Daeron

if I can take that as a semi-standing invitation, great. Despite all my recent posting, I am in "lurk" status regarding actual working on cars right now.. no dough to go to the show, yanno? Thanks immensely for the hospitality; and eventually at least a gab session is imminent. I am in the midst of trying to refinance my house right now, so I have domestic issues taking up any productive time.. I use the internet like alot of people use television. Thats what time I spend here; the rest is either at work or working around the house, getting odd projects crossed off the list and cleaning. Someday soon, though, this will all be done and my stress levels will plummet. Maybe August, september -ish I get to start the grinding and whatnot on the Datsun, but in the meantime it is bare minimum to keep the junker DD running.

Given this information, I am REALLY REALLY regretting opening this can of worms in this thread, heh TonyD reiterated my point best, it has to be suited for what it is in. IF it is suited, all I wanted to say is, it works perfectly fine. obviously in this guy's case standalone EFI is more than warranted.

I will make clear two things: one, I had NO IDEA why he wasn't here as well as "the other place" and two, that I feel his name alone carries undeniable clout; I have seen one or two MEAN z setups on dual SUs and those are the ones that really got the heart pounding, because there was an echo in the exhaust note only produced with the twin carb setup; a hi-po motor based on the same induction as the original 240Z has a specialized tone to it that is STILL very stockish and that appeals to me more than anything else about Zcars. Thats why I want dual TBS for FI.

You know, its one thing to do whatever you want to do to your car.. but sometimes you might sell it and find out exactly how brutally "out there" your tastes really are. Sometimes this can be a painful lesson... not that it will deter any of us, just pointing out a little humor in the situation.

someone gave them to me I am just reciprocating.

Since I had asked the question more than once (I think at least twice in the past) I DO want to clarify that I had anticipated your answer and understand fully. I hope I don't look like an ingrate for even asking, I was simply curious. Thank you for the courteous answer to a question that may have seemed a little short on tact.

Thank you both, I had both of these thoughts last night when I read the last couple of posts in this thread. Now I know I was right about on track. O well, 300whp is more than I will ever drop into a clutch all at once anyhow, I am not a big burnout fan.

Grump: are these potential "welders for sale" already spoken for??? Because I am one of a family of young (with two old) hotrodders in need of a welder at the right price.. between my brothers, our father and uncle, we have 5 complete Zs, three of which are road cars, one ITS racecar, and one automatic 240 that we really need to sh!t or get off the pot over (its sitting, in other words, with no plans for it) Then there's my uncle's roadsters. two street cars, one 67 1600 and one 69 2000, one 2000 Historic racecar, and one of the two BRE roadster racecars. My uncle HAD a welder but its an old Cebora MIG and it needs a couple of parts that are discontinued. I need frame rails and a couple of quarter panels, and there's just all SORTS of projects that have us keeping our eyes peeled for the right welder. When it comes to the George Washingtons, I am not the brother to talk to (I am currently struggling to get my managers to put me on more than three 5 hour shifts per week ) but fortunately my brothers are doing much better than I. I just had to ask if these toys were already earmarked for someone in particular, since you are local to me If they ARE "spoken for" I totally understand.

I will echo my thanks and appreciation of all the hard work, Mike. When/Will the text of the article ever be posted here?

try searcing the archives at Zcar.com sometime for his name.. "norm (the 12 sec dual SU dude)" The guy is WILD as far as how low-budget he goes with things, but he pulls out results. I am not 100% certain I trust my judgment of his BS factor; he is the type that makes you second guess belief as well as doubt in him.. You just can't decide whether to believe him.

Call me sentimental. Glad to know I was understood, thanks for the response.

well, yes you will.. apparently the cosworth injectors are not the same as ours, but still, all you need is a dropping resistor in line with your "trigger switch" to drop the voltage down to the appropriate point... OR, just get a small 5Vdc power supply to integrate into the thing. I haven't ironed out the details for a Z EFI version of the same thing yet, but I will one of these days.. I have about 70 injectors to collect, clean, test, and label so I can match an even set (or two sets??? Or maybe eight injectors total? who knows?? mwahahahaa) for my car.

nice!

from wikipedia: U joints work great, WHEN the axle in question does not depart from a straight angle greatly. However, when the axle is put at angle, the U joint is overly stressed because it is at (or beyond) the limit of its functioning range. CV Joints have a functioning range about twice that of U joints.

