Phantom

I have the exact same exhaust set-up on my '77 280Z as kjones except I'm using the JCI headers.. I have been running it since 2004 and have been very pleased with the sound levels and performance.

All - I'm always surprised at the search for the perfect radiator for the LS1 conversion. I've been running mine for 7 years now on the original 280Z radiator (3 row stock) recored to a 4 row with the fans from the donor Z28. I have never had an overheating problem even in 100 degree heat with the AC on and only one fan working because of a failed relay. The car has run 30 minute sessions on the track at TMS in Ft Worth and never once did the needle exceed the normal position.

I have been daily driving my LS1 280Z since late 2003. That would be 7 years and over 30,000 miles now. In that time my total problems have been: 1) Both of the cooling fan relays failed - but one at a time - and the car ran with just fan in 100 degree Texas heat with the AC on - yes the car has functional AC. 2) Burned through a starter wire that had been routed too close to the exhaust manifold. I have had no problems in the past 5 years. Love it as a daily driver. I'm getting about 18 MPG in combined city/highway and it gets looks wherever it goes. I will say that it only goes out in the "warmer" months now. When I moved to Washington state I started garaging it in the winter months becasue they use a deicing fluid on the roads here that will literally dissolve a Z's frame rails. I keep it on a battery tender in the garage Nov-Feb and then start bringing it out in March.

My '77 has a '98 Camaro LS1 in it. It was the JCI prototype. It has a stock tank with an external pump mounted in the same location as the original pump from the Z although upsized for the LS1. It also used the original Z supply and return fuel lines. I believe they are AN8 & 6. I haven't messed with that in years now. Both lines run to a filter regulator on the passenger side of the engine mounted high on the firewall. Email me directly if you would like a photo.

Bump - anyone knowlegable about the electronically driven speedometer on the Z32? Is the speedometer input separate from the odometer? I have a functional odometer but the speedometer has ceased functioning. The input is from the differential on this car. NA with automatic.

I have a 1993 N/A convertible with an automatic transmission and about 130,000 miles. The car is bone stock. The speedometer quit working last week. The odometer and tripometer both still work, though. I did a search but it came up empty. Any suggestions as to what the fix would be?

I haven't been on the forum much the past couple years. Life in central Washington is much different than DFW! The good news is that I still have the Z32 convertible and the hybrid 280Z. I have had little time to do anything with either car except just keep them running and do basic maintenance. The 280Z is still a head turner even with the 13 year old paint job and the dings & scratches of the 30,000 miles I've put on it since it went into Johns Cars to be the prototype for his kit. I occasionally get the car out to random events. Not long after I got up here I took it to Renegade Raceway - the local 1/4 mile track - and detonated the drivers side half-shaft universal on the 1-2 shift. Coasted through the 1/4 in 20 seconds and still almost beat the car next to me. After the cost of that repair - took out the universal, brake caliper and brake cable on that side - I haven't been back. I've made a few car shows just for grins and the response to the car has been interesting. This is the land of Detroit iron. Non US manufacture automobiles just aren't all that popular up here unless its a Subaru or Audi for the all-wheel drive daily use. Some guys think the V8 is really cool but also think it's a real waste in a Japanese Sports car. OK in a 'Vette but not a Datsun. Anyway, less than 2 years after I got here my company closed the plant I was managing and, after turning down 5 positions with them in order to stay here, I became unemployed. Like a good guy I got on a government program & went to the local JC enrolled in the Automotive Technology program to learn some additional skills for my favorite pastime. Did that for three quarters and then got a chance to start up my own business, Davis Concept Engineering, LLC, and started making some serious coinage. Hit a dry spell around the holidays that continued until recently and am mow back at it again. A local start-up company wants me to be their VP of Operations so I'm currently consulting for them and then will probably accept the position when it opens up in the next couple months while keeping my own business going on the side. Fortunately there is no conflict of interest concerns. As some of you might know, my son DarthZ, bought Grenade300's 73 240Z also with an LS1/T56 combo. It's tough on the old man because his is definitely quicker with about a 5-600 lb weight advantage on mine. He's in the process of finishing the car off and there is plenty to do there. With three little boys and a little girl on the way and a zillion home improvement projects, however, it has been slow going for him. I can really identify with the home improvement projects. We had a nice home on 1/5 of an acre in Arlington, TX and up here we have 4 acres with a live pond and creek along with about 100 trees and wildlife out the wazoo. My wife of almost 38 years, Chris, and I have been busting our butts with improvement projects. After 3 1/2 years I'm finally getting the back garage set up as a auto shop. My "barn" is over 3,000 square feet, has 7 garage bays and a 600 sq ft efficiency apartment that we use for visiting honeymooners, family and other guests. Enough for now - probably lost most of you about two paragraphs in. Y'all have a great day - and gets those Z's running!

To me the easiest way to handle the tach is to send it to the www.brokenkitty.com folks - John's Cars. He figured out that problem back in '04 when he ws using my car for a prototype.Are you running an automatic or a 6-spd? The speedo takes it's signal from the transmission. If you're planning on running a T56 then spend a few bucks and get the tailshaft for it that has a mechanical output. Then you can hook the Datsun cable to it. In my case we got a CableX box that takes the signal from the tranny converts it to a speed signal for a small electric motor that drives the Datsun speedometer cable. It's been working in my car for almost 6 years and over 30,000 miles now.

Juan240Z - I feel your pain buddy. I've driven my car for years now without the adjustable PV because of the difficulty of putting it into an already assembled car. I also feel your frustration about not being able to get a simple picture that actually shows an adjustable PV installed. I've been overwhelmed just trying to figure out how to get to the stock one and either pull it out or disable it somehow in place and install the adjustable.

