Dragonfly
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Posts posted by Dragonfly
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The others are pretty entertaining but this
is personal... and pretty funny, since it is you and not me."Hi John..."Dragonfly
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sweet! and miles, i tried calling but to no avail
There was no phone reception at the show, that place is in a black hole for phone service.
Dragonfly
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Hey Luke thanks for the pics.
Dragonfly
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Spring Valley checking in.
Maybe I will have to pull together some kind of Socal BBQ at my house this summer.
Give me a heads up on that and maybe I can help you out with it.
Dragonfly
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haha, Jason King!! long time no see, thnx for referring me to the forums.
Sorry to say that my Z is currently out of commission also, but hopefully ill be seeing u guys at MSA tomorrow. I wish there was something we could do/wear so we can recognize all the other SD guys... hopefully we'll figure it out... anyways, if u guys see a blacked out LS400 its me!!
I will be wearing a black shirt with a large gold colored skull on the front and gold star on the sleeve and black pants with a skull on the back pocket. I should be fairly easy to spot.
John, if you read this before going to the show... the reason I am going so early is because my car is going to be in the show and even though they say it is going to go smooth this year and there won't be any long lines to get in from what I saw at the autox school today they are going to be exactly the same as in previous years.
Dragonfly
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Looks like I'm late to the party.
I've been in SD for about 2 years now, and had my S30 for about 6 months...currently living in Mira Mesa (not for much longer, hopefully), but between work and school, I'm all over SD. My white S30 was recently stolen and recovered...haven't gotten it back yet (still at the shop), but hopefully soon!
I'm also a regular at the SD autocrosses (whether I'm any good is another story...lol)...wasn't able to go to the last 2, but I should be there for most of the rest of the season, barring any mechanical difficulties. I'll probably be up at MSA on Sunday (in my rental altima, not the Z, unfortunately).
Well you have been in SD about as long as my car has been down, so you would not have seen me at any of the local autox events or at racelegal. As for Sunday, just look for the green 240z that says dragonfly on the side.
Dragonfly
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Since this thread is all about the San Diego Z's I decided to post this here.
I have heard the the Z Club of San Diego is going to go to the MSA show as a group on Sunday but after calling several officers and some regular members no one was able to say who or when, so since I personaly like to go to things like this with a few cars I am inviting any of you guys who are going to the MSA show to caravan up with me on Sunday morning. I will be leaving my house (very close to Qualcomm stadium) at about 6:15 am any one who would like to run up as a group with me let me know in this thread. If anyone would like my cel # so they can contact me by phone drop me a PM. I have no problem meeting up with people as I get close to thier neighborhood so just let me know.
I will also be going up on Saturday for the Autox School, if anyone would like to go up as a small caravan for that drive again let me know.
Dragonfly
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That is the exact box that I have in my car and I have an optima battery in it. The battery does not fit will in that box and I would not recomend it. I do drag race at Qualcomm and I autox at Qualcomm and I have never had any issues with the box as far as tech inspections go, but they require a battery cut out switch for any battery that is not in the stock location. Since you are in San Diego we could probably hook up some time in the near future and you can take a look at mine to see what I am talking about before spending any money or time on that one.
Dragonfly
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Awesome, thanks everybody for the help.
I've found several z's in the wrecking yard, all of them had the hardline rusted to the piece that connects it to the flex line, and wound up getting a kink before they would budge.
Thanks for all the detail, I really appreciate the part numbers and links. I'll try the DIY method first and if/when I get frustrated I'll probably call classictube.
Edit: Any reason not to run copper hardlines? I think this would look pretty cool.
There was a debate not to long ago about running copper lines for brakes and the consenses was that copper lines should never be used for brake lines under any circumstances. In my mind that would include clutch lines. The cost for steel or stainles is not that bad and you know that you will never have a problem nor will you ever get berated by any gear heads that get a look under your hood (just my opinion).
Dragonfly
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You should REALLY see this on the big screen to appreciate it..
Greg
I agree, you only see enough in the clips to get you confused. Also these movies were designed to look like 70's era low budget B movies, as long as you understand that they are entertaining.
