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That would be my guess, as I have 4 of those exact same bolts in my bin from when I bought a diff off a guy from a 280ZX. I had to remove the diff from the rear crossmember, and remember those bolts quite clearly. Heck - if the car is together, keep them as spares!

Are they 10x1.25 thread? I'm also assuming by your handle that your car is a 77? More than likely, they are the bolts that attach the front diff mount to the diff itself. Although, that's only 2 bolts. You have 4. On a ZX, there are 4 of those sized bolts that hold the diff to the rear member. Need a little more info.

What do you need done by Sunbelt? I know the guy Jeff Hankin who used to do all the machine work for the L-series engines. He has a shop up in Sugar Hill now. A NICE shop. Just did an L20B head for my buddy's 510. Can put you in touch with him if need be.....

Unfortunately - it's not MSA. MSA gets their pads from the same place that everyone else does - Nissan Competition. I ordered 3 sets from the Nissan dealership for a L20B I'm building, and almost all of them had rust on them. It's inherent in the way they're stored in the warehouse. They're not dipped in oil or treated in any way. It is what it is and that's what you get. Hit them with an abrasive or a wire wheel to knock the rust off and move along. Dip them in oil if you're going to store them. Once they get in the motor, they'll be soaked in oil and won't rust period....

I was able to find a few locally. Thanks for all your replies!

Need 2 or 3 oil slingers (goes on the front snout of the crank just inside the timing cover). Machine shop seems to mysteriously "misplace" them. Used my last one last night and have 2 more motors in the wings. PM or respond to this ad. Thanks!

"go to your mill" -- That's funny!! Sorry Bryan - what you say does make sense, but I don't have any machining equipment (other than a die grinder!). I'm just trying to find if either situation (as it sits) is going to be more beneficial over another. I haven't ordered pistons yet, so I'm trying to determine which route to go. I'm not going for a 500hp motor, I guess I'm just trying to find out what type of piston to order to match the rods. Flats with a lower pin height, or dished with a higher pin height. I don't want to make this any more complicated than it probably is already! I do value your input though - and thank you for the reply - I'm not loaded with $$$ or technical expertise on engine building - that's why I'm asking you guys. I just want to order a set of pistons and be done with it.

Building a turbo motor that I hope to see 20psi + boost. F54 block, p90 head with mild port work. Stock crank. - I have 240Z 9mm rods at 133mm in length that I will be using. - Stock 280 rods are 130.35mm, leaving a difference of 2.65mm. - Stock pin height = 38.1mm. - 38.1mm - 2.65mm = 35.45mm pin height. - I am going to be ordering a set of forged slugs. - I am also going to be running MS for engine mgmt. This means I am going to have to order pistons with a +/-35.45mm pin height. Now here's the dilemma. Turbo pistons are dished with a 10.6cc dish. Would I be better off getting dished pistons and a 35.45mm pin height OR get flat tops and have them make the pin height an even 35mm? (or less) Advantages / disadvantages of one route over the other? Don't want terribly high compression due to boost, but was thinking that either of these two methods may/may not be equally effective. Two methods to "skin the cat" so to speak..... Dished pistons with proper pin height would traverse the entire bore. Flat tops with a lower pin height would traverse "most" of the bore, but would stop short of the actual block deck by a hair or two. Am I off my rocker for even thinking like this? (Don't ask my wife!!) Thoughts?

Do your carbs have the "bar" style triple linkage that hooks to the factory arm? I'm guessing not since you want to go the cable route. I ordered the bar linkage setup from Wolf Creek and scavenged parts off 240's and 280's (firewall brackets) and fabbed up an arm for my 240. Works like a champ. We're doing my buddy's 510 right now with the pull style cable linkage. He ordered a 24", but it just looks a little too short. Depends on where you intend to attach the cable. (directly to the pedal etc.) If you run off the linkage outside the firewall, a 2 footer should be sufficient. You might be good to get a piece of string and route what you "think" will be your cable path. Then just measure how much string you ate up, and that should give you your answer.

Robert (or anyone who knows Robert - tell him) - please contact me via PM. I just received your payment from January for the companion flanges and half shafts. It was sent to the wrong address and it finally got here. Need to know what you want me to do.

Yes - when they deck the block, it creates metal shavings. That stuff can get down in your motor and ruin it if you were to attempt to do it with all the internals in it. You'll have to completely dismantle the motor down to the block and take the machine shop just the block. Don't know how the machine shop would even be able to mount the block on the lathe table with the oil pan on it! So yes - it must be completely disassembled.

Rubber pallet....baow baow baow.....sorry - I couldn't resist! Actually, I find a dead blow urethane hammer works well in this situation. Rubber pallets (mallets) absorb too much of the shock.

Unless your block was heated up really bad, chances of it warping are far slimmer than the head. Aluminum is far more subject to heat than cast iron. So, unless your block is warped from a previous mishap, chances are it is ok now. May want to check with a straight edge. You can do that with it in the car. As far as decking the block, you'll have to pull it out and get it apart and take it to the machine shop. No way to do it with the block in the car.

