Slow_Old_Car

Streets were too crowded IMO... Not that all of us are saints, myself included, but that woulda been a no-fly zone for me. Future gauge to go by, if you don't have 1/4-1/2 mile to stop free and clear, you don't have enough. Problem is most people don't want to drive out far enough that that kinda space is a reality.

I run a UEGO AEM unit on my car w/ a v2.2 board on 29q2 code. I went to the AEM unit after having a Innovative LM-1. There was nothing wrong w/ the LM-1, i just didn't need it's abilities for a permanent install in my car that interfaced with MSnS since the EMS could do all the logging and then some. I chose the AEM as opposed to switching to an LC-1 because i wanted a display for current AFR read outs that wouldn't require me to drive around w/ my laptop all the time. While the XD-16 upgrade is availble for the LC-1, at the time it was more cost effective to just go to the all in one setup of the AEM UEGO system. My only complaints about the AEM are that it comes in 2 & 1/16th when most Z's run 2 & 5/8ths gauges for the dash, and it seems to read a tenth off vs. the MegaSquirt when all the settings are correct. I've chalked it up to the MSnS software having a faster refresh rate than what the display on the UEGO has. Really it's fairly irrelivant in just glancing since i don't do any adjustments unless i'm going through a tune and datalog in megalog viewer.

How much did that pump run?

No no no, really, i've given it quite alot of thought, it's 42.

external wastegate with a .5 bar spring in it.

I see no flex coupler between the two manifold banks, not worrying about the heat expansion cracking flange welds? Also looks like your belt crosses into the path that will be occupied by your charge piping, unless your going to run a reducer right there to get the room? Other then that, looks beastly.. what trans and EMS are you gonna do this with?

initial tests are inconclusive. started tonight with pulling the thermo housing off, found the underside covered in suit (i keep a fairly clean motor), so part of my "overheating" readings might be exhaust gas passing the gasket and basically hot plating the thermostat housing. however, just to be sure i took both senders out, started off with a water test... with baseline devices being a infrared therometer for checking brake temps, and a digital oral thermometer. testing situation was a glass of water. the oral thermometer wouldn't read above 110, the MSnS sensor was close to that, and it barely registered on the autometer since it's a 100-250 sweep gauge, the infrared kept getting mixed readings since it reads a larger target area and averages. in efforts to establish a higher temperature baseline to see if it got inaccurate the hotter it got, out came a butane torch, again the infrared was worthless since it couldn't finite down enough, but up untill the point we pegged the autometer things seemed to be halfway accurate. i really think the problem is going to be the exhaust gasket as my MSnS sensor is the lower sensor of the two in the housing and would have been the most succeptable to heating of the thermostat housing. in addition to that it appears the alternator is dead, so i've pulled that out to take and have tested, initial results w/ a ampremeter on the outputs of the alternator were not encouraging. i spent some time diggin through the atlantic z car tech tips on wiring a ZXT alternator into a S30 car, my wirings definately not right, but i cannot distinguish my wiring colors after several decades of heat discoloration either. so it will probally come down to trial an error. this "2 hours of downtime" may become a week in very short order...

Both senders are tapped into the thermostat housing, so there source for both is the water just under the theromstat inside the housing. Ones the sender from autometer for the gauge, so it should be pre-calibrated for it's gauge, and the other is the recommended GM CLT sensor that MS is pre-programmed for, so again it should need no adjustment. Right? I've been running the system for a few years, and i want to say it was right on the money back in the day, but who knows... but i figure going down the highway with 10.8 AFR's trying to cool it down on a evening ride and still seeing 200+ on the PC while the autometer reads 160... one of em has to be lieing.

