Derek
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Posts posted by Derek
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5.25" to the point where the wires come out of the connector.
I can sell you a like-new one, cheap, I just pulled out of my RX7. Has wiring, mini-filter and a nice heavy-duty insulator instead of the flimsy foam.
Thanks for the dimensions.
PM sent.
Derek
OOPS just reread the post. I think your talking about an in line pump. I'm looking for dimensions on an in tank.
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I'm thinking about making a surge tank with an in tank pump something like this
http://www.geocities.com/hrayhouston/antisurgetank.html
I'm going to fab it out of aluminum. I need to know the overall height with the electric plug on to see if it's feasible to make it small enough to fit between the tank and the mustache bar.
Thanks
Derek
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Wow Pete that really sucks. The fire really adds insult to injury.
Derek
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Hi Ed
I used these Hella fuse boxes.
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=767
I used a 8 position inside the car that replaced my melted factory box then placed 4 and 6 position boxes in various locations on the car. As an example I have a 4 position box up front that fuses my headlights, auxiliary fan and A/C clutch.
Derek
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Super nice work Derek!
My stick built bracket looks like a PoS compared to yours.
Thanks Pete
Well if I didn't have the CNC Knee mill My bracket would look exactly like yours being as I was a fabricator before I was a pattern maker.
You kept the file for all this right? Cause I might have to bug ya for one of these shortly.No problem Jeff. The bracket is pretty straight forward. The wheel adapter was a real PIA though. I started with a 2" thick square and had to hog it out on the mill before I moved it to the lathe for the turning ops.
WOW, great mount.Nice machine too, got myself a Gaggia, looking to upgrade to a Isomac Heat Exchange machine one day. I'll stop taking your thread off topic now.
The Gaggia is no slouch for sure. The best thing I did was putting the PID controller for the temp. That makes it a Hybrid so it should be ok for this forum!
Derek
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That was a bit of work!
Well the finish isn't perfect as I didn't want to spend the time with finish passes but it works like a champ or a clamp as the case may be!
The bracket is rock solid. it's a little tight getting to the adjuster screw but all and all I'm pleased with the results.
Now all I have to do is make the hold down washers for the 36-1 and the bracket for the EDIS module and I'll be ready for the megasquirt.
derek
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Just a quick question. Do you sleep?
Looking good Derek, keep up the caffeine intake and good work.
I'd get nothing done without this bad boy!
Derek
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Here's the mock up for the sensor bracket. I'm using corian solid surface material in case your wondering. The final product will be machined from 6061 aluminum.
The large hole is the timing cover bolt next to the oil pump and the small adjustment hole is a boss on the timing cover. I have a ton of adjustment but that will be reduced to almost nothing on the final product.
This should make for a nice rigid mount
Now it's time to start whittling some aluminum!
Derek
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The VR bracket's much easier to visualize once you figure out where you want to mount it. Setup looks great. Where are you going to mount the EDIS module?
You should have not drilled the two "alignment" holes that will tap into the two pulley tap holes until you mounted the sensor. This way you can mount your sensor, rotate the aluminum hub and tooth wheel to the right spot and then drill the holes to the exact clocked position you need. This would allow you a little more flexibility in the VR bracket design/mounting.
Thanks Dave.
I'm planning on mounting the module directly across from the coil tucked up under the fender and just in front of the battery.
The wheel is held in place by the clamping force of the 4 screws and washers. So this allows it to be rotated into position and then locked down.
Derek
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For those of you following this saga I started a new thread on the EDIS portion of our show here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=947804#post947804
Thanks
Derek
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I decided to get started on my EDIS install. My plan is to get the ignition portion up and running with the megasquirt. Then when I finish my manifold (soon I promise) I won't have to worry about the ignition side of things.
I decided to run the ford coil as I plan on running custom Magnecore plug wires and they have the proper boots for the coil.
Here is a shot of the coil bracket. I have a pretty good sized air gap between the block and the coil. The wires were $97.00 with shipping by the way.
