Modern Motorsports Ltd

I assume you're at the bottom of your adjustment? Seems odd with 10" springs and typical sleeves, must be high on your strut? You didn't state why you want to change.....25 lbs here/there won't make the change you want. I'm not familiar with your resources but how much work for you to drop your threaded sleeves/re and re the lower perch? My custom lower pieces make for an easy install, I could flash 4 out to you for less than a single spring. What top hats do you have on your coilovers? Thin ones (ie. 1/4") or 1"...if thin then go with 8's or section, 8's cheaper and far easier IMO. If you have thick tops, my custom 1/4" thick tops would drop your car the difference in thickness of your tops and mine (ie. some are in excess of 1" thick). I'm not sure which ones Ground Control set you up with. Some options for you.

Approach looks familiar I'm quite certain Dave did his prior to me doing mine' date=' quite similar. We're both missing the key lateral one but the ones shown do help as well. [img']http://www.modern-motorsports.com/miscpics/mycar/P8190002.jpg[/img]

Just throw a few ounces in their, lower your strut in.......raise it back out and read it like a dipstick and repeat till within a couple inches of the top (no need to have it sweat out later....yes this can happen!), now tighten up the gland nut and keep it upright.

I updated the pics I first posted as a friend pointed out my original quick uploads were too grainy for someone outside our local circle to recognize the car. Thanks for the kind words, no news yet.

Our setup is standalone and not considered to be compatible with other variations. Axle spec's are different as our the R230 CV adaptors we offer (more axle info in above noted link, as well as more comments on our R230 CV design).

Those 280ZX TRW rear's are a great compromise budget setup. I greatly enjoyed those for a few years on my 280ZX before I leaped to coilovers. I never found a rear spring comparable to them. The TRW progressive rears were a great street combo with some BOGE shocks at the time. Much tighter than OEM without approaching Illumina/more track like setups. Satisfied me until I started doing more track-lapping days and then I had to get tighter to push it harder and enjoy it more. HTH,

Search online, they (240SX owners) very commonly upgrade their fronts to Z32 front brakes (that I'm no fan of, engineering-learning excercise that was for Nissan). I'm sure they'd be an upgrade over 280Z stuff but no idea how worthwhile. 240SX rear suspensions are great setups, but too wide to suit a Z as I understand. I've got CV shafts from one or two cars you could have free. I had been thinking of doing one in a 280ZX but that's on hold now with the unrecovered stolen car at present.

Not unmodified. For stout modified units go to: http://www.darkhorseperformance.com/acatalog/darkhorseperformance_Transmission___Clutch_13.html http://www.fortesparts.com/tremec/index.html They have a reputation for being 'notchy' to shift but most users follow up later saying they're fine once an initial proper fluid change is completed etc. I may have one customers full/new darkhorse unit available in one month's time if he doesn't sell his complete V8 Z setup / package during a present private discussion underway.

Now up and in our webshop with a quick picture, http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32&products_id=57 Cheers,

Yes I do, packages in stock, some shipping out this week and stock remaining for new orders. More info here including axle comments to your q: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=30475 They're not in my webshop yet, hopefully by tomorrow along with pictures. Packaging orders is today's priority.

Thanks all, no update on it yet. One favour I'd like to ask of you if I could.......if you're aware of any nicely done 280ZX's (Z's OK but 280ZX's preferred) posted for sale, or that have sold etc, I'd love to know some details. If I get into a discussion with our provincial insurance agency (ie. if it's not recovered. or severely damaged) I want to be well prepared on what would be optimum value for my car and this comes somewhat from values of other somewhat similar cars. Please reply by private email on this issue. All inputs welcome, thanks!

Thanks for the feedback guys. Package will be $215 US, similar service/hardware included as our 280ZXT package. I'm not aware of any major cons of the 280ZXT axles, they're notably harder to source now, and they are slightly smaller in axle diameter than the Z31 pieces. Z31's are easier to source now. Overall I'd use either axle and choose the one easiest and most very serious rear power, ie. 400+ rwtq etc I'd go to the Z31 CV's (or R230). For the majority either axle will suit them fine. PS, they're not in the webshop yet but will be added shortly (my hybridz buds come first!).

