Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Saw This V8 Z car on EBAY - WOW Take a Look
Spread the news, perhaps someone here wants to bid. 6Hrs to go!
Danno74Z
Man. $18700. Good price for a V8Z
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You put a 100 amp fuse on a circuit going through your ignition switch?
What on earth for? The switch will go up in flames before the fuse ever blows.
And why would anyone put a fuse in the main cable going to the starter?
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These things in a die grinder work great at getting down to clean metal
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ap50c.html
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Here's an example:
Weeks before an event a lot of EVO guys and their entourage were talking trash on a message board about how uber-fast their cars were. I started getting involved and just acted in awe of how fast the cars might be and how lucky I was just to be on the same track with my Rusty Old Datsun. Things went back and forth and I ended up betting Robbie, with his Road Race Engineering prepared EVO, that I would beat him by 1 second at each track on the event schedule. Just a friendly bet of $20. This beat was the teaser.
After this was posted on the various message boards a lot of the entourage wanted in on it, figuring an old Datsun couldn't possibly beat their all conquering EVO. I took about 10 bets and even got odds from some of the guys.
At the first track on the event schedule I beat the EVO by 5 seconds. The smallest margin was 3 seconds and one track the EVO didn't even run because his engine blew. I collected from Robbie and promptly gave him his $20 back (he worked his butt off getting a new engine in his car overnight to make the last event). I was able to collect from six of the ten other bets (four welched and said it was unfair). That's how you work know-it-alls.
At which point they took you out and broke your thumbs.
I loved that movie.
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I had a super slow coolant leak on my Z that took years to track down. I had no visible trail of coolant, just needed to top off periodically. Finally I put a vial of green food coloring in the radiator and wrapped white paper towels all around the head gasket. When the paper towels at the back of the head turned green, I knew I had a head gasket that was letting vapor/steam out that just evaporated.
At any rate a tube of stop leak fixed the problem.
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Man I would try and talk him down under a grand. The LT1 T56's are actually more desireable than the LS T56's because the input shafts allow them to be bolted up to a first gen SBC.
BUT used T56's all too often need rebuilding. That can easily run $1500 all by itself. If the motor is that far gone, the trans can't be far behind.
This F body stuff isn't getting any easier to find, is it?
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Inspiration.
Makes me want to work harder to get the Z running.
Glad your brother is back on track.
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Has anyone with a V8 swap had to switch out the center console from a 70-71 240 for the later 72-73 console? The JTR manual has pics and says the later console has a larger shifter hole moved about 1 1/2 inches farther forward.
I was just wondering what is involved with this swap cause from the JTR pics it looks like the console rear mounting bolts are in the wrong place.
Also as per this site the early ash trays sell for $150 to $225. Mine is uncracked and in pretty good shape. Has anyone ever sold one for that much?
My shifter is coming out so far forward I am going to have to cut sheet metal to get clearance. Used consoles don't sell for that much, but I am torn between cutting up my 70 unit or trying to get a later 72 unit and modifying it to hold my choke cables. Don't really need an ashtray anymore.
$$ Ching Ching $$
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Actually I was trying to talk you into the adjustables. Reading back though the post it does look otherwise.
If you just look at cost, then kind of hard to justify. But the way I look at it breaking parts gives you a perfect reason to upgrade. You know "Damn, honey. Spit a U joint. Gonna be expensive to buy that Q45 and CV axles to to ensure it doesn't happen again. Damn old cars."
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I have read that you should change the tip anytime it comes in contact with the weld pool. I usually change them whenever it seems like I am having a difficult time getting the settings right. A dirty or worn tip will cause the current to fluctuate making you think you need to adjust the volts or wire speed.
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Absolutely no question, call Ross at Modern Motorsport and get the adjustables. Obviously the stockers are not good enough or they would not have broken. Plus, who knows, you may need the adjustability in case something in the rear end got tweaked.
Absolute no brainer.
