Slow_Old_Car

you have a stroker with a head that is reworked, it should move more CFM up untill the manifold choke point. guys on stock displacement are maxing out 440cc supra injectors with not to terribly much boost, so depending on your power goals you will find the ceiling of those injectors fairly quickly.

just makes me realize i need to hurry up and list my 3.36 LSD R200, can't fathom what it would fetch given that auction...

save yourself waisted time, upgrade the injectors now before you start tuning...

I'm trying to trouble shoot a stock 280z that has been off the road for years. I've already discovered a bad fuel pump and flushed the lines with air. I also replaced the injectors with some known good ones, then hooked up a closed loop fuel system running out of a 1 gallon gas jug at the moment with a walboro 255lph pump, adjustable regulator, and JSK rail, so i know everything related to "hard parts" is new or working. i probed the plugs for the injectors after cleaning out the usual oxidization but couldn't get a consitant reading. i'm not terribly familiar w/ the stock EFI, so can someone probe one of there plugs and tell me what voltage they are getting when the car is in the "on" position? if i can't match other peoples voltage i guess i'll have to move down the line of electrical crap. and for further clarification, i can start the car on starter fluid, i know i have good spark, it's purely a fuel related and looking to be electrically fuel related issue... stock 75' 280z

pumps do not like to suck, they like to blow/push/force... by lowering the fuel pump position you will reduce the work load it encounters trying to get fuel through the pump. *edit/addition* just saw your fuel lines and question, i'm not up on the rules for all forms of racing, but i know in drag that you are required to have the fuel tank behind a bulkhead that seperates it from the passenger cabin (i do not know how strict they are about this rule, or if it changes when using a metal tank). i also recall somthing about having any part of the fuel system mounted on the firewall was a giant no-no too, which i'm not exactly sure why unless they mean't the interior firewall, which would then definately make your fuel line placement a no no.

the bolt in roll bars that go to the fender wells arn't really my bag, i'd rather build a nice 4 point that goes to the strut towers and frame rail area, then expand out later. doesn't bother me to fab, i just want to see how good the start of the main hoop is.

got photos of your install? i'd like to check it out...

so do they have the s30 design on file, or would a person need to do the measurement sheet on there website and submit it?

i agree, i'm really hoping these make it to some type of a casting phase cause i'm sure the cost of CNC'ing stuff that complex is astronomical unless you have a hook up. i eagerly am anticipating the results of this.

looks good, but i'll put another vote in for v-banding... not the cheapest option, but i really do feel the days of tri-bolt flat flanges have come and gone with all the better options out there.

I'm not entirely sure yet, but i believe there are differences. I've just not had a chance to compare side by side. Anyone know off hand if the series 1 dashes were unique in any way?

I've been digging through the factory service manual for this 75' 280 i have, but i figured i'd ask here in case there are some tips/tricks that arn't in the book. I got the car not running, threw a new battery in, and turned her over. Verified that i was getting spark, but the car still wouldn't start. Fuel was the problem, started w/ the usual, had voltage at the pump, pump was bad, etc... fast forward to now. Right now there is a walboro 255 sitting on the cowl of the car running in a loop to a gallon container of gas. I got the car to light off on brake cleaner, but the injectors arn't doing there thing i don't think. I pulled apart the injector harness checking for broken wiring in the loom, notta. But i'm not getting 12v (i'm getting like .06 and things like that at some) on the plugs. What i need to know is, with the car in full run position, what SHOULD the injectors be seeing, a full 12v on one pin or the other? Or is there a sensor somewhere in the stock EFI that could be bad which would kill the whole row of injectors?

diff

this is very exciting stuff.

Post a photo

Then my answer to you is a P90/F54, LD crank, 9mm rods, 240sx forged slugs, all ARP hardware, coated bearings, pistons, and combustion chambers. With a reworked head sitting on top obviously, though i think the valves could stay stock, a turbo cam and a beefed up valve train for higher RPM operation. Custom intake/exhaust manifolds, all coated, wrapped, and shielded for duration operation. Your trade off will come in the turbo, as big top end power will hinder your short track abilitys. Meth injection and a little nitrous for boost dependant situations, good radiator, good intercooler, good oil cooler, just lots and lots of cooling support. Your motors work stress will be excessive on tracks and top end racing, so everything you can do to keep it in check, should be done. Trans, if your going to autocross, go top end, etc... i'd say opt for the Z32 trans. If you were strictly drag racing and going between citys i'd say an auto is fine. If your not doing the build yourself, i'd suggest you take it to a shop that knows Z's well, as you will be putting alot of stress on the chassis, and it needs to be done right.

It would depend largely on what you want to do with the car... Are you going to go hunt supras on the freeway? Are you going to go throw pieces of tire at miates on a auto x course? Are you going to go show drifter kids that an old chassis can hang? Are you going to go try to out 60' John Force? Name the cars intended purpose, and the motor/driveline should be built around that.

is that video lag, or are you really turning 14.x:1 AFR's at 7000rpm under boost? cause that would be pretty ballzy, dare i say wreckless.

impressive 60' to say the least. whats the power plant/driveline combo?

That sucks, especially on that what looks to be molded in setup. Worse case scenario, depending how they scripted you, if you can get it driveable and the cars a background car, they'll shoot it from the good side.

Thats amazing to see a vintage part like that do so well under modern testing mediums.

go do another pull on some back road, then pull over and pull your spark plugs right there, just to check your not retardedly lean on one of those injectors.

pallnet spacer and what looks like NGK spark plug wires too. i'd say if the compression is good, and your looking to go turbo (assuming the valve cover is indicating an actual ZXT motor), that $800 is a darn good price for a complete shipped setup w/ all those goodies bolted to it.

Could you by chance post up a couple shots your rear suspension Jerry? i've been interested in seeing your bump stop setup and tire clearance. what tires are you on, 28x9-15 MT ET slicks if i recall right?

to what end was this done? what are you looking to achieve by reducing the diameter of bolt that will fit in the R200 ring gear? i'm sure i missed somthing in some of your older posts, but care to explain?