Had a recent development w/ my MSnS system, this is a 029q2 MSnS-E on a v2.2 board w/ map daddy 4 bar, 440cc third gen supra turbo injectors, and GM IAT and CLT sensors. Was driving around last night and kept seeing 200ish degree's on the computers MSnS readout, but the autometer sport-comp gauge was reading 160-170 (with a 160 thermostat). During some engine datalogging i even saw 238 at one point which has me thinking the MSnS sensor readings are on the fritz, but what check or adjustment is there on stock GM sensors... i know easytherm and the likes is around for using stock nissan sensors, but i'm unsure what to make of this issue. Should i reinstall MSnS-E? Reflash the MSnS box? Etc... Since both sensors draw there readings from the tapped and threaded thermostat housing i'm going to begin with pulling them out and doing a bench test with a thermometer to see which sensors closest, but i'm open to ideas... just about had a damn kitten when i saw that 238f in the engine logs.

rb26dett

pm sent

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102244

works for me, i like experimenting w/ the 2.2 stuff anyway. it may not have all the bells and whistles of the newer units, but it's cheaper to do the initial running with and the initial screw ups that always come w/ a new build.

i recall seeing a thread awhile back that went kind of left field, but it had photos of types of n/a and turbo headers. the focus wasn't so much on what each was for or who made it, but the art of engineering behind it. after reading JohnC's thread about racing exhausts, i thought it might be fun if everyone could post up photos of these types of devices that are almost as much art as they are well engineered racing devices.

looks good, when you get bored, to gain some additional clearance for downpipe service, grind down the lower ridge from what i remember them calling a detroit diesel flange. that little 1" diameter gain is alot more useful than you'd think.

I'll be very interested in reading a good write up about this moby, going to be sure to include back links from your own research in other LSx based forums?

sounds fairly similiar to an instance I had after going to the drag strip one time. had been there all evening making passes, went to leave and got all of a mile away, and my processor just died w/ out warning. after the tow home, and going through some voltage tests w/ matt, we figured it to be the processor so i ordered 2 spares, flashed them on arrival w/ my code, and it lit right off. to this day i still have no clue why it failed, and i always carry a spare pre-flashed processor now. this was all on v2.2 stuff though, and last i herd it's substantially more electrically fragile so who knows.

agreed, 3 boost levels on tap, zero problems.

pipes will stay on better if you run some better clamps/connectors. looks like your rubbing rubber connectors w/ worm gear clamps. get some 2-3 ply silicon connectors and t-bolts, you'll never blow a pipe again. as for your nitrous issue, cheap insurance if you have the engine bay space is put a secondary fuel system for the nitrous in there w/ some 105oct, run a 1 gallon cell, fpr, the noid, and a pump... a bit much for a small wet system i realize, but your playing with boost plus a air catalyst. A little octane padding under spray wouldn't hurt.

only 2 turbos there chief, had 4 boost gauges, probally taking readings from each compressor housing, before the intercooler, and at the intake manifold.

pretty sure i saw in a previous post of yours that you have a 83 zxt... thats s130 chassis, not s30.

ktm, you have forgotten about couplers for your intercooler setup, or maybe your calling them hoses, which if you are running 3-4 ply silicon's and t-bolt clamps, it will ad up to a couple hundred bucks fairly quick. additionally, your estimate of $100 for IC plumbing is accurate, but only if you are doing the welding and fab work, otherwise $300-400 seems to be the going rate that i've seen for proper mandrel systems. depending on the type of fuel lines you run, $100 is accurate, or under par by a hundred or two if you are planning on some fancy braided line job with nice fittings. $100 will get you worm gear clamps and some aeroquip twist loc hose. as for the boost gauge, save $100 and run mechanicle. injectors, find some used third gen supras for $100 and call it a day. and what others have said about walboro's or bosch units is right, good cheap pumps for your application. your not going for 1000whp, so you don't need a fuel pump for one.

sounds like you are off a tooth on the dizzy shaft... if your having to clock it one way all the way in order to get near accurate timing. put the car to TDC on cyl 1 and recheck the orientation of your dizzy shaft w/ the dizzy off... be VERY anal that it's exactly as shown in a FSM. i'm guessing you'll find it's 5-15 degrees off the axis shown in FSM, which means as your timing adjusts when your boosting, the car then goes into a improper curve.

so the second z06 slammed reverse somehow when shifting during one of those runs... kinda scarey.

tbi?