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Pop N Wood

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Everything posted by Pop N Wood

  1. Not sure what you are asking. I thought a "chop saw" was a metal cutting saw. But I will tell you I use metal cutting blades in a standard $40 Sears hand held circle saw for the majority of my metal cutting. The saw doesn't like it a whole lot. That is why I use a cheap saw for this. Has held up fine for several years now. You can get the blades at Harbor Freight, Sears, Homers or even WalMart. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47576
  2. What Cody said. Dont' buy too much wire at one time. It feeds better if it is fresh. These MIG pliers are nice Absolutely make sure you get the gas option when you buy the welder. Having a roll of flux core wire is still handy in case you every have to weld outside on a day with even a slight breeze. For welding gloves I like the kind that come up to the elbows. Homers sells the Campbell Hausfield gloves like this that are extra insulated.
  3. I have no idea. There were several Lincolns with similar looking fans. They looked very hard to get to also.
  4. Got a fan out of a Continental. It just slightly wider and about 2 inches taller than the Taurus unit in the pic above. The side rails sit perfectly on the tank unions rather than on the core. Has the same 2 speed motor, but the fan blade diameter is an inch and a half bigger. Matches the JTR core perfectly. This thing would have been a biatch to get out, but I found one just sitting on the trunk of the car in front of the Continental. As an added bonus, got an aluminum strut bar out of a turbo escort that should work with the Z. Only $27 for both. Will post a pic next week when the wife gets back from vacation with the camera. Thanks Mike! Now if you can just move the exit on the passenger side LS1 header back 1 stinking inch so it will work with the stock Corvette style motor mounts. Would have saved me 3 days of welding and grinding in 95° heat.
  5. When I mounted my compressor in the rafters of my garage, I just hooked a rubber air line to the tank drain and put a blow gun on the other end. Every day or so I actuate the blow gun to drain the condensate, and inbetween the rubber line makes a pretty effective drain tank. All I needed was (I think) a 3/8 NPT barb and a couple of hose clamps.
  6. The one I got doesn't overlap the tanks by a little bit. It is a full 3-4 inches wider than the one you show. It is wider than the whole radiator. I am headed back to the pick and pull tomorrow. This time I keep looking until I find one that is the correct width. Ever notice how many more Fords there are in the salvage yards than GM? BTW, I did get a 2 speed model. Just too damn wide.
  7. Having read countless JohnC posts about replacing old fasteners or the proper way to prep a piece of metal for a weld, when I am in the garage working on the car I often catch myself asking "I wonder if JohnC would approve of the way I am doing this?" I mean, it is not hard to find people who can tell you how something should be done, but I think it is rare to find someone who can actually back that up like John can. So I decided to start a poll to see how many people have ever asked themselves "What would JohnC do?"
  8. Looks like a pretty good vehicle for sliding around corners http://www.lookatentertainment.com/v/v-1146.htm A better driver than I am.
  9. Just make sure your stock grounds are in good shape. Personally I like to minimize wires and other clutter, not add to it. BTW, beware of any kit that has to warn you to NOT connect the ground wire to the positve battery terminal. And WTH is "JDM" about that kit?
  10. Went to a pick and pull and got a 2 speed fan from a Taurus for $18.50. Was expecting a perfect fit like DaleMX got in this pic Instead the fan I got looks to have the exact same motor but the shroud is as wide as the outer tanks of the JTR radiator. Will take major surgery to make it fit. What did I do wrong? Pulled 2 different fans and they were both this wide. Is there a different year I should be looking at? BTW, DaleMX is one of my favorite HybridZ members. I have gotten more useful info from his posts and pics.
  11. Suppose most of you are already aware of this, but thought i would turn the rest of you onto these silver metalic sharpie pens. These are probably one of the best metal working tools made. Throw away the soap stone and buy a pack or two of these at Homers. The are visible as hell and don't burn off as the cutting wheel works through the steel. I am making some motor mounts, and even my blind old eyes are able to work the cutting wheel along the lines with no trouble. On the plus side the marks disolve in oil, so they clean up nicely.