Here's a quick update to respond to the requests we've had lately on our rear adjustable control arm progress: Fully oncar adjustable rear control arms, fully engineered and very effective design allows full use of OEM bushings, spindle pin, mounting bolts etc. This was one of the design teams primary goals and was achieved. Designed with each piece accomplishing it's full function with no duplication and easy adjustment. They weigh in same as stock arms, are adjustable for camber and toe. Prototype's were made and are being tested at present with production plans underway. Price not yet finalized at this stage, but not expected to exceed $500US. PS, new announcements on our Z31 CV and R230 CV adaptors posted here: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=30473 and http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=30475 Cheers,

MML CV adaptors to help those adapting R230 differentials to their 70-78 Z's are now available! They include are CV to companion flange adaptor (gets precision mated to your supplied companion flangs) designed to eliminate the small OEM 4 bolt companion flange bolt pattern, without eliminating this bolt connection you still have this weak point, we ELIMINATE it! We also include the appropriate positive 'stops' that eliminate excessive axle travel towards the inner CV joint that others that have done their own installs in the past have experienced. $265 US includes the companion flange adaptors, 'stops' and hardware (preferred pinch style stub axle nuts/washers, and other hardware for flange to flange connection). We also offer the custom built axle shafts you'll mate with 4 of the inner flange style 6 bolt CV joints from the Z32TT's and Q45's. Our shafts our premium quality Moser pieces, they've had all other brands of axles in their shop for testing and theirs came out strongest in an apples to apples comparison so I have full faith in their contribution! Our unique design allows for slightly longer axles than any other R230 setups we've seen which will slightly reduce CV joint angularity and CV boot stresses. In summary we already have the CV adaptors and 'stops', some being welded up for customers who've already committed and others availble for future customers. The axle's will be done shortly as well. The axles will install easily much like our other CV adaptors. At present we do not have a front R230 mount but it is something we intend to do within the near future. Anyone interested in helping coordinate completion of this item feel free to inquire. For your R230 install you'd require your own: -R230 differential -4 each of the inner 6 bolt flange style CV joints -your own front R230 mount (until we have on available) -your own R200 mustache bar for your own redrilling -companion flanges for the CV adaptor mating Cheers!

Our production CV adaptors for the use of Z31 (1st gen 300ZX) 4 bolt flanged CV shafts are now available! These remove the weakness of the small 4 bolt flange on the OEM companion flanges, use a keyed shear pocket that's centered by our machinists to mate your companion flanges with a precision tig weld. No more reliance on U joints or the small OEM bolt pattern. May also allow use of viscous Z31 R200's if their shafts match in overall geometry which one customer thought they did. Their is one easy modifiction required to each halfshaft that a shadetree mechanic can do in an easy half hour. The end caps are tapped off the CV shafts, snap ring removed, and the end cage removed and then reversed to shorten each shaft 3/8's of an inch. This is necessary for proper shaft length and Z geometry. We'll have some pictures to easily guide any wanting some extra pointers. Thanks to those MML customers that took prototype sets and proved their function! One was 240hybrid who posted some comments here: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=29521 , I posted 240hybrid's pic to my personal gallery. Those who've already sent in cores for these will see their sets shipped out next week, they're already being mated up! Cheers,

Unreal, my car got stolen from a not so secured parkade early Wednesday morning in South Vancouver at 1:35am (pics on surveillance cam!!, police have the pics). If anyone see's this 1980 Nissan 280ZX, boxter silver, plate JGG 925 please phone the Vancouver Police, reference File # 04-17130!! It's a visually unique easy to spot car, boxter silver with 5 spoke wheels. Focusing on other things (Z31 CV's done, R230 pieces done, control arms installed) but this has me ticked!!! Apparently their's been a real group of Nissan thefts locally in our Vancouver Lowermainland and Vancouver Island (club member's daughter had her silver 280zx stolen last week!).

