rayaapp2

Unless you were using a cheapo gauge all those numbers are low. Id guess you have lost the gasket at #1, but the other 5 cylinders are low as well. A leak down test is in order on the remaining 5 if you have a good compression tester to determine where the failures are at with the others. It may be time for more than just a gasket and surface job. You will need to have the cylinder head check and surfaced to make the repair complete, possibly the block decked as well so you have a good surface to work with. No sense in going through all that if you need more work done to the motor as well. food for thought

I use 4wheelparts.com http://www.4wheelparts.com/Bumpers-Tire-Carriers-and-Winch-Mounts/Air-Dam.aspx?t_c=64&t_s=26&t_pt=5015&t_pl=106143&t_pn=XEN3124 They are a direct distributor for xenon. The price in the cart is similar and they should have free shipping with orders over $99. Sometimes they go on sale as well. I have bought 2 and received in 3 days! I think it was like $155 to my door. Just put in the xenon part number and it should pop up on their website.

So here it goes. Im in a conundrum which I feel is solely the result of auto parts suppliers not knowing what the hell fits what on my 'Nissan' 240Z. I do not own a 1972 240Z to compare with or I could have avoided posting... lol So here is the deal. My car is a 1/71 production date. The car is a series one by most peoples definition and all the parts I have replaced this far are definitely 70 parts where applicable. What I do not know is if the wheel cylinders are all the same for these early cars without ordering a set of them and waiting 3 days for them to come in from anywhere. It seems RockAuto, Napa, AutoZone, and Kragen all carry the 1972 wheel cylinders, but they do not carry them for a 1971 or back, slmody like there might have been a parts change between these years. I have a feeling these parts suppliers are just ignorant of what fits what. My stress on the situation is that my current daily driver is wrecked and Im fighting the insurance company, my wife's Daily driver has 2 blown flats and we are waiting on tires to come in(06 330i RFT) which will be here mid next week(so she is driving my 99 F250 4x4 long bed extra cab diesel), and Im driving the 71 240Z that empties the back brake reservoir in a day or so. FML with this bad car joojoo. So what Im asking is that if any of you know for a fact that the 70 wheel cylinder is the same as the 72 please let me know. OR if someone knows for fact that the 72 wheel cylinder can be installed on the 70 backing plate without any major mods please advise me.

Idle the engine. Pull one spark plug wire off at a time until you find one that doesnt drop the rpms as much. The fire ring(part of the head gasket) can blow out the side of the block and sound just like a bad exhaust manifold gasket. This has happened several times on different L series blocks I have run. There was just a post about this as well. If you do not have an obvious partially dead cylinder then go back to looking for an exhaust leak. This is just an easy way to determine if you have lost integrity of a cylinder that should be fast enough to eliminate your question. Ray

Some of them will not work as the shock/strut tower interferes as previously mentioned. The cheapo top mount from CX Racing orientates the turbo at an angle that will not work if you have a stock hood and strut tower. I have one. I ended up cutting the T3 flange off and re-orientating the T3 mounting flange parallel to the valve covers. Most of the cheapo Ebay ones will work if they are parallel and towards the center of the engine. Top mounts near the front are an issue and if you find any near the rear you may also run into issues with exhaust routing or heat issues with a LH brakes/steering column! Almost all that use an external wastegate mount are a pain to route(that is the wastegate and associated piping) in the Z engine bay, though I dont know many cars that are easy. The OBX-R/6SR/6 branch/...fill in the blank china stock manifold replacement header fits nicely. This is the one shown above by 900ss. I have one as well and I know a few others do as well. A few of he sellers have listed this manifold as a RB20det manifold only. I do not know why, but I will say that there are several versions of it. Some are distinct with extra brackets to re-enforce the pipes to the cylinder head flange. All the versions I have seen do not meet my personal standards of quality. I had to surface both the cylinder head flange and T3 flange on my final choice. Also you will note they all have really crappy internal fitment. You will see where they plasma torched through the pipe and then just aligned the other pipes to be welded up by a really nice welder! So you end up with really rough edges and holes that do not line up very well/are not properly sized. At best its a stock replacement if you do not have a fixable stock manifold. Some of the top mounts are made the same way. My 2 cents is that if you are going to buy a non-custom manifold, buy the CHEAPEST and EASIEST one to modify and expect it to be trouble. If you get a good one... your luck may not be that good and it may crack on you out of spite not far down the road. After 3 different installed manifolds Im waiting for insurance to come through so I can buy the really expensive custom one.

