z-ya

The Ford VR sensor used in EDIS systems has worked well for me in the past.

Wolf uses a 4 tooth wheel for 6 cylinder applications. Three placed 120 deg appart, with the last tooth placed next to the TDC tooth so the ECU knows where TDC is.

If your compression ratio goal is around 8.8:1, and the head is flat, don't waste your time and money shaving it and replacing the valves. You also need to shim the cam towers BTW. If you are looking for a CR in the 10:1 range (the most I would run on todays pump gas), then you will need to do the shave/N series valves/shims thing. You can run N42 or N47 valves BTW.

You can get to 8.8:1 with a Felpro gasket (1mm).

They look great in black.

At $150-$200 each you would.

At the convention they had one of the NASCAR garage bays setup as a photo studio. They wet down the floor. I was actually going to say that it wasn't a photo of a plastic model in my original post.... (it does look like it) No, it's real, and an amazing restoration. Pete Brock provided Carl many photos of the car when it was raced so that he could do an accurate restoration.

If you want to see an amazing rally car restoration, see Carl Beck's BRE 240Z rally racer. It was at the convention this past year in Daytona. It is an amazing restoration, right down to the BRE forged pistons in the 13:1 L24 race motor. I have more photos I took from the convention that I can post if people are interested.

The few number of teeth, the more interpolation the ECU needs to do between trigger pulses. The CAS is a three magnet wheel, correct? I'm fairly certain that the MS cannot use a three oulse per revolution wheel. Another problem with the CAS crank pully is that the magnet tend to fly off when they get old. Save yourself a lot of trouble and use a 36-1 wheel. Yes, there is some fabrication involved, but one you go MS, there is no going back to stock (easily anyway). DIYAutotune has the trigger wheels and sensors.

Welcome back Dan!

I think you want the outputs to be inverted, otherwise the VB921 will be on all the time. This will eventually burn out the VB921s. If I remember correctly, the VB921 will energize the coil when there zero volts on its input. The LED outputs are a positive 5V output. This is why they outputs must be set to "inverted" in MT.

You still don't need to take it apart. Just clean it with solvent and blow with compressed air. If you drill out the rivets, you will need to replace them. Not sure what the rivet size is, but if you try to install the gasket without rivets holding the layers together, the layers are bound to shift when you try and torque it. The uncompressed 2mm gasket is about the same height at the head locator dowels, so it is a little tricky even with the rivets in place. Just another note: are you running crazy amounts of boost where you need a metal gasket? Are you 100% sure about your tune where you will not have any detonation? Stock head gaskets can easily handle 15psi, and act as a nice safety fuse if you detonate. I would rather swap a gasket, than a crank, rods and pistons if my tune is on the edge or I get some bad gas. Just an FYI....

Clean it with a good solvent that doesn't leave any residue, and then blow dry with compressed air. Spray a 2-3 coats of copper gasket spray, and you should be good to go.

I was using the port injectors only. No fuel puddling problems, just a lot of heat. The TB was just that, no injectors. So my point is that if he runs it wet (TBI), the intake air temp may not be a problem. Plus, I was using it on a road racer where I was pushing it really hard for 30minute sessions. I was planning on adding two more injectors just below the TB for cooling, but I melted the motor before I had a chance to. For street use, it is not a bad setup.

Looks great! You definitely need a lower profile air cleaner. Also, a knock sensor is a good idea. I ran a similar setup (flat tops, P79, mild cam, 8.5:1 CR) on my road racer and eventually had a melt down. Running 180WHP NA L28 now. L28ET waiting in the wings. - Intake air temps reached over 280F (you should do better running it wet) - The SC is so loud (especially without an air cleaner and cowl hood), that you cannot hear detonation when it happens. - Those old Camden superchargers generate a lot of heat. Dyno plot before and after SC: Racing trim:

I had the work done at Durabild in Nashua NH, ask for Skip. He worked on a Z SCCA race team back in the seventies, so he has rebuilt literally 100s of Z transmissions and rear ends. Skip said that even with the correct puller (which he has), the bearing can get slightly deformed, limiting their life. The bearing casing is much stronger on the end where you press them on, as compared to the end where the puller applies force. The bearings cost $50 each (cheap insurance).

No problems with the installation. As you might expect, he had to install new shims to get the ring and pinion to mesh properly. New carrier bearings are required because once you pull the old bearings off the carrier they get deformed enough where they are not usable. He didn't need to touch the pinion or pinion bearing. He also installed new seals. I'll post an update when I get it installed and I have a chance to test drive it.

I run twisted pair for both the CLT and IAT sensors. Ground the sensor back at the MS, not on the engine. The engine ground can be very noisy.

Justin, Have you tried any of the prototyping machine services? At least get some free quotes. http://www.zerohourparts.com/index.php http://www.metal-craft.com/prototype_services.html http://www.incodema.com/ http://www.rpquote.com/

???? Haven't heard from him yet. I'll call him next week to see if he started working on it.

Good yto hear you found your culprit. NGK makes some of the best quality OEM replacement wires you can get. I would use them in all L6 applications where you retain the distributor. For L6s with DIS (no disty), I've used Jacobs and Summit universal kits with great success.

I dropped an OBX and a 280Z R200 off at my differential guy today for installation. I'll post when I hear back from him.

You can assume that 255 entered in the load column is equal to your MAP sensor's max pressure. So if you have a 400kPA sensor, and you have told MS about it in the "constants" section in MT, then you might be good to go. The key word is "might". I wouldn't assume anything. I would test the MAP sensor with a compressor and regulator to see where in the 0-255 range your target boost pressure resides. So if you want to run 30psi, set the compressor regulator to 30psi and connect it to the MAP sensor. In MT fill in the load column with equally spaced values from 0 to 255 and see which load band is active. Let's say the active band is 200. Make that the top load band. Make the bottom load band a little lower than idle vacuum. Fill in the rest of the load column per you liking. Hope this makes sense.

Have you data logged you car when the miss happens? Is the tach signal stable when the miss happens? Are you triggering off the coil directly?

Not so much making modifications, but just assuming that this is the was it was designed from the start. My point is that the circuit can be designed in a way to maximize dynamic range which will result in full utilization of the 8 bits of resolution. I haven't messed with MSII yet, but does it do the voltage to pressure translation for MAP sensors above 250kPA automatically?