Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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I have see fuel systems diagrammed in Hot Rod magazine several times' date=' and they always plumb in the fuel pressure regulator AFTER the carb, before the return line. I don't know exactly why, but it may be to maintain consistent pressure vs.volume.
I have read articles that advocate a returnless route for carb systems because every trip through the piping adds friction, heat, and agitation bubbles to the gasoline which allows it to evaporate at the tank.[/quote']
All of what you say contradicts everything I have read.
Here is a good link that grumpyvette once posted. Their suggestions on fuel line sizes are a step larger than any other recomendation I have seen. But other than that they do a good job of describing the differences.
http://centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp
I have read bad things on this site about Holley fuel pumps. I have read good things about the Walbro pump and the Mallory Comp 110.
I am going with this Mallory pump regulator set up with my carb'd 6L LS2 (est 450 HP)
Comp-140 High Performance Electric Fuel Pump with 650-4207 Regulator
More pump than I need but the package price of the Comp 140 pump and regulator is cheaper than buying the Comp 110 and regulator separately. I will use a 3/8 supply and return line. I would think your line sizes should be fine for the 5.0
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The truck engines are good choices, BUT keep in mind the accessories are wrong for a Z car. you will need to switch to an F car oil pan and intake for sure. Also the routing of the alternator, water pump and PS pump are different and will most likely need to be redone. Truck engines only come with automatics, so if you want a manual you will still have to source all that stuff too.
I can tell you first hand that F body accesories are non-existent in the JY's in my area. Getting all that stuff off ebay or from gm direct can get pricey.
Just so you know....
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MBA's are good for resumes. If you are hiring into a big corporation, the degree is worthwhile simply because none of the other MBA's will want to admit they could have better spent their time doing something else.
But if you are going to run your own buisness, then who do you have to suck up to? Real world experience and good trade connections will take you much farther than some yuppie badge of accomplishment.
Besides, as a fellow engineer who has had friends go to buisness school following engineering school, I can tell you first hand that you will not find an MBA program challanging. Your math background will quickly make you wonder what all the fuss is about. MBA students are much more concerned with interviews and scoring that next big job than attending class.
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Looks like my post crossed blueovalz.
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There was a recent thread where someone cut out their top bar.
Do a search.
The last 3/4 of the thread is him trying to correct the mistake.
I think Jon was being kind in how he phrased his answer. Z’s already flex a lot in that area. Ideally you want some type of X arrangement to keep the left and right halves from scissoring up and down. The farther out on the frame rails, the more leverage you will have. I consider both cross pieces structural. If they weren’t then Datsun wouldn't have double lapped the pieces as heavily as they did.
The only way I can see to get an X arrangement at the strut towers would be to solid mount the engine making it structural. Even that would be less than ideal. If you look at a picture of a Zed with the front quarters removed, you will see a box structure going along the top of the fenders. Sort of looks like a truss to me. The box structure is tapered and curves towards the front of the car where it attaches to the radiator cross member. That tells me the part was designed to accept loads at the end and not necessarily the middle.
One option is to replace the frame rails with heavier steel. This could undoubtedly be make strong enough to prevent the scissors motion, but it will weight more than a structure that uses geometry rather than shear mass for strength.
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Do you know what the $1.50 a gallon guy made the ethanol from?
It can be made very cheaply if you get a good source of otherwise waste farm products. Orchards with a lot of half rotting fruit is a good example. Even wood can be used to distill alcohol, but the process is very inefficient compared to sugary substances.
But one would need a very large and reliable source of waste product to justify investing in a large processing plant.
If you look at just how much oil we consume and want to produce enough ethanol to influence the price, then you are forced into some type of large scale production geared specifically towards the ethanol production. This means tractors and fertilizers and bureaucracy etc.
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Maybe the people viewing the thread are just like me and only opened it to see if someone listed a good source for body panels.
I just need the doglegs myself.
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When you get right down to it, all common energy sources are solar power. The only possible exception is nuclear energy.
Oil is just processed vegetation. Only real difference between it and ethanol is the distillation process.
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Corzette summed up what I was trying to say. May be able to bolt the same motor mounts to the big block, but that doesn't mean the engine will "bolt" into a Zed. I don't have a BBC Z, but I do read about them alot.
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Go to Holley's web site and look up their recomendations. Vacuum secondaries means the secondarys are opened by engine vacuum, meaning the second set of butterflys only open if the engine needs the air. Mechanical secondaries are opened with the throttle linkage.
Holley doesn't recommend a mechanical secondary unless the car weighs less than 3200 pounds and the rear gears are 3.7 or lower. Basically a car that is going to accelerate quickly. Our Z's fall in that catagory.
But supposedly mechanical secondaries are more work to tune and like said above can get worse gas mileage. So that is something else to keep in mind.
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I know the 454 will bolt straight in
I am pretty sure that is not true. The big block is, well, bigger than the small block.
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Phantom nailed it... If you can't hook up, you can't break anything.
Unless you don't have a rev limiter
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Ethanol has 3/5 the energy content of gasoline. You would have to make the engine significantly more efficient to make up that deficit.
Brazil is doing well with ethanol production, but the US is unlikely to match their success. It is harder to make ethanol from the starch in corn than it is from the sugars in sugar cane. We don't have the vast tracks of rain forest to slash and burn and convert to sugar cane, nor the cheap labor they do.