Dragonfly
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First thing that comes to mind is the wrecking yard. If that is not an option and you can not get what you need by any other means I would recomend that you buy two 10 X 1.0 metric inverted flare to -4 fittings (google these fittings), one -4 male to -4 male fitting (McMaster Carr part #50715k261) and a 6' length of 1/4" OD tubing http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=89895K24 with two each of the nuts and sleeves (McMaster Carr part #50715k324 and #50715k316).
Wherever you find the two 10 X 1.0 metric inverted flare to -4 fittings also purchase a lengh of -4 to -4 braided steel line (measure or get the same length as your stock one) to connect your hardline to your clutch slave. Use one of the metric to -4 fittings in your master cylinder and one in your slave cylinder, using a tubing bender bend the tubing to fit your aplication (then cut the length as needed), put the nut (#50715k324) on one end of the tube then the sleave (#50715k316), using a flaring tool flare the end of the tubing, repeat with the other end of the tubing. Now you can install your new line from the master to the pick up point for the braided steel line, using your male to male -4 fitting connect your lines together then connect to your slave cylinder. Now top up with fluid, bleed and check for leaks (only about 1/4 turn after finger tight on the fittings should insure no leaks). Lastly enjoy the ride.
Dragonfly
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That thing looks tough. I like the way you did the side pipes. Keep the pics coming.
Dragonfly
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so the pics speak for themselves. the yoke thing attached to the diff broke the bushings that hold the u joint. How much of this should I replace (so that it doesn't happen every time I do a burnout)?
You broke the U joint, you should change out both U joints in both half shafts. Before putting new U joints in make sure there is no damage to the half shaft or the yoke that goes into your diff, if you find any damage replace the damaged part then put in the new U joints. Unless you are running some huge power that you forget to mention you should not have breakage problems after replacing damaged parts even when doing burnouts.
Dragonfly
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Sounds like you found the weak link... crawl under it and take a look when you get the chance and let us know what you find. BTW I have destroyed a few diffs and transmissions and I have never had the rear end come up so I am curious about what you find.
Dragonfly
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I've tried to get in touch with the SD Z club via their website, but their forum's been down longer than I've owned my car. Any word on when/if they're ever going to get it fixed?
For as long as I have been involved with the club there have been problems of one sort or another with the website. The latest webmaster is doing quite a bit of work to get the site working properly but it is not an instant thing by any means. There has been an offer of help from a very capable and talented webmaster who may be taken up on his offer in the not to distant future if the site continues to be difficult for mere mortals.
Dragonfly
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I'm in the college area and now that my car is running again I can be found at racelegal and at the autocross events. Just look for this car...
Hey John long time no see. Hopefully I will be seeing you again pretty soon and the rest of you guys as well since I have not met any of you yet.
Dragonfly
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Absolutely surprising isn't it? And they let these people breed.
and drive...
Dragonfly
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That is for your brake light in the dash (idiot light). If I remember correctly (and I may not) the pressure going into that device is the same for both front and rear brakes and if one side or the other loses pressure it will move a piston over and cause the switch to be closed making the light in the dash come on, that is why it is between the MC and the stock proportioning valve.
Dragonfly
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I secind the above comments... you should not have a valve on the fronts only on the rear. The valve by itself reduces the pedal force even when it is fully open. I personaly would leave the valve where it is and run the rear line into it then run the frint line into a 'T' straight off the MC.
I am using a line lock on the front instead of a 'T' but you should be able to see what I am getting at. BTW when I took this picture the rear line was not attached to the valve yet.
Dragonfly
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Not an RB but I will be racing on Saturday and in the show on Sunday. For those who do not know me already the car says Dragonfly on the side and I love to talk so come up and say hi.
Driving up from SD.
Dragonfly
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If I knew, they'd be fixed. It feels like there is air in the front, no matter how much I bleed. We blocked off the master after I replaced it several times, and it's fine - we blocked off the fronts and the rears feel 100% solid as well. Booster and master are brand new, calipers and pads and flexible hoses are brand new - the only thing left is the hard lines and stock porp valve & distribution block. All connections have been checked and tightened and none appear to be leaking. Pressure bleeding = no air, bleeding by hand (mac tilton) = no air, vacuum bleeding, I think I did get a little more air out initially (hard to tell since you have to retape the bleedscrews every 10 minutes) - but I'm not sure, no more came out and the pedal still just as bad. We tried unplugging the calipers and plugging the lines, and bleeding them out, and the pedal still felt just as bad, so I might be able to rule the calipers out if we really had all the air out of the ends after doing that. It's hard to tell without bleed screws.
