Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Sorry to hyjack your thread. This is a pretty good birth announcement for your car.
I won't argue that EFI isn't the better solution in most respects. Carbs are metered fuel leak as some call them. But there are a LOT of reasons why a carb is a better solution in some cases.
Try pricing new crate motors and see just how much the FI is going to cost you. Then look into how much added cost and complexity is involved fitting a FI motor into a carb era Z.
I deal with computers all day at work. Don't like the idea of coming home and doing the same.
I also wonder about parts availability 20+ years down the road.
For a daily driver, FI is the only way to go. Cold starts, mileage, passing emmisions. But my Z will never see a winter day. I will drive so few miles that mileage is only a passing concern. Emissions don't apply, and with so few miles I won't be contributing much environmental damage.
But the #1 reason for going carb is I have wanted a high performance motor since I was 17. Took me 30 years but now I am building it. Just want that super simple, old school look.
BTW, I notice in the GM performance parts catalog that GM makes an optional distributor drive for the LS motor. Said it is for the racing bodies that require a distributor. If some classes require a distributor, they almost certainly require a carb.
Also VinhZXT, you are right about the alternator hitting the steering shaft. Got some work ahead of me today.
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That elk will probably die in the next two weeks. I'll post
pic's' date=' got a hunter coming in about a week.[/quote']
LOL. Interesting way to look at things.
That is one hell of a rack.
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A used computer is $100. Seems like a good price, must be for a used unit. Replacement O2 sensors about the same, each. IAC motor, what, $60? HPtuner is $500, per car. That is if you already have the laptop or an old computer handy. TPS, MAP sensor, replacement harness, FI tank, new guages, 140 amp alternator. Stuff adds up.
There are a lot of advantages going with a carb on an old Z. Not the least of which GM somehow rates their carb'd LS2 as have 40 more HP than the same motor with FI.
Something about the look of a clean engine bay and huge air cleaner that I like.
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I have a '71 240z that I'm planning' date=' to use for the track. I need help with what setup would be best, without going fully custom. I've read posts with all different kinds of setups, but I'm not sure where to start first, and
just want to get started in the right direction, not just start ordering parts. I'm in the southern california area, so if you guys know of any shops w/experience in track cars, or just some helpful advice, any info would be appreciated. thanks you.[/quote']
JohnC is in La Habre (if I spelled that right)
He built arguably the best handling Z car on the site. He also sells suspension stuff from his company beta motor sports.
Go to JohnC's user profile and check out his web site.
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Check and make absolutely certain #5 & 7 plug wires aren't crossed' date=' or that any spark is jumping between these two wires. A dark garage is best for checking for sparks jumping wire to wire.
John[/quote']
I was thinking cross firing betweent the cylinders also.
Check the inside of the dist cap for carbon tracing. A solid indication of cross firing.
Dark garage is an excellent idea. I found a crack in a coil cap that I never would have found if the sun hadn't set on me. Make sure wires are in good shape and not crossing at odd angles.
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My guess is that one will end up on snopes.com before too long.
Why post a video of yourself jacking a camera at gunpoint?
A cell phone would have done a much better job of defusing that situation.
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I don't know, I remember reading how Grumpy took care of a bug problem once...
LOL
If you switch to ether instead of propane it might take care of the bug problem at the same time.
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I would send it back.
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i've been looking locally and can't come up with a decent 280zx for the engine, ...
That would be my concern. Those 280 turbo motors are not getting any easier to find.
Do what someone said earlier and go with whatever you can find cheaper.
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It will tell you if there is a leak when the engine idle speed changes.
It is just questionable how safe it might be.
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I may take you up on the offer, but for now I think I have enough info.
Somehow I felt got the impression using the F body alternator mount machined to fit the corvette pulley spacing was going to clear. Maybe I need to take a closer look. Trouble is the guy at the machine shop has had my bracket for almost 3 weeks now and still hasn't gotten around to it.
My problem is I am trying to use a TKO trans which is 3 1/2 inches shorter than the T56. I need to get the engine as far back as possible to minimize the surgery on the stock shifter hole.
BTW, I downloaded a couple of slick alternator mounting solutions off LS1tech. Will use one as a fall back should I run into steering shaft problems
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Propane is a time tested method of checking for vacuum leaks. If there is a leak, the extra fuel in the intake will affect the engine idle.
I used a can of starter fuild to find the vacuum leaks in my SU throttle shafts.
Not so sure about filling the crank case with propane though. Using an unlit torch on the engine externals is pretty safe. But how will you ensure it doesn't build up to an unsafe concentration in the crankcase?
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You are definitely where I want to be.
One quick question, on your website you wrote the following and I was wondering if the numbers are still correct.
I have finally made up my mind how low to set the motor. I then completed the new crossmember and bolt the motor in place. I have 1/2 inch between the rack and the pulley and the pulley sits right over the top of the rack. The new crossmember is exactly 6 inches down from the top of the frame rails. I had the new motor sits dead center with the original motor, that is the crankshaft is at the same spot as the L6 crankshaft(on the horizontal plane). It is 3/4 of an inch offset to the passenger side relative to the center line of the 2 frame rails. However the new crankshaft is lower than the original crank shaft. The measurement of the old crankshaft is 3/4" above the frame rails. The LS1's crankshaft measurement is 1/2" below the frame rails. This means I will have to lower the tail of the transmission 1 1/4" to get the driveline parallel to the original driveline.My LS2 crate has the Corvette accesories mounting. I am hoping I can get the pulley completely down and behind the steering rack. But getting my cross member height and left right spacing set will help immensely with this fore-aft placement.
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Ordered mine from here
Click on the brass fittings index
shipping is fast but expensive.
A US option:
http://www.fedhillusa.com/brakelinenutsfittings.html
The Z fittings are M10x1. They should work with 3/16 hard lines.
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The mounting on the trans crossmember could easily twist the engine enough to cause the discrepancy.
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http://www.tangshop.com/sanyo-pm-8200-travel-charger-sanyo-4900.html
Radio Shack carries universial phone chargers
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Maryland is going through the same thing. They actually bulldozed trees along several major road ways rather than trim them. Agent Orange could not have done a more draconian job.
But I have to say, a few years ago we suffered from regular power outages that lasted days at a time. Since they started their tree genocide campaign we have not had a single power outage (knock on wood).
Name your poison I guess.
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Im just worried about the main power lug on the back of it being so close to the mount. Ill just tape it all up after I install a wire on there.
I remember reading an old post where someone with an LS2 motor rotated the alternator in the mount to make the lug clear.
Thanks phantom. Good info.
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I don't care about the rattling. It doesn't bother me. Just quit driving by my house at night!!!
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I am very interested in this info myself. I hope to set my motor in the next few days and have just begun to address the port and starboard placement.
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Anyway my P79 stat housing doesn't have any extra holes in it and neither does the rest of the engine.
Nothing a drill and a NPT tap won't cure.
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If all you want is a parking brake, then don't bother putting a line lock on it at all.
Opinions vary, but they don't work for that purpose.
Do a search and see if you can count the number of members who tried using a line lock as a parking brake only to find their car somewhere other than where they parked it.
Leave it in gear when you partk it. If you want more than go to autozone and buy a set of plastic wheel chocks.
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Keep us posted on how things work out.
I am always looking for a bargain.
Best radiator?
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
The JTR radiator looks like a good solution. There are a LOT of people running those sucessfullly.
Like Lason I have yet to run my motor, but I really like the look of the JTR unit.