Now for the fun part. The trigger wheel adapter. I'm basically using variation of Sidwels mount. The adapter uses the crank bolt to center it and the 2 1/4-20 puller bolts to keep it indexed. The escort wheel is held in place with 4 screws and washers. This way the ring is adjustable. I have .010" crush on the ring so that should hold it tight enough.
Boring out the center.
Turning the back side
The adapter is dished to allow for the boss on the balancer but it still sits against the boss. There is a slight air gap around the rest of the adapter.
Here's the assembled adapter.
The washers are just for the mock up. I'll use something larger in application.
Well that's it for now. next up is the sensor mount. That should be fun!
Derek
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X64v,
Derek, you got me all pumped about trying the smoke machine test! I have to go find a smoke machine.
Now's the time. The party stores will have them for Halloween.
So Derek, am I to understand that you hook the vacuum (which is outside the car) to the hole in the cardboard in the window that you cut out, and attempt to pull smoke through the cabin from the suspect area? Having someone blow it near the rear of the car and create a vacuum inside the cabin to pull through anything that can get through?When you say smoke machine - do you mean like a fog machine that they use at concerts and nightclubs? Hope so - my band has one of those that I can borrow....
That's the process exactly. That commercial smoke machine will do a fine job. The cheap one i bought only runs for 30 second bursts. It turned out to be plenty of on time though.
I bet you could also put the smoke machine inside the car and turn on the fresh air blower to see where the smoke leaves the cabin just as well. Eliminating the vacuum cleaner and cardboard. Or try both ways to get every nook and cranny sealed up.I'm not too sure how well that would work. The problem is a low pressure area in the cargo space that sucks in the exhaust. Pressure in the cabin would work in reverse of what's actually happening.
I lived with this problem in one form or another since 1980 when I bought the car. This is the first time I've had no exhaust fumes in the cabin.
Derek
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If you drive around with the windows down now, are the fumes all gone? Even in deceleration?
Great Idea! Smoke Machine lol.
Yep windows down, windows up, one down one up no fumes!
The smoke trick really helps you find hidden leaks.
Derek
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Here's a post I made on how I fixed my exhaust leaks.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138089
Derek
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Hi
I'm starting to figure out how I want to mount my sensor for the edis. I noticed that in all of the pictures I could find on HybridZ show the sensors mounted traditionally which points the wires towards the fan blade. I'd really like to mount mine in the opposite direction with the plug angling in towards the motor. This would mean the edis trigger wheel would in effect be spinning in the oppisite direction across the sensor.Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Derek
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Wow Jeff you had quite the adventure! Glad it all worked out for you.
Derek
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contact this ebay seller here... he has designed and manufactured/distributed a number of filters.
it may pay to talk with him and discuss what would work best and whether or not he knows what designing a filter for max air-flow is all about.
Interesting idea. He's forming the screens then poring a silicone boot around them.
I'm still leaning towards using the wire cloth and foam at this point. The main thing I'm rethinking is the method of attachment. Maybe I can incorporate this guy's rubber boot method with my wire cloth and foam.
I have all the equipment to do silicone molding so that wouldn't be a problem.
Thanks for the link and idea.
Derek
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a Request regarding the universal design... Add 2 more ports, please? (8 cylinder)...
So let it be written, so let it be done!
I'll make the pad longer and drill it accordingly.
Derek
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I just ran across something in a VW Magazine (probably from July, DB&HVW's) in their 'New Items' section there was a set of air cleaners like you proposed to make. There was something in there about new low-restriction filters for 48IDA's or 51.5 IDA's. It's back at the hotel...which doesn't have internet, and where I won't be for at least another7 hours...
They used what looked like a grey felt-looking compound in the screen sandwich. They also showed some smaller individual-stack K&N style filters that had air-trumpet clamps on them.
Let me know on that if you don't mind.
I found filter foam from UNI Filter.
They offer sheet foam that's .375" thick and 60 PPI density. They also offer 30 PPI as well. I think the idea is on dirt bike is to make a sandwich of the two. I'm going to call UNI and see if they have any suggestions on this.