Jon - I'm running a 3.70 R200 LSD. I have the Arizona Z Car rear lower control arms as well. I've also got a set of adjustable front LCA's being made right now. I read through Coffey's alignment setup tips - he had ride height set to about 7" in the rear for 245 and larger tires. That's right about what I have currently. Spring rates are mid 300's all the way around. I will be revisiting the alignment once more when I get my new front LCA's installed though. Do appreciate all your advice, and it has forced me to go back through the alignment posts and relearn what was once embedded into the noggin'!

Give Kim a shout - I ended up with the 17x9.5 rears and a pair of 17x8.5 (+4) up front - same deal - same price shipped to my door. I'm sure he'd cut you a deal on the 16's - can't hurt to ask.

Haven't pulled the plugs yet. Doing that tonight. No dizzy. Electramotive crank fire ignition. Motor has less than 500mi. on it. No coolant loss. Hmmmm - guess I better put the leakdown tester on it.....and triple check the jets. Thanks guys....

A reknowned ITS racer friend of mine staunchly believes in leaving the smaller valves in his old E31 heads, as it increases flow velocity, and not so much volume. He's won many championships in his class over the 30+ years of racing / building he's been doing. I kind of trust his word. I left the stock valves in my MN47 (had a bunch of port work done though) and it has plenty of giddyup...

#4 and #5 exhaust are white as a ghost. Same sized jets across the board. Car doesn't miss a lick, runs great. Any ideas? And yes - I've fixed the exhaust leak....

Beautiful car - very respectable numbers. You'll be happy with that for sure! And throw in a little Iron Maiden at the end of the video for us old-timer metal heads - you got yerself a winner!

I have a camber problem such that when lowering the ride height causes a real bad negative camber problem. Even with the Ground Control camber plates, I can't dial in enough positive camber to keep from eating up tires on the street. Had I had a chance to put the slicks on and get in some dry track time, I would have dropped the ride height a bit, but since it was wet and rainy all weekend, I just decided to leave it alone. Jon - what do you recommend for ride height? I've got some adjustable front lower control arms being made, so I should be able to correct the camber issue and the ride height issue at the same time.

Belts are brand new - good until Nov. 2010. I have John's old driver's suit. He says there's no expiration on that - so I "think" I'd be good to go. Money's a little tight right now however, so I doubt I'd be able to make it. What's the cost anyways?

It's 1.5" diameter but not sure of the wall thickness. It passed John Williams' tech inspection for NASA, but not sure if SCCA has more stringent rules. There's a few things that I'm pretty sure SCCA mandates that I currently don't have. Top that off with the fact that this is my first "logged" track event - I'm a ways away from a TT license! Love to come play though - but they won't let me in the "big kids'" sandbox just yet!

Well - the car has finally returned home to the track! Crappy crappy weather though.....about 38 degrees both Sat. and Sun. and rain rain rain. Didn't even get a chance to put on the slicks even though we got a couple good runs at the end of Sunday afternoon. Watched a lot of people wad their cars up into the wall over the weekend. I was extremely nervous about taking a car that I've never driven at speed to a wet (I mean sopping wet!) racecourse. Ended up spinning coming out of turn 5 once (got a little tail happy in the wet when on the gas) and that was the only driving mistake all weekend. One really weird thing happened though. Very first lap on very first session coming out of 7 going down the back straight, my passenger side windshield wiper just LEFT the vehicle at about 60mph. I drove to the track at 70+ in the rain with no problems. Get on the track and at a lower speed - whooof - there it goes! WTF!!!??? I was only in HPDE1 group and at the end of Sunday, they let us run with the HPDE2 folks. Ended up spanking about half of them. Boy that puts a big grin on your face an on the inside. Nary a mechanical problem all weekend (save for the wiper incident). Didn't even lift a wrench all weekend and the car performed flawlessly. So here she is - back at doing what she loves doing. Two weeks prior to race weekend - at the SCCA Nationals. With the new Rota RB-R's (17x9.5 rear -23 offset, 17x8.5 front +4 offset). Note: the feline was not harmed in the taking of this picture - although he DID beg for food incessantly and threatened to pee on my tires. In the pits prior to a Sat. afternoon run. Coming down through the esses approaching the NEW turn 4 that they setup for the motorcycle guys. They're TICKED off about it. Damn near impossible looking turn that kills ALL momentum going through the esses. Coming out of 10a toward 10b. So there ya have it. Got a few things necessary to button up the car the way I want it. Tranny mount rubber is split. Having John Williams weld it solid. Having the car corner balanced, putting on the new Nismo header, fix exhaust mount that broke during the event. And getting RID of that God awful hot water heater blanket that I laid in over the tunnel. It's shredded after this weekend. Hoping to hit the Barber event in May..... Cheers to all!!

That's mighty clean for that many miles! Duly impressed I am!! I'm in the process (tonight) of fabbing up my catch tank. I ended up buying one from Pegasus. I have one fitting that should be there when I get home and I can finish the process. I will document it with pictures as well. I'm teeing both the valve cover and the block to the catch tank. Nothing fancy - but rather expensive since I decided to stick with the Aeroquip theme....