Modern Motorsports Ltd

As a follow up to Mike Kelly's announcement and some discussion I've had with Mike ZFRS closing out , I intend to design and subsequently offer up some new adjustable suspension items for the Z cars. Intent is to continue to make available items with same function as what Mike has finely offered to date. I have my own ideas on altering their design in some aspects but would greatly enjoy hearing from any others (many very versed in suspension attributes/engineering on this board as we know!) as these parts will be for your use and as such should meet your requirements and the easiest way is to hear your ideas/inputs and incorporate them into the design and function. Feel free to post here or email me sales@modern-motorsports.com .

Thanks for the endorsement Mike! Brainstorming sessions already underway, I've initiated a new thread for additional input/ideers! The new product line will be released in short order once we're satisfied we've covered all bases

Performance how so? For street/strip use or die hard road racing....I've got quite a variety, just KVR's on my site at present. They're a great street/autox pad with great stopping power than only increases if you take 'em hotter on the street.....and very friendly rotor wear. I went thru at least 3 other pads years back that just trashed rotor after rotor and now I'm hooked on the KVR's so distribute them as well. No idea on rears.....only removed drums/never set them up.

Thanks for the mention JT. Terry, I have a complete quaife package including a full rebuild on a good core, the quaife itself, and the setup of the quaife unit. You can read more on it here MML Quaife Package Info. Drop me an email, sales@modern-motorsports.com with any questions you may have. Availability of the powerbrute seems to have been spotty the last few years, it's basically a clutch type unit for which I don't recall the costs as it's been years since I'd priced them out. I priced a rebuild on a blown clutch posi R200 I had once, and the high price has deterred me from investing in new clutch units since. I'd rather invest that rebuild and setup money once with a higher degree of confidence. John on this board used to run a clutch type for racing and spent $$$ on a rebuild each season. He went to a quaife and is quite pleased with the biasing and reduced maintenance costs as I recall. I still love the clutch type units but they days of finding used units for lower prices seem few and far between.

Chase, interesting info....seems to jive with another oddity I came across elswhere......I don't have Z31 manuals or any parts cars to check out so to date the adaptors were made for specific customers and a set of axles supplied by one with his typically very technical/accurate info that they were from NA's. May be CD and US models differ slightly I don't know....but so far it's 4 bolts:) I wonder if the 6bolts are very similar to 280ZXT CV's?? (if not the same?!?!?!)

First off, as noted above, all R200's in Z's from 70's to 89 can accept the same R200 halfshafts inputs, CV or otherwise (except the rare viscous LSD/87-89 ivory white SE model). My typical CV adaptor uses 280ZXT axles. One customer wanted to use Z31 NA CV axles so I devised a CV adaptor for him to use....Chase is just planning to complete his install this weekend at which time he'll drop me feedback on how it went and how it drives.....I don't expect any issues but being a !#$! engineer we hold out till all is well proven before making it available broadband. I have a couple spare sets for Z31NA CV's here for early buyers. I know their are different PN's for various 84-89 CV axles, I have NA Z31 CV dimensions and would love to get some Z31 turbo CV dimensions for comparison........anyone?? On another note, Mark's R230 companion flange to R230 CV flange adaptor is enroute for me to check out and most likely replicate for use by others. It'll most likely be made for same length shafts as Mark has in use at present. So a few options.....I'd suggest using 280ZXT or NAZ31 CV axles unless you can send me some measurements (pics as well!) of Z31T axles for potential use.

RIGHT ON! I never even saw the original add or might've been very tempted myself.....seen a few of those blocks locally and they're sweet!! Enjoy

Yasin, your setup looks great. I just wanted to clarify my setup is not the same as Fonebooth's. I don't recall discussing my setup with you. No adapting required at all with mine for Illumina's/front/rear, your rears would have been somewhat unique. My website pic has been misleading as I haven't used the tall hat tops for sometime. Mine are 1/4" in thickness and therefore provide greater allowable suspension travel for same ride height. I've also been including custom lower tube perches for some time now that make for an easy and tidy install providing maximum room for wheels/tires, and I use the split ring lower adjustable perches Tomahawk praises so much Not quite the same is it? Just wanted to clarify as we each have our own unique differences. With regards to your setup, is that a bumpstop installed above your top conical spring hat? Maybe my eyes are off but appears to be a spacers of some sort above that hat, if it is your bumpstop it should be below the aluminum hat to retain the positive connection between your aluminum hat and upper strut mount. If I'm misreading your pic then great and my apologies. Here's a pic of mine FWIW and you'll see a few differences. The lower aluminum piece is the mystery piece a few may know it's function Sleeve pictured is an old stock UV faded piece.....mine are typically BRIGHT blue. If you swap to lighter rear springs, I'd reccomend a shorter 10" spring, if you were staying at 200's/225's I'd suggest 8" springs. I run 7's and 8's depending on the springrate/season I'm in Makes for easily accessible adjustment's as well (above the tire) with a lighter setup. How do you like your rear struts? Are they adjustable? I'm interested in new adjustable rear options with the rear Illumina's now gone.

