z-ya

Lavern Burkhart. He has a beautiful 73'240 with the JCR supercharger kit. This car is clean, and he is not afraid to get it dirty. He did mid 13s at the drags, and a ver respectable autocross time. In this event you had to score well in all three categories.

I experienced first hand what a 240Z can do with an LS1/T56 swap: Thanks to Dave (quick240Z) for letting me drive his Z. We ran out of road real quick! Nice car, clean install. Thanks again Dave! Thanks to Dave (1tuffz) for dusting me in the straights on the Skip Barber course at Daytona. Being right behind you exiting the turn before the front straight, and then having you create at least a 100 yard separation on the straight, is quite impressive. I did catch you at turn 2, but you lost me again on the next straight. My 71' project is getting a V8 of some sort for sure!

I run the following wheel tire combos: 245-45ZR16 on 16x8 rims 225-45ZR15 on 15x7 rims 225-50ZR15 on 15x7 rims The camber is maxed out so LR = RR and LF = RF. I don't have camber plates so I've just slotted the shock towers. Where are you measuring ride height, bottom lip of fender? I'll try your toe suggestions, but I need to get it running again first. Thanks,

The car is handling better than it ever has. The problem is that I changed the springs from 250lb to 350lb at the same time I changed the shocks. Overall, the dampening characteristics seem to be better than the Illuminas, but with stiffer springs there is less travel under hard cornering and braking, so it may not be a fair comparison. Right now I have the dampening set at 50% front, and around 30% rear. The car turns-in great. I softened up the rear a bit which makes the rear come around a bit more predictable. Overall the handling is neutral. Hear is the approximate alignment: Camber front: -2.5 Camber rear: -2 Toe front: 0 Toe rear: 0 Caster front: stock

Yes, I ran the Skip Barber road course at the convention in Daytona. I was supposed to do the Sebring event also, but an electrical gremlin cut my trip short. No Problems with the shocks after a number of track days.

Thanks to Scott Blankenship, Ken Jones, and the entire ZCON 2007 team. Job well done! Photos will be available hear soon: http://www.highlanddesignstudio.com/motorsport/Zcon07/Zcon07-home.html

Running a production 280Z chassis in GT2 will put you at a huge disadvantage. Almost all winning GT2 Z cars are tube frame purpose built. You can run ITS with the stock EFI and be competitive.

Can you run EFI in SCCA GT2? As far as I know, you still need to run carbs. Or, is it a GT2 engine you want to use in a street car? There are many different systems out there. Wolf, and Electromotive are good ones (there are many more). Whichever you choose, you will have to spend significant time on the dyno getting the most out of an L6 setup for GT2.

I use a very thin film of silicone sealant on the plugs. You need to get all of the grease and oil off first with brake cleaner or acetone. I know one of the Bob Sharp engine builders, and they epoxy them in on all out 15:1 CR race motors. If it popped out, it sounds like you have other issues. I have never had one pop out of my turbo motor, and I've done many track events with it. Is your head gasket sealing well? If you have a head gasket leak into the water jacket, it might cause one to pop out when your under boost.

Hear is a post to the dwell measurements I made on them: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120533 The MS will drive 2 LS1 coils in a wasted spark type arrangement. I have not actually got them installed and running on an engine yet, but electrically it should work. I'm at the convention, and am real tired after a long track day at Daytona. So that's all for now.

Nice job on the writeup and the installation!

Duh, I should have read your post a little better. My bad.... Low Z injectors are usually in the 2-2.8 Ohm range. Maybe the Supra injectors are a little different. But two are way out of spec (or 4 are depending on what nominal impedance should be for those injectors). Get them cleaned and flow tested first, Witchunter Performance can do your set for around $100. If they all come back flowing about the same, then group the injectors so that each of the two groups of three have two 3.5Ohm, and one 5.8Ohm in the group. This will balance the impedance between the two output drivers. If you have the two 5.8Ohm, and one 3.5Ohm injector on a output driver, this could be causing your problem. The PWM controls control both drivers together, so the impedance between the banks should be close to the same. Also, be sure that you are using a good quality Ohm meter, cheap ones are not so accurate at low DC resistances.

For the injector wires on non-webbed manifolds, Teflon coated wire is the best. Put the HF wire in some plastic conduit to protect it from heat.

Are they high or low impedance? If they are high impedance, then you set the PWM controls as if you had resistors in there (PWM limit = 100%, PWM time = 25).

Very nice work!

It is basically SU manifolds grafted onto a severed EFI manifold. I cut the EFI manifold just after the injector mounting screw.

My point it simple, if you can carry more speed in the turn, you have to slow down less on your entry into the corner. The less you have to slow down, the easier it is on the brakes. Also, the more speed you can carry through the turn, the higher the top speed at the end of the straight.

My Wife's Altima with the 2.5L and 5-speed moves really well considering it's weight. It would be cool to see how it moved a 2200lb 240Z.

If you plan on running the L24 for a while, just get the stock brakes in good working condition. DOT4 or better fluid, Porterfield R4S or Hawk HP-Plus pads will give you a good bite on the track, but not too aggressive for the street. In the rear OEM Nissan shoes work quite well on the track. You can also get the R4S compound on 240Z shoes. Another option is to upgrade the front to a vented setup using 300ZX rotors, Toyota calipers, and the correct spacers for your hubs. I'm running this setup along with drums in the rear, and it is a great track setup. I'm using the stock MC, but I shoe-horned a 280Z booster in there for more power assist. Swapping the booster is a lot of work BTW. I'm using Porterfield R4 shoes and pads, and the stock prop valve. Of course the more track days you do, the less you will use the brakes. As you learn to carry more and more speed into a turn, you will rely less on the brakes. Yes, a road course is tough on brakes, but as you gain more experience, you will be surprised how easy you can be on your brakes. I've got well over 2000 track miles on my R4 pads in the front, and they still have over 50% pad left.

What plugs are you running, and what is the gap?

Do you have the stock 7/8" MC or a 15/16" one?

You can also run extra code in a fuel only mode. Keep the stock ignition, and trigger the MS off the negative coil terminal. Just leave the ignition output unconnected.

Haven't done much with them lately. They may end up on the race car along with a Rebello head this winter. If this is the direction I go, I'll post photos and dyno results.

You should not need to re-torque a stock head gasket. I've got a parts P90A head with hydraulic lifters. I don't know if they are good, but I can send you a couple to try.

From you map, it looks like you are running 31deg at 180Kpa (80 kpa absolute pressure, or 11.6psi). You should be in the 25deg range to be safe. This is also the torque peak RPM range of a L28ET. Also, 40deg advance below 100KPA is also aggressive for a 7.4:1 engine with a stock cam. Max advance across the entire table should be 35deg. I would set you table from 1000RPM up like this: KPA Advance 220 20 200 23 180 25 160 27 140 29 120 31 100 33 Did you verify that your actual timing matches your advance map with a timing light?