  12. That was the vehicle they used to film the movie "Highway Gang Bang, In da Butt".
  13. Man I never would have predicted that. Still frames of the carnage
  14. This is just an old post. Either the pics have been moved out of his gallery or the links got redirected in one of the many software reconfigurations.
  15. Hot damn hot damn hot damn. Everyone stop now because that smiley face bruised ass has us all beat!!!
  16. Phantom has posted corner weights for his car. Although I would think only the front to back are relavent since suspension changes can bias the port-starboard readings. Phantom'c car was the development prototype for the JCI system.
  17. Sounds like a fun trip. Sure took the Northern route. One thing you need to understand about western Nebraska is 20 miles is "just down the road a bit". That is why 14 year old kids can get driver licenses to get themselves to school. And I hear what you say about Wyoming. Add Montana to that same list. My brother and I once drove the length of the state and ended up sleeping in a bean field because every motel we stopped at was already full.
  18. Man. Such good info so quickly. First off, nice car ThomaZ. Gives me something to shoot for. The pics you took will save my fat behind from trying to bend down under the dash. I am fabricating my own mounts, roughly following Mark's write up. Trouble is I am using a TKO trans, which has the shifter located 3 1/2 inches farther forward than a T56. I need to push this thing as far back as I can. I just lowered the engine into the bay for the first time this afternoon. No mounts yet. Just hanging the engine with bellhousing from a lift. From what I can see the lower hose in particular will hit directly into the back of the head. Maybe I can get it lower, but I don't believe I can get it that low. I already have 8 feet of braided heater hose and new grommets that I was planning to use. But I think the overall job will look better if I locate the penetrations somewhere near the battery and bring the hoses along the outer fender. Can triple up some type of mounting rail and hang the wiring harness on it too. Those bulkhead plates Bartman listed look cool. I have some old holes duct taped over where I think the PO had AC. So I will be patching the firewall anyway. This carbed LS2 is going to be slick. GM moved a lot of the junk away from the back of the engine when they went from the LS1 to the LS2. Losing the fuel injection got rid of a bunch of other obstructions. The LS2 PCV system is even reworked, so there will be almost no hoses on the engine. I am going to get this thing so far back that I might have to leave the engine lift plates on. To give you some idea, I need to remove the stock brake/clutch line mounts that go over the top of the tunnel cause one of the bellhousing bolts is hitting them. Clutch is on the drivers side now and was planning on routing the right front brake line along the new cross member anyway. So that only leaves the rear brake line to re engineer. Even getting it this far back I may need to trim the center console up to the ash tray. The good thing is the steering shaft clears everything by a mile. Looking like a lot of work right now.
  19. Anyone ever reloacte the heater hose penetrations in the firewall? This is on a 240 and looks like the heater hoses are going to hit right into the back of the head. From the engine bay it seems like it would be a simple matter to hole saw two new holes, patch the old ones and reroute the hoses. Just not sure how what kind of obstructions I will see under the dash.
  20. I think the big problem is they won't renew your registration, so no plates. Crate motors need to go through a referee station and get a door label that certifies the swap. Have to talk to the referee for more details. I would think once the car is certified with a different engine you could do anything you wanted. How is the cop on the street going to know what was on the car when it was certified and what wasn't? They can call up a computer list of required equipment if the car has the original engine, but there is a limited amout of crap they can write on the door label.
  21. Too funny. Especially about turning around the terminal. I guess I got lucky. They guys at the local Advanced Auto and Autozone are actually pretty good. Especially with an old car with so many mixed and matched parts. I have better luck at the local chain stores than I have at the Toyota dealers. Those bastards won't sell you anything without a VIN number first, and the Toyota computer has my VIN listed as the wrong year. Every time I go in there they insist on selling me the part that matches the VIN, and every single time I have to take it back and get something from the earlier year. Definitely bring in the part, or at least several very clear digital photos. Kind of tough when the bad part is something like the back O2 sensor on a V6 minivan.
  22. In the Grapes of Wrath Tom Joad checked for sawdust in the diff of his truck... What Grumpy said. Are you sure it is a bearing and not something on the outside of the engine?
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