Modern Motorsports Ltd

No worries Flash:) Package you received shipped day after your order placement and pads/lines went out a few days later. They shipped out separate and from what I see they're out for delivery today:) Shouldn't delay your install:) The lines are all DOT and include new banjo bolts and washers NOONE has value like that and with DOT certification Please email me directly with q's as I can easily sort them out. I'm not in here regularly the last few months with my committments to customers etc. It was a customer/friend that notified me of your post. I know some use the forums as their mailbox, mines sales@modern-motorsports.com. Enjoy your install and any more q's just drop me an email

Wigen, have you done any machining? I'm quite proud of how cheap those brackets are considering the extensive machining required! Perhaps more impressive once you have them in hand. My website lists the rotors required under the webshop/rear package, then 'additional info' link within package info.......and I can provide any install info you require at the time. Take care and good luck with your 4x4 vented install.

John, I understand and can completely associate with you! I did nearly very similar things 3 or more times:) Aftermarket semi metallic pads (2 or 3 sets), and I swapped in used parts yard springs from lower miles (percieved anyhow) 2+2 cars a couple times....student budget and I even used a set of TRW's that I really liked that were OEM 'cargo' springs that fit and worked great at the time in my 280ZX rear. It is truly great how much we can benefit from even such slight 'mods' as brake pads alone! I'll always recall the effect of the 3.36 to 3.9 diff swap and improved exhaust......was a whole different car for about $200US total or less years back! " I'm not much of a race driver, so many of these refinements might not be able to be appreciated." I'm not a natural when it comes to driving skills at all........quite green at it/most every time as I usually only get out 1 to 3 times per year and last year missed all events with other committments/some motorsports related. I fully agree it can be harder for non-natural's to understand/notice the dynamics as easily as the more gifted natural drivers.....but a neutral car sure feels sweet and when someone else pointed it out then I understood what that 'quick/smooth' rotation on corners was I was enjoying:) (drastically altered springrates/struts led to quite a different experience). And the braking effort I could modulate was only greater under skilled feet, just glad us less natural drivers can still enjoy it all, whether on a basic maintenance budget, simple pad upgrade or mods more involved to most any level, that's a huge beauty of automobiles IMO! At Shasta in particular I truly enjoy how one car can literally be a $500 car still being very actively enjoyed and another could have a custom-owner derived intake/custom turbo/custom firewall.......you get the idea......we all share common passions and I'm still far from having some of the setups on my car that even my customers have on their cars.....maybe some day but even if I don't I'm still having fun as are many others! Life's a highway.....maximize the straights and enjoy the pitstops! Ross (feeling reflective today.....it was a volunteering wknd spent mostly in sunny nature without serious engineering brain cramps!)

Please thoroughly check the caliper's condition.....I've rebuilt my own OEM on my 280zx and then once had to actually replace it as the ebrake cam function broke in an odd way.....it's well worth your time to carefully pop out the piston and install new seals on calipers like the 280ZX that are now 20+ yrs old. Verify ebrake mechanism is functioning well as my own just snapped once without any direct reason known.

240Z Turbo, what power level's have been put thru those 240Z stub axles? Of all the CV setups I've put out only two were with 240Z stubs, all others went with the beefier 280Z units. I just measured them the other day for comparision and it is a notable difference. I'm actually trying to see what a stronger alternative is to the 280ZX stubs as they're similar to the 240Z units (a step smaller than 280Z pieces). Good info on the aspects of your adaptation method.

Mike, above I did say larger bolt pattern and larger bolts on the 4 bolt Z31 CV outer flange which was correct and what I meant. In a separate statement I pointed out that my 280ZXT CV adaptors eliminate the smaller 4bolt pattern that the companion flanges utilize, this is what the picture/280ZXT reference was for. The Z31 adaptors use the same design principles as the 280ZXT for companion flange shear key/pocket location with hubcentric tig mating. The Z31 adaptors are NOT yet on the site but have been used successfully to date. clear as mud , any more q's feel free

They are 4 bolt as noted in prior post above "At least one Z owner on this board has already installed them with Z31 CV's (4 bolt outer flange......not 6 bolt style). " I"ve seen the 6 bolt Z31 CV's as well, actually have a bunch on hand but haven't yet had time to see of what use they may be. The 4 bolt CV's with larger bolts and notably greater bolt pattern diameter really impressed me.

Why is that an issue? Just use the appropriate matching OEM CV's with the appropriate z31 differential and centre pumpkin/arrangment is fine........from all info customers have sent in to date the outboard end is the same as are lengths (Z31 viscous CV vs. teh other Z31 CV's with 4bolt outboard flange as you describe), my adaptors only adapt the outboard flange to your companion flange. If I missed your point let me know.....

Me neither, no tread choices for that size in the shoes I like to wear.

