2eighTZ4me

I have an inline sensor bung that is mounted on the inner fender well. I come out of the motor > remote oil filter > oil temp sensor > oil thermostat > oil cooler > back to the inlet on the block. I too have a Spal puller fan on the radiator, however, my oil cooler sits about 4" in front of the radiator, so I would imagine airflow from the fan would be somewhat deprecated due to distance. The fan only kicks on when water temp reaches 195 degrees - which it never gets to when I'm running on the track - usually stays right at 190, so the fan doesn't kick on until I get back into the paddock after taxiing down pit lane out to the paddock.

Well - it was John Williams (our buddy!) who suggested that I might have a bearing clearance problem that might be causing the high temps. Maybe he's such a cool cat that his oil doesn't run as hot as ours! It was 95 degrees ambient under full sunlight all weekend. 140 degree asphalt temps. Not pleasant racing weather to say the least! Also - do you guys change your oil after every track event? I've heard it's a good practice, and after 8 sessions b/t Sat. and Sun., I would think the heat cycling would break it down a lot quicker than normal day-to-day.

After about 2 laps around Road Atl. at speed, my oil temp reaches 250 and stays there for the remaining 7 or so laps. I have an external B&M oil cooler mounted in the front of the rad., plumbed with -10AN lines and through a Mocal thermostat. I was told by a racer friend of mine that that might be just a little on the hot side. What do you guys normally reach under full load and haulin' azz?

John - that was my gut feeling. My goal is to become an instructor and get my track days for free. I think they want you in there paying the $400+ per event, so they keep you in a class as long as they possibly can. Thanks for the tips!

I've done 2 SCCA PDX events, one NASA event, a Panoz Racing track day, numerous Autocrosses (15+), and some karting events. I have my next NASA event this weekend. I'm still "stuck" in HPDE 1, watching the other drivers in this class miss braking points, turn apexes, proper line etc. I am constantly stuck behind these folks that "freeze up" in a situation and do some really stupid things, not to mention neglecting point-by passing when someone is on their tail. This is rather frustrating to me, as I've got a reasonable amount of seat time, know the flags, practice the proper line, am aware of other cars etc. That's why I'm faster than most folks in HPDE 1. What does one need to do to move up to the next class? I can't count the PDX events in NASA, as SCCA doesn't really want to fill out a NASA logbook. Should I just sign up for HPDE 2 at the next event? I've had one of the best instructors this past PDX event (John Williams) and videotaped everything and have watched it ad-nausem, taking in every detail. I'm not so sure some instructor from another state, who has maybe 1/100th the track time at Road Atlanta as John, will be of much help to me. My last instructor was half my age, and dinged me pretty hard on some things that John said I was doing well. I'm beginning to see that this is a rather subjective area. So - what DOES it take to move on up? There's no place in the logbook that says "this driver is certified for HPDE 2" etc. etc.

It's a Ron Davis unit with side tanks that I couldn't bring myself to poke a hole in for fear of screwing it up. The mounting bung fits perfectly in the back of the head, so I'm just going to roll with that for the time being and keep a wary eye on temps and when the fan kicks on.

I have a switch in the cockpit such that I can disable the fan completely (or can leave it running after shutdown if I choose) I think that will alleviate the issue that you're seeing. Different situation - but yes - I certainly see your point. I'd have a hard time with my gut poking a hole in a $550 radiator....

That's my line of logic as well. As it so turns out, the bung adapter for the sensor fits perfectly in the outlet at the back of the head, so I think we've found a solution. Thanks for the replies guys! Anyone else think this is a bad idea - please speak up now or forever hold your peas......

I've got a fan relay that kicks the fan on at a certain temp. Problem is, the sensor is a 3/8"NPT size. I've used up the one large bung in my thermostat housing for my temp gauge. Would it be a "bad idea" to port this fan switch sensor at the back of the head? The car doesn't have heat and I've plugged off the rear head outlet and the corresponding front water neck return. Those are the only places available that would be large enough to stick in the sensor without having to go "custom". I'm thinking the front cover might not be such a good location, as water from the radiator that has just been cooled flows through there - might not give an accurate temp reading for the coolant overall - but maybe the rear water port on the head would?