Yeah, after seeing a couple pictures of the innovate clamp I figured out how it worked. Surprisingly though Im getting very little dilution with the stockish Z. At least from what I can tell so far. Since my probe is so large I cannot duplicate the innovate clamp in terms of functionality without becoming a restriction to the whole exhaust and therefore altering AFR. If I want to tune closer to idle though I can restrict the flow through the probe to get a more accurate reading. A friend gave me one of those titanium exhaust valves from a Suzuki GSX1000. Im thinking about modifying it with a set screw to tune my restriction through the probe. For now the rubber coolant hose provides enough restriction with its bend to prevent to much dilution. Problem is loaded tuning has to be open. So it has its limitations, but I can work with it. I get what you mean by swing now. Thats actually a term in the industry for something else that I was describing for future reference, if you care. Hence the confusion.

With the exception of a human installation error(miss-connected the gauge and had to re-solder a few wires, but nothing serious that could have caused damage), this thing works like a champ. With the stock length wires it fits in the center console of the Z and the probe I made clamps to the exhaust. I did get small amounts of swing in the mixture. My guess is that it is a cam dynamic as I stated above. Very interesting. It settles out though in a about a minute. And really its only swinging at idle as it the engine settles to idle. I tossed it on my 240Z with SU carbs. Im sitting at 14.1-14.5 at idle which I interpret to be a little to lean for this car(I have aux metered air port for idle mixture control though). Im seeing 13.1-13.4 at 2500 rpms no load so Im guessing I have fuel drop out under load which I would expect to see with this setup as well. The last Dyno run revealed 16-17:1 AFR's under load which is why I installed the metered air at idle so I could fatten up the mixture. Yes Im excited. I came up with a piece of stainless from a Toyota 3.0 V6 coolant pipe I had from an engine R&R at work. One spare tire hold down bolt and some bits of other scrap and I have a probe. I had concern that Id get dilution at idle or low speeds so I decided it would be best to have a slight restriction at the tip of the probe. Its approx a 1" ID probe so its fairly large and only about 10" long. I grabbed a bit of 90* rubber coolant hose and shoved it over the end of the pipe 'for now'. Readings before and after revealed it only really helped with deceleration readings. Im still playing with it. I will fine tune my probe a bit more before I call it good. Over all Im happy with it for a portable universal wideband for less than $200.

I stand corrected: "4.3 Calibration Schedule Normally aspirated daily driver: - Calibrate before installation of new sensor - Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use - Thereafter calibrate once a year or every 20,000 miles, whichever comes first Turbo car, daily driver (tuned rich): - Calibrate before installation of new sensor - Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use - Thereafter calibrate twice a year or every 10,000 miles, whichever comes first Race car - Calibrate before first installation of new sensor - Calibrate once per race weekend Dyno use - Calibrate a new sensor - Calibrate every 2-3 days, depending on usage" From Innovates 'complete' LC-1 Manual that is NOT included with any LC-1 kit I have every purchased(total of 4 so far).

Oh no, I was being sarcastic. ALDL? Old school chevy stuff eh? Ive played around with a tech 1 and tech 2. I will be doing some GM modifications to a Datsun in the near future. I always get thrown for a loop going from STFT/LTFT to block learn modifiers. What kind of program are you using to communicate with a ALDL system on a laptop. Im not really gonna jump in on that stuff, but its cool to see whats out there and see if there is a practical usage for my job.

It was $170 with the gauge to my door. I think I can use one of the innovate programs to capture the AFR and log it in a round about way. Ill keep working on it. Really you have swing on your DCOE's? That shouldnt happen as swing is created by an ECU that modulates the fuel trim of the fuel injector duty cycle. I cant imagine what that means for your carbs. I would be curious as to the the dynamic that would cause that. On dyno runs I dont remember ever seeing anything like that occur with carbs that were not electronically controlled. Maybe a cam phenomenon? Well, admitting your sick is the first step. Step to what I do not know... definitely not a cure and that's for sure. Oh, your super sick! And here I was thinking I was a little twisted for even thinking about the idea and others have already laid the path. I know Ive heard of 14point7 before. I forgot about them. Ill have to look back into them, I think they were the one that didn't require calibration, but Ill find out soon enough. Calibration is a pain, but it makes sense to me as to why it should be done and on a regular basis(which no instruction sheet or place Ive seen on the internet will tell you). Thanks for the input! And nice setup, it sure puts my aluminum box to shame. Oh well mine has 'character'.