Both the typical 4x4 upgrade, http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=48 and this spring, or sooner, I'm doing a PBR front setup that'll clear 15's. I'm unaware of other's clearing 15's.

Cuban, those are only Brembo ROTORS pictured in the setup you reference, not calipers. Most anyone can put Brembo manufactured/labelled rotors on their rides, doesn't make them 'brembo' brakes though. Brembo offers OEM replacement rotors for many models. Brembo brakes typically implies brembo calipers are used. I've sent out some drilled/plated/brembo rotors for Z guys, been meaning to add it to my webpage as well. I discuss these in the thread you note above.

JJO, just some factual helping points given, and info on alternates. Discussing them helps others doing their research become aware of the choices to make their own decision. The 'sell' mode of others (not typically list related) is very often not fact based but rather hype based, and I pride in my comments being fact based. Brembo is in no ways a 'rice' name/moniker. Been high quality engineering for years. If full floating rotor/big ass brembo setups were a lot cheaper I'd be on them myself. All manner of rides here, soft/firm/stiff and !#$ stiff. They all see different uses and meet different desires/needs. If you've ridden on 18" rim/tire car combo's, I wouldn't liken it to an 18 wheeler ride. The new cars with 18's don't ride like that nor should they.

Cuban, Those wheels can fit as long as your tires stay within similar size to overall OEM diameter or not much larger. They'll work with our adaptors as long as you buy a Honda type offset (+36 to +40 mm). Or I can do a set to stay with the Nissan 4x114.3 pattern if you like, just options. As for Brembo brakes, noone has put together a Brembo retail kit for the Z cars. R&D on rather elaborate (as a Brembo setup for a Z car would be) is rarely spent by those of us doing performance parts for Z cars. I'd put up my PBR setup against any Alcon/Brembo etc setup for a head to head on a Z car Any difference notable would be very minor I'd expect and not justify the cost difference. Have you checked out my Xtreme PBR setup? It meets all functional needs plus many others of any Z buildup I've dealt with and they've included drag to high speed road racing to fun street/track combo's. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=55&PHPSESSID=2099d5ea2876cd3603681c0f3814a39f I'll have the rear match for this setup available quite shortly as well to go with my new aluminum front hubs. Any questions feel free via direct email ( sales@modern-motorsports.com ), take care.

Sure, you go to all that work to make a bulletproof drivetrain and it comes down to that tiny 4 bolt pattern still OEM on your companion flanges when done that way. ALL the shear is depending on those 4 bolts and the tear out from that hole pattern on the companion flange. My design uses a shear pocket and that inside bolt pattern is ELIMINATED as is the tear out issue as it's made integral with the new adaptor. Companion flange removal is NOT hard, did 10 yesterday, some 5 minutes each typically if even that much. Die grinder first to just remove the hydraulically pinched portion and then a strong impact to suck the nut off. Flange should then come without too great a force, but easy enough to use a gear puller if required. I could easily do those adaptors, but it's not near as desirable IMO from a design standpoint. Shear strength of the connection and minimizing the number of fasteners are the most obvious points IMO. It's not clear with those if you retain stub axle nut access with the adaptor in place? Or is it a two step process to remove the axle and then the adaptor to get at the nut? Mine have full access once installed to the stub nut etc. Lastly, if I was putting that much force thru my rear drivetrain I'd sure pull my stub axles, inspect for wear/corrosion and do the bearings. Something very often ignored in buildups. You're only as strong as the weakest point you've considered or missed. PS that japan photo didn't come up for me, if anyone else can view it and could email it me I'd appreciate it. I'm not clear if the pick posted is same one or not? Stealth Z mentions milling and that shown is a lathe setup and rotary table so I'm curious what's what.....