There is a continuing debate whether ethanol production from corn doesn't actually consume more fuel to grow and process the corn then one gets from the ethanol. If we were planting the crops by hand with little to no commercial fertilizer, then we might have a chance.
The other reason we will never match Brazil's success is the shear amount of energy we consume per person when compared to Brazil.
Every little bit helps is probably the answer to our energy problems. So why concentrate on production while ignoring the other side of the equation?
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What year/make of Honda? The GM unit can go back if need be. Wiring is simply not an issue. Only thing I want is a good belt route that turns both the alternator and stock water pump. I won't even need 50 amps with this set up.
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The problem with MTBE is it leaks out of the gas tanks and pollutes the ground water. I think they have banned it's use in most states.
The ethonal blend is a regional requirement for emissions. And there is a huge difference between 10% ethanol and 85% ethanol.
I had a Ford Fiesta that dropped 5 mpg every time I filled it with 10% ethanol. Did it as predictably as the tides. They called it gasohol back then.
Oil companies don't mind you buying ethanol blends. You are still buying it from them. So they get money from the government to put it in their gas and money from you when you fill your tank. Saves them from buying oil from someone else. What's not to like?
Get rid of the SUV.
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Could you expand on your tool a little. Sounds interesting.
I have read the threads on several laser tools but' date=' the dots/lines thing has me intriged. If you have covered this elsewhere, my bad. Toss up a link kind sir
I would like to recheck mine with a laser method.
[/quote']
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109413
Basic idea is to get the centerlines of the trans and diff parallel. Two lines are parallel if they stay the same distance apart as you go along the line.
Simply stuck one of these laser tools on the back of the flywheel (later trans output shaft) and one on the mount flange of the diff. Held up a sheet of notebook paper that I had numbered the lines on. Held the paper at front laser and measured the distance between the two beams (up-down and left-right). Did the same at the back. Tilted the engine till I measured same number of lines front and back. I have had harder times in the bathroom than I did aligning the driveline.
Don’t even have to center the tools on the shafts. Just get them flat and not at an angle.
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Slightly more work than hitting the shift key at the start of each sentence.
May be more than you want to get into.
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Did you ever stop to consider that driving a Prius would do more to "big oil" than anything you could put in an SUV?
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Yeah, the cross member needs some bracing. The drop pieces were made from 3/16 plate that I had lying around, but some gussets between the motor mount pedastals and the side plates are probably needed.
I got the idea to do what jbk240z is suggesting on the drive to work this morning. I will permanently mount an angle piece on the underside of the frame rails and bolt the sides of the engine xmember to that. That is after I wrap the frame rails with another layer of sheet metal probably 5 or 6 inches on either side of the crossmember. Not sure if I will tie the engine cross member into the stock member in any way.
Starting to have visions of speedbumps, so the back of the engine needs to come up. Which of course means building a new rear diff mount to change the pinion angle. Need to improve on the stock one anyway so no big deal.
The engine may look farther back then most guys because the corvette accesories places the belt 3/4 inch closer to the block.
I noticed on a stang site the shifter tabs Phantom was talking about. May just get a piece of stainless and forge my own shifter. Why do anything the easy way?
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After struggling for the last 2 months to build my own mounts I was just thinking how nice it would have been to have used the JCI stuff.
Other side of the fence I guess.
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Are you sure your stock pieces were never damaged? Was the car ever wrecked?
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The wife came into the garage to tell me something. This is the first time she has been in the garage since I started the swap. I had just finished setting the engine in place for a trial fit.
When she saw the engine in the car, she stopped mid sentence and said "That is SCARY! It looks like it will go too fast."
I think it is starting to look pretty good.
Got the cross member tack welded together. Needs more fitting and bracing, but good enough to help set the engine position. Hooked the tranny to the engine for the first time. Fit is looking good. Engine probably needs to come up a little bit, and just a bit farther forward.
Amazingly the TKO fits the tranny tunnel with the stock Datsun trans mount ears still in place. I can get my hand all the way around the trans. The TKO mounting holes are a few inches back from the stock ears, but I might still be able to make a cross piece that bolts to the stock location. Shifter is too far forward, but I think I can get an offset shift handle from a Mustang place that will work without modifying the tunnel opening. Worst case I lose my ashtray.
The laser alignment tools I made make aligning the driveline an absolute snap. Just hold up a sheet of notebook paper and count the number of lines between the dots. The light comes right through the paper. Just move the paper from the front to the back and when the dots are the same distance apart (up-down, left-right), then all is good. Gave me good clearance between the firewall and bellhousing when I realized how much engine tilt is needed to match the stock diff.
I am a little worried about ground clearance. I have the bottom of my cross member level with the bottom of the oil pan and about a half inch lower than the stock cross member. That part is good, but with all the engine tilt I think the trans/bellhousing is the low part. Car is still in the air with the front end higher than the back, but what do you guys think from this side view?
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I second warped brake rotors as a possible cause.
My Z doesn't shake, so don't believe what those other people are telling you.
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JB weld
Only half joking. Humvees are glued together, as are some high end aluminum bikes. Maybe you can find some industrial grade adhesive and a few bolts to hold everything together.
Z31 Body Kit
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
I know turbomeister is a well respected member here and I am sure he is 100% on the level. But damn it is funny this thread comes up now while there are two very similar threads in the tool shed.
Some funky mojo here.