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Pop N Wood

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Posts posted by Pop N Wood

    What is the benefit of an electric coolant pump?

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    I beg to differ, the load is not necessarily the same. Here's a link that talks about switching to an electric water pump on an LT1.

     

    http://www.wku.edu/~nathan.plemons/htmls/waterpump.html

     

    Although the write up is specific to the LT1, some of the same principles apply to any engine. There are differences in mechanical and electrical efficiencies and the slightly higher load on the alternator is generally going to be more efficient than the load of turning a mechanical water pump. In addition the electric water pump is going to turn at a nearly constant speed whereas a mechanical pump speed will vary with engine RPM.

     

    P.S. - I upgraded to an electric water pump on my engine.

     

    People have raised some good points here that I didn't think of. If the mechanical WP is trying to move more water than it needs to, then yes, it will needlessly be consuming power. The cavitation issue is definitely real, and something I hadn't thought of.

     

    However the article above contains some inaccuracies, such as "the alternator is running anyway". More current draw = more load.

     

    One last thing to consider is the cooling load undoubtably varies with engine load. Thus having the WP flow rate vary with RPM may not be a bad thing. If the electric pump is constant speed, then the coolant flow will be the same regardles of RPM. This means the flow rate has to be set for the worst case heat load, which means the electric pump could very well be be drawing excess power when the heat load is low.

     

    Probably putting too much thought into this. Personally I would rather spend the $$ on better heads.

    Oil choice for break in?

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    I copied this off of an LS1TECH post. It is SDPC reccomendation for their crate motors

     

    Information and Break-In Recommendations for

    Your SDPC Engine or Short Block

     

    Thank you for choosing Scoggin-Dickey as your engine supplier! Scoggin-Dickey Parts Center opened its doors in 1929 and since that time we have been one of the leading suppliers of complete engines, short blocks, and engine components. It is our goal to provide you with the latest in engine technology and the highest standard of performance. Whether you have purchased a new OEM factory built crate engine or a custom built SDPC engine or short block, it is imperative that you take the time to read the following instructions in regards to engine oil, PCV systems, fuel systems, and engine break-in.

     

    Today’s Oil and What You Need to Know

    Motor oil has had several significant changes in the last ten years and more importantly in 2004 a decision was made to reduce the sulfur and the zinc-phosphorus compounds (ZDDP). The ZDDP is used as the primary anti-wear agent for internal engine components. Beginning with the 2004 model of new vehicles, the Federal Government has asked auto manufacturers to warranty catalytic converters for 120,000-miles.

    Most catalytic convertors eventually fail from harmful gases emitted thru the exhaust, and two of these are the phosphorous and sulfur which were a prevalent make-up of our older motor oils. All engines will consume some oil thru the exhaust! While in most cases this is only a very small amount, the automakers decided it was time to change the chemistry of motor oil rather than adding to the cost of catalytic converters.

    This change in engine oil has had a significant impact on the performance engine world, specifically engines with forged pistons and/or flat tappet camshafts. The lack of the zinc-phosphorus compounds has been a primary cause of premature failure in flat tappet camshafts and lifters. Current oils for gasoline engines have the ZDDP compounds reduced by 20% or more. We have seen an overwhelming increase in piston scuff and premature ring wear. We have torn down performance engines with less than 1500-miles and seen piston scuff and ring wear that looked as if the engine had 100,000-miles! All caused from super low viscosity oils with poor anti-wear characteristics and a lack of following proper break-in procedures.

    If you have purchased a custom built short block with forged pistons and a performance ring package, then we have taken every precaution to coat the cylinder walls, pistons, and rings with an anti-wear agent. However, it is imperative that you choose engine oil with a significant amount of ZDDP and we require the addition of GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) for a minimum of the first 90-minutes. For forged pistons with moly rings or HD steel rings and engines with flat tappet camshafts we suggest an engine oil with a minimum ZDDP content of the following;

    Approximate Percentage by Weight

    Zinc – 0.120

    Phosphorus – 0.115

     

     

     

    Suggested Oils;

    Shell Rotella-T 15W40 API Specification CI-4 Plus

    Valvoline NSL Racing Oil 10W30 (Conventional Motor Oil, excellent for break-in!)

    Pennzoil 25W50 Racing Motor Oil

     

    PCV Systems

    The LS-Series engines are prone to excessive crank case pressure build-up resulting in oil blow-by, oil consumption, and oil wetting of the intake manifold. One of the first changes from GM to help resolve this issue was the bay-to-bay “windows†placed in the main webs of the blocks. Any increase in cubic inches places more demand on the PCV system, regardless of the engine type. GM has made several changes to the PCV systems over the years and many consumers have a mismatch of parts and components. It is imperative that you inspect your PCV system and make certain that it functions properly. If you are using a factory PCV system it is required that you use a new “fixed orifice†PCV valve for routing your pressure relief hose from the valve cover. This valve is included with all custom SDPC LS-Series short blocks and engines. The GM part number for this item is #12572717.

