Daeron

Yes, we do.. this is what I have always been taught by my dad and uncle, and I am VERY GLAD to hear you say this Braap. Question: What would the potential consequences of re using these bolts on an engine of too much power? mains and rods could possible destroy a crankshaft, piston rods, block, ?pistons??? head bolts.. most likely a blown headgasket, right? possibly with accompanying overheating and warpage, yes, but mostly just a headgasket? Am I right, more or less right, off base? Just trying to glean a little more out of your wisdom hoard, thanks.

the only way for the AFM to be "off a tooth or two" is intentional fiddling by a PO; and the "A/F ratio adjustment" you mentioned is the idle air adjustment, which controls how much air bypasses the throttle plate to supply the engine at idle. If the AFM is mis-calibrated, then it may need to be tuned in.. but they usually dont "go off" from normal use. Aclibration directions should be available in Blue's techtips page, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm Sorry to correct you, I don't mean to sound like an ass.

http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/dampers.pdf its a link to a pdf file, so it will take adobe to read it.. clicking this one might be simpler, its the index of tech articles. http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/index.cfm The purpose of a harmonic balancer (properly termed a "torsional damper") is explained there wonderfully thoroughly, thanks to tonyd for pointing me towards the link.

exactly right, except.... It was ONLY an option. I repeat; the R-160 rear LSD was not installed in ALL of ANY Subaru model, it was only available as an option. However, it was a fairly widely selected option, and it was available on most, if not all models. In fact, the Soobie guys know that LSD can be fun, too, so its worth checking any older Subaru and seeing if the rear diff (if present) is the coveted limited slip... I am getting to a point where I check almost any RWD IRS japcar for an LSD, honestly

Beautiful Z!! What kind of go-box has it got under the front cover? Also, is that a BRAT I see in this photo??

Another Subaru Guy here, and the LSD was ONLY offered as an OPTION on any car, EVER. It is not always on any vehicle, and they know that LSD is happy times, too.. so as was mentioned, ANY late 70's-1994 subaru may well have one on the back.. and even later ones as well. The quest for LSD in the junkyards leaves us sticking our heads under damn near everything with a pumpkin in the tail end, doesn't it? the subaru LSDs will almost ALL be 3.7 ratio, and they should all have the green sticker mentioned above.

larger pics please!! that is GORGEOUS! this IS an S30, right?

FTW!!! I LOVE that! Theres a kid across the street with an 86 300ZX that has the hood, headlights, and front clip from an 87+ on it. The overall effect is fantastic, it is really the best of all worlds of Z31 if you ask me.. BTW, veritech.. I think that is the only time I have seen a skyline style tail light on a Z and not found it inappropriate.

grumpyvette: contact Reliable Tool Service (Reliable Tool Repair something like that) on Wallis Road in West Palm... It is just off of Southern Blvd east of the turnpike, turn north onto Cleary road and go one block, turn right and they are at the eastern end of the first warehouse compound. Good labor, good labor rates, and parts available if you want. I worked at the place for a few months; I live right up the street from him. The guy's name is Jim, top notch dude.

I will get some of the links that I have gathered ith CNG/LPG vehicle conversions and post them up here. This has been a pipe dream project of mine since I was 13 years old; I have looked into both an economy-minded, simple TBI type setup as well as the possibility of using it in a high performance application. I haven't done anywhere NEAR enough research to know enough to SAY anything about the idea, yet.. but I am in love with it and want to see this thread blossom. I will respond once I have time to go through my histories and bookmarks and private messages, and list the links.

I also say thats a good response from the OP. Can you feel the love?

Somewhat off topic for this thread, but regarding weight loss, I discovered in this thread about betamotorsports carbon fiber pieces, that you can get a fiberglass hatch with a lexan or plexiglas (I forget which) window for something on the order of $420 dollars... and that sheds ALOT of weight. Just thought I would mention it.

Wonderful, glad we cleared that up. Negative feedback loop, closed.

