dts300z

Ok here are a few pictures. Let me know if you want pictures of anything else so I can take them while it's apart. I will post up the findings and what will and won't work if anything works... lol. Left 350z Right 300z n/a 350z 300z n/a 300z n/a 350z 300z n/a (left) 350z (right) 350z (left) 300z n/a (right) 350z (left) 300z n/a (right) and the covers

You could be right about the internals being closer to the R230. I will get some definitive measurement tonight and post them up as I go. I saw a few FSM pictures of the Q45 and unfortunately I did not see the 90 model... I wonder if it uses a crush sleeve. With the larger companion flange I would assume the pinion is larger in diameter resulting in a larger bore for the rear bearing. Hmmmm this could work! Yes I saw those stickies and I think the 350z diff does look closer to the R230 in regards to the mounting ear spread. Although I think the case is only maybe 1/2" wider if that than the z32 n/a case. Measurements to come later... Thank you for the input Paul! On a side note I did find a bearing set that could be close if not a perfect solution for the rear pinion bearing from Grainger but I'm trying to stay with Nissan stuff in order to keep this a one stop shop...

Paul, I believe the Q45 and the Z32n/a have the same footprint. That is just a guess though. I just think Nissan wouldn't have changed the housing from that close of a year car but I could be wrong. I would be interested to see your findings. If you put a tape across the front mounting ears of the Q45 diff and it is around 6" cl bolt hole to cl bolt hole then I think it would be a bolt in solution as that is what the z32 n/a is. I will get the measurements of the diff cover bolts too. Yes I think you are right about the Q45 diff and it being easier, I just like doing stuff the difficult way... lol. That was another concern with the half shaft flanges being 6 bolt vs. 5 bolt. I think there could be a easy solution by just swapping the vlsd and then you could use the 5 bolt stub shafts, granted you will not have the beefier 6 bolt but I believe the 5 bolts are pretty tough too and will suffice. The whole problem with the 350z housing is that it's just a little wider then the normal r200 and finding a 2 bolt cover to fit it and into the z I think will be difficult. With the TT subframe you might be right just need to get some dimensions to verify the bolt patterns but that still leaves the rear cover issue but it might surely prove to be easier. I will post up some pictures and measurements tonight about the z32 r200 and the 350z r200. Thanks, Dan Lastly on a different note it might be possible that the companion flange for the 350z might fit the r230 out of the z32tt and might make the driveshaft a little easier in a swapping sense... dunno though just a thought.

OK I'm making some progress and I'm trying to find some dimensions for the rear pinion bearing for a Q45. This is just a guess but the Q45 bearing could be the ticket. I need a little help! Does anyone work for Nissan / Infinity that can find out some dimensions for the inside diameter of the bearing and the outside diameter of the race for the rear pinion bearing? The solution for the front bearing is to use the 350z bearing and pinion seal. Yes this will require the use of the 350z/Q45 companion flange. I believe the 350z has the same companion flange as the Q45 and that would lead to a larger diameter pinion and thats why I think the rear pinion bearing might work. The whole problem with the 350z case is it is a little wider than the z32 case preventing the rear cover swap... dunno why. Also the rear pinion bearing out of the 350z case is alot larger in diameter plus the front mounting ears like mentioned above are too wide. So basically I think if you use the 3.35:1 gear set with the corresponding front bearing and pinion seal plus the Q45 rear pinion bearing and the z32 case plus vlsd will work in theory.... Any comments or suggestions please!

Ok! I'm working on a solution for this problem. It's time to find some bearings. I might be able to make up the difference on the pinion by finding some different size bearings. This might involve turning down the pinion shaft diameter in order to make it work but I will exhaust every bearing manufacture before I go this route. I just need to check a few more things and I'll post up the findings with some pictures and specific details of how to go about this little project. It may interest few but it will be a good addition to the HybridZ database.

I chalked up another learning experience today. I just received a R200 open diff today and I decided to yank mine and attempt a diff swap. The internals as far as the diff is concerned are the same at least they appear to be (bearings, width, ring gear bolt pattern, bolt size etc...). The pinion is totally different, it uses a crush sleeve and is a lot larger in diameter on the shaft and uses a much larger bearing set. Also on the outside of the case the front mounting ears are at a 7" spacing v.s. the 6" spacing like the Z32 not to mention the companion flange is also larger like the Q45. Just a guess but I would say it looks almost like it would fit the z32tt sub frame and be a almost easy swap minus the companion flange situation which could be cured with a custom drive shaft. I will try and put up some pictures for reference if I can muster up some drive after this expensive learning experience. So the long and short if anyone needs a 3.35:1 g35 or 350z diff I have one for sale... lol.

