Modern Motorsports Ltd

BBF can work great, can make a HUGE gunshot sound when that dissimilar metal bond breaks!

"I am in the middle of the swap as well . I was wondering if you had to take any thing apart to get axles in .you answered that (you removed pin) " With car up on jackstands and rear stub axle/housing drooped it makes for a shorter length from companion flange to differential and a tighter squeeze. If you jack up your wheel/housing assembly so it's closer to horizontal you increase the lateral distance and thus installation room available between your companion flange mating surface and differential.

Sure, a few clicks and you're done Here's my package, even a few spacers anodized depending on which type you require. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=48

"I used the adapters for the SAE lines to the metric brake lines on the front Toyota calipers. Owen" ?? The calipers are metric as are the brake lines........where did you require metric to imperial adaptors Owen?

"I will just try out the 200lb springs and see how they work. If you say they are too stiff they probably are. GC made the recommendation and I went wit it. Because I'm going to add 200lbs to the front of the Z over the inline 6, would it make sense to use those springs up front? Perhaps use 150 lbs in the rear? " DanL, stiffer rear springs are typically used to combat squat with higher tq setups in addition to handling concerns. 200 is not too stiff for a tight street ride and is my rear starting point for customers with higher tq setups...........

Nice listing Mike, and yes you're right Terry. 240Z/280Z/300ZX hubs are all different in thickness and spacer requirements. My own spacers (all sizes on the shelf, some even anodized at present ) are made to fit hubcentrically to the hub perfectly and bolt holes are sized quite snug to specifically mate with the hardware used (ie. 10.5 noted above would be sloppy on mine). I'll have a pic of all 3 hubs up on my website shortly for reference at this location: http://Vented 4x4 Brake Package info

Mike, so the single inner CV allows anough compression/extension travel for proper function I assume? I'm not clear to where you're referencing your personal picture gallery, if you could point me to them I'd appreciate it. I have a few sets of R230 axles I'm intending to modify shortly and via your method would reduce my custom parts notably and thus pass on reduced costs to customers, win win for all! I'm already prepared to do a CNC run of adaptors similar (based upon) Mark Icard's adaptors (thanks for lending them Mark!). I prefer to avoid those bolted connections and use recessed pockets so the material can take the shear and eliminate the bolts and therefore reduce risk of more fasteners. Anyone wanting a deal on the adaptors, nail down the design for the other mounting pieces Do you have your overall design length for the axle? inner flange face to outer face of companion flange or similar? (I'll have one extra 4.06 R230 diff and axle set unspoken for) Thanks

As per my note above, either undo those two bolt to improve access to the piston by removing the floating hangar and use simple pliers, or get the cube. Good luck.

Done

Yes, it's been done by a few cars in Idaho that I'm aware of, similar to what you say. You could do it with a flanged portion for driveshaft re and re I suppose. I had one snap off at hubside while I was at an idle (bolts shook right out so that only 3 of the 6 were remaining after some high speed blasts during my grad degree when zero car maintenance was done). It slapped around hard just at an idle....I'd hate to have that happen at speed, it would definitly do some damage to control arm/brake line and ebrake as it nicked all three while I was just idling.

If you remove the outer 'hangar' and put some brake fluid lube on the dust seal, you can likely grabe the piston face edge with channel lock pliers or similar and then just progressively rotate it back into it's bore.......when first doing this watch to see if the dust seal rotates freely with it.....if not DON"T rotate it farther or you'll tear the dust seal...work it back and forth to free it up and once free then rotate the piston back in fully...save yourself a rebuild assuming the caliper was working fine before. Their is cube shaped tool with various pin combos to rotate various pistons in that I use with ratchets for good used calipers I've shipped (I retract them all to save customers the hassle). But for your own use pliers or a Robertson screwdriver will work fine. It is worth taking the hangar off (two bolts) to use pliers as they won't slip in the annoying way you may find a screwdriver to. Good luck! Be sure to bed in your new pads appropriately. I went thru 280ZX front pad/rotors very fast until I swapped to KVR's.....after that warping stopped and rotor wear was greatly reduced with all other functions greatly improved. If you're working them hard and have similar issues let me know and we can put the fine KVR pads on their and solve your wear issues.

No functional loss in torque with my Victor Jr IMO. I've used both an 8004 weiand previously and then a Victor Jr. carb setup on my 327 and now roller 350 and subsequently an EFI Vic. Jr. intake. With all 3 setups low rpm torque was never lacking, shreds tires (good ones ) from a 750 rpm idle with just an OEM like torque convertor with ease. The 327 was mildly cammed and so is my 350. IMHO they hype the Victor Jr. as race only moreso such that racers would not be running out to buy a 'truck' compatible intake etc. But local engine building gurus have run them on truck motors/mildly cammed for torque with great success and I've loved it on my sb builds as well. We're not driving lead sleds and I think some get too hyped on following build paths of quite different rides. I need a lot of driver input at low rpm's with my built 700R4 and sbc to keep it straight and under proper traction...I'd like to experience a 500hp Z at some point but certainly not for my daily driver 365 days/year. My control efforts required with my own moderate mill are enough for my needs

Up to you on your motor mounts. I sheared an aftermarket Sealed Power set within a few years and they were harsh. My pricey new GM mounts have a much better quality rubber in them and although pricey I feel they were worth it for my daily driver. Ron Tyler also thought a large part of his super smooth Lt1240Z was due to his OEM motor mounts (and high speed balanced aluminum driveshaft).

