dts300z

Quick google search got me this http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/s-5-nissan-350zg35.aspx

Not so much looking for information for me... I was just looking for more of a detailed breakdown for those whom might be interested in tackling the swap. It looks like you did a jam up job and some more pictures and a little write up would be cool. I know you were talking about utilizing the Z32 transmission right? I'm sure they sell an adapter plate for that as it is probably pretty common to use that tranny behind the SR20DET since sr trannys are not as stout.

Looks great! How about a breakdown of your setup...

Ok, I boxed in the subframe with some 1/8" plate and welded everything up. I still need to work on the girdle for the back of the differential but the front mount is good to go. The picture has an optical illusion and the holes look cocked but they aren't. I will keep the updates coming as I make progress. OH and sorry about the bad camera phone picture... I'll get some more pictures of the differential mounted in its new home...

Awesome I can't wait to see the results... Good luck!

Well one more thing to hold me back just a little bit longer till completion. I have been bouncing back and forth on what I was going to do for the gearing in the rear end. I have finally made a decision and I'm sticking with it... . I have decided to modify the sub frame to accept a 350z differential that so happens to have the perfect gearing (3.35:1) for my tire size I'll be running (26"). So far I have yanked out the sub frame and cut it up a little to make room for the wider footprint between the ears on the 350z diff. As seen below in the comparison picture. You will also notice the the height of the ears are different as well in comparison from the centerline of the pinions and this will also be addressed. 300z on the left and 350z on the right Here is the cuts I've made so far to make a little room. You can see in this picture the difference between the rear covers and unfortunately they won't swap. 350z left and the 300z right The plan here is to mill down the cover around the perimeter bolts so I can design a girdle to replace the missing mounting point. It so happens that the one bolt lines up perfectly and will provide a point of origin for the differential. Unfortunately this diff is an open diff and well lets just say I stopped at spools-r-us on the way home... and since this is not an everyday driver it will be fine for my application. No worries I still have a little more welding to do on that...

That looks great! Nice welding!

It was running again for a little while and I decided I was going to swap a 350z diff into the sub frame for a better gear ratio. 3.35:1 > 4.08:1 (I am going to do a detailed how to on this but it does take a lot of cutting and welding lolol nothing we aren't used to) It's come a long way since the dyno but I haven't tuned on it yet... changing things around keeps me from finishing it and you know how that goes. Here's a link for you -----> http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141130

looking good man!

Happy B-day!

That thing scoots!

I assume that was with you in it. If not I am very surprised. If you still have the car I would be interested what it weighs on a set of corner scales. Yea I probably was but I just think that when you tell someone that they should probably start with a different platform because you might think it is a tough swap doesn't mean it will be for them. Although I'm comparing this to my experience with the car. It took me 2 weeks to modify the transmission tunnel and firewall and that was in my spare time after work and over the weekend. This was also my first time working with sheet metal. Once I got everything I needed I had the car up and running a few weeks after that and again this was in my spare time also. The only thing expensive about the "Z32" is the engine that came in it. Everything else about that car is relatively cheap. Thats why a swap is a great solution. Trust me that swap makes that car sing and anyone that says otherwise is being silly. That car is no more complicated than any other car out there. They have a reputation for being complicated but that was only because the engine bay is so cramped and even then when you start moving things out of the way they are pretty simple. You are right about the swap being a little more difficult and other chassis having more room but it is one of the most gratifying feelings to have successfully completed a V8 swap in a Z32.

I would think you could find a roller in good shape for ~$1000. Just be patient and the right deal will find you. Its always good to have the drive train intact so you can have misc stuff you might need plus you get to re-coupe some of your money by parting out what you don't need. Good luck in your search!

BRAVO!! Great work! Makes me want a Z31.

^^^^ This is the post that started my rant. ^^^^ How on earth would you know what is better for someone else you don't even know. The swap has been done therefore it can be done. You do realize you just posted that on HybridZ. Maybe I'm overreacting and if so I apologize for my conduct.

Before you post you should consider your source of information. I have a 1991 NA slicktop, the lightest of the Z32 cars from the factory. I have done a V8 swap in my car, an LT1 to be exact and I had it on corner scales back in 2003 and it came in at just over 2850 lbs with a 1/4 tank of gas, crap piled in the trunk and all the factory crap under the dash. So minimal weight reduction and this was with the 4l60e transmission. Since then I've also swapped a SR20DET into the same car a few years later and corner scaled it in a completely different set of scales and it came in at 2750 lbs with a 1/2 tank of gas and again fully loaded. Now I have put the LT1 back in with lots of weight reduction but it does have a turbo kit on it but I would venture to guess it will probably weigh in at 2700-2800 lbs without driver. <----- please quote me on that too! When I get it over to the shop I'll throw it back on the scales and take pictures so everyone can put this to rest. Yes, some won't be as light but I promise you the only Z32 out there that weighs more or even close to 3800 lbs has alot of cargo meaning probably the 2+2 with 4 grown men in it. End Rant.