     

    Fuel System and Tuning

    It is imperative that you make every effort to have your fuel system in proper working order prior to engine start-up. Inspection of the supply lines, return lines, filters, regulators, and proper fuel pressure are the responsibility of the car owner and/or installer. It is extremely critical that you have a PCM calibrated for the correct pressure and injectors before starting the vehicle. Any over rich condition existing for an extended period of time during the initial start-up will cause piston scuffing, ring wear, and severely hinder the ability for the rings to seat properly and may ruin the complete engine! It is the responsibility of the owner and/or installer to calibrate the PCM or the carburetor to prevent internal engine damage.

     

    Engine Break-In

    Use the correct engine oil with the addition of GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS)!! We recommend two 45-minute break-in periods allowing ample time between each for a complete cool down of the engine. Each period should consist of varied RPM and load with a limit on the RPM of 4500. Avoid extended duration of constant RPM! After the 90-minute period you should drain the oil and inspect the filter. Replace with a new filter and use one of the recommended oils from the list above or one that you have verified that has the proper amount of ZDDP. If you have purchased an engine with forged pistons it is imperative that you always use oil with sufficient ZDDP for the entire life of the engine! We do not recommend a change to Synthetic oil until a minimum of 5000-miles to insure proper ring seating.

    SDPC does not warranty any application with the use of power adders i.e. – turbochargers, superchargers, nitrous. If it is determined that premature ring wear, ring sealing, or piston scuffing, and/or engine failure is the result of improper tuning, incorrect oil, improper installation, and/or the use of power adders, then all repairs, parts, materials, shipping expenses, and labor will be the sole responsibility of the purchaser.

    Whoa Baby

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    Finished the alternator mount. Need to pretty up the welds and paint, but mount looks solid, good clearance all around and a 60" belt fit perfectly. Quite a pick and pull special, a 90 Celica alternator with a 6 rib pulley off an 80 something Supra. The Corvette accessories and low/back engine placement meant an F body mount just wasn't going to work.

     

    You can see the steel mount I had to make to get the Corvette mounts to clear the JTR headers on the passengers side. S&P bisquit mounts makes for a solid mount.

     

    Alt_final_mount.jpg

    L6 setback and trans mount?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Originally Posted by Pop N Wood

    FWIW my LS swap did not require removing the stock trans ears

     

    Really? Interesting. I've just seen that so many times I assumed it would be necessary. Do you think that's because the John's cars mounts positions the engine a bit more forward than the JTR? I assume there is a difference in the early ears vs the later ones, and I have the early ears, so do you know if one needs removing and the other doesn't?

     

    Mine is a 12/70 so I don't think the ears get much earlier.

     

    I had to build my own mounts. Pretty sure the reason I didn't need to remove the ears is because I used a TKO instead of a T56. There is actual a LOT of room around the trans.

    Poetic Justice

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    You guys have too much faith in the "authorities".

     

    I can tell you first hand that short of undeniable and repeated physical abuse it is difficult to get kids taken away from parents. It is not a simple process. People lie and try to cover their tracks.

     

    Kids do stupid things. I wouldn't be here today if I had crossed paths with some of you guys.

    L6 setback and trans mount?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I am pretty sure JohnC moved his engine down as well as back.

     

    If it were me, I would cut the Datsun MM towers off the stock crossmember and just fab up some new towers that extend back and don't go up as high. I would also leave the stock trans ears alone (they shouldn't get in the way) and add some new ones however far back I was moving the L6. You are then spending a few hundred dollars for a new driveshaft and, depending on where your stock shifter came out originally, reworking the shifter hole and possibly lever.

     

    FWIW my LS swap did not require removing the stock trans ears.

     

    Another option is to find a drive shaft from a 70 240 that had the diff in the forward mounted positions. Those shafts are 35 mm shorter than the later shafts. This would give you and inch and a half rear movement without the expense of the driveshaft. With such a small set back you would unquestionably be able to use some type of set back plates on the motor mounts. You would then just need to redo the trans xmember, but might be able to get away with something that still uses the stock ears.

     

    As for a second crossmember, Ron is right in that the frame rails behind the stock crossmember are awfully thin. But I found it a simple matter to sheath the rails with a piece of 18 guage, then weld some 3/8 inch pipe through the rails to keep the mounting bolts from collapsing the rails.

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