z-ya

I've been running a Wolf system in my turbo car for close to 7 years now, and it never misses a beat. Yea, I had problems getting the kinks worked out at first, but all were my fault. I've have had zero problems with the Wolf unit itself.

I have a 2003 350Z that is 100% stock, and I plan on keeping it that way. I've got enough projects in the works. I love the powerband of the VQ35. Flat torque curve, linear power. It is great fun to drive (my nice day, daily driver). Putting the VQ35 in an S30 would be a great project, and a nice power to weight ratio. If I were to do a project like that, I would swap the Nissan engine management as well. Out of the box, the VQ35 runs amazing. Why throw away all that Nissan engineering?

What are you running for timing at 10psi? I'd say 24-25deg is a good start. I've run that for years on my stock L28ET at 12psi without any detonation. AFR should be in the 11.5-12.5 range. 15psi is the most you should ask of the stock head gasket. Any more than that, and you should be running a metal gasket. Then things get really tricky because if you mess up your tuning at 18-20 psi with a metal gasket, something has to give. As Tony said, usually it is pistons.

Pull the two wire plug off the alternator, and see if the problem goes away. If that has no effect, disconnect the large wire form the alternator. If the alternator is the source of the problem, this will identify it. Also, what size are your injectors? Are you using PWM or series resistors inline with your injectors? If at 12V, the injectors are not opening all the way, but providing the right amount of fuel for a good idle, then when the voltage increases, the injectors may open all the way, making it run too rich.

The battery voltage looks fine. As long as it is above 11V or so, the MS will work fine. Disconnect the alternator, and put a batter charger on the battery. See how it runs with the alternator disconnected.

In the front, they are the same as the MR2 struts I cut the tubes to match. The rear required about a 1" spacer at the bottom of the strut. The rears were shortened to fit 240Z strut cartridges. John can tell you the exact length of the HTS cartridge.

The ignitor is electrically designed to fire that coil. As long as the maximum dwell is not exceeded for an extended period, it will be very reliable. The whole assembly is designed to be in the engine compartment, and is potted (sealed). The driver is extremely close to the coil, minimizing resistive and inductive losses (more energy to the coil). OEM components are usually super reliable. You can get a new one at any auto parts store if you have a failure. Using VB921s, you need to mount them on a heat sink, and seal them. If you mount them in the MS, you will have long wires from the VB921 to the coil. Plus, having all that inductive noise inside the MS is not such a great idea.

Use COP coils that have the igniter built in. It is a much better solution that using VB921 drivers in the MS-II. Yes, there are three ignition outputs, so in a sense you are firing two coils when only one is required. With COP you have one coil per cylinder, unlike real wasted spark setups that share a coil between cylinders. In this case one cylinder always get slightly less spark than the other. The LS-1 and GM truck coils work great, and are easy to find used.

I used this cam on my SC project (now melted down....): Compcams #84-131-4 indur outdur inlift outlift 280 280 .460 .460 See top plot Since melting that engine down, I put this cam in a 10:1 NA L28 with a n47 head, and it is making around 185WHP.

Exactly! For street use, the stock brakes are more than adequate. Good to hear you got it figured out.

Pull the MC away from the booster, and look at the rod in the booster. There are two different lengths. They are also adjustable. The tip unscrews so that you can remove and or adjust it. So you can either swap the tip from your old booster, or adjust the one on the new booster so that it is the same length as the one you replaced.

It is the club race car which is co-owned by myself, Gnosez, and Roostmonkey. I'm trailering it to the convention. As you can see by this photo, there is way too much compression in turns with the 250lb springs: I'm not bringing the silver turbo car to the Convention.

The car has a 6 point cage, BadDog frame rails, triangulating front strut brace, and rear strut brace. It has the budget camber plates (slotted shock tower bolt holes). It also has front and rear adjustable control arm busings. I think they would work fine, but I don't have any experience using them with 225lb springs. We had Illuminas in there before.

The shocks have one adjustment, damping. It is an infinitely adjustable Allen socket that you can adjust from the top. So it changes both compression and rebound simultaneously (not individually adjustable).

If there is a hissing sound around the booster, then you need a new brake booster. They are around $200 from Black Dragon Auto. I just put one in my turbo car.

I'm running 350lb front, and 375lb rear. If you are building a street car, stick with 250lb springs.

They are still available. John at Betamotorsports can get them. The struts are shortened. You don't need to shorten them, you can run spacers at the bottom of the cartridge if you want.

I've known for a couple years now that the 225lb springs on the track car were not cutting it. Lot's of compression in hard turns, and body roll to go along with it. The time trial I did in July blew three of the 4 Tokico Iluminas on the car. This made for a very exciting time trial event. I was still able to man handle it only 1 second slower than my all time best for that track configuration. Time for new shocks and springs. It is well known that the Iluminas are not good for spring rates much over 250lbs. So I need shocks that can handle the track, and the new 350lb springs that are ready to go in. This is a budget racer, so spending $300-$400 per corner on shocks is out of the question. In come the Tokico HTS shocks I got from John at Betamotorsports. Infinitely adjustable damping, and a very good price. According to John, they should be able to handle upwards of 400lb springs. This week I've put close to 400 track miles on the new setup. The car is so much flatter in the turns. It also turns better than it ever has. I've got the new shocks set in the middle, which seems pretty good. The car is much easier to break free through the chicanes and tight turns. I'm running Hoosier DOT slicks on it. In wide sweeping turns I can carry much more speed, and the car is more controlable. I meant to experiment with the shock adjustment on Thursday, but I had three students, each of which did 4 sessions. Just keeping my lunch down was a struggle. I'll keep everyone up to date on how the Tokico HTS shocks work out. So far, I really like them. Next track events are at the Convention in Daytona. I'm also bringing it to the track day at Sebring the day after.

All Datsun L6 engines have the same outside dimensions, so any of them is a direct swap. I would find an L28ET or L28E.

When you crank the engine (disconnect the coil wire), do you see a stable RPM in Megatune?

I just did the heat and bend thing to avoid welding. On another car I did cut and weld. Bending it worked out better because the overall length of the shifter was shorter, giving it a better feel (less sloppy).

Yes, there are 4 connections, but only 2 output drivers in the MS. Connect 1 to injectors 123, and 3 to injectors 456.

The later shifter is shorter, and has a better feel. The bushings are also a lot more rugged. You just need to heat it and bend it to contour the same as the older shifter. After doing that, it just pops out of the top of the shift boot.

There are only two injector drivers on the MS, so each one needs to fire 3 injectors.

I don't think they are swappable Jon.