Its a portable Innovate LC-1. The AFR sensor and probe are missing from the picture. Im going to build my own probe from the scrape steel pile I have rather than spend $75 + shipping on the innovate probe. I have not seen a cheap LM1 or LM2 unit. Ive got the support system for this as I run an innovate LC1 in my 260Z. Mini HP Net book and USB to com cables. The 3.5mm jacks are going to be on the side of the box as well when its finished. I litterally got the LC1 in the mail yesterday and spent 2 hours throwing that together including cutting, riveting, soldering and such. Now that you mention it I do not remember if the LC1 records... I know my car does but I have a datalogger tied into it. Hmmm EDIT: Actually I intend to use this on carburated vehicles so there will be no swing in AFR to watch out for. Thinking crude but effective here. If I want to use it on a FI vehicle I may have some issues.

Back in the day, long ago, probably before I was born there was this really cool tool. I know its pretty old because it was designed to universally latch onto a big chrome bumper like the ones found on old muscle cars and muscle was dead almost a decade in my opinion before I was born... It was a large box that strapped to the bumper with a rubber hose probe and an analog AFR gauge. This gave me an idea for a crude tool that would probably not be the most accurate but would get the job done close enough. Yes, yes I did, and because I might be slightly autistic or whatever. Im thinking about extending my lead about 10 more feet though. I will have to source some premo wiring for that. Im still working on the probe. Im thinking about a small 1" piece of stainless with a flex pipe on the front. Ill use a wing nut on a bracket to secure it to the exhaust. The only reason it will not be accurate is that it will be grounded through the cigarette lighter which is not optimal. Depending on how my test runs go against a calibrated machine I may add a second ground that secures to a more appropriate spot. Now I can use this on any of my vehicles so long as I do not run leaded fuel in any of them. Flame away, but secretly I know your jealous or have to much money. EDIT: I am Not a Tweeker...

working with a lawyer. Insurance is finally listening to me. My previous insurance rep agent is no longer with their company They received my 150pgs of copied receipts and 3pg letter detailing the inaccuracies of their previous re-inspection report and valuescope value assessment. Did anyone know that the S30 chassis had an over head console or tilt steering wheel? They are now calling me with weekly updates even if no progress is made or they are waiting on me to do something. Since they are working with me the lawyer is on standby until he is needed seeing as he is pro-bono. I think they realized they were handing me a case for court real fast that would cost them oodles of cash. I hope things continue to move smoothly forward as they have been for the past few weeks. Im not getting my hopes up and Im prepared for the worse case scenario.

Damn Tony, Well at least your not exibiting problems like mine. My biggest issue was probably poor fuel and many years of sitting. All my fuel lines and the fuel tank have rust. Some day Im going to find a 25' bristle snake that I can fit to my drill that I can run through fuel lines on these cars when I get them. I had a filter at the tank side before the lift pump(and the filter in the hitachi lift pump) and a filter at the fuel pump in the engine bay. Im going to run 2 more at the fuel rail going into the float bowls now. I need to get some miles on this car to flush the system out though. Rust and water in fuel sucks!

Wrenching on 3 Z's in my driveway. 71, 73, and 74. All three are carb issues at this point. I made progress on the 71 as per my post in the L series section. The 73 was a customers and the front slide was sticking randomly probably due to the locator dowls being missing, wear, and under hood temps. I replaced both of his carbs with a fresh set of rebuilt SU's. He has a lot of other small issues as he converted back to SU's from weber DGV's and was missing a lot of the linkages and such that I now need to source. The 74 I mentioned in my post about the 71. I replaced the head gasket, rebuilding the flat top carbs, pulled apart the rear brakes, and welding up the new exhaust system for it. The previous exhaust FELL off coming up my driveway. I about died with laughter as I realized the car became very load and the muffler was sitting in my driveway half way up the hill and had just fallen off. Thats probably not as funny for anyone here, because no one knows the story behind the car. Lets just say that the car was driven 150 miles with an 'exhaust leak' diagnosed by me only to find that the exhaust leak was not the source of the noise. The head gasket was blown through the fire-ring right under the exhaust on #4. The fact that the car had not run in 4 years, much less 150 mile trip also made this that much more entertaining. So when the car makes it to your house fine and then proceeds to just start dropping parts in your driveway and just completely starts to come apart its hilarious! Pictures also help, Later today Im going to retreat into my hole from my driveway and proceed to drink lots of beer and play a bunch of COD Modern Warfare 3 with my buddies until the wee morning light. Oh yeah, the wife and kids are gone for the weekend! Catch up and relax

