Derek

Got some pics from the powder coater. It looks like they did a great job. I used http://www.powder-coated.com in Orlando. I'll post more when I get it back but I'm really happy with the look. I want this in my car right now:)

I'm going to try this again. Hi everyone. Over the years I’ve gotten quite a few requests for kick panel speaker pods for the 280Z. What was holding me back was uninterrupted access to a 280 for measuring and fitting. I finally found one that was close enough and cheap enough for me to buy. One thing that is very apparent is there isn’t a lot of room to work with. Especially on the drivers side. At this point I’ve completed a working prototype for the drivers side and wanted to get input from interested buyers as to the layout on the passengers side. The bad news is there really isn’t any room for a high end 5 1/4” speaker. I designed it around these Pyle PLS502 slim speakers. I also believe the retro sound R525N will fit as well. There is 1.9” available right now for top mount clearance. Most of the higher end speakers require 2 3/16” and that’s not going to work. I found a few models that had a 1 7/8” top mount clearance. The tricky part is how far the grill sticks out beyond the speaker. None of the manufacturers listed grill height. Here is a few shots of the drivers side. Keep in mind this is a rough prototype and the cuts are crude. I have the speaker as far up and as far back as I can get it. There is reasonable room to get your foot over to the dead pedal. It may take a bit of retraining but it’s doable. Clutch pedal just clears grill Dead pedal is accessible. Remember the cuts are really rough on the prototype. Before I start the passengers side I wanted some input as to whether to angle the speaker to improve acoustics or keep it flat to match the drivers side. And how to handle fuse box access. The pricing should be around $100.00 - 125.00 for the pair. The CNC router work is much more complicated than my regular panels requiring multiple setups. So if you think you may be in the market for a set and want to have some input either post here or PM me Thanks Derek

I don't know what's up but I can't seem to get my content to post. Not sure why I keep getting a database error.

Actually it's amazing how restrictions on racing will seed innovation. I still want something like the freevalve rig. That would be so slick to build around.

Wahoooo! I may have to eventually get this in my car soon!

Finishing up the last little bits I need. Made the filter housings today. They use the same wire mesh and oiled foam filters that I use on my other manifold. I've been very happy with the filtration from the foam and saw no reason to do anything different. The housing probably isn't the best choice for power as it will disturb the air flow around the bell. Meh who cares. I like the look. They still need finishing so the tooling marks from a well used CNC mill are visible. I have a little boss on either side that will hold a set screw to hold them in place. this started out as a 4"X8"X.75" piece of 6061. Word from Crane is I'll have my cams by the end of next week. Did an oil flow test and I'm getting excellent results up through the towers to the cam journals. The upper chain tensioner is getting plenty of flow as well. I won't know beyond that until I get the cams installed. Closer every day!

Is it time to start on a custom block:) Mazworxs can machine the casting. Man I wish I had a lot of money.

That's what TonyD and Xnke are advocating. V2 is going on a friends car and he's gravitating towards a high revver. I think it would be worth it for the sound alone:)

I personally would rather put my money in the bottom end. 3.0 stroker that can pull some RPMs would probably be a pretty nice mix. Now if I had a butt ton of money to spend I'd love to have it all. Right now I'd settle for cams and a header...

Actually I saw that Dorman makes them for different models so there my be something out there that will work. Anyone lurking with access to variable hubs and a caliper

Out of everything, the variable sprocket is what would be the deal breaker. Unless the K20 could be adapted. That's a pretty precise piece I'm sure.

I will say from a manufacturing stand point adding VCL or VCT is going to cost plenty. Right off the bat double the price of the cams and double the price of machining. Then there will need to be a custom variable timing gear hub made and custom cam towers as well since the stock ones won't work. Vtec looks less less attractive when the head is now going cost you and additional $8000.00. Edit: Had my VTLCLTC all jumbled:)

I've come to the conclusion that anyone that want's to make power with a NA motor should plan on custom pistons. They really will be the variable that makes everything work together. The Turbo guys will have an easier time for sure. Bolt it on and blow. Especially people who are already at the flow limit with their L head. The V2 version won't have a combustion chamber cast in like the prototype. There will be plenty of meat to machine whatever style you want. I want to have a A2 combustion chamber in my library so that people who wan't a "stock" chamber can get it. It will also make communicating with piston companies easier. I believe the A3 chamber is asymmetrical to accommodate the economy version of the vtec that it uses. One of the intake valves are "lazy" and only opens a slight amount during normal operation and then opens fully at higher RPMs. This is for milage reasons and not performance. At least that's what I deducted from my research.

