Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Maybe they mounted the second trans backwards to make an overdrive.
Would make for a strange tranmission tunnel inside the car.
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A Fiero radiator and fan will work.
Second the stock radiator. Get it recored to 3 rows and it will do the job. Only real draw back is weight. I was going to reuse the stock until until the L6 put the water pump through it.
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Yeah, that was just an initial fit. When I am done the pulley will be up about another quarter to half inch up and forward some. Think I will need the cross member lower plates since the carb isn't leaving much hood clearance. Never really know how much room you will have until you start piecing parts together.
But it definitely shows how far back the engines can be set
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Man. Called out by his own woman.
Tough to lay the smack down when the little woman gets involved.
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I don't know if I would call LS1/6's junk, but GM did make several changes to the LS1 oiling system over the years that seems to have addressed some issues. The 98-99's were different than the 2000's and on, and the LS2's are different yet. The LS2 blocks are suppose to be stronger too.
As a point in reference, for the LS7 GM went to a dry sump.
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The only caveat here (can someone help please ?) is he says that the front part of the LS7 sticks out slightly further that an LS2 because of pump differences and to check if it will foul anything. Anyone got any ideas ? How much clearance is there in front of an LS2 ?? won't be much bigger I guess.
The crank pulley on my LS2 is sitting right above the steering rack on my 240. So figure a good half meter of wiggle room in that dimension.
Clearance in front of the engine is one of the places where Z's have no issues.
Shoot. Might even be enough room for a couple of turbos (hint hint).
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You don't need to tell them who you are going to work for.
Seriously.
Might be more entertaining that way.
Just tell them you want some time off to explore your inner self. Tell them that you wish to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life. And to not, when it came time to die, discover that you had not lived.
Or just get good a liquored up and tell them to pound sand.
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Damn. And I thought I planned things out too far ahead.
I understand the learning part, but why do you think it will take 7 years? If you are in your 20's your life could change direction several times in that many years.
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what.. i am pretty sure that its the T56 behind all LS7s... unless GM made another 6 speed for it
Yeah, way behind. Since the LS7 is only offered on the vette, the T56 is in the rear transaxle.
Now that ZHeadV8 mentions it I remember some post about the size of the LS7 flywheel.
I know the LS7 clutch works on an LS2 flywheel because that is what I will be running.
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I literally have had women throw themselves onto the hood of my Z.
Good looking blondes too.
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Well since no one seems to be ponying up with the exact answers you are looking for I will tell you what I know.
First off, the "flat bar" MikeJTR is talking about is just that, a flat bar bolted to the underside of the floor pans. I guess JTR doesn't sell a T56 specific bar because they probably rightly figured that no one was going to send them money for something they could get from Homers or their local steel yard.
As for the transmission mount, I have two copies of the JTR manual and neither one has a page 5-11. But I do know you can go on Summitracing.com and search for transmission mounts. Go though their search options until you find one for a manual V8 chevy. They will cross reference it to a 2000 whatever Camaro with V8. You can get a nice energy suspension urethane one for ~$27. Or hit the local Autozone and buy a stock one from a 2000 Camaro with a manual and V8.
Finally to drive line angles. IMO unless someone with the exact same set up comes on line to tell you exactly what they did, you will need to wait until you actually get the engine in the car to measure them. If I were you I wouldn't let making the Ron Tyler diff mount hold up your swap. The RT mount will let you lower the front of the diff maybe a half inch before it hits the stock cross member anyway. Just get the engine in there and make the mount later. My guess is you will have enough flexibility in mounting the back of the tranny to do the alignment.
1° is a nice goal, but when you figure how much the back of that diff is going to lift under full throttle I am not sure how much you should worry about it.
And even if the alignment isn't perfect, the vibration is more of nusiance than a problem. It is not like you are going to damage anything if it takes you 6 months following the swap to put one in. The stock mount might break, but it is not like anyone has ever driven around with one of those broken before.
One other suggestion, go to the FAQ section and look at the thread about using laser pointers to align the diff. Makes the whole process a visual one and very simple.
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I got 20$ for mine from the Scrap Yard
Phew. And I thought I was going to have to take a loss on it.
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Check out this absolutely bitchin radiator relocation
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114152
Notice the X braces and what looks like a sheet metal support following the contour of the front fenders.
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Mas280 has one in his RX7. He has done LS1 and LS2 swaps into Z cars, so you might try asking him.