I've been running my A/C system on my 280Z without integrating it into the LS1 controls for 6 years now. three of them in the DFW area, and never had a problem. There is so much torque in that motor it doesn't hardly notice the A/C when it kicks on at idle. I think you're chasing something that is inconsequential.

FWIW - I've been running an OEM clutch in my LS1 280Z since it's build back in '04. It has over 30,000 miles on it now and no problems. Smooth engagement and low pedal pressure. Feels very close to the stock L28 clutch that originally came in the car.

I have received numerous "no permission" notifications trying to access my own member photos in the galleries. I've logged on like 30 times already and even accepted the "rules" twice. What gives? Is this punishment for lying low for a while?

I notice a lot of discussion about fuel cells and I question the need - especially on the 280Z conversions. My car is running it's original tank and a single electric pump in the same location as the original one. The only time I've seen any starvation problems with it was when I had less than 1/8th tank and was going through some of the tight infield curves at Texas Motor Speedway. It also allows me to not worry about or smell fuel leaks/smells inside the car. I realize it means having to route the passenger side exhaust over to the drivers side but that also worked out well in my car.

NC987 - Where in Washington are you located. I'm in Yakima. My 1977 280Z was the prototype car for the John's Cars kit for the LS1/T56 conversion. That was over five years ago and the car is still running strong with over 30,000 miles on the conversion. If you want to talk or see the car let me know.

You can have movement up/down and not have it left/right. Left/right could be bearings, ball joints or tie rod ends. Up/down is most likely bearings. They can look good and still be bad. If you torque them properly and still have the movement then you need to check the spindle real closely for damage and, if you don't find any, put a new set of bearings in.

Think of the body of the car as one big electrical wire. You will note that the negative (-) side of your battery is attached to it. All the electrical components have a wire from the positive side of the battery going to them and most then have a wire that connects to the body in some way. A few systems have both hot and ground wires but most just connect to the body and the electricity finds its way basck to the battery through the body. If the component (dash, engine, tail lights, etc.) aren't properly "grounded" then the current does not flow and systems don't work. If you have a multi-meter then you would: 1) check the voltage across the battery termnals. It should read about 12.6 volts. 2) check the voltage at the supply side of the component you are wanting to power. It should read 11.8-12.6 volts. You check it by touching the red lead to the component wiring and the black lead to a solid metal point on the car or, preferrably, the negative terminal on your battery. If it doesn't you have something in the circuit eating your voltage - find it by testing sat points between the component and the battery positive terminal. 3) check the voltage on the 'ground' side of the component. It should read close to '0' volts. If it doesn't then you have something on the 'ground' side eating your voltage or an 'open' - IE: the ground side is not connected. Again - follow the wiring with the multimeter until it finally reads '0'. The problem will be between the point where you were still getting a voltage reading and the '0' reading.

How good are you with a multimeter? You need to run a voltage test to see where the problem occurs. Remember - the grounds are as important as the power leads.

I fully understand PMI principles. My real point is that you need to know where you are to correctly determine what you need to do to get to where you want to be. If you're truly worried about PMI then why move the battery which is not all that far from the cars center and leave the fuel tank/cell out behind the rear wheels? I was able to get my car corner weighed while the transplant was underway and the JCI kit components were being designed. That is one of the reasons the JCI motormounts shift the engine slightly toward the passenger side. It allows room for exhaust and steering on the driver's side plus helps offset the driver's weight. The ECU can be easily mounted in the battery area or under the dash near the heater blower. Mine is in the latter because it gets it inside the cabin and reduces it's exposure to the elements - especially the heat of the engine bay. The T56 is a monster transmission compared to the Datsun T5 that was originally in the car. It is significantly heavier and, because of it's size and location, it shifts the cars weight bias toward the rear. Also be advised that about 70% of the driver's weight will be carried by the rear wheels. This was another fact I discovered by weighing the car multiple times. Of my 240 lbs, 180 went to the rear wheels and 60 to the front. A shorter, person who would have the seat farther forward would have less weight bias toward the rear. Lots of variables if you're building a track car.

Why not the supercharger kit offered by GM? Designed to bolt right on and gives a legitimate 40% boost in HP at conservative pressures.

What are you looking for in the way of weight distribution? Have you weighed your car as it is? The LS motor is lighter than the L28. My '77 280Z was 1400/1400 front/rear before my conversion. After converting to the LS1/T56 it was 1400/1430 front/rear - with the battery still in it's original postion. Additonal work on the car - sound proofing, stereo system, roll bar and strut bars boosted it to 1440/1560 front rear - with the battery still in the front. Why move the battery? If you are looking for that 50/50 weight distribution you will be moving the wrong way.

If I remember correctly the 240Z has a 2-row radiator. Is yours original? The 280Z has a 3-row radiator. My LS1 conversion uses a 280Z radiator recored to a 4-row with the fans & shroud from the Z28 donor car. Never have a bit of overheating problem under any conditions. If you are marginal you might shop a use 280Z radiator. It will significantly improve your cooling over the 2-row 240Z unit.

No - the 1977 280Z did not come equipped with a fluid level warning sensor on the master cylinder reservoir. I believe that was first included on the 280ZX. If you buy an aftermarket master cylinder for the car it will have those senors in the reservoir covers but there is nothing on the car to plug them into.

Looks like it does a great job of transmitting power without binding at some decent angles - as long as you have enough space available for it. It's not exactly compact compared to the other two.

Your ebrake light will come on if the brake is on or the switch is defective - BUT - the light will also come on if there is an imbalance in the braking system due to air in the brake lines, a leaky wheel cylinder, etc. It's time to pull the drums in the rear and look for leaks plus purging the lines and refreshing the brake fluid.