

I have to say I agree with SkyBlue here, I infinitely prefer the euro 240 tail lights to any others on the S30.. with euro 280 being a second. Stock is almost as good. However, I understand the desire for hybridization.... I think that there may be something of an "anti-Corvette" sub-type of Z owner (maybe something of an "Anti-Porsche" sub-type as well, but that is tangential to this topic) and that for those of us who see our Zs as better versions of those cars, the concept of the roundish tail lights is right out.. At the very least, there is a part of ME that is this "anti-vette" guy who thinks just that: the round tail lights look too much like a corvette and not enough like a Z. Just trying to explain the anti-hybrid sentiment shown in this facet... OEM tail lights all the way.

That is the truest post i think I have ever read of TonyD's.. It is all only complex while you continue to look at it as one big "thing;" break it down into sub-systems and its all wonderfully simplified. That is why repair manuals are written the way they are; not many of them are trying to go to the effort of educating you, though, so the end effect is not that of teaching you how the car works, it is that of helping you get it running again.

Turn signal lever won't stay engaged There, now theres a link to that thread in the sticky. Productive couple of photos, there! thanks!

uhm... if the timing chain jumped a tooth, then changing the spark plug wires would NOT fix it... the timing chain controls valve timing, and I may be wrong but I thought that the distributor was driven directly off the crankshaft? Something more is up in the air here. I don't REALLY know enough to tell you what, but I can tell that things aren't adding up right in this equation...

I was never very enthusiastic about trying ti fix the turn signals.. most of my "trying" consisted of blindly spraying PB/WD-40/electrical cleaner into the mechanism of the switch, and rummaging around in my uncles parts looking at other turn signal switches and theorizing plugging them into my car to see if it would work. BUT, I have examined enough switches, and enough mechanisms, that I really only even skimmed what you said. As soon as I went and looked at the part you mentioned in the photograph, I understood exactly what would be found under there and knew you were right on... Somehow looking at that bit before didnt quite click in my head.. I was stuck on the concept that maybe the large copper spring pieces that touch the base.. kind of making a C shape around the steering column.. I had thought that THOSE were the contact points for some reason (this was some time ago, when I was still occassionally looking at this problem.. I have learned a great deal and had alot more electrical experience since this time period ) Anyhow, thanks for the enlightenment!

check the TPS contacts for water.. in fact, check over all the FI sensors and plugs, unplug them all, and blow the water that you didn't realize was in them out. chances are that alone will do your trick; I have been there and done that on my 75 many times. If that doesnt help, go to http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm that link and download the "EFI Bible" and read it, use it to walk yourself through a systematic test of the components.

You didn't mention the fuel pump.. and your 240 tanks should be usable, IIRC people usually swap the supply and return lines or something? And I would also imagine that you would want to lift the ignition system (coil/dizzy/etc) from the FI vehicle as well... Go to carfiche.com or carfiche.org (i forget which) and look for a 280Z or 280ZX FSM to download, and read up on the FI and ignition chapters.. and go to blues tech tips page and download the "FI Bible" and read that, too. Read the bible first, it is easier to understand and will help you understand the more integrated picture that is in the FSM.

I have been browsing and reading for some time now, and have yet to stumble across this information. I motion for sticky status, this was an excellent post. Many thanks; this has stumped both my father and I on two different vehicles. He got his figured out, (although I do not know if it is "right") but my signals have never REALLY worked.. (once in a GREAT while, dimly, and slowly..)

first paragraph, good idea for a gasoline "backup" but race fuel is roughly as difficult, or more difficult, to find than LPG, at least here. Second paragraph, by vapour injection you mean, a multi point injection system very similar to the standard gasoline FI type, correct? If so, then that is exactly what I am wanting to do, great to hear I will not be totally blazing my own trail. Third paragraph, I believe that the amount of butane mixed with the propane varies by locale; my understanding is that its relatively "dirty" so to speak in Australia, but living in south Florida (tropical weather year round) I am not too concerned about a "wintertime" mixture; I don't anticipate any road trips in this vehicle outside of tropical regions, so personally I am not concerned about that. However, it is an excellent point to consider when deciding just how high to take your compression ratio.

That is one of the most Stunning photos of a Z I have ever seen.

75 280, unknown mileage.. speedo cable broken, odo reads 15K, I estimate I've put 60-85K on it myself with the broken cable.. mostly white, needs attention, too ashamed to go uncover it to take photos to post because I have owned her since july of 2000 and haven't been able to do SQUAT with her. DD for almost five years, now awaiting income stability and spa treatment. meanwhile, I am in subaru Purgatory.. 87 GL-10, FWD, 1.8l, 91hp, 3 speed automatic:cry2:

I have tried every string I could think of, I was grasping at straws and you threw me a few. Thanks, man I cant STOP thinking about a 10:1 turbo engine! I want to build my car a step at a time, and my first thoughts are, build engine, 88mm pistons, shaved p-90, flat tops, 10:1 compression.. megaquirt, and EFI.. and then, LPG turbo conversion. possibly TT, but THAT depends on what i do for an intake manifold... but thats all blah blah. If only I had the money to DO and not just THINK..

Maybe I am displaying my ignorance (I cannot recall exactly what the entire float assembly looks like) but couldnt you just bend an arm to get something of a calibration? You would just need to find a way to maybe extend the arm, and give it a slightly different angle..? I don't know, its a thought.

Phiz!! Great to see you over here! Even though the R200 is a bit beefier than our soobs strictly NEED, it might still be attractive to the guys who want to run 'em in RWD only; and using the Z community to help get together a group buy to drive down prices might be worth it.

I am sorry I am dozing about posting any links up here, I'm gonna have to go through and find what I have read again the hard way because I appear to have failed to bookmark any of it. Most of what I have found has been merely information convincing me that it cannot be incredibly difficult to do; as I believe I said above, the LPG vehicle has been a dream of mine since I was 13 or 14.. so roughly half my life at this point. Honestly, I had never considered a PERFORMANCE engine running propane until very recently, when I learned the anti-detonation qualities of the stuff.. TeamNissan, please forward me anything your research turns up; I would LOVE to find a book somewhere, or ANYTHING that would help educate me furhter in this field. Unfortunately, most web links I was able to find were predominantly trying to sell me packages for specific vehicles, most of which weren't automobiles... I am mind-bogglingly interested in the concept of a turbocharged LPG or CNG (LPG would be preferable to me, for fueling convenience purposes only) L-powered Z... it is going to be such a long time before i get to the engine on my car that I have ALL the time in the world to research the project, but all of my attempts to find more info thus far have hit dead ends.

A fan like that will draw plenty of current.. but there ARE alternator upgrades available, if you are willing to do some minor custom re-wiring. Most of the stock wiring on these cars is so bad at this point, that alot of it should be reconstructed anyhow. If your fan clutch spun freely when hot, then it is not engaging when hot and your fan isnt spinning. It sounds like you need a new clutch.