10 Kilowatts == 10 horsepower. You need more than 10 horsepower to power a ten kilowatt generator, due to energy lost to friction.. but a ford I6 is BRUTAL overkill unless you want a 35-40 KW generator... which is enough for a house with central AC, a fridge, a water heater, a clothes dryer, and a microwave running all at once. Post hurricane, people were hooking 10KW generators up to their house and running pretty well everything, within reason.. just leaving the hot water heater off until nighttime when the AC wasnt on, minimal lighting, and other simple conservation issues like that.

c'mon, guys, that thing would plane off with a 20 horse outboard on it!! thats no mean feat!!!

I want a crotch rocket like that.....

Look up CV Joints in wikipedia and read up.. it will open your eyes.

Thanks.. as soon as i got this far, I slapped my forehead. Naturally, an effective LSD would be more prone to breaking stuff... (I got off work and I was mad; I had a few beers. The intervening hours have brought my intellect back, d'oh!)

I will throw the idea of an old Subaru engine out there.. Us 80s subaru guys consider a car at 200K miles to be "just broken in" Look for the 1.8 liter OHV motor, the EA81, or the EA82 OHC motor which is virtually identical. The OHC has timing belts to worry about, but other than that the only potential issues lay with overheating after the engine sees some use (we tell people that an EA82 with over 100K that got overheated once pretty well definitely has a bad headgasket) Headgasket problems are more pronounced on the OHC engine than on the OHV engine. the SPFI system used on the ea82s is wonderful, simple, and easy to diagnose with onboard pre OBD diagnostic plugs. I have also considered building a little old datsun motor for use on a generator... but never gotten around to it. How much is the gen head from miller?????? good catch on that, BTW. I know I have seen three phase gen heads on harbor freight's website, but... harbor freight... enuff said. Regarding cooling, since the engine is probably not going to run above 1800 or maybe 3600 RPMs, I doubt it will be too hard to get a radiator and a fan on it that would suffice to keep it cool under any circumstances; after all, they stay cool under a hood, in traffic, with only the clutch fan blowing on the radiator, right?

All you big people in Z cars!!!! One of the reasons I love the car so much is because it fits me, I am only 5'8" (maybe 8 1/2" on a good day) IE, sized about the same as your average Japanese man. The Z is one of the few things that make being somewhat short a good thing

I say, put the shovel away and stop digging up old threads!! this one was already brought back from the dead in 2005, and now youve done it in 07! two Frahnkensteens in one day, wowsers! (no offense to you, jeromio, just being funny)

put the shovel away!!!! no need to dig up old threads and ressurect them like youre some sort of Doctor Frankenstein (pronounced "frahn-en-steen" as in, "froderick frahnkensteen")

http://www.cosworthvega.com/Articles/InjectorTester/Homemade%20Injector%20Cleaner.htm might help, its a great idea at least. Instructions on how to build a rack to clean and test injectors.

"Crap" is a strong word to use, I think!! Just like "There is no 'best'" I would think that to simply bash the stock FI is a little harsh. For performance applications, the stock ECU is certainly limited, but is anyone expecting 21st century performance out of a computer designed in the 70s? The ECU is the key to the "crappy" stock FI, other than that the flapper AFM is the single worst part of the FI system's design, and again that is simply dated. Antique, yes, short on power potential, yes.. (and I am not trying to convince you, I know you know this as well as anyone else would.. I am just putting this up there to go beside your statement for posterity's sake) BUT for stock performance, the stock FI is wonderfully easy to understand, and despite what many have problems with, all it takes is patience and the EFI bible to fix ANYTHING with it. Many of the components are servicable (try to "fix" a hotwire MAF or a MAP sensor, or a potentiometer style TPS.) Once again, Jon, I am not trying to explain anything to you, and I agree that the stock FI leaves NO room for real performance improvement, (MS is one of the first investments I plan to make once work begins on my car, before intake, before engine work, before everything but my exhaust) but "crap" is a slightly strong word and I wanted to make this post to make sure that nobody decides to scrap their stock FI because "its a bum system," yanno?