
Pop N Wood
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Everything posted by Pop N Wood
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Saw Wolfmother at the Virgin Festival yesterday. Man, they had the crowd moving.
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72 240z wanders left & right randomly
Pop N Wood replied to Miles's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Well, since no one is offering more current info, I know when I replaced mine maybe 15 years ago they were no longer available. I had to buy a used shaft from MSA. Unless someone comes up with more current info on new parts, try http://www.baddogparts.com , http://www.zbarn.com or http://www.zcarparts.com -
My brother lost a front wheel on his Vega. Twice. Both within a couple of months of each other. First on when a wheel bearing seized and sheared the spindle shaft, and second when a ball joint went. Nothing like routine preventive maintenance.
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You need to match the engine tilt to the angle of the rear diff. On my car this put a pretty significant rearward tilt on the engine. I did the JTR mod of drilling out the mustache bar washers to raise the rear of the diff. That helped a good bit, but still no where near level. If you want it that level you wil almost certainly need to build a new front diff mount to lower the front of the diff too. BTW, how does hood clearance look with that carb on the LS1? I set my engine about as low as I can (so low the alternator will not clear the steering shaft) and I figure I will have maybe 3" clearance from the carb flange to the underside of the hood.
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What size fuel line from the tank?
Pop N Wood replied to that240guy's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
OK, it is the pump that can't handle the lines and not the other way around. That makes sense to me. So the short story is pick a pump that can handle your target HP and size the lines accordingly. Don't go too big on the pump. BTW, Ford sends a signal from the engine computer to control the pump speed. And instead of a belt driven pump, why not a mechanical? That will also vary with engine speed. JTR makes a BIG deal about hooking the electric pump up to shut off when the engine dies. Makes sense to me. So has anyone ever soldered in a new pick up tube on a stock 240 tank? -
What size fuel line from the tank?
Pop N Wood replied to that240guy's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Piss. Double piss with what Wheelman said. Was hoping to get a short term short cut to getting on the road. The fill tubes on the 240 tank are suppose to be soldered in. Has anyone unsoldered the fill and return tubes (along with their mounting plate) and rigged up a larger inch pick up? You guys scare me with your 1/2 lines. The Comp 140 pump I am looking at for my carb motor only recommends 3/8 inch feed and return. Every damn splitter I have seen for Holley carbs use 3/8 inch line. Whay would something under 500 HP (which is probably 98% of the guys on here) need 1/2 inch line? And from what I have read the overwhelming majority of guys are using 3/8 line. Hell, a lot of guys aren't even running return lines. -
72 240z wanders left & right randomly
Pop N Wood replied to Miles's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
I second that. My U joint down at the rack was worn out causing just what you said. -
What size fuel line from the tank?
Pop N Wood replied to that240guy's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Here is a pretty good link Grumpy once posted http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp They do a pretty good job of explaining pump ratings. Note that return systems can use a smaller pump than the dead head systems. The caution about using restrictive fittings. They also recommend the same size feed and return. But their reccomended line sizes are about a step larger than anyone else I have seen. They say 1/2 line is needed for anything above 375 HP. I am picking up a Mallory Comp 140 gph fuel pump. I will be using the Mallory recomended 3/8 inch feed and return line with this pump. I will probably never grow to more than 500 NA HP. And as everyone knows, alcohol requires more fuel for the same HP than gas. -
Thanks for correcting my typo. Meant to say front. gvincent, thanks for the pics and the ideas. Love what you did with the front diff crossmember. I was going to splice two together but what you did should work just as well. I have saved all your pics to my hard drive. Also like how sturdy your trans cross member is and the accessability it gives. Maybe I need to move up the schedule on adding subframe connectors. One other thing, I did the JTR mod of drilling out the holes on the mustache bar bushings to raise the back of the diff by 3/16 inch. They helped me reduce the tilt on the engine increasing the ground clearance on the tranny. If you do that simple mod, then you may not need to mess with the front pinion angle to do your static alignment.