Just FWIW, I have a CV adaptor for this install (well quite likely) as well Allows you to keep your CV shafts intact as OEM units should you ever have to replace them and simplifies extra work required IMHO. If your shafts measured: Right and then Left, Extended, 17-5/8, 17-1/8, compressed, 16-3/4, 16-1/2, stubs are 3-7/8's and 3-1/2" long, all measurements right then left side.... then my adaptors will work fine for this install, they are tig welded to your companion flanges/recessed into the CNC pockets and thus also eliminate that small 4 bolt pattern the UJ shafts bolt to the companion flanges with. At least one Z owner on this board has already installed them with Z31 CV's (4 bolt outer flange......not 6 bolt style). Just an option. The new 4bolt flange is a much stronger bolt pattern.

Miles, thanks, I figured it out just the other night. So you have adequate length I'm assuming with your method. My main concern with your method is the total shear strength still comes down to those 4 smallish companion flange bolts as that flange is left OEM bolt together style. All my CV adaptors use a machined shear key to do away with that small diameter bolt and bolt circle setup. Although I haven't yet heard of anyone snapping those bolts?? anyone......bueller? I'm considering dual adaptors on each flange (machined R230 axle end) and companion flange.....although I'd prefer to just find a cheaper CV joint supplier....... PS, I've sent 2 replies now and they just don't seem to get thru to your email.......1st was Mar. 9th with estimate attached and resent last night as well, any alternate email address? Drop me a note personally if you have an alternate.

Looking wicked Arif! I can't wait to see your final rolling pics:)!

It wouldn't be a big deal to make a simple spacer to use at the top of your strut like a bolt on adaptor to increase the top mount thickness....take a bit of work but if you truly like your springs it would suit your needs.

"i know that there are big advantages with going with vented rotors but i think this setup will do me just fine. the car is just being used as a weekend warrior basically, no racing really... what do you think?" Big step backward with those swiss cheese solid rotors.....less mass to prevent fade and reduced friction surface for braking. I ONLY support vented/slotted setups when it's OEM designed (ie. Porsche with cast 'holy' rotors) or pure race and still properly designed.......I've seen so many cracked up drilled setups it makes me shiver. Long story short, good rotors (NOT drilled) and good pads if dollars or clearance is not their....and if you have clearance then look at vented 4x4, and for more my Xtreme's or similar. One pair of good/new rotors with KVR pads and rebuilt calipers would outdo that drilled cheesehead rotor with 4pot IMO.

"So I would do the 5 lug if there were some reason to do so, if it allows me brake flexibilty (vented rotors etc) then I may do it anyway, and just find a 5 lugger wheel that is light" Both RX7TT and Z32 wheels are nice large ID and lightweight strong 16" wheels available quite cheaply IMO for those with some patience. Z32 come in 7.5-8.5" widths and Rx7TT are 16x8's and forged alloy's to boot. I'm sure their are other OEM wheels of desirably specs but that's just two I came across. Their are others, later model supra wheels (not my favourite) are 17's and might not be too heavy). A local customer I just made some custom hubcentric and wheel centric slipon 5lug spacers for (email me if you'd like pics) brought by his FRONT 17" OZ 8.5" wheels with tires (Ecsta 712's) and they weighed in at mid 50 lb range! We were sure to include a leading edge chamfer on his slipons to aid wheel mounting! His rear 11's would exceed that notably. With more power the weight won't be as noticeable but it can certainly be equated with free or lost hp/tq, yet to see a fine analysis defining that but I would enjoy it:) I would have stayed with 4lug's but just didn't see the easily available wheels in same lug pattern to use slipon's at the time I did my swap a few years back. I'm actually using bolt on's out back (1.5") and 1.25" thick slipon's up front at present. I'll likely step to some thicker (2.25" or 2.5") bolt ons out back at some point to widen my stance and use up that vacant wheel well space I have.....(Rx7TT's are +50mm.......so at 1.5" rear I'm still inside OEM centreline).

Well I've always liked panasports but that was mostly when they were the only decent looking option, they are a rather common bolt on and I prefer being a bit different.....the revolutions I've never been a fan of but perhaps they have new styles I'm not familiar with. Bolt on setups are so rare I flipped my two fine sets of 16x7 zero offset a few years back, they paid for my 5lug conversion, 2 new (used) wheel sets and I had change left over. Haven't looked back since:) (Both Riken sets were heavy! one set was 25 lbs or so each at 16x7, my present 16x8's are 16lbs).

Have you taken an air chisel to it yet? Or considered removing your companion flange and then using a slide hammer to yank out the entire stub axle/drum? You noted the drum would rotate correct? ie. so shoes aren't frozen to your drum correct? I'd hit it with an air chisel from various angles to disturb that flat mated drum to stub axle mating surface till the drum blows apart if required.

big blue flame

"Anyone else dealt with this? How bad was the mis-match." Yup, I've noticed that very few headers match aftermarket heads in my limited matching experience. On my setup, I have my match ported aluminum wedges for one side (oval on hedman shorty side, square on rpm head side) and may even make thin match ported 'washers' for the other side as well or may just leave it as is as long as it will seal, my primary concern (as I've had enough power with even horrible mismatches so I'm not concerned with perfect match etc). I ran the 1404's for a long time/matched my heads but not my headers...