Slow_Old_Car

North Houston. 290 area (NW houston) is expanding rapidly right now, so is Humble (NE houston). I wouldn't really consider any of the public schools top notch at the moment, would need to look at private schooling in the area. I suppose the Klein district schools are alright, though Klein Forest is a little rough.

I'm sure you could wipe down the blades with a rag sprayed down with brake cleaner. Then again, i'm guessing when you get it, it will need a rebuild anyway, which if you end up sending it out to a rebuilder they will clean it anyway before rebalancing it.

I'd take a very very close look at that unit when it comes in. Looks like it was pretty rigged, and on a motor w/ a hell of alot of PCV blow by.

nvm... just gonna try it and see what happens.

perhaps member zeeboost could be of assistance, he's out that way i believe.

I run 8.8-8.9 in the 1/8th and low 12's in the quarter... without the rest of the time slip break down any calculations of i run this which equates to that is really just best guess. Granted i'm the exception to the otherwise cold hard math 1/8-1/4 formula. But i'm a manual gear box turbo car, thats how it goes.

how about a posting of the time slip so we can break down what happened during the run?

like others have said, depends on if your leg or torso. i'm 6'0"-6'1" and usually have my hair against the headliner, with a helmet on i have to reposition the seat into a wanna be thug position to get down the track. but i'm all torso height.

boy you've got a heck of an attitude.

The amount of porting i have seen done, which took it to the very limits of the puck itself, still produced a turbo which would spike/creep in higher RPM's. Granted i've never used one with a dual reference actuator which might have a greater travel capability than the stock units i've seen fanagled into there uses. The way i've come to look at it is much along the same lines of people who will choose to retap there turbos center sections for standard size threads. You can take a part, and modify and modify and modify till maybe it will work on the intended task. Or you can get the right part for the job the 1st time around and save yourself some busted knuckles, wasted gaskets, and half a bottle of asprin. I've done the holset setup both ways, i even got pretty darn good at modulating the boost with just throttle control, but of all the methods i have tried or seen tried. The simplest, and most effective, was going external. Not to mention, it's a part that will grow with your car, so if you change turbo's down the line your already set. my .02.

save yourself alot of headache, have the internal gate welded shut and convert to external wastegating. MUCH more stable than trying to get a turbo that was designed to operate at 30psi to puts along at 10psi on the stock actuator.

looks like a really cool toy... do cops come out and chase those things down?

i'd say that beats the photo of a tractor pull motor letting go that i saw awhile back... though they did have the moment it let go on film... which was cool.

I win...

i gotta agree, alot more left on the table, i was putting out that power at 10psi, and 330hp/350tq on 15 with a slipping clutch. my motors 7:1 for whatever it matters on 440cc injectors. HY35 and MSnS via a ZXT dizzy. like others have said, can you post your dynocharts with a plotted AF curve and perhaps screens of your timing and fuel maps?

PM sent

Update: Bubbled surface rust on the tailight deck with mixed areas of paint. Wire wheeling could remove it, but the metal is textured and would have to be filled and smoothed with some type of body filler or lead before it could be painted and used. The vanity area below the tail lights is rust free somehow, i don't particularly understand it, but it's a clean sheet from weld seem to weld seam. The front clip had fiberglass fenders, so i couldn't provide fenders since i'm keeping those to make molds of. If you seriously want the front clip though and can figure out a way to get it to florida, i'll sell it. Be warned though the car being an ex race car, it has part of the cage coming through the firewall and affixed to the strut towers. So i'd have to either remove the bars, or ship with them in place rendering your battery tray area unusable? Lemme know, i'm all for helping you out on a clip if we can figure out a way to get it there.

Houston, so a bit of a drive from ya. Let me go bang around that section of metal w/ a body hammer and see what is what down there, i'll let ya know.

gas fill hole is gone, thats right along where the cut line was for the fiberglass fendering to begin, so i only have the upper third of that area basically. and by the rear part where the hatch latches do you mean the tail light deck? or literally just the area around the latch, cause that would entail destroying the tail light deck.

I have a old Z chassis in my garage, ex solo 2 race car, the car had alot of fiberglass fendering which i'm saving, as well as the cage. The car has alot of cancer which is why i'm not bothering to restore it to it's former glory as a racer, but i figured i should at least mention it here in case there are certain really difficult areas of metal that might be clean enough for someone else to use. I've already cut the roof off for a friends car, the tail light deck has alot of surface rust but doesn't seem to go through, the rear fenders had been cut for the fiberglass units, but the curvature section of sheetmetal between the hatch opening and just below the rear fender bulge is still there, edges are rusty from being exposed but overall that metal looks sound. The frame rails looked really nice in the engine bay, but i'm also considering cutting the front of the car off to have a full scale mock up engine bay on casters so i'm not sure if i'd cut those out yet. The floor pans are trashed, but the tunnel itself looked good. The toolbox and associated metal immediately behind it before the spare tire well (which isn't there anymore) also looked decent enough. Rockers and doglegs are swiss cheesed. I'll try to get some photos up, just figured someone might be missing some ultra odd part of sheet metal on a restore of there own to where i could help before it gets sectioned up for the trash can.

Had a fidanza unit on my car, had the holes strip out where the clutch pressure plate mates to the flywheel... Originally i'd ordered and intended on starting with a 13lb billet steel unit from AZ car, but when my 240mm order came, it turned out to be a 225mm unit and he was out of stock of 240's... hence why i ended up w/ the aluminum fidanza. The throttle response was damn impressive while it was in there, though i did have a hard time coming off the line in drag situations since i lost alot of that inertia mass that previously helped with clutch slip. Just took some getting use too. I'm not totally out on the fidanza unit either, one of these days i'll take it down to a machine shop to have the pressure plates bored out and steel thread sleeves installed. Then she'll go back in... For now i'm using a stock 240mm turbo flywheel... big difference in rev up and you can feel the mass of it too.

This is good info to have, i just got some fiberglass parts from a old Solo II Z that i'm dismantling, and while the fiberglass parts are rough from years of racing... i was trying to figure out how i could make mold's of them so that the design isn't lost to time and wear. I'll have to go over those links and see if i think i can do it... always would be nice to crank out vintage race bodywork. Just never have had a clue how it works.

i barely register at idle on a autometer, and have about 25ish psi by 3krpm on a 7:1 turbo motor with a turbo pump. no shims, no springs, no porting. always has bugged me a bit... has me thinking about a oil cooler, though i've seen more noteable members of the forum mention that the range i'm in is fairly common and fine. 30w oil btw.

I agree as well w/ the control freak angle of things... If i'm driving, it's a race, i don't lift unless i absolutely need too, if i'm the passenger... you cannot possibly be braking soon enough for me not to be tightening my fists on the nearest grippable surface.

What PSI was this pass made at?