Okay.. somehow I used the word "hood" once in my own post and I introduced some ambiguity, so I want to clarify.. (I never REALLY meant to say anything about a hood, just a hatch) Those were prices for fiberglass and CF hatches with a plastic rear window, correct? With and without hinge reinforcement? five hundred dollars to permanently fix the rust on my hatch, and shed one of the biggest single masses that I can shave off of my car (ME, in MY plans for MY car, I am saying..) Plus shipping.. that is a pricetag I think I could eventually justify. Thank you for the tip

If my knowledge didn't have a tad of uncertainty to it, I would have chimed in a few days ago.. but I am fairly certain that while there are differences in the door poanels from 70-76, they are all more or less interchangeable. The most significant should be the one piece handle, versus one small handle and a strap mentioned above, and IIRC all the doors actually have the capacity to take either setup.... it MAY be that the later doors can still use the earlier setup.. But I have a 7/75 280Z, that currently has 240Z doors on it, and I ahve played lots of games with the related hardware.. I preferred the 280Z, one piece angled door handle, and I think I retained it on my driver door but not the passenger... Anyway, most of the differences from 70-76 should be moot. The later 280Z doors, with the different latch etc, are totally different in every way. I *think* that the lock knobs might interchange, and the window cranks

If my knowledge didn't have a tad of uncertainty to it, I would have chimed in a few days ago.. but I am fairly certain that while there are differences in the door poanels from 70-76, they are all more or less interchangeable. The most significant should be the one piece handle, versus one small handle and a strap mentioned above, and IIRC all the doors actually have the capacity to take either setup.... it MAY be that the later doors can still use the earlier setup.. But I have a 7/75 280Z, that currently has 240Z doors on it, and I ahve played lots of games with the related hardware.. I preferred the 280Z, one piece angled door handle, and I think I retained it on my driver door but not the passenger... Anyway, most of the differences from 70-76 should be moot. The later 280Z doors, with the different latch etc, are totally different in every way. I *think* that the lock knobs might interchange, and the window cranks

I saw an old hotrod magazine where they were doing an oldskool hybridz BBC V8 conversion (this was a 77 hotrod mag) and they just got two new sheetmatal rear fenders and modded them to use as mega huge flares for drag tires.. meaning, they had a second fender welded on up over the first... For the front, I dunno.. but thats one option for the rear flares

If what I am reading is correct, he is talking about building an exhaust system of an appropriate size for a moderately modified stock engine, op to the point where a catalytic converter would wind up.. and then, from there on back, upping the pipe size and using a large flow cat and 3" exhaust system so that much of it could be left in place when the nice turbo motor goes in. IMO, as long as you have a good 12-18" stretch of moderately sized exhaust (that long, fully collected) you should be able to achieve the scavenging effect desired from that. After that point, stepping up to a larger exhaust size shouldnt hurt much.. it may have some detrimental effect, not having the full length at the narrower size; but the impact should be minimal. I am no battle-hardened tuner; my knowledge is thus far based primarily on reading and limited work on mine and other peoples cars.. but from what I have learned a short pipe can provide most of the exhaust scavenging.

that IS in mighty fine shape.. looks to be a 240 model. The typefaces changed slightly, and while the 260/earlier 280s use the same typeface on the gauges, the words on the combo gaugs are printed slightly larger on the 240s

I am recalling a certain amount of difficulty, or at least complication, in threading and tightening the intake manifold nuts as it is.. I may be thinking more about a roadster engine than a Z, and even still it might be a non issue.. maybe just, leave a blank boss with a center punch pre embossed, so that one could easily drill the hole out should it be necessary?

I just want to replace mine with something that weighs a butt-load less. I am not looking at being able to do a great deal of weight reduction on my car, given what I want it to be.. and a normal functioning hatch that weighs much less than the stock one would be an EXCELLENT place to shed what, 20, 30 pounds? im not good at estimating weight on memory alone, and it has been a LONG time since I picked up a bare unhinged hatch with glass.. as for the "look" it would promptly be sanded smooth and finished body color; I have no desire for the "look" I just want to shed all the weight I can from my street car. Basically, I am building a pipe dream in my head, and we shall see how close I ever get to it. Aim higher than you can possibly accomplish, and all that jazz. What would the sticker be on one of those hoods, given that I did feel like going through the PITA of mounting it? Obviously it would be a piece that needed ginger treatment; not to be slammed about like a stock hatch..

Cold, Aye, and dark, and grim as well. Arrr.

Please don't take this the wrong way.... Has anyone ever told you that you just *might* have too much money to be a datsun guy?

Pardon the random ignorant question.. ..but Why can't such a lightweight hatch/lexan combo be hinged and used in a way similar to a normal hatch?? is the carbon fiber THAT incredibly prone to torsional flexing? I suppose its too much to ask for a tad of reinforcement or substructure to get a usable but still lightweight hatch..

In my head, in the pipe dream where I drop an L-series into a BMW of this style.. I totally alter the car to eliminate mention of BMW, and find a way to make it look more like a strange 510, and badge the thing as a datsun.... ..but then again, I am a strange dude. with strange ideas. I love this project, and have now subscribed to this thread. Nice work, and thanks for the engine porn!!!