I got a minute to stop by a yard with a late 80's Supra late last week and had my camera with me and a tape measure:) So I snapped some quick pics for those interested (already sent to Paul)......no time to upload them to my server to reference on hybridz but feel free if you'd like to. It was nearly dark but they turned out pretty good with dimensions even visible I know the diff's are light/short, no idea on longevity etc.......double A arm setup looked nice and reasonably lightweight. Drop me an email sales@modern-motorsports.com if you'd like the pics sent to you.

LT1 sits nice'n'low with excess hood clearance and fine balance in the Z IMO. Great candidate for install.....their is some issuse on AC or PS pulley to be navigated so it clears your pass. inner fender but it's been done by a few now so new rocket science required. I know it's a VERY common discussion but it's no longer even a thought for myself (weight of L6 vs. ___) as my 280ZX came out with a slight rear weight bias/my dad's 240Z is likely the same/both handle great with neutral characteristics. L6's are so far fwd in balance a nicely placed V8 swap with reasonably light components go a long ways to having a great setup, 100-150 lbs (even if it was that much, mines lighter than OEM with nothing else stripped) is very minor given the power/tq gains! We've both got upgraded suspension/brakes/powertrain/R200LSD etc and can't cite any notable hybrid flaws. Here's my dad's Lt1T56 240 (Ron Tylers 'old' powertrain) with a few pics to help you see fitment. At some point he'll do a cold air mod. FWIW, the louvred hood vents made a HUGE difference in engine bay temps and allows hot air a much easier exit (he has un unvented OEM style hood).

Yup, universal's can easily give you an unbalanced feeling....I can easily have a set made for you if you'd like.......just send me thickness specs if slipons along with stud size.....if boltons are desired (I can do boltons as thin as 3/4") then send thru hub stud type and that you'd like on the new outer studs...just some options for you.

Just put a prybar on opposite sides of one flange/lever them and 'pop' it out....another way is to leave the halfshaft bolted to them and use the shaft as a mild slide hammer and they pop out as well......just a large Cclip holding them in. If you're putting an LSD in for big power you may want CV's in which case you won't need those small input stubs anyhow.....good luck!

Here ya go, still fresh at 9 days http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=001272 "If I take the 4 bolts off of the flange that connect to the halfshaft" (at the wheel/hub side) there is a big bolt (big nut on the end of the stub axle, stub axle is the actual flange your wheel is bolted to...it has a splined axle that passes thru the rear hub, thru the companion flange and is then nutted down by the big nut) behind that. After the big bolt (nut) comes off the (companion) flange will come out, but I will need to remove the stub axle (25 spline) and replace it with a 280 stub axle (27 spline)? You have to replace stub axles and companion flanges as pairs as they share the splines. So if you have 240Z stubs/companion flanges and want 280Z units.....find a set of 280Z units, send me the companion flanges to mate with CV adaptors, I'll send you CV adaptors back....then remove your rear 240Z stubs/comp. flanges and reinstall your new 280Z stubs/comp.flanges mated with CV's as a new unit. If you do go the route of removing your rear stubs, it's a good time to do any other planned rear brake work as you have to remove some parts in common anyhow, just an option. "Next question, It looks like a PITA to remove the stub axles? Whats the best way?" First remove the halfshaft, then with a diegrinder or similar, 'unstake' the peened portion on that 'big nut', their's a flat portion under it into which the nut has been 'pinched' in and if you grind out the pinched portion then the nut will come off (still takes lots of force but at least it will come off). I use a 400 ft-lb impact with a large breaker bar tiewired to my wheel studs so the axle can't turn.....be very careful if you do this that your breaker bar is secured in the correct orientation and safely! Once that big nut is off the ideal way IMO to remove the stub axle is to beg/borrow a slide hammer, it bolts onto the wheel studs and you give it 2-4 BIG tugs and your stub axle just jumps out. (set your car up in your garage such that you have enough stroke on either side to use the slide hammer ).

Neat thought, my initial reaction is what is a highly rear weight biased car like to drive? Mine's 50/50 f/r and better rear weight bias with full gas tank, and I really like how neutral it is and it's handling, far more so than stockish front weight bias......I'm not clear what it would be like with a significantly greater rear weight bias??

Do you want an adjustable unit or a preset unit? I like an adjustable unit, I'll set the switch to 185-190 for cooler/street casual use so the ee fan doesn't run except when the radiator itself can't keep up (I run a robert shaw hiflo 180 Tstat with a Stewart Warner stage II wp). For track days of some odd scenario when radiator alone could use some help I'll tweak it down so it comes on 170 or so to help give the system a headstart.......I've found if the fan is kicked in earlier during more suspect conditions the entire system can control the temp easily.....if fan comes in too late and is really required the higher temps seem a lot harder to overcome. 99.9% I just leave it at 185-190. When it's an adjustable unit it doesn't matter where you put it as you're setting it relative to what your dash (or other sensors you may have, I have OEM and my proflo sensors) or other sensors tell you.....ie. I'm not setting the adjustable unit to '185', I'm just putting it in a position that it then kicks in when my proflo reads 185 degrees..... anyone seen a nice external sensor/adjustalbe unit lately? I'm still running a flex-a-lite unit with a large thermocouple (like an older gas furnace) that I tuck into my upper rad hose and seal with some silicone/tape where the capillary tube exits the hose.

