z-ya

I never tuned a Tech II, but there must be a way to calibrate the TPS to the system. Check your manual. The middle pin of the connector should go to the ECU. One of the other pins should have 5V on it. The other should be ground. You need to determine the proper polarity. Use an Ohm meter to check this. At idle, the resistance between ground and the middle pin should be close to zero. At WOT, the resistance should be maximum (like 5KOhm or so).

It sounds to me like detonation. What is your full advance ignition timing set to? If it is an NA distributor, and the timing is set as if it were an NA, the total advance will be around 30deg. Way too much for a stock turbo motor. What boost pressure are you running? If you are running more than stock, yank the boost controller out for the time being and see if the problem goes away. I've seen people use NA electronics with a turbo motor, and we couldn't get it to run just right. We also had to back off the timing a lot to prevent detonation. This made the sluggish when not under boost.

What did Courtesy charge for the brackets?

If you have used all the LED outputs, use one of the spare outputs on the processor, and add the transistor circuit to the breadboard on the V3 PCB.

Just use the tach output on the MS. You need to either use one of the LED outputs, or add a transistor to drive the tach. Adding an extra load to the EDIS module PIP signal is probably not a good idea. If you are going to add extra components, add them on the breadboard area inside the MS V3.

Looks like you have the right tools to do the job, nice work!

When you add nitrous, don't you need to add fuel too? That is the hardest part of adding nitrous to a car, adding the right amount of fuel so you don't run lean and start melting things.

Exactly Clifton. I do the same thing. JRD, it looks like you have some crud in the tank, and the only way to tell is if it holds pressure under load.

Jon, $460 for a set of 6 forged pistons? Are they 240SX pistons? Are you sure that price isn't for 4?

You are using flat top (no dish) 240SX pistons, right? Have you bored the block yet? Shave the head, and shim the towers. Use 0.015 shims. This should get you to 10:1, which is about as high as you should good for street engine using an N42 head. http://goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=3499&SID=1001e7d6a592ea310ee4dbc6175737c3

With dished pistons (8.3:1 CR), you might make around 130WHP. With flat pistons (10:1CR), and a mild cam (460 lift/280 duration), it should be in the 180WHP range.

Justin, What are you going to use for spline shafts?

Which injector drivers are driving injectors to what cylinders? The MS not powering up without the laptop connected sounds like a grounding problem. Is the laptop running on batteries, or are you powering it from the car's battery?

I wouldn't use anything too thick. You want it to respond quickly when you are off the throttle. Mine has stuck a couple times in the past (last time at the convention track day at Watkins Glenn). After that I lubed it with some motorcycle chain lube, which is kind of sticky, but slippery (if that makes any sense). It has been working fine since. It does chatter when you are at partial throttle, and around atmospheric pressure.

That is the wiggle you get with and LSD. It always puts a smile on my face! What spline shafts did you use?

Nice work! I have the same BOV, and it does the same thing as yours. I'm trying to put a dyno day together on 6/9. Let me know if you want me to reserve you a spot. Blew a couple pistons on my supercharged track car last week. It has MS and EDIS. I'm scrambling now to tear it down, and get it back together for the 9th so I can tune it. Now I wish it was street legal as I could tune it on the street (at least get it close). Keep the videos coming. Nice job!

He is still selling is products on Ebay. Nice guy, nice products. http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZjskinnovations

What engine? I find that sending them out for cleaning and flow testing is the best value. Pick up some junkyard spares, and send 7 or 8 out for cleaning in case some leak or are not repairable.

Tune it the same as the MS-I. Set your PWM current limit % and time threshold per this table. Set injector opening time to 1ms. Set battery compensation to default (0.2ms/V). Set the injector PWM period to 50us. This is equivalent to 20kHz in frequency. This is what MS-I uses. If you look at the measurement I made, the period of the ripple on the hold current is what the PWM period controls. If you look closely, you can fit about 10 of those cycles into one grid on the scope display. The timebase is 500us, so 500/10 = 50us.

Yup, that's Roostmonkey's green monster. Sean can take (not always) a long time (we call it paint prison), but his work is excellent.

Greg, Call Clark's Autobody in Pepperell Ma. He painted Roostmonkey's, Gnoze, and my 280Z. He has also done other Zs. Quality work, at a decent price. Ask for Sean, and tell him the guys from the Z club sent you. http://clarksautobody.com/ Pete

Great work! I encourage anyone looking to make new and innovative products for the S30 chassis.

Buy the MS-II, and it you find that the MS-II extra code does not do everything that the MS-I extra code does, you can just buy the programmed MS-I processor for like $10 and turn it into an MS-I.

A big bore (89mm) 1mm thick gasket would be nice. Metal layered like the NISMO gasket. As far as I know the 1mm NISMO gaskets are NLA.

Looking great. Keep up the good work!