Pop N Wood

Maybe you need to go back and read the stickies at the top of the forums. Especially items #2 and #8 at the top of this forum. you know, the one titled "HYBRID Z RULES AND GUIDELINES- Everyone please read!". Phantom is a long standing member who has helped countless people on this site. No call to be talking this kind of smack to him. What he said is absolutely correct. Weight distributions for LS and LT set ups have been posted numerous times. If you make a little effort you can easily find this info by yourself. Be a prick to well respected members and you will find help a little harder to come by.

I remember the world being black and white one. Used it on the neighbor kids. My 9 year old daughter found my Calvin and Hobbes books and became infatuated with them. She carried them to bed for over a month. Some things transcend the generations I like to think the guy is sitting on some tropical island someone, secretly drawing the odd strip or two for his grandkids. Someday he will decide to publish 40 more volumes.

Yeah, he would have had to let you go, Aux. Can't have you upsetting his personal assistant with the 360's.

Is it just me or does that look photoshopped to anyone else?

Thanks! The second page gave me exactly the answer I was looking for check out these other two high mount options I got off LS1tech http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159121&highlight=alternator http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=346338&highlight=vette+alternator+bracket

The iron block would make it the equivalent of an LT1 set up. Even with the iron block you can still have a slight rear wheel bias depending upon how everything is mounted. I would not worry about weight bias with the iron block. It has been done too many times.

You can post here all you want. I have read enough of your posts both here and on LS1tech that you could post pics of the wife's minivan and I wouldn't care. Beautiful car.

Don't get me wrong. None of my problems have been show stoppers. I would probably have the engine mounted by now if the JTR headers had been compatible with the vette style motor mounts. Once my motor mounts and cross member are welded I will know for sure just how well everything lines up. One this is for sure, this engine will sit farther back than most people's. You realize the weight difference between the TKO and T56 is only 15-20 pounds, depending upon what T56 you are talking about and where you get the information. What type of engine are you running? I had to go to Kiesler because I am using an LS2 motor. If you are running a first gen SBC, then my understanding is the GM version of the TKO should bolt up like it is a Muncie. The huge advantage of the T56 with LS motors is you can use John's car kit and just bolt and go. The main reason I went TKO over T56 is new T56's are just too expensive and I am afraid to buy a used one because of all the people who have gotten bad ones. Rebuilds on the T56 is almost as much as a new TKO in the first place. Plus, with the carb'd motor, being able to keep the stock gauges was a big savings. The last point is the better torque rating of the TKO. I am a little concerned about the shifting, but right now I am more worried about how I will get an alternator in. One problem at a time.

Thanks for the replies. I checked S&P and damn are they expensive. Believe it or not, they do not have an alternator only kit for the vette set up. But I think I have a solution figured out. The vette belt runs 3/4 of an inch closer to the block than the F body accessories (and the truck pulleys are an inch or so farther out than that). Looks like the Fbody front bracket has enough meat on it that I can machine 3/4 of an inch off the engine side. This should put the bracket pulleys exactly in line with the crank pulley. Will have to fabricate a new rear bracket and rethread and shorten the mounting bolts. Since I don't have an alternator yet, the only remaining question is whether there will be any clearance issues moving the alternator back 3/4 of an inch. If that doesn't work, a search on LS1tech revealed 2 different ways to mount the alternator above either head. Would be nice to have it up high like that for maintenance, but think I will like the look of the low mounted alternator better. I will try to post pics later.

Anyone have any pics of an alternator and WP only serpentine belt set up using the Corvette style accesories brackets? Just found out my LS2 crate motor uses the Corvette style WP and harmonic balancer and won't work with the Camaro accesory brackets I just got from GM direct. thought about cutting an inch off the F body brackets, but think that will leave it too weak. Any suggestions anyone?

If I didn't know better I would swear this kid is a troll having some fun with us. Why is this thread on this site?

A stciky on posting pics http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98049 Now that you mention it the continental was FWD. It has 16" blades. Well if I get bored maybe I will drop another $20 and add a third picture. Looking closer it looks like Dale had just trimmed off the right most tabs from the shroud. That metal shroud hgeorge1 posted does look nice. Saw a guy on HP TV build one very similar in about 10 minutes with a plasma cutter. I worry a little about the flat shroud though. There was a recent thread where someone had trouble with such a shroud not funneling enough air through his radiator at speed. Let us know out it all works out.

Quick update, ordered by 90-10 brake lines and two dozen fittings from Automec in the UK and they got them here in 6 days. This was in spite of the terrorist hair gel shutdown of flights. Shipping was tough to swallow but service and product are all first rate. I now own enough M10x1 metric fittings to replumb the entire car. Gotta get busy.

Finally got some pics of the Taurus and Lincoln fans. The lincoln fan has blades about an inch and a half bigger in diameter while the sides of the shroud sit on the tank rails of the JTR radiator perfectly. Also got the relays from the Lincoln. My 10 amp battery charger did not like running the fan in high speed! Too wide Taurus fan, easy to pull --edit-- Lincoln fan. thougjht it was the JTR recommended one, but turns out it is the same Taurus fan everyone else is running --edit

What's wrong with camo? Never need to wax it. I preferr the desert camo myself.

Holy Moly. I could see a little dress up play acting with that. Time to attack the Siegfried line and invade the motherland! And hate to say it, but it will take more than a few stupid comments to get a girl built like that fired.

Impact wrench is good. Long ass cheater bar you can STAND on works too. Put two bolts in the pinion flange, wedge a long piece of steel, fence post or pipe between them then stand on it to keep the flange from turning. Use the breaker bar with a 6' piece of pipe as an extention. Put the socket on the nut so the cheater bar is a foot of the ground then stand on it. Something will give, guarenteed.

FWIW I noticed SDPC dropped the price of their carb'd LS2 motor by $700 since I bought mine. http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/120/products/272567/Crate-Engine-LS2-Carbureted-364ci-440hp.htm Maybe GM is starting to move some quantity. The new engine has several advantages, like the better 243 heads, stronger block, better PCV venting and not to mention a 4" bore. The down side is you end up buying almost everything new. There are not ANY of these motor in the pick an pulls, so even things like alternator mounts and belt tensioner must be gotten from ebay or gm direct. Now if I can just finish this kitchen remodel to get time to finish mounting the engine.

Hey lazycyril, thanks for the link

Metric fittings you ask? Click on the Brass fittings Index An American Source Summit's has metric adapters

Do a search on convertible. There is a place in CA that made a Z convertible kit and sold bolt in subframe connectors. Looked like a good product.

Double emphasis of this point. Can't imagine how an MC could be operating at 50% effectiveness for 4 years. Those pigs either work or they don't. Do a search for good street pad, put them on, replace the rotors and bed the pads. Get some stainless steel brake lines while you are at it. See what that does. There was a thread just the other week where someone fixed their brake effectieness with better pads.