That might explain how I now have 3 or 4 long ones with no shorts to pair up with! Your longer one I'm curious on as the 300ZX CV units I've seen have a larger 4 bolt pattern on the outboard flange instead of the 6 bolt (3 pairs) bolt pattern on a smaller bolt circle that the 280ZXT CV's have. Your passenger side that's already in 'fine', are your sure it's fully seated into the diff? AIR (their's been 2 or 3 threads on this in recent weeks) the long shaft (and the stub insert portion is longer as well, not just external shaft portion) goes on passenger side with shorter unit on drivers side. Some have tried to reverse this as the short one fits easily on passenger side (as Terry's suggested you may have done) but no way will the long one fit on the drivers side........even when done correctly it is a snug fit so don't be surprised when it takes some patience and maneuvering to get the drivers side (shorter unit) in their. I'm not sure if I've yet seen OEM 280ZXT shaft measurements posted on this site for reference for users? I should see if I can dig those out of my paper tunnel if not. quoting the other thread for reference: start of JT's CV q's "Or you've got the left axle in the right side. There is just enough "float" on these axles to allow the short axle to fit into the long side, but not the other way." "There is a difference on my shafts in two places between the left and right halfshafts on the CV jointed ZX shafts. The axle itself is 1/2" longer (boot to boot measurement on mine for example) and 5/16" longer on the stub that inserts into the differential. Here is another posting of the photo of both sides. The drivers side is on top (short one). I noticed on mine the boots are different between the two on one side. This may or may not account for the axle length difference"

Refresh all your bushings..and ensure you can get true high quality treads to wrap on those wheels, for true stickum top notch narrow treads will outhandle fat meathooks in cheap treads any day...and top notch meathooks can really stickem I frequently see this mistake, thankfully more commonly on some domestic leadsleds trying to sneak my old Datsun The classic fat Cragars with hard/greasy comp TA's, makes me smile every time.....especially if theirs a drop of rain on the road ...and make sure your brakes can meet your needs when it's not just lateral G's you need.

a quick search will find you many hits.....in summary the bolt on calipers work with your solid rotors and don't resolve any fade issues.....common opion is that the solid caliper upgrade is not so much of an upgrade and if you go to the effort the vented rotor upgrade is well worth the time and effort, providing greatly improved fade resistance. I've had the vented spacers for some time and customers have been using them for street and race use with great review. I just haven't put them up on my web yet, but they're fully available and in stock. For street they prefer the KVR pads and for short track use (ie. not full race/longer track) the porterfield R4S pads......higher heat/more intense use the R4's and R4E's have been the favourite. The occasional customer has even received his anodized at no extra cost as a bonus Custom anodizing can easily be done to suit your colour choices as well.

Done correctly summarized as in your wheel studs have a known history (ie. never overtorqued), your chosen adaptors are made to fit your hubs and studs properly, all resultant fasteners are proper spec/quality and properly torqued and checked with reasonably frequency (same as running ordinary wheels without spacers). For proper thickness, if you want to go wider than 7" width or move away from the OEM wheel centreline, then you'll want to measure up your ride and then pick a likely new rim candidate to compare specs/expected clearances to arrive at a thickness. If you want typical 7" width at OEM centreline then my stocking units are fine. Custom units are only a couple weeks time till they ship typically if you want a specific non-typical wheel or location. My website has a useful link under the product description for checking clearances as well.

Here's some prior threads, lots more thru the search function....been used on 400hp and above for years now when done correctly. http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001732#000012 http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001590 http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=10;t=001085#000000 http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=10;t=001363#000000 One of the above posts is by a big block hybridZ owner running 'em. Many members have weighed in on the above noted threads already.

Dan, I've got tons I'd enjoy posting but it all has to go webwise (ie. uploaded) and be formatted so it's clear to all and not misinformation to some in order to be referenced .....customer orders underway and R&D projects have priority over even more paper/keyboard work...if you need any info let me know via email/my usual communication means.

Here you go Britt, from a racing bud: "Randy's Ring & Pinion... http://www.diferentials.com/home.shtml Also around Seattle I've also had good results with my sponsor's shop, Bellevue Automotive Repair at 425-455-0060. Drop Chuck Jessup's name if you pop by."

Randy at NW Differential or similar name is very good and does lots of race cars.......he's in WA and I put a request into some buds to get his direct contact info, I'll post it once it comes back in. He's done work on many friends cars doing steady racing.

Dead centre? So how far would you have to rotate them to clear...preferable to rotate out or in....if you really like the headers you could step to a wedge type setup at the header/head interface as I'm about to. Just an option.

Were your tires full engaged (ie. not slipping) and was it on smooth pavement? If so what treads were you running? Or was it hopping at all?