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Man, love this site. Thanks guys. I know right where that place is. Was stationed in Corranado almost 30 years ago now. Use to have a buddy who rented a place in Imperial Beach. Thanks for the tour offer, but I won't get in until Monday afternoon. This will be my first business trip/pick and pull excursion. Wonder if I can put the yard entrance fee on my expense report? I wonder if those 280 stubs are still laying on the ground.....
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The winner probably used an auction sniper program to outbid the high bid at the last moment. I don't know guys. Running Z car engines can be had for $500, complete with transmissions in most cases. It is the little things that eat you up on price. The thing was a 240 (not 280), had the good carbs and was awfully straight and clean. The seller seemed really up front and detailed. The winning bidder looked legit. Judging from his previous purchases the winning bidder must be restoring a 70 something Nova. Maybe he doesn't care about the 6 banger. Could there be a new member brewing? I look at it as a good sign for those of use who own 240's. Maybe these things are finally starting to be worth some money. You guys in the southwest don't realize how good you have it. Old Z cars have even disappeared from the salvage yards on the east coast. I have never seen a rust free 240 with dead engines in a local auto trader. Hell, I brought mine from CA.
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Any one know a good Z junk yard in the San Diego/La Jolla area? I am flying out there next week and want to pick up a front diff crossmember. Wouldn't mind getting a set of 280 stub axles but don't want to bring that many tools on the plane.
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That is amazing. I still wouldn't run that engine though.
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Thanks for doing this. Pretty good mind dump. But for the R200 into a 240 you also need the rear most crossmember that holds the back ends of the control arms in place. The R180 has a straight bar while the R200 is curved And since you said 240, you might mention the early 240's mounted the R180 35 mm forward. To do that swap you get the R200 pieces and the longer driveshaft. All that is needed then is to flip the front diff mount around . Good work.
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Datsun put 4 speeds in the early Z cars shipped to America but 5 speeds for the rest of the world. Every magazine I have ever read listed the 5 speed variants as having better acceleration numbers and top speeds. The 4 speed transmission were simply a bad marketing ploy for the American market. My guess is they wanted the "four on the floor" moniker for there cars.
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Maybe they mounted the second trans backwards to make an overdrive. Would make for a strange tranmission tunnel inside the car.
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A Fiero radiator and fan will work. Second the stock radiator. Get it recored to 3 rows and it will do the job. Only real draw back is weight. I was going to reuse the stock until until the L6 put the water pump through it.
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Yeah, that was just an initial fit. When I am done the pulley will be up about another quarter to half inch up and forward some. Think I will need the cross member lower plates since the carb isn't leaving much hood clearance. Never really know how much room you will have until you start piecing parts together. But it definitely shows how far back the engines can be set
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Man. Called out by his own woman. Tough to lay the smack down when the little woman gets involved.
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350 Stroked to 383 vs 400 Stroked to 421...
Pop N Wood replied to a topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
I don't know if I would call LS1/6's junk, but GM did make several changes to the LS1 oiling system over the years that seems to have addressed some issues. The 98-99's were different than the 2000's and on, and the LS2's are different yet. The LS2 blocks are suppose to be stronger too. As a point in reference, for the LS7 GM went to a dry sump. -
The crank pulley on my LS2 is sitting right above the steering rack on my 240. So figure a good half meter of wiggle room in that dimension. Clearance in front of the engine is one of the places where Z's have no issues. Shoot. Might even be enough room for a couple of turbos (hint hint).
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You don't need to tell them who you are going to work for. Seriously. Might be more entertaining that way. Just tell them you want some time off to explore your inner self. Tell them that you wish to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life. And to not, when it came time to die, discover that you had not lived. Or just get good a liquored up and tell them to pound sand.
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Damn. And I thought I planned things out too far ahead. I understand the learning part, but why do you think it will take 7 years? If you are in your 20's your life could change direction several times in that many years.
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Yeah, way behind. Since the LS7 is only offered on the vette, the T56 is in the rear transaxle. Now that ZHeadV8 mentions it I remember some post about the size of the LS7 flywheel. I know the LS7 clutch works on an LS2 flywheel because that is what I will be running.