All you need for 280ZX V8 engine mounts are the common V8 Truck mounts and some flat stock (ie. aluminum)....cut the flat stock with a jigsaw or whatever to create shims for stacking and you just shim up the V8 mounts on each side (shims between block and mount, mount bolts directly to crossmember) and it all bolts up.....I might've had to drill one hole per side for the single bolt that I pass up and into the Chevy mount. Left side spacers are thicker overall than right. And if you need to alter details, I've found that jacking up the engine via a good board under the oilpan works fine without doing any damage in my experience, YMMV. Watch your fingers but swapping is quick in this manner. MSA's pieces look fine but more than is required. The single bolt that passes into the V8 mount is large and has PLENTY of shear strength. I've sheared motor mounts (cheap ones) and am now running the pricier GM mounts.

Guy, all timing chains (sbc anyhow) come with the gears. You just typically replace the set, gears and chain. GMPP has good one not so pricey as well AIR. But many to choose from and $50-60US lets you choose from many decent setups. I've got one or two extra sets now as I just swap in a new one routinely if I do any major engine work.....thought about making some clocks out of the 'old' ones now I recall you're stuffing in a HOT cam correct? I was just curious if you'd driven one before (HOT cam) and experienced the attitude

Besides air in your master or calipers.....he could have a caliper piston seal leak...at least one 4x4 customer has struggled thru a similar situation and it turned out the one caliper (cheap one from local auto shop he got) had a bad rebuild and was leaking like a sieve. Took him a while to notice it...even my massive front Xtreme's and rear CNC disk setup don't require a master change, you have more pedal travel but it's still within a reasonable range such that an MC change is optional.

Have you got very good grounds from battery to frame and frame to engine? I ran into that....relay would click but nothing from starter as engine wasn't grounded after one swap I did. We just used boost cables to create a quick ground/fire it up etc to confirm that was the issue.

Guy, these are the same headers I'm working with at present for my new exhaust setup.

10 or 12 mm is pretty much a non-issue IMHO, I've yet to hear of a ring gear bolt failure so have no fear of using 10mm setups......I'll make appropriate bushings for anyone in need when that time comes. Just an option and quite a simple one.

If TF's are angle plug make sure you understand your header solutions if that might be an issue. FWIW, my RPM's have been very good to me...their OEM springs aren't so hot but I replaced them a few years back and no issues with the comp cams replacement parts I used. I run a Victor Jr. and on both my 327 and my 350 they shredded tires right off of idle with no preload etc and mild cams. Just my .02c.

The actual forces their are not very great, but enough to allow the towers to shift and alter your 'ideal' suspension geometry. With strut tower braces it provides enough stability to keep the towers squared up and your suspension as it's been setup. Triangulation is best as it then squares it up completely. Open your hood and have a friend press down on your brake pedal sometime......watch the master cylinder.....you'll see it flex out quite noticeably It is surprising at first how many dymanics happily coexist as you drive your car....

Great ideas guys that I'll take to the virtual 'table' with my crew in discussion Britt, your racing coilovers went out today

rotrocketz you have mail. Bob, thanks for that thread I've been looking for it and I had missed the link their the first time thru. I'm thinking quite similar to that but as it'll be on the car adjustable I have to lengthen the hub side 'single' posts to incorporate a lh/rh turnbuckle. I'd prefer them to remain single action as shown in that link so toe adjustments don't put the threads in forced twisting. Just lengthen them enough to allow adjustment and not move that joint too far inboard where moments are increasing. Has anyone got any pics of installed arms with my CV adaptors as well? I'd love to see rear geometries back their for clearance issues etc. I've got pics without control arms in place with CV's that aren't of near as much use at present.

WIcked!!! Going out for anodizing tomorrow or Thursday, you're going to be stoked TUFFZ You'll also be happy with final rear c-arm design evolving/I've had some great online and offline input already PS Mudge et al, Full rear brake info is here on my webshop/and other links within the product show customer installs as well. Yes, functional and well done ebrake setup..and more advantages to large disks than just what was noted above...the more power you have within reason the easier it is too modulate it near the limit and maximize your potential.....we're not all F1 drivers and these tools really help!

Mike, just a quick note to say I'm sad to see you /ZFRS step out of the retail end. However I'm somewhat envious of the time you'll make available for your own car and other pursuits which I can totally understand. I know I don't have as much leisure time as I’d like and can really associate with what you’re relaying to us and appreciate your honesty. I've been quite interested in doing some suspension parts but have long respected your efforts and interests with hybridz so have stayed clear of 'most' suspension ideas I've had (I’ve done coilovers and non-conflicting 28ZX parts etc). You and I did talk ~ 1 yr ago about the possibility of myself making control arms etc if you stepped to another pursuit ( I think it was fiberglass at the time). I'm still quite interested and have some strong contacts in manufacturing for items such as the control arms. Additional suspension items would be an excellent natural progression for my Modern Motorsports Ltd. business. I’ve invested extensives energy, time, and money into the engineering progression/R&D for my brake setups (new Xtreme 13 inch 2 piece setups out and proven, email me if anyone is in need/not yet on website) and other products. I have had some interests from present customers for rear control arms different from those presently available and would enjoy putting in my own typical engineering effort with my ideas and those of others (including those of a recent thread) for my own unique MML designs. To date I've just deferred that interest and stayed committed to brakes. Is John and John initiating a new venture/or just using your jigs to make a few sets to fulfill prior commitments or........... Anyhow, just wanted to post a reply similar to the email I sent you and to pass on my best wishes for you (and envy) towards your other interests:) Keep the shiny side up Mike!