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Todd at Wolfcreek said that they were ported downstream of the throttle plates to match the intake manifold. Maybe that is where he got the 50mm from? He said there is no going back to 44 at this point. I know nothing about these carbs (leaning).

What are your HP goals? Build the long block to support those goals, and then choose carb/venturi based on that. When you say the chokes are removed, you really mean venturi, right? When you remove the venturis from 44PHH carbs, it makes them approximately 50mm. That's why they were illegal at the time.

Race fuel. My beef with ethanol in gas is that it creates all sorts of problems with carburetors, pumps and fuel tanks. Some marine tanks are fiberglass. Ethanol eats right through it. It tends to take any residue in the tank and dislodge it so that it can travel into the carb. It clogged the carbs twice in my ZRX1100 (until I started using Stabil Marine). Anyone running carbs these days should always use an ounce per 5-10 gallons. Cheap insurance. I run it in everything with a carb now: bike, lawnmowers, boat, etc. http://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22239-Marine-Fuel-Stabilizer/dp/B000UJG0LE Pete

That's what I was wondering. I thought it was a gear LSD that might work in an open carrier. But if you guys think it's the internals to a CLSD, you're probably right. In the same box there are three small boxes of R180 CLSD plates.

They modified the 44mm to cheat. They look like 44s on the outside, but are really 50mm. You need and engine that has at a 250WHP potential to use 50mm carbs.

These are the carbs that were used on that head. The manifold runners have been enlarged and the ports match the head. Now, I don't know crap about these carburetors, but I am starting to learn. Todd at Wolfcreek says they are 44mm that were modified back in the day so that now they are essentially 50mm.

We recently acquired a bunch of S30 parts from what was left of Bob Sharp Racing. Opened this box: And found this: Obviously it is a gear LSD for an R180. Standard R180 bolt in companion flanges have the correct spline count. And you can see that it is designed for bolt in flanges. Any ideas? Worth using in a street application? Thanks, Pete

I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my car, and like you meant Jon, it is instantaneous. Use an -3AN braided stainless line instead of the cheap nylon ones that come with some of the gauges if you are worried about leakage. Electric temperature is fine. I also have a oil pressure kill switch on the ignition system. Not a bad idea in case you are sucking air in hard corners. You could also wire up and indicator light that would illuminate when you lost oil pressure.

Yes, relays are a good idea. But, they add a lot more complexity to the wiring, and add more components to fail. And, they add a lot more cost (weight too). If you buy good quality switches that can handle the current in the circuit they are switching, then you should not have issues. Also, always put the circuit protection between the battery and the switch in case the switch does short. Next year I plan on doing some vintage races along with the time trials I usually do. The EFI has to go to run in C Production. I am switching to Mikunis so that I don't have to run with some crazy fast IMSA GTU cars. I've got a lot of wiring in the car, including at least 4 relays. I plan on completely rewiring the car for simplicity and ease of service when at the track. To me, the only reason to have relays is if you are controlling pumps, fans, etc. with an ECU. Otherwise you are just adding another switch to a switch (if you know what I mean). Pete

I only have the molds for the other air dam. I think that it was an early model that maybe was disallowed in C production. That is why I can't find any pics on the web. It looks like it was made the same time the fender flares were. The fender flares are early designs as well. I'll take some photos of the molds. I'm not really interested in selling the molds, but if there is a lot of interest, we may have a few sets made. Pete

Found this schematic on the web. Looks like it would do the trick. No relays and you could replace the fuses with circuit breakers. http://cranston-racing.com/images/POWER-1A.pdf The Taurus fan seems overkill. Yo just have to go real fast Jon Seriously, I'm using a aftermarket 14" fan in my race car and it is more than sufficient to keep it cool on the grid. It draws around 12A. Pete

Aren't you glad I shared the images? Intake ports are around 1 9/16" Middle exhaust ports are 1 1/2" x 1 5/8" Outer exhaust ports are 1 1/2" x 1 1/4"

I was thinking something like this: http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d62.html And you really don't need relays for circuits less than 20A. Even your Taurus fan probably uses less than 20A. Use simple sealed toggle switches like this one: http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p995.html I have a simple race car schematic I drew up a while ago, let me see if I can find it. Pete