I hooked up the line lock today… I used a main activation switch and 1 switch is for just the front and the other is for both front and rear. I set it up this way to give me better staging and to be able to load the drive train a little better. I also installed the tranny cooler and lines. Lastly I ran into a little snag with the transmission. The aluminum boss crack when I torqued down the front pump… what a bummer and one stripped out. Oh well looking for a new case now. I now have a new hole to fill in the back of the car… lol. I got bored and I couldn’t drive the car so I decided to cut on it instead. Just so you know this was a spare tire well. For the time being I’ll use this gained area for a single muffler with dual tips.

I would love to try and make it... hope to have it road worthy in a few weeks.

Alright I got it idleing good! Here is a little taste of poor quality video at its finest... lol.

Alright I got it idleing good! Here is a little taste of poor quality video at its finest... lol.

Thanks I appreciate it! Well I just got it to fire on all 8 last night. I kept trying to crank it this morning and it looks like I fouled out the plugs last night during the trying to get it to run process... lol. So hopefully I will have some more progress in the next few days. The only thing that is holding me back now is the transmission, I just got done putting it together yesterday and as I was torquing down the last front pump bolt it split the boss in the tranny. Now I have to find another transmission case... lol oh well.

OK I screwed up! I rechecked my wiring to the coils and it looks like I had 1 too many budlights during the wiring process. I accidentally swapped the coil wires for some reason. Brain fart sorry for the confusion. It hit on all 8 this time. Thanks, Dan

So I got the car to fire off... and I noticed it sounded pretty weak. So thru further testing I have found out that one coil was not firing. I then proceeded to check the wiring to that coil to be sure it was connected to the module and there was no problems there. I then swapped the coils to see if it was the coil and the problem stayed with the same cylinders. My question is... is it possible that half of the module is gone out? I did do a little something different with the wiring to the coils that SHOULDN'T affect their function. I mounted the coils on the center of the valve covers and I wired it so the corresponding coils would fire with the center two cylinders on both sides. So essentially this should be fine and not the root cause. Thanks, Dan

pm sent.

You can use this puller http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=PBI&MfrPartNumber=648436&CategoryCode=3497 You can look around for a specific puller for the LT1 but I use the one above and I insert a long 1/4" extension into the bolt hole for the puller to push against. I don't advertise my installer as it is not a good practice... lol. There is a keyway on the crank just not one in the hub. I could sell you my extra one but you might look at the JEGS hub as it is keyed and a very nice piece for a decent deal. I picked one up. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&N=0&Ntt=lt1+hub&Ntk=all&Nty=1&D=lt1+hub&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchpartial&Dx=mode%2Bmatchpartial&searchTerm=lt1+hub

I have a spare 95 lt1 F-body hub. I noticed the difference when I was mocking up some parts on my spare caprice lt1. As for swapping out the hub if you have the right puller you won't run into problems here. Note that it will also require an installer as well. They are not that difficult I have done several. Just be sure you index the crank correctly. You will notice on the hub/balancer that there is a casted in triangle between two of the ears, this little triangle should be pointing to the keyway in the crankshaft. Pretty simple really.

^^^^and thats the man to listen too ^^^^

Awsome!! Looks like you got it figured out. I can't wait to see some build progress. The BFH will be your best friend on this one.

awsome! How much power/torque?

On the other hand I have done the swap with an LT1 successfully click the link in my sig that says build thread. It is also turbocharged. Granted it does not run since I'm still rebuilding the engine but it will soon. I initially did this swap back in 2003 with an LT1 without modding the firewall. This time around same car after I took out the sr20det I modified the firewall and trans tunnel to make more room in front of the engine and for better weight distribution. FYI the thread you quoted was not by me. I'm pretty sure that is someone else on this board that is working through the details of the swap. You said the engine bay would be tight with an LS1 . This is an LT1 but it is close enough size wise and there is plenty of room. I'm not trying to give you a hard time but most of the people that come on this site are looking for a positive push. Ohhh and finally don't listen to people that say listen to people that do...

WOW!!! that looks like a handful.

If you are willing to go that route I have a build thread that my be of help. Just click the link in my sig.

gmprojectz, I don't personally have experience with an LS1 swap into a Z32 but there are a few threads on this site that maybe of help to you. I would suggest finding the few that have done the swap and ask them what it entails and what they would do different now that they have finished. BRAAP is working on test fitting several engines in the Z32 and has documented the areas of conflict if any http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142025. I would read through this thread to get you started. I know there are a few guys that have done the swap just look around and I'm sure they would be helpful to you in your choice. Now if you want to drop an LT1 in that thing I've got a build thread going with some ok info. I'm sure you can get it done without too much heart ache but you will have to get creative if you choose to keep A/C and heat but I assure you it CAN be done. Good luck!!

Not trying to be rude but have you done a LS1 conversion in a Z32?

Nice work!