PMC raceengines

Yes there is a nice spot to fit the picup behind the starter all very neat , and yes the timing is so stable , it the best way i have tested so far

Most flywheels are around 500 to 600 and can be made to any clutch , but we dont try sell them, we like to fit them to my builds . We build a new one now with the timing pickup in them, there a real nice thing , but SW in nsw and jim also sell them and there made very well

We make 6 difrent flywheels for datsun L motors from 5.5 in twin plate to 7in tripple plate setups and 2 single setups Then theres SW motor sport he will make you any part you can dream up , he also makes gearboxs up for the L race motor he is in NSW Then there is jim bery in your state be can make a clutch that uses your stock flywheel , he makes a works style cluch for rally cars i have run them in 235hp L20 rally engines and had no problems , he builds great clutchs ,

I just dont know why you would want to , there is 4 brands off L flywheels hear with any size clutch you want , and there the same price as a RB one , just use the right part and you dont need to mod any part , or play with throw of the clutch , makes no sence to me sorry ,

Just because you can bolt it on dont make it right , yes people do it , but its not the right way to do it , if you check the ring gear and starter you will find it damaged after a short time , and then you need a difrent thrust , just do it right there is heaps off clutches out there that will live in your L20

I build cranks and flywheels for both , you can trust me on this one , fit a good clutch on the right flywheel and you wont have to do it again for a long time

The flywheel is now 6mm away from the stock position , the rb crank is shorter than the a L motor crank by 6mm so the off set in the flywheel is made to sit 6mm away to make up for it , why not run a stock flywheel , saves heeps off problems

There is 6mm offset .your starter will not engage propely

Wade cams in aus have made NA cams for me many times, the turbo cams your looking at just are to mild in NA form , I started with 74deg cams and have moved up to 77deg on my NA twincam . the first cams were 296deg , now im 304 and 314 , with 13.5mm lift ,

This one has had a rb30 cas in it for the last 8 years still running strong . But things move on

I have done away with disys now , to get a good chatter free setup i made this

Its a billet disy with nissan 360 /6 disk and it works very well , but now they build it with magna v6 parts as there easy and cheep to get , and it works even better ,

We build them and have them made , at SCORCHER DISTRIBUTORS IN MELB .

Just to clear the air . pmc raceengines is not a shop and does not sell anything , its just my site name , I work for a datsun engine shop , yes i dont put its name up very often because i dont feel the need to , we dont sell parts , well sell engines for datsun race cars, i only put up pics and some info for fun and i know people like the pics we all do like to see race engines and some info about them, Do i give all data no ,,,, i dont because i work dam hard to find it and you did not pay for it , Did the kew twin idler cost hp , no did it make hp no was it needed no , if i shaved the head to far and the stock guide were not right yes you can use the kew twin idler , but i dont shave heads i build a piston to sute evey engine i build . The owner of this engine was told by the man that sold him the kew idler that it will make more power because the stock guides cost hp , i have tested this many times and i can say this is BS , the stock cheep parts work fine ,

Thats it for me on this site i give up trying to be nice to people

And yes the water pump made a huge difrance because the engine would not take timing as it got hot in the head . But you would know all about it im sure .

If you read it i said the dissy and msd was ok and was smother than other products and i was saying there was no point fitting the other parts as the nissan parts did the job , better than the aftermarket parts , i know you have there parts on your engine , good for you mate , i wont be on my engines , you can build them any way you want .

YES you are lol

Well i just finished the dyno work on this build , some things realy made me think ,,, why do people fit some things . this engine had a msd 6 with the programable ignition map, EWP, and twin idler gear setup , how did it go , well it was down 30hp on the normal engine we build and we tryed so hard to make it work ,i made many maps for the ignition and tryed jeting it till i was getting very upset , Power was 331hp at 6300 and fell over it would pull to 7700 no problem but lost 15hp , The engines before this went to 7500 before falling over but would pull to 8000 no problem making 360hp@ 7500 and 288ftlb at 5700 So after 2 days trying we said lets fit it with stock guides and our distributer and a stock waterpump , what happend First run with the same timing 12 to 34 , the engine went 365 and 8000 rpm , it left a line over the last engine on the dyno like it was ment to same torque as normal 288 and just went to 8000 like it was ment to , so dont wast your cash there is nothing wrong with the nissan guides and water pump , Would i use the msd again ,,, maybe it had a smoth torque run through 3000 to 5500 it looked smother on the dyno , there was not a lot in it .

It was i was trying to catch him lol he is a great driver ,

People have no idear how long the rockers have no oil on them on start up ,when the engine starts get the rpm up and make shore the timing is right then hold the rpm at 3000 to get the oil flow up to the cam , this is not a good time to start and stop the engine , try keep it running for 15 min at a good rpm , at idle the spray bar type engines have on oil on the cam , and also replace them if you have had a blow up as there is no real way off cleaning them , if you block a hole even a small amout the cam is dead .

I only build them for my race engines , there not for sale , im sorrry there one off the cool parts that make the race engine what its is , and i have not seen to many other shops with it , , I must say there not hard to make , if i can find a pic i will pm you .

From last week at the datsun nats at philop island gp track Gordon in his 240z L28 , 3 webers doing there thing

I would try polish it with scotch brite pads , and i would do the rockers that are damaged as well , then run it again and check it after 20 min runing time if it looks good then your fine , but if i had built it for a customer i would replace it with out thinking about it , just not how i do things. Just to not have a problem later is well worth the cost . This was a problem we had on race engines with spray bar N42 style cam , when we changed to internal oiling cams it hardly was seen again , on my full on race engines i make a oil spray bar that runs on the other side off the cam as well as the factory intermal setup .

i was looking at the first pics off the cam , you can polish the cam and rockers , but the damage is done its never good after it has galled up , the rocker has been over heated and needs to be resurfaced , there has been times when i have tryed to fix then to get thro a dyno sesion but its never good , at the end off the day if you fill your sump with metal from a cam that is failing .. it happens so fast, no lube on the rocker and its over just cranking a new engine to get oil up can do it