I knew it would be something stupid simple I was overlooking. I think its time to put a few extra filters on the car. 1 is not enough! I picked up some power in the flat spot yesterday. Or so says my butt. Time to take exhaust readings and re-tune these carbs now that Ive messed with them and tweeking them is obviously giving me improvements. Thanks all for putting up with me and being there when I had no place else to bang my head.

Turns out.... The float bowl filters were plugged with rust. Bowls were staying full for the most part, but they would not support the volume needed above 2500 rpms. I had shut it off multiple times while it acted up and checked out the fuel level and it was good. I moved the mallory 110 pump to the back and deleted the hitachi lift pump and that also helped a little. But the main culprit was those inline banjo filters. Arg! Now the car has a dead spot between 2500 and 4500 where the power is flat, but at 4500rpms or so it picks up and starts pulling the way an L24 should. Im probably making 80hp now! I think I can pull 20hp in tweeking the fuel system some more and mellow out that flat spot. Indeed the fuel system was an issue I just missed that spot that was being a pain. Thanks folks! Ray

Rear transmission front engine car correct? That may be a difficult swap depending on the rear end. If he is thinking about it he either has the car or the engine correct? Start with a measuring tape.

An average mechanic does not need to know a whole lot. A technician however is not an average mechanic. Not to belittle anyone btw. Although I wonder how many of us hybridz'rs are actually technicians former or present. Perhaps my view is skewed though as most of the people I interact with here are also technicians of one kind or another that can relate most or all the information.

There are "Windows" for these events that will guide you. Tony, Its the old slip fit style. Someone probably just did not set it up well. It was all one unit from the header to the differential as the PO welded it all up placing it near the driver side of the tunnel the whole way down. I fixed with with a couple of 'S' pipes. I do wish it was not welded. I prefer the slip fit style as long as I can get a precision fit that will seal. I guess thats asking a lot though with 2 pipes and generic assembly line style manufactured pieces on the cheap.

I am pretty good with an SU. I know my floats are not optimal, but they are very close to the measurement. Best I could do with a bit of clear tubing and a re-used 90* measuring piece from an old carb rebuild kit. These carbs are in good shape with the exception of the nozzle on the front carb that sticks IF you use the choke. My choke is not connected in any form and I check to be sure the nozzle does not fall down or something weird all the time. It never has. The slides are in good shape and Ive got a lot of work into those to tune transition period. They are not sticking. If I do have an issue with fuel its gonna be volume as that is the only thing I believe I have missed, but I do not see fuel pressure drop out of 4psi even under load. I have seen the slides in action as of last weekend though. As for the cam, yes I do know how to degree a cam and I can extrapolate pretty closely TDC and determine a lot of other things. I actually have a program that helps if I want to double check or just be lazy. You dont need 'advertised' information to figure out the details. If in doubt substitute .050" measurements, the math will still work out. This is one of the skills I actually did pick up from school(in a class called 'Hot Rod' of all things!) and not from another tech. Its possible Im off, but not by enough to cause this issue. Unfortunately Delta does not post cam cards online. If I had a chance to call them during business hours Im sure I could get it. I cannot find an email for them either.

Did you end up with that MSA head pipe Tony swipped up at the last show? LOL Do any of the head pipes you are using have the pipes extending past the flange into the manifold? Or are they all flat? Just curious really. I have slapped on some warped crusty head pipes onto these manifolds and as long as I use a fresh gasket and those head pipes with the slightly extended pipes that reach into the manifold collector I almost never have a leak. One of the head pipes I used was warped 1/8" at least on each outer bolt end. I double gasketed that one and it was fine for a few years before I swapped the engine out. I do not like the 260Z manifolds either. The material always seems to be 'softer' or 'more brittle' than older manifolds or later ones. The worst offenders though by far were the late 80's CA18e manfolds and cylinder heads. Both the aluminum and cast iron components might have well been made from red brick. Go ahead and try and heli-coil one of those and you will either go ape crazy on it or shoot yourself... Once you calm down you will realize its time to get a CA18de/VG30 or buy a new car. There was a guy in a suburban across the street at MSA pushing some ray-jay turbos on dyno day... But I did not get his number, and I laughed after he said he wanted $175 for a brand new MSA twice pipe kit... like the 2 I had just bought for a combined total of MUCH less during the swap meet there. Maybe try using double gaskets with those new fasteners unless your flange does not have those protruding pipes I mentioned. I can post a picture of what Im talking about if need be. Ray

