z-ya

I'm fairly sure that you need coil overs to clear the tire on the inside.

My P1 Racing (Buddy Club) 15x8 +15 offset wheels:

It sounds like the FET driver (IXDI404PI-ND) in the MS is damaged. I've had this happen before. Swap in a new one.

How thick is the plate that bolts to the seat? You want to be sure that it is thick enough to prevent the adjustment bar from coming through the seat in a rear collision (ouch!). Not sure how thick it should actually be. How thick is the plate on other race cars?

Jon, Your progress looks great. When you get it all done, I want to see some seriously quick time trial / autocross times . I hope you've been driving something else during the build to continue to improve your driving skills.

Yes it does. Each ignition output from the MS can easily drive two LS1 coil inputs as per my coil charge time post (which should be stickafied). It is still wasted spark, but each cylinder get the same spark energy (unlike EDIS).

The coil drivers are in the EDIS module, not in the coil pack. Yes, a circuit could be designed to allow the EDIS module to provide a 5V square wave to the LS1 coils. Is it worth it, probably not. If you have your heart set on the LS1 coils, trigger the MS directly off the VR sensor and 36-1 wheel (eliminate the EDIS module). Then drive the LS1 coils with the MS ignition outputs.

No you don't. This is the most painfully loud L6 powered car I have ever heard. Even if you are not standing behind it. I've done lapping with it on the track, and when I was behind it I thought there was something wrong with my car (vibration). It was the BSR car in front of me.

Ken, Thanks for the offer. A local friend that has made a number of Cobra bodies in the past, is giving us all of his materials, and is going to show us how to make molds. The caretaker of the Bob Sharp collection (remember Charlie?), is going to let us use his shop. This way the original parts never leave his possession. I'd hate to ship them and have them get damaged or lost. For my next project I might use the rear spoiler.

Nice work Rick!

Vinh, I don't think we met, but I did your beautiful Daytona replica. Nice work.

Dan, you have to post some pics of your amazing tube chassis work (if you haven't already) on HybridZ. Yes, I trailered my BREish looking 240Z race car to the convention from NH.

Yea, I know it would be difficult to reverse engineer, as I've done similar things before. I know that the older wolf units had all of the part numbers sanded off the ICs so you couldn't steal the design. They may not be so receptive to giving away this protocol.

Hey, I judged your car for the ultimate Z challenge. I love your tube front end. Do you photos posted anywhere? Thanks,

we need a LOT more information to help you. Are we talking about a tachometer, or the tach (trigger) input to the MS? Is it a stock tachometer, or aftermarket? Please give us more information.

These people are making a conversion kit. They supposedly have a kit in works for the Hitachi SUs. You might want to check with them. http://www.sidedrafttbi.com/index.htm

If you want to learn more about RS-232 signaling standard, you can start hear: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RS-232 If you are looking for a definition of the protocol that runs over the RS-232 interface on the V500, I don't think that AEM will release this proprietary information. If you have a lot of extra time on your hand, you can figure it out with a scope or RS-232 protocol analyzer.

PM me an I'll send you my address.

The Rota website doesn't show that size/offset. Do you have another website that shows the additional sizes? http://www.rotawheels.com/rb.php Thanks,

John, I had a chance to check the ride height on the car. 225-45ZR15 Front: 5.5" Rear: 5.75" I checked with John Jeffery who had the alignment done, and the toe settings are as you suggested (thought we had set them to zero front and back). Is the ride height too low? With the 225-50ZR15 tires add about 0.8 inches to the height. The plan is to add adjustable control arms and TC rods in the future. Thanks

The Wilwood T pads are also street friendly. Not a lot of bite, but quiet, and almost no dust.

A BR8ES is pretty cold for the street. You might want to go with BR7ES. A 32 thousands gap is fine. I'll let you know what I find out about the MS.

Joe, Glad to hear you made it back from the convention OK. I'd say fouled plugs. What plug, and what gap are you running? I still haven't figured out the race car problem. It did fry one of the components in the Megasquirt which I replaced, but still no go. Thought I had it figure out last night. Something is messing up the trigger signal now.

What year is the tach in your 240Z from? 70-72 are current sensing. 73' and later models are voltage sensing. If on the back of the tach there is a loop of wire going through a plastic fixture held on by one screw, then it is a current sensing tach.

This is not entirely true. The PWM current limit % is actually the inverse of the current limit. It really should be called "PWM Current", with the limit being removed. At 100%, the current is not limited, and this is the correct setting for low Z injectors with series resistors installed. At 30%, the current is being limited 70% by the PWM circuit (or 30% of the current is being allowed, depending on how you like to look at it). None of the PWM settings have anything to do with injector duty cycle. This is entirely controlled by the required fuel variable, your VE table, and engine load/RPM. datman, your settings are fine. The PWM circuit only allows 30% of the current to flow through your injectors. The PWM circuit protects both the drivers and the injectors.