Making your own harness is really not all that hard. In a race car just keep it simple for things like wipers, gauges, brake lights, etc. Use resetable circuit breakers that are within reach of the driver so that if it trips, you can at least try to reset it without having to get out of your seat. Use heavy duty toggle switches for everything to avoid using relays. For auto-x you probably don't need a battery switch, but I would install one that cuts the battery, and alternator. Located on the outside of the car so corner workers can find it. Are you using a carb with the LSx? If so, ignore below... If you modify the LSx harness correctly, it should be self contained and include all fuse and relays. Reuse as much of the OEM engine harness, fuse block, and or relay panel. Depending on where the relay and fuses required by the ECM were located in the donating vehicle, you may need to add more fuses and or relays. When I did my RB swap I made the engine wire completely self contained and separate from the stock 240Z electricals. I built this fuse and relay plate which mounts to the ECU: The motor will run with a minimum of 4 connections: - Battery + - Battery - - Ignition Switch (+12V when ignition is on) - +12v to fuel pump Additional connections are: - Tach signal - +12v to fan - Coolant gauge signal - Oil pressure gauge signal I suggest thinking it through a bunch of times and drawing a schematic of at least the engine wiring. This is what I drew for me RB swap: I would also suggest keeping the LSx wiring separate from the body electrical. Pete

So again, I have the entire mold set for the body kit for the Newman/Sharp 280ZX as configured in this R&T article: http://zhome.com/History/Electramotive/ElSh28zx.htm The only mold I don't have is for the rear spoiler, but I have a bunch of good spoilers that molds can be made from (I also have tow original ZXR spoilers). Here are the fender molds: I also have the air dam and front bumper molds for the same car. I also have mold for a unique 280ZX air dam that I can't identify. I can post photos if people are interested. So any of you 280ZX guys interested in a real Bob Sharp ZXR kit? Pete

Unless you want to re-drill the 4 booster mounting holes in the firewall, use a 70-72 booster. You can get remanufactured ones through Black Dragon. When I built my 71' I had it all apart, so I re-drilled the firewall and installed a 280Z booster for more power assist. It fits (barely clears the throttle post). Don't waste time and money on a 15/16" MC BTW. If used with the stock brakes all it does is increase pedal pressure, which is not a good thing considering that the 240Z booster has less power assist to begin with. Use a 7/8" MC with stock brakes (as Nissan did).

Nice EFI posting frenzy! Great information as always Paul. Thanks for the effort, Pete

It's been running great for two road race seasons. Probably well over 1000 track miles. Here are some current photos: Also had it at the Convention this year in Nashville. When JR Mitchell (Bob Sharp Racing) saw the dual TB setup he said "Cool". A man of few words. But he competed in the autocross with it, and really like the throttle response. Anyway, we are looking to do some vintage races next year, and the EFI will have to go (unless we want to be running with IMSA and GTU cars). I've acquired a bunch of Bob Sharp parts, including an E31 head and Mikunis, so this is probably the route we will go next year. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95308-bsr-gtu-e31-head-images/

Here are some photos of a Bob Sharp GTU head I picked up with a bunch of other BSR stuff. It's and E31, and was most likely used on this car: I also have the port matched intake and Mikunis. Here is a piston that I believe was setup for this head:

No, EFI.

OK, nothing after 4 days and 68 views... Tony D., where are you!!! They came from what S30 parts were left from Bob Sharp Racing. So, maybe Datsun Competition? I'm looking at the Datsun Competition catalog (with the Bob Sharp Z on the cover), and it shows a "Factory Aluminum Radiator 21400-N3120" (not a picture unfortunately). Maybe it's one of these?

Your goals are achievable with the parts you have. It's all in the tune. I've been running a 180WHP track car for a few years now with a mild cam and 10:1 CR. Rock solid. Nice video BTW...

Actually, yes a bit funny when you can pickup a 19x17 wheel without hardly any effort. Even with the tire it is amazing how light they are. They are pretty standard BBS racing wheels. This is what it looks like with the original wheels:

Bob Sharp 280ZX twin turbo V8 IMSA - One (big) Lug! Bob Sharp 280ZX C Production - 4 lug I know the guy that bought Bob Sharp Racing a few years back.

Maybe that is why the guy was selling it? With a custom drive shaft you should always measure the correct length and have it fabricated or one shortened. Also, make sure to have it balanced or you will have a drivetrain vibration.