This is rich!! I offer the guy $200 for the car - he says he doesn't want to sell it - well would you lookee here..... http://atlanta.craigslist.org/pts/1273520024.html Bah - I've got enough on my plate anyways.... come 'n get it!!

I have the Z32 4 piston calipers up front on my 240 - running the 17x8.5's and they clear just fine. Not sure of the caliper placement on a S13, but I do know that mine clear.

Actually - I have a friend that's looking for a shell. He's got good welding skills, and lots of connections for metalworking services. He's been wanting a Z for a while now, so if I could get it at a decent price - he'll probably take it.

That's a good one! Thread - valve cover bolts - eh... maybe I'm the only one that got it. No - valve cover bolts are 6x1.0 and about 2" long - maybe a little less. 35mm maybe. Don't have one in front of me - but they are for sure 6x1.0 thread pitch.

I'll give you $200 for it and haul it away this weekend.....you sign a bill of sale - done!

OK - nobody can seem to answer this over on ZCar.com. They're too busy asking about if "a V8 swap is worth it, or should I turbo my car..." Great stuff under a Technical discussion heading.... I want to use the thermotime switch bung in the thermostat housing for a fan switch sensor. Anyone know what the size and thread pitch of the thermotime switch is? Searched and could not find. Don't have a spare switch lying around to measure. Tkx!

Rules imposed by certain sanctioning bodies require a catch can. That'd be the only reason. Other than the "bling" factor....

Rust and prior wreckage is what you should focus on. Most everything else can be replaced. (at a price)

Had the car corner balanced on Friday (2465lbs. soaking wet) with a 49.9 / 50.1% cross measure in the end. Had some time left over before my wife would turn me into a pumpkin....and it was lunchtime....and the dyno at the shop next door was unoccupied.....and the dyno guy owed a favor to my friend who did the corner balancing......you get the drift. But damn - it was hotter'n a firecracker. VERY pleased with the tuning and jetting I had done on the car prior to dyno'ing it. Folks - you just can't live without a wideband 02!!

Give me a shout when you get down here - I can try to come by and offer some pointers. PM me and I'll shoot you my cell #.

Hmmm - I see your point - we were in the latter situation. The guy purchased the car from a car lot and they didn't give him a title. He never had one in his name. THAT's why they wouldn't give him one.....ahhhso... So - maybe this guy does have a chance. I hate dealing with the DMV - no matter what state. Again - my apologies for the bad etiquette.

I'll check with my friend. I'm pretty sure he has a set. I will see him tomorrow. PM me on Monday, as I'll be out of the office tomorrow and won't be checking mail until Monday.

My apologies Pharoahabq - yes - that did come off a bit harsh. I only reiterated that fact because I had a guy drive down from Virginia 2 weeks ago to buy a car that I was helping someone sell. The deal was almost done until the buyer said "OK - go get the title and let's do this". The owner turned white as a ghost. NO TITLE. So here I am - embarrassed for the owner, and feeling sorry for the guy that drove 9 hours to come get the car. It was a bad situation. Much research was done over the weekend. The buyer went home empty handed, and I got screwed in the deal (i.e. no $$$ for services performed) The owner went to the DMV that Monday and they refused to give him a title. Just as the research we did over the weekend corroborated. But as stated earlier - you most certainly can register and drive the car in the state of Ga. with just a bill of sale. Selling it out of state, or registering it in another state is a different story.

What part of "You can't get a title in Ga. for ANY car from 1963-1985" didn't you understand? I can tell you from (bad) experience I went through 2 weeks ago that you cannot, will not, and shall not be granted a title for ANY car between those age ranges. It's just not gonna happen. Mechanic's lien, doctor's note, act of Congress, special pardon from Barack Obama - nothing will get you a title for a vehicle in the state of Ga. Period. Only way to do it is register in another state.

Hmmm - well - gotta get the condenser blown out and cleaned up first off - and then that all goes out the window when I put in the turbo setup with that fat daddy AZC intercooler in front of the whole shootin' match. Tempted to just bucker up and install the AZC radiator this weekend and horse with moving the AFM and see how that works for a week or so. It's just so dang hot down here, working on cars is not in the Top 10 list!