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Swain coated Cosworth piston: With Carrillo rod: Block ready for assembly:

For 93 octane, I would keep the CR below 11:1. I would use a piston that gets you the CR your looking for with a stock head gasket. I have a Bob Sharp prepared C production crank going in my race motor build. There is no knife edging, no lightening, all standard dimensions. They basically deburred the casting, drilled out the plugs and tapped them NPT, and tuftriding. Then they verified straightness, balance, and an ultra polish to the journals. They never had any problems with L28 cranks. IMO, you will be spending a lot on machining for little to no gain. I just got the bill from my machinist: $2100. Basic boring, balancing, checking, polishing, mainline hone, rod sizing, cleaning, head and block resurface, etc. etc. But nothing like you are talking about. It's going to cost a lot for all the machining for what, 50cc displacement? If you are getting custom pistons anyway: L28 crank and rods, E88, 89mm custom flat top pistons, 1mm big bore head gasket = 2949cc @ 10.63:1 CR. Or if you want a better rod to stroke ratio use 9mm L24 rods and adjust the piston compression height to get the right deck clearance and CR. Pete

If you send them to Witch Hunter, they will clean, flow test, and replace the pintle caps and screens. All you need to do is put new hoses on. At $19 each, it's worth it. http://www.witchhunter.com/

I think you will be OK running 93 octane and a conservative ignition advance. Whether you go with a programmable EFI or SUs, it doesn't matter. What matters is that you spend some time on the dyno tuning. Personally, I'd rather tune from my laptop than play with carburetor jets and SM needles. And as others have mentioned, you might as well upgrade the cam to get the most of the increased CR.

Oh, that's all . Well, that's enough to make the stock EFI have issues.

All you need is a long bolt, a large washer, crow bar, and some wood blocks. Lay the blocks on the oil pan gasket surface and use them as a pivot point for the pry bar. Arrange the blocks so they aren't sitting on top of the bearing cap. Think like you are pulling out a long nail. Pry straight up.

If the only change from stock you did was bore it 0.020 over, then the stock EFI will work fine.

Uh, yes... Driven a Rebello 3.2 240Z with triple Mikunis. Dave knows how to build an engine. My point is that it will run only as good as your tune. There are hundreds of stand alone programmable ECUs out there. Anywhere from $500 (Megasquirt), to $4000+ (Motec).

Going along with what Tony said: You will most likely never get that engine to run right with a mix of OEM EFI parts. You really only have three adjustments: Fake the coolant sensor with a series varible resistor (low speed mixture) Fuel pressure AFM You need tune-ability across the entire RPM and load bands. Since you probably have a lot into that Rebello motor, it would be a waste not to utilize it with the proper tune.

More block boring photos: I should have all the short block components ready for assembly in the next two weeks.

The block doesn't need to be notched because the unshrouded area around the valves matches the 87mm bore. I'm not about to cut the unshrouded area more, and then notch the block. Here is one of the cryo treated and REM/ISF polished resurfaced OEM rockers:

Hey Jon, Yea, you're probably right. I know from a reliable source that valve open pressure should be in the 330lbs range. Closed should be around 130lbs. That's for a 0.600 lift cam. I have a set of Crane springs, which I am not using, but maybe I'll ahve the pressure measured. I am using the springs that cam in the BSR C Production head. And as you might expect, the valves are already unshrouded to an 87mm bore, as that is the only bore they ran for an L28 in C Production.

Artic Cat Snowmobile mirrors look pretty good too. I will post some photos once I have them mounted.

I would trust what Isky provided with the kit. I am using the springs that came in the BSR head I have. They were good for the cam they ran, which is a bit more aggressive than the Isky one we have. I'm looking to have a bit more of a power band. I have a few sets of lash pads, so I should have the correct thickness.

I plan on using a copper head gasket with an 87mm bore, but good thinking on the 90.5mm gasket as I might use a 2mm one of those if it makes the CR turn out correct. Here is the block freshly decked, and honed. Next is to install torque plate and final bore to 87mm.

Tomei makes 90.5mm L6 gaskets: 1.0mm 1.2mm 1.5mm 2.0mm There is a guy on Ebay that sells them for around $250. He can get all thicknesses http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330513420533&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT http://www.ooparts-international.co.jp/index/car/listbybrand/tomei/gasket/index.html

Hey Ken, The 280Z booster you have in there is the best choice. In 70-72 240Zs a good upgrade is the 280Z booster as it gives you a bit more power assist. While yours is out, I would replace it with a reman unit. Pete

Glad to see someone looked at it. I think it is correct. The bore is 8.7cm, the piston radius is 4.35cm. Gasket volume is: PI*(4.35cm)^2*(0.2cm)=11.89cc Please check again. Thanks, Pete

Are you kidding? Have you ever been to Lowes, Home Depot, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc. etc.? Of course they make primer in black!!!! Dude, you need to get out more.

Yes, it would look stupid. You have done a nice job on your bodywork. Forget about flares. You can run 8" wide wheels with the stock fenders, which is plenty for street use.

I had the following both Cryo-Treated & REM ISF: - cam - rockers - valve springs - retainers It was $240 http://www.cryosciencetechnologies.com/

Latest update: Pistons are off for coating. Cam, rockers, springs, etc. are back from cryo treating. Waiting for torque plate for final honing. Nearing having everything ready for final machining. See attached spreadsheet. Make sense to everyone? comp_calc.zip

Same idea. Mine is either an aluminum washer, or plate aluminum that was machined and welded in. But, there wasn't a thermostat in the housing, and it was sealed that way.

Don't forget about head gasket thickness and compression ratio.

Hussey quoted me $100 for any thickness less than 0.100. http://www.husseyperformance.com/PDF/Gasket%20Catalog%20-%20Rev%2013%20-%2008.pdf Here are a couple Kameari gaskets on Ebay. http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=Kameari+gasket&_sacat=See-All-Categories