FWIW, externally the LS7 is the same size and shape as the LS2. There are some subtle difference between all the LSx variants, especially in terms of accessory placement. But I don't see why you couldn't use the standard LSx mounting kits on an LS7.
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You guys aren't making me feel very good about the prospects of selling the one sitting in my driveway.
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I am not sure how anyone can answer this without knowing when you plan to sell. Any time soon?
If you are looking at an immediate resell, put carpet back down. Few things boost the resale of a place like fresh paint and carpet. Hardwood or laminate you risk getting less out of it than the cost of putting it in. Basically you just want to put in something that shows well.
Also how old and/or upscale is your place? You don't want to put in something that looks out of place. If it is brand new in a yuppie part of town then lead toward the hardwood. If your place is a little older or needs touching up, then new hardwood might make everything else look shoddy in comparison. Is your townhome complex full of young single people or families with young kids? With children it is hard to beat the durability of laminate. What do you think someone in your area would want to see?
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http://www.borgeson.com/products.htm
I also noticed MikeKZ put in an extra u joint. Might try contacting him. A couple of other guys said speed shops and/or tractor supply companies carry steering shaft U joints.
summit carries steering joints and support bearings
Shouldn't be hard to figure out how to do it once you have the hardware. Just make sure you solid mount the support bearing. Look at the tech info on the borgenson site.
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Damn. Nice unit. Let us know how it welds.
Might want to rethink that statement about powering the whole house. 9000 watts is not an overly large generator as far as house loads go. Also unless it has an electronic voltage regulator it could be unsafe to power electronic stuff with. Unless it is specifically rated for computers and such don't use it that way without some type of UPS filter.
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I agree with 240hoke. If you are comfortable with the price then go for it. Ebay the hubs and extra bumpers. You mihgt get him down some more if it has been listed for a while.
All I was suggesting is you might be able to find a better deal price wise looking for a 280.
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That car looks fairly priced for what it is, but you are paying a premium for a bunch of stuff you won't need or can't use.
Bumpers are expensive on the 240 cars, as is an uncracked dash. For some reason known only to God himself those ugly ass hubcaps can sell for a lot if they are in good shape. I have personally thrown a set in a dumpster so I guess I have added to their rarity.
Being a 240 and especially a 70 adds even more.
If you want a V8, then look more towards the cheaper and more plentify 280's or 260's. The 260's are the red headed step child of the Z world, but if you go V8 it won't matter. The 280's are heavier, but they are arguably stonger and usually come with the stronger R200 rear end and stub axles.
Happy Hunting.
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Not a bad idea actually. I had a gas grill with cast iron burners and they said to do just that to the burners every other year,
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Try this link
http://centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp
Pretty good info, but I think their recomendations on fuel line sizing runs a full size larger than any other place I looked at. I plan on running a Mallory Comp 140 pump. According to the link above, I would need 1/2 supply and return, yet Mallory recommends 3/8 inch line with the pump I mentioned.
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all you need is a alternator bracket and a tensioner from a f-body. Our cars dont have power steering and I doubt your gonna run A/C. Oil pan will be a must Im pretty sure though. Here is a pic of mine so you get an idea Mike.............
the air cleaner wont be on there for long' date=' just keeping crap outta my motor. Anyway both orange pieces on the front is all you need.
[img']http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a267/Lason/240Z%20Conversion/126-2640_IMG.jpg[/img]
I know the F body belt is 3/4 of an inch farther from the block than the vette stuff because I had to solve that problem when I tried to put an F body alternator bracket on my LS2. But in researching alternator placement I read that the truck belt runs even farther out than the F body belt. Is that a truck WP and crank pulley on that engine? Just want to know.
Also the carb is one way around the tall truck FI intake. I thought someone once posted the truck intake will not clear a Z hood.
BTW, Lason, what carb and jets are you running? I would love to ball park my carb set up before I try to start my engine.
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What I wrote came off badly. Like I tried to say, not casting any doubt toward turbomeister and I apologize a thousand times if it came off that way.
I simply didn't realize the two sets of threads were related. You have to admit it would have been pretty weird if you had done this now out of the blue.
Transmission's
in Drivetrain
Posted
Datsun put 4 speeds in the early Z cars shipped to America but 5 speeds for the rest of the world. Every magazine I have ever read listed the 5 speed variants as having better acceleration numbers and top speeds.
The 4 speed transmission were simply a bad marketing ploy for the American market. My guess is they wanted the "four on the floor" moniker for there cars.