I had the Spahl system for a while and it gave up the ghost. I went to replace it and ran into the same issue with the NLA thing. I opted for this Pyle unit http://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/PWD701/4-Button-Car-Remote-Door-Lock-Vehicle-Security-System It worked for me as I already had the door lock solenoids installed. The black dragon kit looks pretty nice.

Not sure if there are any K20 lurkers following this thread but I'm trying to get my hands on a A2 head. The heads I have are A3 and the combustion chamber is different. My preference would be a cheap junker that they weren't going to use. As long as one chamber is good. After that would be a loaner as I have no use for it after I scan the combustion chamber. I would pay shipping both ways Just throwing out a few feelers. PM me or email at "kick at red240 dot com" Thanks Derek

Too late. I'm already too attached to my artisanal hand crafted knurled cap:) Thanks for the thought though. But since you're feeling generous PM me your parts inventory and I'll pick a few things out:)

I'm sure you noticed how fast I said yes when you offered to do it for the price of materials:) I'm no dummy. If you hadn't offered I would have stuck with plan A which was manipulating a set of stock headers to fit. I knew money was going to start getting tight at the end and I was right.

That Jeep sensor that Madkaw is playing with looks promising. Cheap too.

Looking good Xnke. Who knows, you may finish before Crane:) Thanks Derek

Thanks for the visuals. I'll double check them tomorrow but I'm sure we have plenty of clearance.

Well as long as Rossman's measurements are correct it will fit. Do you like how I set him up for the blame if it doesn't fit. That's the mark of a true businessman:) Actually there is plenty of room if you don't run a traditional cap and wires. If you do run a cap and wires it may get a bit tight but it will work.

I almost posted this earlier. No really:) But I decided to machine an oil cap instead. It seems to me the events relating to the piston are the most critical. And a crank fire system will give you that. Timing chains stretch and distributer gears have lash and wear. On my CNC conversions I use all kinds of optical encoders and slotted optical sensors. By the looks of the wheel that DIY auto tune sells that is what the ZXT dizzy uses. An slotted optical sensor. I also use proximity switches for positioning verification on my tool changer. The slotted sensors and a slotted wheel are far more accurate than the proximity sensors. So My gut feeling is a slotted sensor with a slotted wheel crank driven will give you the most accuracy. Don't forget there is nothing stopping you from stacking multiple wheels and using dual sensors to accomplish what ever counting you need. Put it in a sealed housing and drive it off of the crank bolt and away you go. For now I'll be sticking with my EDIS:)

The Cam towers are rotated 180 degrees so the number 5 (rear) tower is in the front and the sensor plate is machined off to clear the timing chain. But you could use the Honda sensors I suppose. But that's not my department:)

In two posts I learned more about injection and ignition timing than I ever knew. Thanks. I don't need any of that for this build. I think if I was going to do it for a customer i would cut a U shaped chunk out of the back of the valve cover. I would mount a sub plate to the back of the head that matches the U shaped cutout and mount my sensors there. Especially if it's an encoder or shaft driven sensor. Trying to keep a shaft driven item properly aligned on something like a valve cover that is removed frequently is problematic. Better to have it on a fixed plate. As long as the back of the cams are drilled and tapped there really isn't anything other than clearance between the valve cover and firewall stopping someone from implementing any of these things. The stock Honda K20 has 2 sensors in the rear reading 2 wheels bolted to the cams. They are part of the end cam tower and the valve cover seals against it. I have people interested in this head that want the ultimate high HP L6 build. And I have others that want one because it looks so freeking cool. Best not to loose sight of that.

Actually I'm running EDIS but I get your point. I'm all ears:) That's whats causing me to hedge. When I made the EDIS adapter kits, at the time it was the dominant choice. I don't see that for the cam fire. Optical requires clean and sealed. That means it must reside outside the valve cover. Since it has to reside outside the valve cover there is really nothing for me to add as there is plenty of wall thickness to accomplish most any kind of mounting. And if not then an adapter plate could be added. Even if there was an internal solution there really isn't a lot of room inside to do it. Personally I don't see not having a cam driven solution out of the box as being a problem. Having a way to attach to the cam is the biggest issue. After that it's a mater of some fabrication. It's a problem that will solve itself when the first person that wants it makes it happen. People spend a lot more on an OSG and they run a dizzy. It looks a lot closer than it is. Thanks I'm really happy. I'm still waiting on the shoe to drop and I have ugh oh moment. Fortunately Tony has caught a few. Some a little later than I would have preferred