I calculated the area of the filters and I'm going to be hard pressed just to get 60 square inches of surface.
As the filters start to plug will that change the AFR and will Megasguirt see it? Just thinking out loud here but it would be nice if there was a way to have Meggasquirt send an error when the condition reached a certain threshold. Something along the lines of "hey butwipe clean your filters!!!"
I'm planning on running a carputer so I'll have the ability to monitor the readings anyway.
If I try really hard I can complicate this enough to where I'll never get it done!!!!
Derek
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Hi Phar
Yea some gussets on the tabs would probably be a good idea. Thanks. The IAC is from a 1992 Jeep 4.0.
Actually, making those blocks would pay dividends...that looks a lot like the blocks that came out in the early-mid 80's in Japan when the first analog Fuel-Control Computers were being introduced. The ITBs were all set to run closed throttle, and idle synch and idle speed was all done using a separate manifold block with tubes to the manifold.
Didn't anybody ever wonder why the runners on some JDM manifolds have those 1/8 npt plugs in them? Now you know!
Hi Tony
I tried to design this as a universal style block so it could be adapted to other applications that wanted a stand alone IAC/Vacuum log.
Derek
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What's interesting to me is they offer the 3D cad files for download and seem to encourage people to make a test model.
http://www.tcengine.com/Parts.html
You don't see that happen too much!
Derek
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Why do you need an idle screw if you are using an IAC unit? Wont you set the rough idle with the butterflies, and then let the IAC do it thing.
Sensei Tony D (among others) Recommends using a separate Idle bleed screw as opposed to cracking the throttle plates or using the IAC. Apparently on ITBs you want the butterflies completely closed at idle. I like it because I can easily increase the idle without jumping into megasquirt.
Derek
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Well I decided to start designing the vacuum log. I wanted to incorporate the IAC and the main idle screw. Then I figured why not mount the balance needle valves on there as well. The individual lines will run over to each boss on the bottom of the throttle body. The lines will be hidden under the web of the manifold. This would make setting them a whole lot easier. It also looks pretty cool! The foot print is about 4.5 x 4.5" and fits right where the choke cables come out of the fire wall. The vacuum inlet is a direct shot over to the outlet on the manifold. It uses a Jeep 4.0 IAC
Here's a perspective shot:
Here is a view looking straight on at the firewall.
Here's a cutaway shot. You can see the shelf under the needle valves that will allow filtered air into the valves. As the IAC raises it will dump filtered air into the vacuum chamber.
The fresh air inlet and shelf area will be done with a core. The vacuum passages will be done as a machine op.
Am I missing anything?
Derek
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I used a tea strainer on the inlet to my turbocharger for the longest time.
Really, it's kind of restrictive, and there are better alternatives. The larger you can make your filter area the better it will filter. The velocity across the single-stack style filters is sky high. They only catch 'the shark sh*t' as my old tech school instructor used to say...
"Strainer" more than "Filter" if you follow that meaning.
Hi Tony
Any opinion on how thick the foam should be? I made provisions for a screen at the bottom of the bell and this would give me a filter thickness of 1.25". in hindsight this seems to be a bit thick and may be too restrictive.
Thanks
Derek
Starting my EDIS install
in MegaSquirt
Posted
Went smoother than silk.
Then only thing I had to mess with was switching the sensor wires around.
I got it running in limp mode first then went with megasquirt. I even nailed the initial timing on the 36-1 ring!
The Magnecore wires are really nice. They only took about a week to get here. I was skeptical at first about using the Ford coil but I kind of like the way they snap on.
Here's a shot of the wires. I'm planning on getting some looms. Taylor makes a nice 6 cylinder set that will work really well.
I know my engines really ratty. After I get my manifold done and working I'll be ripping the top end off as I have a oil leak between the head and the timing cover. It will be getting a major detailing then.
And here's the obligatory laptop on roof shot
A big thanks to all the pioneers on HybridZ that went before me. All the info made this a real piece of cake.
Now for the road test and the dreaded noise issues. I hope they're minor!
Derek