Well, I played with the car a bit more. The cam is definitely dialed in as good as I can get it with my current setup. ~1* retard. After playing with the ign timing I found that the car picked up a small amount of top end by setting the base timing at 15* BTDC. I also found that my stock balancer was shifted a few degrees. I replaced it with an L28 balancer and timing mark indicator which from what I can tell shifted TDC to the old 5ATDC mark which is why I used the corresponding timing mark indicator. I verified TDC with an old spark plug tapped out and a 5/16" rod fitted with a dial indicator. Any more ign timing and the car exhibits other drivability issues. I did try retarding the cam some more, but I have a stock cam gear so Im somewhat limited in my adjustments and the result was just backfiring through the carb at around 4K rpm and power again dropped off worse than the current cam setting. I just had one of my other cars toss a nice set of issues at me as well which is not cool. I thought it developed an exhaust leak on my 150mile trip back from sacramento. Its an original 260Z with the stock carbs and EGR. I found that the flange to head pipe gasket was blown out, and the EGR tube finally gave up and cracked right in half. So I pulled everything off, ordered my carb rebuild kits from MSA, and put it all back together. The car wont restart due to something I did(most likely the replacement of the old vacuum lines and such as well as the fact that I installed an early non-egr balance tube on these carbs), but during crank I can still hear an exhaust leak. So I know that my exhaust is not leaking. Im betting after reading through the recent post by johnc head gasket burn through and remembering what that sounds like that Ive lost compression in #3 or #4 and the head gasket has blow out under the exhaust manifold... and I had just listed the car on CL for sale, sigh. So none of my Z cars are road worthy at the moment. 1971 240Z current post issue, 1972 240Z sitting for over a year with a multiple minor issues that need dealt with, 1974 260Z with blown head gasket, and 1974 260Z rb25 hit while parked & going to court with the insurance company. Murphy is an ice-hole and he doesnt like me or Datsuns. BTW, I installed a straight through 18" long by 2.5" ID anti-drone pipe in the center of the 240Z 2.5" exhaust. I have a Thrush 2.5" "Turbo" muffler at the end. It sounds much mellower now and gives a crisp note in the upper rpm range. The center 'anti-drone' muffler was from a mid 90's v6 camry I believe or possibly a lexus es300(same thing). The MSA 2.5" I have was either not assembled correctly by the P.O. or like the twice pipes I have from MSA were not designed well as it does not give you much clearance to install things like mufflers. I had to scrounge around my exhaust pile for 2.5" mandel piping with the proper bends to locate that camry anti-drone muffler in the center of the trans tunnel under the driveshaft and again to the left to clear the differential cross members. Ray

I can confirm this possibility. I consistently blew gaskets on a L24/N42 setup many years ago. It would blow between cyl #4 and #5 leaving me with 2 dead holes. It was a combo of slightly lean (running stock SU's) and poor surface condition between those cylinders. That made it the weak point that blew every time and in pretty short order.

To be honest I have no idea. Ive been just dealing with the problem for so long even a break from working on it has not allowed me any insight into the problem and I do diagnosis for a living. My only guess is that its something simple that Ive overlooked as that tends to be my kind of mistakes in the past. I was in a rush when I wrote that. I did not use a degree wheel with a dial gauge on the rocker arm to set the cam up. I do no have a cam card for this cam. As I said I tend to miss the simple things like making sure this cam is setup at zero. I have not had the chance yet to even check on it. I set the cam up using the stock markers like an idiot. Yes Leon I did follow that thread long ago and I did re-read it. I still stand by my statement. To my knowledge the volume in the pipe is the restriction in more than one way. There is a reason behind twice pipes out there. I know dual 2" works well. 50mm twice pipes work really well on a stock L24. Much better than 2.5" single... and its not because its 'bigger'. I guess I should never have used to "big" as my description. My biggest problem with my exhaust is that its a one size fits all 6-2-1 header with almost no length secondaries and the entire 2.5" exhaust system is really the collector. At best all it is, is a silencer.