Yea your going to need a custom drive shaft along with custom mounts. There is no right or wrong way to do this swap as I have done it without modifying the firewall / transmission tunnel and my current setup now. The axles are pretty strong. I haven't broke one yet so we will see. The rear end is moderate in my opinion. I have broken 1 so far put that was after 140k miles and alot of track visits with ET streets with a 6 speed. I would recomend an auto if your going to have a lot of track use. A manual is good for toying around but really puts a beating on the rear end. It is truley a fun car though and it really hooks on the factory suspension at the track. I was cutting consistant 1.60 60' times with a manual. I expect when I get the bugs worked out of my current setup I will see a good drop in those times. Click on the build thread link in my sig and that should give you a good idea of what it takes to do the swap. You will be able to retain all the factory interior so no worries there.

If you look in the z32 section there is a sticky that has alot of useful information that will aid you in making your decision. There are several links to many build threads in there. Good luck and let me know if I can be of assistance! Dan link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150821

Just a little FYI the LT1 actually does fit better and it is easier to work with. You have a pretty one sided post there. I understand people have opinions and thats fine but to basically say that the LT1 doesn't or can't potentially make power is silly. There is nothing wrong with the opti-spark, it's not an engineering icon but it works rather well. Yes, it has its problems like any other distributer but there are several solutions for that out there i.e. standalone with a trigger wheel and some people are incorporating the LSx computer / harness with them now. People did make horsepower / torque before the LSx engine. The LSx engine is a great power plant so don't take this the wrong way I'm just trying to make it very clear every engine has its pros and cons.

Honestly, if you get a half cut you would be better off. With just the engine you still will most likely need to rebuild the turbos and you will also need all the plumbing, inter coolers etc... to do the swap. They are not that bad by any means though. Even with the half cut you need to check the turbos as they are usually not in good shape. Since you are auto I would suggest a 5 speed swap too so you don't have to worry with transmission issues down the road if you decide to start making big power. A TT swap will eat at your wallet if your not careful with your decisions. Your best bet for a complete swap is to find a a half cut with a 5 speed that way you are well on your way to having everything you need. Then you will need to find a clutch and brake pedal assembly and the all the hard lines of course then you could probably wrap it up from there. Just be careful to inspect everything very well before you install it in the car. Mainly the TURBOs... I have to stress that because they seem to have problems with all the compressor wheel blades being missing. -Dan

Pull the covers check the timing and see where it is at. If it is out more than a few teeth it probably bent a valve or 24. You are in a guessing game until you tear it down and actually do a inspection. It could be a number of things and yes the lifters a very prone to leaking down and making noise but if it was down just for the amount of time it took to do a T-belt that is not the likely cause. I would get it and do a swap! Good luck! Dan

I had a 60shot on mine back in 1999 to 2000 and it did pretty well. Had a best of 13.4 @ 105. I bumped it up to a 120 and it liked that too but you will probably need to go direct port so you don't get any nasty intake backfires. I never actually ran it on the 120 but my guess is it would have done pretty well.

Ok just an update. With a little guidance from the almighty Matt Cramer we got it fixed. It ended up that the VR sensor wires were backward... who would have thought it would even rev up let alone idle with the wires backwards. Well I chalked up another learning experience with this one. Thanks for the help!!! Videos will follow after a little fine tuning.

Ahhh good call! I'll try that this weekend when I get the new starter put in. I think I wore the other one out this past weekend. Thanks Matt!

Sorry for the lack of information... Engine: LT1 355 T-70 turbo Injectors: 60lb Trigger wheel: 36-1 with a Ford VR sensor (no EDIS) Coils: LS1 setup for wasted spark (modded by DIY) Narrow Band O2 (for now) I am tuning the fuel with a WB I borrowed MS2/Extra 2.0.1 firmware When I try getting it off idle its goes lean which I guess it could be going full rich or dropping spark all together. It seems like it is dropping spark since I can see the RPM drop to 0 then it picks back up and then it will clear up once I work it past that point off idle. It shows that in the log but I was just unsure what could be causing that weather it be timing or fuel.