Of course then you need to do the same in the front.
No way I would cheap out and get a $20 replacement at a pick and pull.
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I am not being picky, but does anybody notice this thread started in year 2000?
Yeah. LT1 prices have dropped drastically since then.
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I have a Canon ZR50MC miniDV that is a dream to use. It is a few years old so don't know how the picture quality compares to the newer stuff. But it is still working without a hitch. Canon makes a quality product. About my only complaint is the low light sensitity is not the best. But for trips to Disneyland and kids recitals I couldn't ask for more.
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There have been some HybridZ classic posts of what people have done to get struts unstuck. The guy who used two pickup trucks and a length of rope comes to mind.
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Thanks - A used pan and pick-up went for $185US last week on ebay but the price of new parts from GM Direct looks competitive and I think I will go that route. I've found the part numbers for the pan, dipstick and tube but can't find them for the pick-up and windage tray. Does anyone know them?
Yeah, believe it or not. According to my GM installation guide, the part numbers are
12551577 Camaro/Firebird dipstick tube
12551581 Camaro/firebird dipstick
12558762 Camaro/Firebird oil pan
12558253 Camaro/Firebird windage tray
12558251 Camaro/Firebird oil pump pickup
http://www.ls1tech.com has stickies with lists of part numbers also.
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GM direct.
Believe me, F body accesories are very difficult to find in salvage yards for just the reason you stated. I think most of the guys with GTO engines and such get new pans from GM.
Try posting an ad on LS1TECH.com or LS1.com. Maybe somebody has one from a wrecked engine you could get.
And then there is ebay.
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I agree with Jon. Just use the bad dog stuff or do a variation of Pete's design. Either one will be leaps and bound stiffer than the stock stuff.
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I know carfax has no clue about old car VIN numbers. My 1970 comes up with nothing. Their computer records only go back so far, and they don't like numbers that don't follow the current convention. Like HLS30.....
Maybe the car is just too old. Check with you state motor vehicle association.
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You need to make absolutely certain whether it is a 260 or 280. The late 260's are the same as 280's. The early 260's are more like a 240. There were a lot of significant differences between the 240's and 280's (like strut tubes sizes etc.) So you may have trouble back fitting some 280 parts on a 260.
There was a recent thread on the cost of floor board - frame rail replacements. Figure $1500 to $2000 to have a shop do the welding with you doing all the disassembly/reassembly.
$200 for a rust free shell doesn't sound so bad when looked at in that light.
Just make certain the new car is really as rust free as the guy thinks it is.
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Maybe you were clicking it wrong.
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Go to http://www.baqddogparts.com and look.
They have detailed pics of both.
The big thing is stock from the factory 240's only had partial rails that end just behind the seat mounts. Factory 280's have much more better rails that go the full length of the passengers compartment.
The baddog rails are made to take advantage of the structural differences of the two models.
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JTR now has billet aluminum heater hose adapters for 5/8" to 3/4", and a 5/8" heater hose restrictor/splicer.
Also, we now carry an LS1 upper radiator hose tee for the steam vent tube, and the tee also has an air-bleed valve to purge air out of the cooling system.
Well you didn't offer that as of 9 pm last night. At least it wasn't on your web site.
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Thanks for the quick reply. I was trying to order through Jegs and was having zero luck finding one.
The LS1 motor has a 5/8" outlet and 3/4" return. That is what my GM LS1 installation guide says.
As for the Datsun stuff, you are right, it's not in my manual either. I don't know the answer for sure.
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The LS motors have different sized heater hose inlets and outlets (I think 3/4" and 5/8"). the Z heater core uses the smaller size for both inlet and outlet.
Where did you guys get the adapters to mate the hoses, or am I missing something simple?
net etiquette rant
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I have made about a half dozen attempts to buy items out of the classified and have yet to get a single reply. All I can figure is people on the HybridZ classifieds are not very serious about selling their stuff.