I'd guess it was a leak but I can't find any fluid anywhere. Stock brakes were working perfectly before I took them off.
Two things come to mind after reading this, the first and most obvious is you said "the only thing left is the hard lines and stock porp valve & distribution block.". That makes me ask do you have an aftermarket proportioning valve and the stock one in place? Do you have only the stock proportioning valve with this new brake system? If the answer is yes to either of those questions get rid of the stock proportioning valve and use the Wilwood valve. Second thing, if you only have an aftermarket valve in the system already then you should take a look at your brake master cylinder, I suspect it is to small for the brake system you now have. Call Wilwood tell them everypart you have in your system from the brake pedal to the bleed screw and that information should include all sizes on everything including brake lines, also you should expect them to ask you what your pedal ratio is. An example of pedal ratio is: From the pivot point of your pedal to the actuator rod for the master cylinder is 2" and the pivot point of the pedal to the center of the foot pad is 12" (assuming that the pivot of the pedal is at the top and the actuator is below it) you devide 12 by 2 and you get a pedal ratio of 6 (which is one of the most common ratio's). When provided with all the information they will be able to tell you exactly where your problem is and what you need to do to correct it.
Dragonfly
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That's funny, because I think this thing, piped and jetted is only making about 105WHP. So my guess is it isn't any faster than the VFR. It's by far the slowest bike I've owned in a number of years, but so much more enjoyable!
Mike
Wow that suprises me, I thought for sure it was going to be in the 140+ whp range. I am not sure at this time what the numbers are for my new bike but my old Suzuki Intruder was way under powered and over weight with 87whp on an almost 600lb bike, so for me the Interceptor is a rocket and is the fastest bike I have ever owned (all previous bikes have been cruisers).
Dragonfly
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That was one of my pics for a newer bike... I ended up with a Kawi ZRX1100, but could easily have bought an intercepter VFR800... Nice ride!
Mike
Mike thanks for the
, I think that you probably made the right choice for you since you are a bit more of a speed demon than I am (but not by much), the Interceptor does not have as much power as your ZRX1100 but I feel it has a much more linear throttle which was the big selling point for me.Dragonfly
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That was definately the OEM ZXR wing, although the action is done with I took a look at it and found it amusing that he claims it is for an S30, one cursory look and you can see that there is no place for the lock push button to fit through the wing. I also noticed that someone has drilled four holes through the wing on the leading edge in order to bolt it to thier car. The wing actualy has a metal plate on the bottom with holes in it already designed for sheet metal screws to be run through the hatch and into the wing.
When I was running that wing (280ZXR) on my S30 I had to make a template from a piece of cardboard in order to correctly transfer the hole locations to my hatch. After drilling the holes I had to use a hole saw to cut 1" holes in the inner frame of the hatch so I could screw in the sheet metal scres to hold the wing on and last but not least being on an S30 since there is no way to leave your hatch release button on the hatch with the wing installed I used a door lock/unlock selinoid hooked to the latch mechanism to open my rear hatch. Just remembered one more thing, the wing adds enough weight to the hatch that your gas tubes will not hold your hatch open, you will need a stick of some sort to keep your hatch from dropping on you when you are digging around in the back.
The above information is for whoever won that auction and anyone else who may be thinking about that wing or type of wing one thier S30.
Dragonfly
Reading plugs...
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
naviathan is this in your 280ZX? The reason I am asking is because my buddies 280ZX is doing exactly what you are describing. Him and I are both gear heads and we can not find any indication of where the coolant is going. There is no white smoke, no sweet smell, no water marks or puddles under the car and he tells me that he did not find any wetness inside the car. I examined the bottom of the radiator and the underside of the coolant hoses, checked the oil and any place on the car I could think of that the coolant may have left a mark. We have found nothing, if you find it on yours let me know and if we find the problem first we will let you know.
Dragonfly